12-22-2022, 06:02 PM | #1 |
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m sport seat coding
Ok so I swapped m seats in from a 17 f32, I have a. 14 f32. Swapped modules and seat belt buckles but nothing else. No airbag warnings but the lumbar and back adjustments don’t work.
I assume this means coding? Can anyone help me with what to change?
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12-23-2022, 08:32 AM | #3 |
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that sounds like fun. any idea how far of a wire i need lol
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12-24-2022, 08:07 AM | #5 | |
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We’ll see when I can get around to it next @mig2830 what was the part number for your wires? David provided me with this part number, 61130005197 but they don't seem to be long enough. And as far as David's diagram goes, this wire has to go all the way to the fuse box under the hood?
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12-24-2022, 04:36 PM | #6 |
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djacinto
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12-25-2022, 03:26 AM | #7 |
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Yes, that is correct, the fuse box in engine compartment.
The wires were taken from a main wire harness, I purchased on ebay. To make sure that it has this option, I purchased the harness from a F32 as they come with electrically operated seats as standard. The part number you have is for a repair wire with the small connector that goes in the seat. To make a wire set yourself you would need 2 of those and for the fuse box, one 61136937069 and one 61138377730. |
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12-25-2022, 09:42 PM | #8 | |
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12-26-2022, 05:42 AM | #9 |
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You can go two ways, the one I did:
Find a complete main wiring harnes at Ebay (from a F32 as it has electrically opereted seats as standard or a F30 with the option of electrically operated seats) and remove the wires from there. The other option is tp manufacture the two wires your self. Buy the connector pins from BMW two of part number 61130005197 for the connection in the yellow connector under the seat, and one part number 61136937069 and one part number 61138377730 for the Z7*2b connector in the fuse box. |
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01-04-2023, 11:44 AM | #10 |
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OK so i just got my wiring, but the in between wire is too thick.
The seat connector pins are about a foot long but very thin, and the fuse box connector is the same length but a little thicker however, I am unsure what to buy thickness and gauge to connect all the wires
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01-07-2023, 07:29 PM | #11 |
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Finished the wiring today!
For those who do this in the future, here is my written up how to! Once you've identified your current seat's options, you will need to figure out what extra wiring is needed for any retrofits. david51 has a good thread on his retrofit, and I will specifically talking about adding lumbar support as that is all I needed to add. Before any steps are taken, be sure to undo the 4 t50 bolts that hold down each seat. Send the seat to both it's furthest front and back to gain access. Once this is done, you can then remove the negative battery terminal *REMOVING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL IS KEY. IF YOU SKIP THIS STEP, YOU MAY END UP GETTING AN AIRBAG RESTRAINT ERROR* When you get your new seats, first identify under the bottom section the grey control module and the seat belt buckle harness. The ecu comes out very easily with some plastic pry tools. on the harness, you will need a t50 to unscrew the bolt and a small set of nippers to cut the two zipties holding the wires into the harness. After these are cut, take a picture of the plug to ensure you have the right order to put all the plugs back in. After that, slide them out and set the old ecu and belt buckle aside as you will no longer need them. Do the same thing on your old seats, and do the reversal of your removal. Place the ECU from your seats into the new ones, and the buckle in it's spot. The t50 is torqued down to 35 nm. After this comes wiring. In my case, I had the wire for electric adjustment and heating already. For lumbar, it will be pin 1. To see this, grab your wire harness form your car that plugs into the seat, and unseat the black connectors that go inside the yellow housing. On the black plastic there are numbers regarding to each pin location. That is where you will need this type of wire. Once plugged in, be sure to use some sort of wire harness tape to keep it close to the main harness At the end of the wire you will want to strip off the insulation and use a butt splice terminal like these. The pin wiring is .75mm2 thick and 18 gauge. I used this wiring to go from my driver side to my passenger side and to the fusebox location. After crimping together the driver side, I routed the wiring under the carpet, under the center console, around and to the passenger side where I repeated the steps to adding the pin connector into pin 1. I then used one of these connector boxes to send power through both wires so that I did not have to cut and splice more. Once both sides are connected, continue your wiring from the passenger side that came from the driver side into the footwell. I used the plastic cladding to hide the wire. I then taped the wire to a zip tie, and underneath the dash, you can see the main wiring harness. Send your ziptie through the hole and work your way to the hood. On lefthand drive cars, the fuse box is on the passenger side underneath some plastic trim. I used this video to identify which fuse area I needed to be in, and found fuse 27. Pull out the fuse box with a couple of flathead screw drivers, and locate the area of fuses you need to remove. Using another flathead, pry at the red latch mechanism until it slides out, and pull your fuse bundle. Here it can get a touch confusing. In my case, where fuse 27 is, there is a stair step like plastic piece that houses all the wires. The lower step has a 1 and a 6 from left to right, and an A indicating it is row A. for lumbar, we are looking for 3B. on David51's guide, he has it listed as 2b, but that is in fact fuse 28, which is 5 amps instead of 10. While this isn't a major deal, it is better to be safe than sorry. In order to connect in this area, you will need a double leaf spring connector like this. Keep in mind, this wire is a bit thicker than both the wires I have listed thus far. I would guess it's about 14 gauge, so you will need to use a thicker butt splice. once you've crimped your wiring coming from the cabin to the double leaf spring, slide it in to it's correct slot, and push the plastic housing back into the fuse box. Reverse steps to put the box back and cover and trim piece and you are done. In order to test before putting everything back together, be sure to plug both seats in before reconnecting the battery. Once both seats are plugged in, you are safe to reconnect the battery. Test your new lumbar adjustments and if they work, you are properly getting power. If nothing happens, you may need to check your crimps and wiring. Once you have confirmed the seats work, disconnect the battery and begin to tape up your new wires to the harness to keep them secure, if you didn't do so during the process. Bolt down the seats and then you are done! I will upload photos where I can but I can also answer questions if anyone needs help. Should have done these seats years ago!
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01-08-2023, 06:09 AM | #12 |
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for the lumbar it is the fuse F27 (Z7*2B) |
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01-25-2023, 09:22 AM | #13 |
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That is correct, but fuse 27 is 3b not 2b. I visually confirmed when looking into the housing that connects into the fuse box. If i had a picture I'd show it, but when looking inside, you can see the colors of the fuses. 2b is fuse 28 and is a 5 amp.
It should be enough to provide power and not be an issue, but if the service manual indeed says its supposed to be a 10 amp fuse, 27 is sufficient
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04-11-2023, 07:47 PM | #14 | |
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04-11-2023, 07:57 PM | #15 |
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So that is just what i used. it's a very very thin wire. 18 gauge is very close in diameter. once you go from the seat harness to the fuse box, i increased the gauge
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04-11-2023, 08:17 PM | #16 |
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Thanks! I should be good with any decent 18 gauge wire then right? I just need to run pin 7 to a 12V source for the M lights on the M seats
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06-24-2023, 11:17 AM | #19 |
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need also some help
Hello everyone, I've been a member since today and will introduce myself later.
I also have the connection problem. My car is a 2015 4 series, so I assume the schematic and connections are the same? My car has original manual flat leather seats, nothing is electric. Now I have bought a few sports seats, electric with memory and heating, does seats also coming out of a 4 series. Does anyone have an idea how to wire this up electrically? Is there a schematic or complete wiring harness that I can find/buy? I also don't mind making the cables myself, as long as I know where to plug them in to make things work. Thanks in advance for thinking along, Regards Loctite |
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