[wilbur_the_goose]

Or you can just install the default config for your car and live with it for a while. After a while, you can do the full config. I ended up using the default F34 config and I've had it for 2 years now.

[Billfitz]

This is adequate for a quick and easy look at what a system is doing:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d....audioanalyzer

Use the Spectrum Analyzer function, C Weighting, Slow Weighting.

Don't get hung up on the delay settings. The distances inside of a car are too short for them to have much effect.

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by wilbur_the_goose

Or you can just install the default config for your car and live with it for a while. After a while, you can do the full config. I ended up using the default F34 config and I've had it for 2 years now.

If the default file for your car AND amp has some basic EQ’ing done, sure it might hold you over for a while (although it defeats the purpose of using a DSP amp like this with your specific components). The default file for my amp (Match UP10DSP) and car (F80 sedan with HK), had no EQ’ing, very rough crossover points and no time alignment done. It sounded noticeably worse than the stock setup. So YMMV…..

There is a large thread in this forum with several tune files for the UP7DSP/UP7BMW with different speaker setups. At a minimum, I would start there first to find an initial tune file…

[georgi.petrov]

Well, I got the Match Up 7BMW installed... finally. It took me almost an year, I was busy travelling for half the year, then waited for availability... My intention was to also replace the sub bass speakers, but they didn't got them on stock, so that was left for later.

Current set-up: F34 LCI, Match Up 7BMW, all speakers stock.

So, as it is recommended by ATF, I loaded the default sound profile for GT and stock speakers from their site and played a track. Well, one can immediately tell, this is much more capable amp. Bass is much stronger and full and goes much deeper, mids are a lot better than before, highs, whoa, there are actually highs. Overall, the sound was quite satisfying and definitely better than before. I actually don't need much more than that.

Totally worth it.

The Sound stage though... not better than before and quite far from what I hope to achieve... The OEM HiFi amp not only sounded muddy and not very lively, but also had a very restrained sound stage. The sound comes heavily from the dashboard and not much stereo image. What I like is evenly front-back bias and wider image, that gives the feeling you are in the center of the stage and not in front of it. So I was pushing the fader heavily to the back seats before, but the iDrive built in fader is not very precise. Off to the DSP Tool...

Turned on the stage eXpander feature on low. Slightly better.
Reduced with 2dB the gain on front, cetner and bass channels and increased to 0 (it was -3dB) the rear channels. Better. This, of course, changed a bit the color of the sound - I got more mids and less bass. But the sound was too bass heavy anyway, the default set-up boost bass channels with +3dB. So some slight progress, but my understanding on how things with sound work end here, so I have few questions. And I will be really grateful for any answer or advise from you, guys, you have tons of knowledge and experience. I will focus on sound stage settings for now.

I downloaded some of the sound setups from this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1182351&page=6

And I noticed some differences in the time settings between, for example the foveon preset and the ATF one. The ATF tune has no delay on the cener, different but small delays on the front channels, quite big delay in the rear channels and no delay, but inverted phase on the base. The foveon one, though have some distances set that actually make sense, the center of the stage should be somewhere in the center of the car.

Few questoins:

1. Why the inverted phase on the base channels on the ATF tune? Is this kind of a replacement for adding some delay, or is it because the stock woofers have inverted magnet? The foveon tune though is supposedly also made for stock woofers.

2. Should I measure the distances with a ruler, or just take the time settings from lets say foveon tune, or get a mic and run the time autotune program in order to achieve better soundstage? I noticed Billfitz mentioned that playing with the time settings doesn't make much difference, any recommendations on how to get the best in this department?

3. My intention was to replace the OEM woofers with AI-Sonic BMW-SW8 (https://www.aigroup.fi/car-hifi/SUBW..._AISonicBMWSW8) Any recommendations and opinions here? I am supposed to get deeper and cleaner bass, though at this point I am not really convinced I need more bass.

4. Billfitz I noticed you got F34 too. Any recommendation on how to proceed from this point on? Any good sound setups you recommend trying?

And at the end, I will post one more photo, just for visual pleasure and to praise how good is this car for long distance travel. And it also illustrates why it needs a better sound for better travelling experience

[Billfitz]

Phase isn't inverted, polarity is. Inverted polarity equals 180 degrees of phase shift, explaining the confusion. Polarity is reversed if the unaltered configuration results in the waves from the woofer and those from the midranges where their responses overlap arrive at the listener 180 degrees apart, which results in a response cancellation notch. Flipping the polarity on one or the other fixes that. You don't want to assume it's necessary, it's best to measure the system response to be sure of it.

