[BennnChen]

I just installed wheels onto my car, I have a 2013 F30 328i xDrive and when I got my alignment done. It says that the front left side has about -1 degrees of camber and that if I want to fix it, I'd have to replace the bearing but I also plan to get the Bilstein B14 so could the coilovers be the solution or do I have to do anything else?

[stxf30]

Originally Posted by BennnChen

I just installed wheels onto my car, I have a 2013 F30 328i xDrive and when I got my alignment done. It says that the front left side has about -1 degrees of camber and that if I want to fix it, I'd have to replace the bearing but I also plan to get the Bilstein B14 so could the coilovers be the solution or do I have to do anything else?

Bilstein B14 doesn't come with camber plates that allow you to adjust camber. If one side is off that much you probably have a damaged part in your suspension. You could correct it only if you purchase new plates that allow you to adjust camber. Like these: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=945419. Otherwise just buy coil overs that come with them.

[BennnChen]

Originally Posted by stxf30

Bilstein B14 doesn't come with camber plates that allow you to adjust camber. If one side is off that much you probably have a damaged part in your suspension. You could correct it only if you purchase new plates that allow you to adjust camber. Like these: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=945419. Otherwise just buy coil overs that come with them.

I called the shop and they said that the front left has -1.1 degrees of camber and the front right has -0.6 degrees of camber so it is off by 0.5

[Bee Pee]

Benn

Is your car in warranty ?

0.5 degree difference between L&R front camber is too much.

BMW have swivel housings with different plus and minus 0.5 camber so it's an easy fix to fit the a swivel bearing housing to either reduce RHS camber or increase LHS camber.

[BennnChen]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Benn

Is your car in warranty ?

0.5 degree difference between L&R front camber is too much.

BMW have swivel housings with different plus and minus 0.5 camber so it's an easy fix to fit the a swivel bearing housing to either reduce RHS camber or increase LHS camber.

Yeah I still have warranty for it but I swapped my wheels so I feel like BMW won't replace it under warranty. The wheels were bent and I swapped them out asap but I went staggered for an AWD

[j2edwards]

@Bee Pee I have the same problem, can you explain more on the swivel housings?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by j2edwards

I have the same problem, can you explain more on the swivel housings?

Have a look on Realoem link below

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0956

item # 2 below

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by BennnChen

I just installed wheels onto my car, I have a 2013 F30 328i xDrive and when I got my alignment done. It says that the front left side has about -1 degrees of camber and that if I want to fix it, I'd have to replace the bearing but I also plan to get the Bilstein B14 so could the coilovers be the solution or do I have to do anything else?

Make sure your subframe is square if there is no suspension damage.

[Musashi]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Make sure your subframe is square if there is no suspension damage.

Question, I have the exact same issue, 3 years alignments where the front went from L -0.6 R -0.6 to -0.9/-0.6 and -1.1/0.6. How do you check for the subframe, and can it be adjusted, or will this be a hub/swivel bearing type repair?

[Musashi]

Originally Posted by BennnChen

I just installed wheels onto my car, I have a 2013 F30 328i xDrive and when I got my alignment done. It says that the front left side has about -1 degrees of camber and that if I want to fix it, I'd have to replace the bearing but I also plan to get the Bilstein B14 so could the coilovers be the solution or do I have to do anything else?

Question bavarian sisters and brothers, -0.53 L R front camber, tangible pull right, how to resolve?

Initially the car had -0.6 / -0.6 front camber. Somehow, that became -0.9/-0.6 and -1.1/-0.6 over these years. Perhaps that road cutout at 50 mph, thanks Pirelli RFT! Yet... it increased since?

Attached my last alignment, today. Swivel bearing then?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Musashi

Question, I have the exact same issue, 3 years alignments where the front went from L -0.6 R -0.6 to -0.9/-0.6 and -1.1/0.6. How do you check for the subframe, and can it be adjusted, or will this be a hub/swivel bearing type repair?

What does your alignment tech recommend you do?

[Musashi]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

What does your alignment tech recommend you do?

Swivel bearing on the FR, and match the FL.

[fehouse]

A similar question here.
I bought a 2013 435i M Sports and had its wheels aligned yesterday, but the tech couldn't put the front left camber back within the spec. The front left camber is -1.12 while the right side is -0.12. The spec is (-0.04, -0.54). Is this difference allowable? I also wonder what could have caused the camber change. The seller said it never had an accident or hit curbs but I never know... The steering wheel was off-center to the right (\) and the car was pulling slightly to the left before alignment but these problems seem to have been resolved after alignment. The front wheels have new standard tyres 225/40R19 93Y, but don't think this can be related to the issue... Any advice?

