[Socaln54]

Originally Posted by RedErik

1. You can use the OEM GPS antenna. You could either unplug it for the OEM radio and plug to the Android screen or use a proper splitter box (not a cable) and use GPS signal for both.

2. First page of this posts has a link to the rooting guide.

3. It uses AUX. Best way to have a good audio quality is to use an external DAC like FIIO E10K or if you get a powered USB hub even something like FIIO 3K.
Not sure what this is but I will research

4. It's worst.

5. There is a bunch of problems but most of them we can fix... to a point.

6. Every unit has 2 USB ports and SD cards slot.

1.Got it so plug and play and if you want double GPS you can right?
2. Awesome
3. Not sure what this is but I will research
4.Even IPS?
5.What are the main ones?
6.Can you connect anything like a Camera, USB storage, etc? Basically works like a an android phone?

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Socaln54

1.Got it so plug and play and if you want double GPS you can right?
2. Awesome
3. Not sure what this is but I will research
4.Even IPS?
5.What are the main ones?
6.Can you connect anything like a Camera, USB storage, etc? Basically works like a an android phone?

1. Yeah, plug an play on most units. If you want to split your GPS signal between OEM and Android, best way to do is to use a diplexer.
3. DAC digital-to-analog converter. These units have a built-in DAC which is a poor quality. You want to have a good quality audio, you want an external DAC.
4. Even IPS. It's not only pixel technology, it's quality, antiglare coating etc. Every Android unit will be worst quality than OEM screen... buy how much is a question of what you're getting.
5. Screen, audio (this we can fix with DAC), software (we can partially fix that). I mean it depends where you're coming from and what you are planning to use this screen for.
6. Just a typical USB ports. Anything than Android can recognise, can be plugged in and used.

[Socaln54]

Originally Posted by RedErik

1. Yeah, plug an play on most units. If you want to split your GPS signal between OEM and Android, best way to do is to use a diplexer.
3. DAC digital-to-analog converter. These units have a built-in DAC which is a poor quality. You want to have a good quality audio, you want an external DAC.
4. Even IPS. It's not only pixel technology, it's quality, antiglare coating etc. Every Android unit will be worst quality than OEM screen... buy how much is a question of what you're getting.
5. Screen, audio (this we can fix with DAC), software (we can partially fix that). I mean it depends where you're coming from and what you are planning to use this screen for.
6. Just a typical USB ports. Anything than Android can recognise, can be plugged in and used.

1. Oh wait so if I connect the OEM and switch to android, google maps wouldn't work for example? Is there a recommended Y cable in that case?
2.Got it
3.Got it
4.Got it
5.Got it
6.Got it

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Socaln54

1. Oh wait so if I connect the OEM and switch to android, google maps wouldn't work for example? Is there a recommended Y cable in that case?
2.Got it
3.Got it
4.Got it
5.Got it
6.Got it

Yeah, GPS on Android is completely separate thing than GPS on the OEM side. With OEM GPS antenna you can be connected to only one device. These units do come with a GPS antenna in form of a small box which you can use just for the Android, but if you want to split the OEM signal then use a diplexer. Unfortunately I cannot recommend any as the only one I know is sold only in Germany which is probably not an option for you.

[dandelion]

Originally Posted by Socaln54

1. Oh wait so if I connect the OEM and switch to android, google maps wouldn't work for example? Is there a recommended Y cable in that case?
2.Got it
3.Got it
4.Got it
5.Got it
6.Got it

I ended up running the provided GPS antenna to the passenger side, on the bottom of the A-pillar cover. See attached pic.

Note: Don't mount the LTE antenna where I have. I got 0 signal. Probably all blocked by the A-pillar itself. I ended up just sticking it at the corner on top of the dash really close to the windshield. Since it's black and it sits right behind the windshield wiper you can barely notice it.

[chiefthief]

I am wondering if anybody has encountered or knows the cause of an issue i am having with my new android screen in my 2012 F10 (CiC Pro Nav) where the idrive controller is controlling both the OEM iDrive and the Android screen at the same time?

I can tell because after using the android interface for a while, if I switch back to iDrive, a bunch of menu items have changed the its on a different screen to what it was when the car started.

I am also having a problem getting the steering wheel track selection wheel to work. It doesn't seem to do anything at all. The Voice button the steering wheel does open the maps and the phone button does open the Android dialler screen though.

The mode button just seems to change modes on OEM iDrive and not android though. (Despite having the mode button setting set to ON in the factory settings screen)

I can change tracks on the dashboard < > controls.

