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      01-08-2019, 03:41 PM   #1
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mFlasher 8HP and B58 Official Thread

Since the original thread got a bit overwhelming for most customers to read through hand find answers, we are starting a new thread dedicated to the information on usage of our tool, stage differences and such.

First and foremost, the link to our app:
https://mflasher.com/files/mFlasher_MDG1.exe

Installation instructions:
Very simple. If you already have older version of mFlasher installed, please remove it first. Then Download the app, and run the downloaded file. Go though the installation prompts and you are ready to go.

Hardware Requirements:
Almost any windows 7 and up hardware will work. You will need a Wi-Fi connection active at all times as well as Ethernet port to plug the eNet cable into. A lot of newer laptops do not have Ethernet ports, so you can get a USB to Ethernet adapter on Amazon.

Prerequisites
When flashing your vehicle, make sure that your vehicle battery is in good shape and charged. If it is questionable, put a charger on your car.
Make sure your laptop has good enough battery to last minimum of 1 hour. The flash only takes 10 min at most, but you just don't want to end up in situation where your laptop turns off during the flash.
Make sure your laptop is not doing an update. Updates sometimes disable drivers/hardware and the last thing you want is for your network card to get disabled in a middle of flash.
**If you have any legacy devices plugged in to your OBD2 port that use CAN bus, make sure to unplug them first, turn the car off and lock the vehicle for at least 10 minutes so that gateway reboots. Otherwise your vehicle will still be stuck in CAN mode and disable the eNET access.




Differences in Engine Tune Versions
Stage 1 This flash is designed for stock hardware and is the safest available version. The boost and torque is strictly limited, timing is kept at a very moderate level with adjustment factor 1.10.
This tune is designed to work on high altitudes and use 91oct as minimum. It will adjust for better conditions, but the adjustments are limited to 10%. You can use 2-3 gallons of E85 but gains of E85 will only be really noticed on moderate to hot days. This software is designed to work with stock Trans Flash.

Stage 2 This flash is made for moderately modified vehicles such as FBO. The catless downpipe is not required, but highly recommended. You can run this tune even on fully stock vehicle, just make sure you have access to decent gas, something better then 91. If 91 is the only option you have, then you should use few gallons of E85 or octane booster. This software has adjustment factor 1.2 and will adjust up to 20% under ideal conditions (93+ octane, low IAT, Sea-Level). It has been tested to up to 5 gallons of E85, though your results will very based on condition of your HPFP. This software is designed to work with stock trans flash, but a trans tune is recommended to get optimized results.

Stage 3 This version takes Stage 2 flash and increases overall torque curve and raises final Hp to even higher levels. For Stage 3 flash, we highly recommend a FBO vehicle, through it has still been tested (with great results) on stock hardware vehicles using good 93 octane fuel. With adjustment factor of 1.25, we gave this version a 25% headroom for adaptation so it will adjust for anything form 93 to 100octane fuel and meth. This flash requires Stage 1 or Stage 2 trans tune.



Differences in Trans Tune Versions
Stage 1
Stage 1 Trans flash is based on stock trans file, with slightly decreased shifting times, "granny" limiters lifted, adjusted rail pressure and lowered torque reductions during shifts. This version can be used with stock or modified engine tune and it will adjust and learn accordingly. This is the safest possible tune for trans.

Stage 2
On top of the modifications present in Stage 1, Stage 2 tune removed torque limitations on the trans input, reduces the shifting torque even further, and is ideal flash to be used with our Stage 2 or 3 engine flash. This version does put extra strain on the trans, so make sure your trans fluid is changed regulatory (30k to 40K miles) and your cooling system is performing correctly.
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      01-08-2019, 03:42 PM   #2
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      01-08-2019, 03:42 PM   #3
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DME Flashing Instructions

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it’s not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn’t block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to DME, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

6. Click on Continue and then select Flash Option, depending on what is Available/Desired.

7. If your computer is still on factory flash, it will ask you to perform Unlock. Click Yes.

8. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 10 minutes or so. During this time, you can’t turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don’t close it. If its closed, don’t open it).

9. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

10. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

11. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.




Transmission Flashing Instructions

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it’s not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn’t block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to EGS, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

6. Click on Continue and then select Flash Option, depending on what is Available/Desired.

7. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 5 minutes or so. During this time, you can’t turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don’t close it. If its closed, don’t open it).

8. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

9. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

10. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.