[Panda45]

Originally Posted by Musashi

Question, I have the exact same issue, 3 years alignments where the front went from L -0.6 R -0.6 to -0.9/-0.6 and -1.1/0.6. How do you check for the subframe, and can it be adjusted, or will this be a hub/swivel bearing type repair?

Hi Musashi, I think got the same problem with my F31 LCI 335d, my camber is L -0.5 and R +0.1

Did you found out what was the problem or how did you solve it? Can the subframe be moved?

Thank you

[shiftdnb]

I'm having issues where my LF is not in alignment with RF. Even installed camber plates for my alignment guy to help fix it when I lowered it on Eibach springs and put in Bilstein B8's. He still couldn't get it right. Has me wondering if it's a bent thrust arm or something as I've already changed the shocks.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by shiftdnb

I'm having issues where my LF is not in alignment with RF. Even installed camber plates for my alignment guy to help fix it when I lowered it on Eibach springs and put in Bilstein B8's. He still couldn't get it right. Has me wondering if it's a bent thrust arm or something as I've already changed the shocks.

What aspect of the alignment is differing when you compare LF and RF ?

Camber ?
Caster ?
Toe ?

There are many possible causes of poor alignment between including worn bushes, bent arms or track rod ends, different ride heights, bent chassis, etc.

If you can elaborate on the problem it may help to isolate some of the possible factors.

[shiftdnb]

Originally Posted by Watsey

What aspect of the alignment is differing when you compare LF and RF ?

Camber ?
Caster ?
Toe ?

There are many possible causes of poor alignment between including worn bushes, bent arms or track rod ends, different ride heights, bent chassis, etc.

If you can elaborate on the problem it may help to isolate some of the possible factors.

The cambers are off, we couldn't even get the LF to be within spec at 1.6. I had put a suspension in myself and he had me get camber plates as it was an issue before and thought it might be able to correct it. He's able to get the toe and caster right and car drives fine just can't seem to get past -1. Said all my work was solid. He mentioned the OEM swivel housings or using an adjustable control arm. Having done a little research I'm going to see if I can find out if the subframe is aligned right first.

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by shiftdnb

The cambers are off, we couldn't even get the LF to be within spec at 1.6. I had put a suspension in myself and he had me get camber plates as it was an issue before and thought it might be able to correct it. He's able to get the toe and caster right and car drives fine just can't seem to get past -1. Said all my work was solid. He mentioned the OEM swivel housings or using an adjustable control arm. Having done a little research I'm going to see if I can find out if the subframe is aligned right first.

When you say "within spec at 1.6" whose spec are you referring to ?

Are you running OEM arms and bushes ?

Most quality camber plates will go to at least -2.5. There shouldn't be any need for adjustable length arms for a road spec geo if you are already using plates.

Something definitely does seem right.

[Markyboyt]

Originally Posted by Watsey

When you say "within spec at 1.6" whose spec are you referring to ?

Are you running OEM arms and bushes ?

Most quality camber plates will go to at least -2.5. There shouldn't be any need for adjustable length arms for a road spec geo if you are already using plates.

Something definitely does seem right.

+1 from me.

If it’s out of spec by so much then something is bent and needs replacing first.
If the alignment guy isn’t aware of that then I would advise finding a new one.

[zinner]

I am surprised to hear there is a camber issue up front. I don't have a X drive, but on my RWD F30 there is no camber adjustment capability from the factory on the front axle. It should just be neutral from the factory, maybe there is something worn out or out of spec causing the issue? If the shop that says it's out of spec doesn't have a solution maybe a visit to another shop might be in order. I wouldn't just start suggesting fixes to the tech/shop. -1 degree isn't the end of the world, but yeah it will cause a little uneven wear over time.

[SD Convert]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

BMW have swivel housings with different plus and minus 0.5 camber so it's an easy fix to fit the a swivel bearing housing to either reduce RHS camber or increase LHS camber.

These steering knuckles are for the M3 & M4. In addition to different camber, the holes for the calipers are 5mm farther out.

[SuperLomi]

Originally Posted by SD Convert

These steering knuckles are for the M3 & M4. In addition to different camber, the holes for the calipers are 5mm farther out.

That’s not correct. The M3/4 have completely different part numbers from the camber correction hubs.