Thanks a lot

[Tomasz_pl]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Yeah, GPS on Android is completely separate thing than GPS on the OEM side. With OEM GPS antenna you can be connected to only one device. These units do come with a GPS antenna in form of a small box which you can use just for the Android, but if you want to split the OEM signal then use a diplexer. Unfortunately I cannot recommend any as the only one I know is sold only in Germany which is probably not an option for you.

Where can I buy a diplexer?
Can you get a link?

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Tomasz_pl

Where can I buy a diplexer?
Can you get a link?

You can get it here https://www.amazon.de/Antennentechni.../dp/B00EC4Q01I

[Mjam]

Originally Posted by dandelion

Note: Don't mount the LTE antenna where I have. I got 0 signal. Probably all blocked by the A-pillar itself. I ended up just sticking it at the corner on top of the dash really close to the windshield. Since it's black and it sits right behind the windshield wiper you can barely notice it.

I glued the LTE-antenna underneath the Android unit, measured best reception there. But after a year or so, the antenna had loosened from it's perfect location. The strong 3M tape is still on, but what does that help when this stripe is not properly glued on the antenna itself ... See picture. So anyone using this antenna should take it apart and glue it properly.

[Tomasz_pl]

Originally Posted by RedErik

You can get it here https://www.amazon.de/Antennentechni.../dp/B00EC4Q01I

Thanks.
I found it cheaper on Ebay (48E) + delivery to Polish only for 6.99 E

For me it works fine on the Y cable - but to be sure I will replace it with a diplexer

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Tomasz_pl

Thanks.
I found it cheaper on Ebay (48E) + delivery to Polish only for 6.99 E

For me it works fine on the Y cable - but to be sure I will replace it with a diplexer

Like I said before, this issue of screen blacking out every now and then caused by Y cable only affected some users and only after some time. But personally I prefer to be safe than sorry

[dandelion]

I have questions on the audio of the unit:

I'm already using the sound restorer from here. It seems I still have some trouble. https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...postcount=1526

1. The android volume is still lower than it should after booting up. I would launch spotify with google assistant, and I have to crank my radio volume all the way up to get decent volume from it. Problem now is when it chimes for open door or key left in car it chimes super loudly. If I tap the music icon on the home screen (still mapped to spotify) or the apps icon the volume would go back up.
2. Bluetooth music volume is very low. (I would still like to stream music from my phone sometimes.) If I crank it up then when navigation comes in it scares the heck out of me.
3. I have an e90 without OEM navigation. If I press the nav button by mistake it would show me a clock and stop all audio. After switching back to android all audio would be lost. Anyway to fix?
4. I thought the external speaker is supposed to work if I have the OEM radio switched to non-aux input (e.g. am/fm radio)? It doesn't seem to work reliably, esp when I switch between inputs during the drive?

[dandelion]

Originally Posted by Mjam

I glued the LTE-antenna underneath the Android unit, measured best reception there. But after a year or so, the antenna had loosened from it's perfect location. The strong 3M tape is still on, but what does that help when this stripe is not properly glued on the antenna itself ... See picture. So anyone using this antenna should take it apart and glue it properly.

Funny when I took my antenna off of the A pillar, the tape was so strong that it still held on to the actual antenna circuit and the black cover popped out. So I guess I would need to glue the cover onto the antenna circuit.

[F20_M135i]

Originally Posted by Tomasz_pl

Thanks.
I found it cheaper on Ebay (48E) + delivery to Polish only for 6.99 E

For me it works fine on the Y cable - but to be sure I will replace it with a diplexer

On Ebay France it is more expensive than on amazon.de and ... EDIT 4rageboy

Could you be kind enough to share your link please?

[fx27]

Originally Posted by F20_M135i

On Ebay France it is more expensive than on amazon.de and when we know the internal components, I am not sure that the price is fair ...

Could you be kind enough to share your link please?

What is fair? Must the retail price be the exact value of the internal parts?

Ever heard of research & development costs? Do you think high frequency electronics develops on it's own or it's just blasting some SMD parts on a PCB?

And yes, I've seen the internals.

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by fx27

What is fair? Must the retail price be the exact value of the internal parts?

Ever heard of research & development costs? Do you think high frequency electronics develops on it's own or it's just blasting some SMD parts on a PCB?

And yes, I've seen the internals.

If the total cost of a device would be a sum of value of it's components we would be paying like 400$ for the latest iPhone

[Tomasz_pl]

Originally Posted by F20_M135i

On Ebay France it is more expensive than on amazon.de and when we know the internal components, I am not sure that the price is fair ...

Could you be kind enough to share your link please?