DME Flash To Full Stock or Recovery

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it’s not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn’t block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to DME, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

7. Go to settings (gear icon on the lower right), and select Emergency Recovery.

7. Click on Continue and then select Original. If you get a message asking if you want to keep your computer unlocked, select No.

8. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 5 minutes or so. During this time, you can’t turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don’t close it. If its closed, don’t open it).

9. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

10. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

11. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.

Last edited by MissionPerformance; 01-08-2019 at 04:03 PM.
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      01-08-2019, 03:43 PM   #4
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      01-08-2019, 04:36 PM   #5
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Do you have any dyno data for the stage 3 flash?
Also, will the transmission stage 1 software work with a JB4 only 340i?
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      01-08-2019, 05:08 PM   #6
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When I purchased and flashed the tune the version of the app at the time (November 23rd 2018) was titled "...mFlasher_MG1.exe"

Does this mean I have the old version of the tune or the old version of the app or both?
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      01-08-2019, 05:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B58 View Post
Do you have any dyno data for the stage 3 flash?
Also, will the transmission stage 1 software work with a JB4 only 340i?
Not yet, still looking for a AWD dynojet near us. As soon as we get in touch with someone, will have the dyno posted. But the logs will be posted soon, and logs are much more descriptive/honest compared to dyno numbers since EVERY single dyno reads different.

Trans flash will work with any engine tune/piggyback configuration, though it wont be significant help on JB4 cars since nearly every parameter trans sees coming coming from engine is filtered/substituted by your box.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayf30 View Post
When I purchased and flashed the tune the version of the app at the time (November 23rd 2018) was titled "...mFlasher_MG1.exe"

Does this mean I have the old version of the tune or the old version of the app or both?
Yes to both.
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      01-08-2019, 08:08 PM   #8
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I am going to see if I can get a Dyno tomorrow afternoon

EDIT:

Just drove into to work, roughly 15 minute commute, so no crazy driving, but still Sport+ with shifter to the left (didnt run paddles, just let the trans do its thing), difference definitely felt with the Trans Flash, ... Buttery is how I would describe it, ..... nice power add too, ...... def worth the money, .... the whole package feels great, Stage 1, Stage 2, Trans Flash, ... do IT, .... do IT NOW!
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      01-09-2019, 04:34 PM   #9
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MP can you elaborate a bit more on the technical differences of the STG1 vs STG2 transmission flash and what's most recommended for say a STG2 engine flash?

If the plan is to run say just a downpipe, intake, and STG2 tune on 92 octane would the STG1 trans flash be sufficient without having to worry about torque intervention but also not put significantly more stress on the 8AT?

Lastly, has shift speeds been reduce for say manual downshifts? Example: you are in Sport+ Manual mode and downshifting coming into a corner 6-5-4-3 or something similar there is always a delay here. I'm hoping to get a bit more crispness in those shifts similar to say the 7sp DCT.
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      01-09-2019, 06:49 PM   #10
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The biggest difference between STG1 and STG2 gearbox flash is the amount of torque reduction that happens in between shifts. STG1 still uses moderate amount of torque reduction to cut torque during shifts, but STG2 barely has any. The less torque reduction during shifting leads to a bit more stress on internal components, mainly the input shaft/bearing.

Yes for a setup like the one you mentioned, a STG1 trans flash is the best option.

That has not been added or addressed yet since its not about shifting speed but actual torque increase to get engine up to the correct RPM. That is the delay you are feeling.
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      01-09-2019, 06:59 PM   #11
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Which flash combo should I run with catless downpipe, exhaust and intake? 93 fuel, I have easy access to e85 as well. Probable WHP figures on a setup like
Mine?
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      01-14-2019, 09:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingKawi View Post
Which flash combo should I run with catless downpipe, exhaust and intake? 93 fuel, I have easy access to e85 as well. Probable WHP figures on a setup like
Mine?
For that vehicle I would suggest stage 1 trans flash with our stage 2/3 engine flash.
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      01-14-2019, 11:58 PM   #13
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Are there any scenarios in which you would recommend the stage 2 trans flash?
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      01-22-2019, 04:11 PM   #14
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Think we may just need to get this back on page one....
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      01-29-2019, 06:20 AM   #15
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Hi all,

I will soon do engine tune with my local Tuner but I want to also do Mission Performance Transmission tune, probably Stage 1, to play safe.

Now, said Tuner just said to me that Trans tune needs to be done AFTER engine tune. I thought the opposite, that Trans tune needed to be done BEFORE engine tune, but his logic is that Transmission needs to adapt to new engine power and torque.

Can you please tell me what is correct order ?

Thanks is advance.
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