The only alterations I recommend from personal experience is the addition of rear door tweeters and crossovers in all four doors. I don't do DnB or hip-hop, I don't listen at live concert levels, so I don't need a system for those genres or volumes. When I want to listen to music at concert levels I do that in my living room.

Where the time align is concerned that makes a big difference when the distance differential is on the order of at least two meters. In a car you don't have that much distance, and you can only get it 'perfect' in one spot anyway.

The woofers you linked are no better than stock.

[georgi.petrov]

Thanks a lot, Billfitz

Sorry, my mistake on the phase/polarity confusion. I think I got the idea about the cancelling waves and why we need some compensation from the Audiofrog Tuning Guide, mentioned earlier in the thread. So, should I get the time settings (or even the whole setup) from the foveon's one or get a mic and run the time autotuning program in the DSP tool? Or by the way you sound, any of this will not make any noticeable change, so just leave the settings in the ATF's default profile?

I totally agree on the listening levels and genres. If you want live concert sound, you go to an actual live concert... Listening to levels that prevent you from hearing other cars is actually quite dangerous and for me unpleasant. Its a car not a studio

I'll consider tweeters on the back doors, the sound produced by the mid speakers there is quite crippled. And crossovers. I will check what are the options... woofers are probably out of the picture for now...

Thanks!

[jmciver]

Since you have the hardware, you should either tune your system yourself, have it tuned by a professional, or find another DIY tune posted on the forums that you like. But keep in mind that DIY tunes may or may not have been done with the same speaker hardware you have installed in your car - which does make a difference.

I am actually surprised if the tune file you downloaded from the Audiotec site actually had any EQ’ing done to it. Typically the tune files from their site are merely setup files to ensure proper signal routing to each speaker. The tuning software has a ton of functionality to allow you to tune your system to your liking, regardless of the components installed in your car.

So my recommendation would be to get a RTA microphone, take some measurements of your speakers, and tune it yourself. If you don’t like it, you should be able to find a stereo shop that can tune the system for you.

Below is a good video (one of many) that can help get you started…

https://youtu.be/UH5k2XPWcq0

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by georgi.petrov

And crossovers. I will check what are the options...

IME there are none. That's why I designed my own.

The original OEM setup doesn’t have crossovers between the midranges and tweeters. It only has a cheap NPE capacitor that keeps the midrange out of the tweeters. It doesn’t do a very good job of it, leading to distortion. There’s no filtering on the midranges to keep the high frequencies out of them, so literally a quarter of the high frequencies are lost going to the midranges that can't reproduce them.

This third order high pass filter is sixteen times more effective than a single capacitor in blocking midrange from the tweeters.



The low pass filter is second order. By using a third order high pass with a second order low pass polarity issues are avoided.



These are the parts:

8.2uf cap: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...acitor-027-426

20uF cap: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...acitor-027-436

0.1mH coil: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...r-Coil-257-020

0.2mH coil: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...r-Coil-257-024

These filters tap into the wiring to the drivers. The tweeters normally plug into the midranges, so you have to create a ‘Y’ in the wire leading to each midrange. One leg of the wire goes to the low pass filter and then to the midrange, the other goes to the high pass filter and then to the tweeter. The capacitor on the factory wire between the midrange and tweeter is discarded. The components can be hot melt glued and plastic zip tied to perf boards for placement in the doors.
https://www.parts-express.com/Red-Pe....5-x-5-260-180

I hard wired mine and glued the components to the doors, under the door card. I was comfortable doing it that way, but I designed and installed my first crossover circa 1970.

[GionniGaps]

Anyone knows or has installed MATCH UP 8DSP? It is compatile with PP-BMW 1.7RAM harness cable even if Audiotec didn't published yet Sound set up for their DSP Tools.

[Elvin86]

Halloo, anyone who has hk speakers with 86dsp amplifer, I need a file that is already installed ready for f34gt

[ChrispyGER]

Hey Guys,
do you hear a Hissing sound if you start the system? It is only noticeable if everything is turned off (engine / AC..) and only for 10-15 sec till the system turns off again if no sound / music is following. You really have to get your ear to the tweeters to hear it. Once you noticed it, you will hear it
I have a hissing everytime. But didn't find the "gain" to reduce...
Also this hissing comes with every file from this forum.
Do you have some ideas ? Tricks?

[snipagang]

I am about to buy the match up 7bmw amp, but I am just not sure what DSP is exactly and if I need to use it to code the amp into the car.... is DSP a software you download? how do you upload the DSP to the amplifier? 0 knowledge about sound whatsoever.

