10-12-2019, 04:20 PM | #1 |
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Just arrived, this is going in in conjunction with CDV-delete clutch slave cylinder. I will report back with review!
By the way, I am going with the second hole for the over-center spring. I want a little more than stock weight but still light enough for stop and go traffic. Anyone have experience with experimenting with the different holes or removing the over-center spring entirely? |
10-18-2019, 12:55 AM | #2 |
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Just picked up the car and drove about 15 miles. It's totally different than stock. When I first sat in the car the clutch engagement point was right off the floor, I was very impressed. But after a minute of driving the engagement point moved up, almost where it was at stock. I don't think I have air in the line, I just think the new slave took a few minutes to "settle in." I was hoping the engagement point would stay low but I didn't install these parts expecting the clutch engagement point to change, so I am ok with it.
It's hard to give an accurate review so quickly. The throw is a LITTLE less. I like that the clutch is now slightly lower than the brake pedal, before the clutch was higher than the brake pedal. I think the biggest difference is coming more from the CDV removed than the new pedal. I put the spring in the middle hole. Clutch is less linear but definitely not heavy, you can feel the engagement point. The car feels more like...a toy. The pedal feels more springy than before. I'm on the fence about whether or not I like that. Before you had to release the clutch very slowly to get a smooth second gear shift. I can't totally tell but it seems you still have to release somewhat slowly, but less so than before. There is definitely more direct control of the clutch without the CDV getting in the way. In short, even though it's totally different than stock, the difference is subtle. All in it cost $700. Probably not the best $700 you can spend on the car because the change is so minimal. I will give an updated review after I get used to it. |
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10-23-2019, 06:14 PM | #3 |
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Can't you just remove the spring? That's what I plan on doing.
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10-23-2019, 07:44 PM | #4 |
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Yes, per instructions you can. Depends on how stiff you want the pedal.
I think I was dealing with 2 issues after the install, the slave cylinder was no extending all the way, either because of air bubbles or because it was brand new. I knew this because the engagement point was moving up (toward driver) and the pedal would get a little stiffer/springy after some driving. Now that I have been driving it for a few days the pedal is consistent. Engagement point is about where it was before, no more delay, and pedal is a little more stiff/springy than before the CDV delete and UCP. Either the bubbles worked themselves out or the slave took some time to work as it should. |
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10-23-2019, 09:14 PM | #5 |
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I just put it on the stiffest setting. I'd recommend you try it. After a few weeks have passed and you're ready to go under there again. Have fun those E clips are a blast.
The main thing is it sits even with the brake pedal and doesn't have all the dead travel at the top. It's smoother too due to the brass bushing over the plastic one. If you want stiffer you need to change the pressure plate. If you want a super low catch point you need a longer push rod for the slave cylinder. I believe I've seen one made somewhere but I don't think it was for the f30. I didn't like the stock pedal without the spring, it was ok, just felt kinda weird. $700? I got it for 300 USD .. |
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10-24-2019, 12:05 AM | #6 | |
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Longer push rod? That seems counterintuitive. Seems a shorter push rod would catch quicker. What am I missing? |
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10-24-2019, 11:21 AM | #7 |
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Longer push rod will fully actuate the slave with less travel from rest. Shorter would worsen the problem.
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328i RWD | MW on CRed Slick Top | 6MT | BM3 | MPE | GPlus FMIC | CSF Radiator | Millway Street Camber Plates & Monoballs | KW V2 6k/18k Swift Springs | F80 LCA/TS | SPL Bump Steer Kit | APEX SM-10 | R-S4 | DS2500 | RBF600 | SS Lines | Past: E36 328is & E38 740i |
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10-24-2019, 11:50 AM | #8 | |
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10-24-2019, 05:23 PM | #9 | ||
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That aside I would consider trying the BMS clutch stop before modifying the hydraulics. Super cheap and way easier to install, have had one on my car for a couple years now.
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328i RWD | MW on CRed Slick Top | 6MT | BM3 | MPE | GPlus FMIC | CSF Radiator | Millway Street Camber Plates & Monoballs | KW V2 6k/18k Swift Springs | F80 LCA/TS | SPL Bump Steer Kit | APEX SM-10 | R-S4 | DS2500 | RBF600 | SS Lines | Past: E36 328is & E38 740i |
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10-25-2019, 04:21 PM | #10 |
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I just took out the clutch stop and probably doubled its height. Now I am at the limit for the height of the clutch stop because I have to press the clutch pedal hard to get the car to start...but I LOVE it now. Clutch FINALLY feels right. Engages quickly off the "floor." No more ambiguous clutch engagement point. The clutch stop gives your foot a great point of reference. I read in other threads people were removing washers, I needed to add a bunch of washers.
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