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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N20, N26, B46, B48 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > My N20 does not like Liqui Moly
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      08-02-2019, 09:33 PM   #1
arvi604
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My N20 does not like Liqui Moly

A couple of years ago I made a post on here where I mentioned a strange problem when I changed my oil using Liqui Moly 5w40 LLF, my "minimum oil level" light came on after about 5500km.

I then switched over to using Castrol Edge 5w30 and did not have ANY issues over the next 3 oil change intervals.

My last change was back to LM just to try something different again. Lo and behold, 5500km into my interval the min oil level light came on again!

Super bizarre. There are no leaks, spark plugs aren't fouled so I know the piston rings and carbon deposits aren't an issue.

Will be the last time I use Lm for now. Any other similar experiences?
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      08-02-2019, 09:46 PM   #2
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I've been using LM for about 14k miles with no issues. 7k intervals for changes and the car is in the shop now for its third oil change with 5w30
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      08-02-2019, 10:57 PM   #3
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I switched over to Liqui Moly 5W30 Special Tec LL engine oil after my factory maintenance/warranty ended.

My car seems fine after trying out LM over BMW OEM engine oil. Next oil change interval might try Castrol Edge 5w30 since it's inexpensive but I don't mind to use LM again since it's made in Germany.
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      08-03-2019, 12:28 AM   #4
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I've read that the engine runs hotter with LM 5W-40
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      08-03-2019, 03:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alohasurftoad View Post
I've read that the engine runs hotter with LM 5W-40
I'm currently on my first oil change with LiquiMoly 0W-40. No problems, and the engine definitely runs a bit cooler. Takes slightly longer to get up to temp and doesn't reach quite as high of a peak temperature.
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      08-03-2019, 08:15 AM   #6
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I'm on my second change using Molygen 5w-30. No problems. I added Ceratec with the first change to Molygen, and my mileage is significantly better, though I can't say if the Ceratec or Molygen alone is responsible, having done both at the same time. I don't see the OPs issue being related to LiquiMoly, but it could be related to using the thicker 5W-40. I wouldn't use a 5W-40 unless I lived in the Mohave or similar climate.
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      08-03-2019, 11:42 AM   #7
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LM 5w40 here. Change every 5k miles. Have done 4 changes now and have had no problems.
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      08-07-2019, 05:20 PM   #8
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Used LM High-Tech for 30k and now Molygen for 30k with no issues... use around 6k change intervals
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      08-09-2019, 06:13 PM   #9
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Running LM Special Tec LL 5W30. Engine runs smoothly and even noticed a small up-tic in fuel mileage. I'm doing an oil change tomorrow and will be sending an oil sample to Blackstone for an analysis. My car is a 2015 320i with 49,000 miles.
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      08-18-2019, 05:45 PM   #10
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I noticed different oil weights: 5w40 and 5w30. Wondering if the higher weight could be the issue.
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      08-18-2019, 08:55 PM   #11
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Scroll up to Post #6.
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      09-16-2019, 04:43 PM   #12
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I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 for winter and 5w40 for summer. Car does not burn any oil and runs smooth.

I change my oil every 4 to 5K to keep it fresh as I push a lot of power and beat on her.
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      09-17-2019, 05:16 PM   #13
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I'm running 5w-40 LM Molygen now without issues. I was running 5w-40 Pennzoil Platinum Euro before; change my oil every 6k. I sent out the Pennzoil for a Blackstone analyses and it came back excellent. I will be doing the same with the LM in about 700 more miles. For my next oil change I'm thinking of going Amsoil. I will send that out for analyses too and decide from there which of the three I will stick with.

Did you add the correct amount of oil when you did your oil change? If your car is the RWD model, it takes exactly 5 qt, 10 oz. If you under fill, you will likely get the light to come on, not sure about if you overfill.

Last edited by IraHayes; 09-17-2019 at 05:22 PM..
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      09-18-2019, 09:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IraHayes View Post
Did you add the correct amount of oil when you did your oil change? If your car is the RWD model, it takes exactly 5 qt, 10 oz. If you under fill, you will likely get the light to come on, not sure about if you overfill.
Actually 5 liters (capacity of N20) is 169.07 ounces -- 5 quarts plus a few drops over 9 ozs.

That's one of the things I like most about Euro oil packaging -- it comes in 5L bottles. Just pour in the entire bottle.
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      09-18-2019, 10:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsouth View Post
Actually 5 liters (capacity of N20) is 169.07 ounces -- 5 quarts plus a few drops over 9 ozs.

That's one of the things I like most about Euro oil packaging -- it comes in 5L bottles. Just pour in the entire bottle.
Yes, you are correct. If you are able to get 5 liter jugs, your are golden.
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      09-18-2019, 06:59 PM   #16
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why don't you use the BMW OEM oil, the pennzoil plat euro 5W-40, I always did, never had issues:
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      05-23-2020, 05:57 PM   #17
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I've been using Liqui Moly Special Tec LL 5W30 for 30,000 miles. Oil analysis by Blackstone showed 10,000 mile intervals would be perfectly acceptable. Although I'll continue to change it before then.
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      05-25-2020, 09:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidBlue_F30 View Post
I've been using Liqui Moly Special Tec LL 5W30 for 30,000 miles. Oil analysis by Blackstone showed 10,000 mile intervals would be perfectly acceptable. Although I'll continue to change it before then.
You know how long it would take me to get to 10k lol, in two mths i put less than 300 miles on her..
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      05-25-2020, 10:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DadzBmer_N2o View Post
You know how long it would take me to get to 10k lol, in two mths i put less than 300 miles on her..


I change oil 6 month, no matter if I drive less .... 7000 miles is my target for oil change.
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      05-26-2020, 11:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DadzBmer_N2o View Post
You know how long it would take me to get to 10k lol, in two mths i put less than 300 miles on her..
Change it yearly anyway, and do it in the spring, to get rid of the crud that builds up in the crankcase in winter.
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