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by snipagang

I am about to buy the match up 7bmw amp, but I am just not sure what DSP is exactly and if I need to use it to code the amp into the car.... is DSP a software you download? how do you upload the DSP to the amplifier? 0 knowledge about sound whatsoever.

Watch the video I posted a few posts up as a start. Then Google is your friend to do a bit more research on the topics you may have more questions on. Tons of info out there…

[Elvin86]

Who can post here on the forum their hk match dsp file want to test on my f34 gt has match dsp and hk speakers

[vibroverbus]

Originally Posted by georgi.petrov

Well, I got the Match Up 7BMW installed... finally....
Current set-up: F34 LCI, Match Up 7BMW, all speakers stock.

So I am also considering this setup for my newly acquired F34 LCI since the stock sound is so disappointing... In my E39 540iT I built my own elaborate OE-DSP replacement setup using MiniDSP, so the software for the 7BMW looks totally easy, familiar, and it seems really powerful and easy to work with.

However - have a question for those who have real experience with the unit...

I've downloaded the software and a number of configs and have an IO config question.

While it appears that there are at least "5 + 2" defined input channels (actually 6 + 2 as there's a 'rear fill' channel input labeled), the IO routing for any files I have opened just seems to use the 3 front channels for inputs.

The rear outs are driven from the fronts and the subs driven from Center and Front Left.

I've opened several of Audiotec-Fishers examples as well as some of the widely mentioned user-created configs (foveon for example) and they all have this setup for IO.

Are there really only 3 audio channels coming into the amp and that's why this is setup this way? And if so does that mean you lose the front/rear fade control on the headunit? Why would the other channels be defined this way if they 'dont' exist' (it seems you could easily set Inputs C/D/F/G/H to "not assigned" if they really don't exist?)

[MSlv]

Bumping this as I’m also considering buying this amp and this would kinda be a dealbreaker for me if it’s not possible to map the correct channels…

[NiPe]

Originally Posted by ChrispyGER

Hey Guys,
do you hear a Hissing sound if you start the system? It is only noticeable if everything is turned off (engine / AC..) and only for 10-15 sec till the system turns off again if no sound / music is following. You really have to get your ear to the tweeters to hear it. Once you noticed it, you will hear it
I have a hissing everytime. But didn't find the "gain" to reduce...
Also this hissing comes with every file from this forum.
Do you have some ideas ? Tricks?

Hi there, I can only confirm... I have the exact same hissing noise, mine mounted in an F11
Tried the gain up and down on the amp, no difference what so ever, exactly the same noise and same level.
Very annoying, and once noticed it will always bug you.

Any suggestions anyone??

[NiPe]

Originally Posted by NiPe

Hi there, I can only confirm... I have the exact same hissing noise, mine mounted in an F11
Tried the gain up and down on the amp, no difference what so ever, exactly the same noise and same level.
Very annoying, and once noticed it will always bug you.

Any suggestions anyone??

Played around with the software, and the one and only adjustment I can find which actually reduce the hissing noise when system are turned off is the input gain.
You will find the setting in DCM menu, and signal management tab (the mid one)


When moving from 4Vrms default input gain in the Fisher "touring" file to 8Vrms the white noise are clearly reduced (but still present.)
Bad thing though, the whole sound system loose all the punch in low volumes with this setting, and the amp upgrade feels pointless.
I tried various compensations, i.e add gain to the bass channels via the software, and as well turn up the Gain knob on the amp up to compensate for the reduced input gain, but none of the mitigations gave back the "meat" in the sound from reduced input gain
Could this finding indicate a poor ground from the OEM head unit??

Again, any suggestions are appreciated

[NealfromNZ]

Think about going digital into the match via a Most / Toslink adapter

There is almost always a level of hiss when amplifying analog signals in car audio.

What you could try to make sure it’s not the Match is turn off routing from the analogue inputs and just have the digital input routed into your system. Turn the volume right up and listen for hiss. If no hiss then it’s coming through from the BMW audio.

Also worth trying plugging in anything you might have at home with a toslink output ( old dvd player etc ) and have a listen to the audio . This will give you an indication of what the March can achieve with a digital source and will be similar to Most adapter.

[Billfitz]

If you want to find the source of the hiss disconnect the amp inputs. If the hiss stops it's not the amp at fault. If the option exists for using digital interconnects by all means use it.

[Nettipepe]

Hi.just assebly my New match up 7 bmw amplifier.
Trying To find good set up file To an original speakers.
There is a tons on afp file but how To choose Best on with oem speakers