Here is the link

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Antenne-Bad-Blankenburg-GPS-Signalverteiler-2-Receiver-FAKRA-4605-01/333880147866?epid=1522597707&hash=item4dbccebf9a:g :qmUAAOSwlYtgHaMX

[F20_M135i]

Originally Posted by fx27

What is fair? Must the retail price be the exact value of the internal parts?

Ever heard of research & development costs? Do you think high frequency electronics develops on it's own or it's just blasting some SMD parts on a PCB?

And yes, I've seen the internals.

Did you have a bad night?

Of course it is never in relation, but I do not see the point of your intervention here...

Good road guy

Tomasz_pl thank you for your link friend!

[Patchkabel]

Hi

as in my previous posts stated, ive got my SD625 HU installed in an E83. (MCU is using E39 software). As the vehicle is equipped with K-Bus the HU uses this (though the car has CAN, but only for Powertrain).

My HU came with an copied iDrive controller for e83. Its connected to permanet Battery Power. In Wakeup condition the current consumption is 32mA which is fine, but in idle state it consumes about 5-6mA which is in my opinion ok, but for modern electronics its too much.

So i modified the original HU wiring loom and connected it to Terminal R.


But i noteticed one annoying thing:
Very rarely but sometimes the HU doesnt Power off. The screen goes black with switching the ignition off, but android doesnt shutdown.

When i came back to the car and turn the ignition on, the HU turned instantly on.
One time my car barely started because of this. The HU consumes about 1A. My car was parking over 14h with HU on.

Its really rare, but it happens.

So i decided to bulid a litte PCB wich monitores the K-Bus and current consumption of the HU. If the HU doesnt shutdown in an approbiate time, it will kill power to the unit.

In additon it creates a Terminal R signal for the iDrive controller.
And it selectively passes K-Bus messages to the HU to avoid closing an app when pressing an steering wheel key. This happens rarely too.

The project isn't finished and currently not installed in the vehicle. Its still under development (software part).
I just wanted to share this, maybe this is helpful. I know it might not be useful for F-series owner.



Added some specs:
Active mode current consumption is approx. 4.5mA
Idle (iDrive controller off, HU on with active Watchdog) approx. 3mA
PowerDown (no K-Bus traffic, HU and iDrive switched off) approx. 500µA


best regards
Tom

[cracyelektron]

Originally Posted by Azkaban71

Oh my goodness. So complicated for me!!

Thanks for sharing

I got a GPS diplexer for the E63 with CCC.
For my E91 with CIC I will copy it out of interest.

With the E63 CCC I was able to solve the problem with the PDC as described above. The PDC now reacts to reverse gear and the PDC button.

With the E91 CIC, the PDC works perfectly, but only if you set the gear selection to automatic in the Android HU under Settings / Vehicle, then everything is ok, even though the vehicle is a purely manual vehicle and has no automatic transmission.

However, if you set the gear selection to manual, then the PDC only reacts to reverse gear and not to the PDC button.

With the E63 CCC there was no difference to the setting of the gear selection, whether manual or automatic, here the PDC only reacted to the reverse gear and not to the PDC button.

I suspect that the gear selection / automatic / manual setting is misleading and has nothing to do with the vehicle's transmission.

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by cracyelektron

I got a GPS diplexer for the E63 with CCC.
For my E91 with CIC I will copy it out of interest.

With the E63 CCC I was able to solve the problem with the PDC as described above. The PDC now reacts to reverse gear and the PDC button.

With the E91 CIC, the PDC works perfectly, but only if you set the gear selection to automatic in the Android HU under Settings / Vehicle, then everything is ok, even though the vehicle is a purely manual vehicle and has no automatic transmission.

However, if you set the gear selection to manual, then the PDC only reacts to reverse gear and not to the PDC button.

With the E63 CCC there was no difference to the setting of the gear selection, whether manual or automatic, here the PDC only reacted to the reverse gear and not to the PDC button.

I suspect that the gear selection / automatic / manual setting is misleading and has nothing to do with the vehicle's transmission.

I wonder if this issue is unique to CCC units or LZH vendor. But I need to follow your steps to finally sort out my PDC.

And yes, you are correct in saying the gear selection automatic / manual has nothing to do whit the transmission, it is just a poor translation.

[cracyelektron]

Originally Posted by RedErik

I wonder if this issue is unique to CCC units or LZH vendor. But I need to follow your steps to finally sort out my PDC.

And yes, you are correct in saying the gear selection automatic / manual has nothing to do whit the transmission, it is just a poor translation.

I believe this is only the case with the CCC system.

If you want the circuit for the PCD LED, I can still draw it and send it to you.

Sorry, what does LZH vendor mean?