[marcozen]

And for the addicts in this group ... here is the link for the Honeywell Garrett GT3076r mentioned above ....

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...argers/gt3076r

Horsepower: 310 - 525
Displacement: 2.0L - 3.5L

However ....

There doesnt seem to be an OE replacement for the F30s except for the 2012 320i 1.6 Litre N13B16A engine. They do seem more diesel centric though.

https://installerconnect.honeywell.c...de=&lang=en_US

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by fcbrandon

It's my understanding the power tolerances for internals (and all driveline components) are measured by torque, not horsepower (Which is why the tranny are torque limited, no HP limited). I've seen other, similar platforms get larger HP numbers by controlling max torque carefully, throughout the rev range. Looking at the math, if we can get a turbo to produce 320ft-lb at 6500 rpm, we'll be knocking right up on 400hp (theoretically >400hp at 6700). Horsepower is just a calculation of torque at a given rpm.

I'm guessing folks are saying failure at x-HP is due to a higher torque at the given failure RPM?

Has anyone tried something like a GT3076, or other higher flowing turbo, other than a modified stock unit? I haven't seen anybody selling manifolds, so I'm guessing, at the very least, it's not a common upgrade path.

Yeah, I suppose in our context they are a little more synonymous due to the smaller turbos almost always giving out a higher torque output. That being said, you could always shift your torque curve and lower the output.

[fcbrandon]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yeah, I suppose in our context they are a little more synonymous due to the smaller turbos almost always giving out a higher torque output. That being said, you could always shift your torque curve and lower the output.

Thanks for the sanity check; this is what I was thinking.

I'm not yet sure I want to invest and take the risk, but it does seem the best way to safely get power out. The cost of the turbo and custom manifold is not small, nevermind and potential fuelling upgrades that may be required. I've seen so theoretically discussions on the HP limitations of the fuel system, but I hadn't seen any hard limits reached yet. They could be here on the forum, just noting I haven't seen them I suspect you'd have a reasonable idea though bunker

I agree it seems the smaller turbos won't flow enough in the higher RPM to get bigger HP numbers, otherwise I'm guessing Dinan and Pure would already be doing that.

[ilivas]

Are the turbos not holding max boost to redline? Does boost taper off?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by ilivas

Are the turbos not holding max boost to redline? Does boost taper off?

Boost will hold up to redline on EWG but the flow rate doesn't allow for top-end performance.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by fcbrandon

Thanks for the sanity check; this is what I was thinking.

I'm not yet sure I want to invest and take the risk, but it does seem the best way to safely get power out. The cost of the turbo and custom manifold is not small, nevermind and potential fuelling upgrades that may be required. I've seen so theoretically discussions on the HP limitations of the fuel system, but I hadn't seen any hard limits reached yet. They could be here on the forum, just noting I haven't seen them I suspect you'd have a reasonable idea though bunker

I agree it seems the smaller turbos won't flow enough in the higher RPM to get bigger HP numbers, otherwise I'm guessing Dinan and Pure would already be doing that.

Oh yeah, it can start to get pricey especially when you put in all that money just to be met with a low ceiling before having to build the engine. In terms of fuel, I've only seen that the LPFP for us needs to be replaced for E30+ mixtures, mainly as a preventive measure. Our HPFP/injectors seem to hold up much better than the N55, who seems to fall on its face on even a stage 2 tune.

I went with the MHI turbo because it was a bolt on and it gives you that higher flow rate to help out the top end. This isn't an M killer (maybe with a custom tune+ethanol and the M is stock) but it makes for a better powerband and driving experience.

[ilivas]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Boost will hold up to redline on EWG but the flow rate doesn't allow for top-end performance.

Generally boost is boost as long as it’s still in the right efficiency range and over boosting which turns it into a hair dryer and blows super hot air. 20psi on a small turbo should be the same as 20 psi on a larger turbo.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by ilivas

Generally boost is boost as long as it’s still in the right efficiency range and over boosting which turns it into a hair dryer and blows super hot air. 20psi on a small turbo should be the same as 20 psi on a larger turbo.

For the stock turbo, top-end does drop down to 19psi almost 18psi. You're right. I was looking at a log of the MHI turbo lol...

But yeah, the volumetric efficiency of the stock one is much lower up top and drops what appears to be 3-5PSI. You could minimize that a little more with a higher WGDC but you would probably run into a hair dryer x2 lol.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

For the stock turbo, top-end does drop down to 19psi almost 18psi. You're right. I was looking at a log of the MHI turbo lol...

But yeah, the volumetric efficiency of the stock one is much lower up top and drops what appears to be 3-5PSI. You could minimize that a little more with a higher WGDC but you would probably run into a hair dryer x2 lol.

Care to explain waste gate duty cycle for me I see it expressed as a percentage in my datalogs, but never quite understood what it meant.

[THbimmer]

Car has stalled on me while driving ... turned it off and on again and went fine.... check the OBD codes and it shows me this...

D01646 Message (angle, accelerator pedal, 40.1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D018E1 Message (torque, crankshaft 1, 40.1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01557 Message (wheel torque, engine 1, 41.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01558 Message (wheel torque, engine 2, 41.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D0156D Message (wheel torque, engine 3, 61.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01570 Message (wheel torque, engine 4, 40.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01B3F Message (wheel torque, engine 5, 40.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01A08 Message (wheel torque, engine 6, 61.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE

Any ideas? i have searched and can't find anything....

Much Appreciated guys.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Care to explain waste gate duty cycle for me I see it expressed as a percentage in my datalogs, but never quite understood what it meant.

It represents how much your wastegate is open/closed. 0% would be fully open, which allows the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine. 100% would be fully closed, which means the exhaust gas is all going through the turbine. Typically you want your WGDC in the lower 90%'s on a WOT pull as 100% means that the turbo is usually at its max. That's not to say you can't run 100% but you have to make sure you're not pushing the turbo out of its efficiency range and as ilivas said, creating a hair dryer. For us EWG, you'll see 90-95% on average while PWG can seemingly drop to half of that.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by THbimmer

Car has stalled on me while driving ... turned it off and on again and went fine.... check the OBD codes and it shows me this...

D01646 Message (angle, accelerator pedal, 40.1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D018E1 Message (torque, crankshaft 1, 40.1.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01557 Message (wheel torque, engine 1, 41.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01558 Message (wheel torque, engine 2, 41.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D0156D Message (wheel torque, engine 3, 61.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01570 Message (wheel torque, engine 4, 40.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01B3F Message (wheel torque, engine 5, 40.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE
D01A08 Message (wheel torque, engine 6, 61.3.4) missing, receiver ICM, transmitter DME/DDE

Any ideas? i have searched and can't find anything....

Much Appreciated guys.

Looks like the DME and ICM aren't communicating. Before you start going and pulling wires, I'd try to see if you can put the DME back to stock to ensure it's not a tune issue. If you still are getting it, you could have a bad wire or wires somewhere in that chain. Electrical/wiring issues are not uncommon in the F30s unfortunately.

That's all I can think of for right now. Have you done any other coding to the car aside from the DME flash?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

It represents how much your wastegate is open/closed. 0% would be fully open, which allows the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine. 100% would be fully closed, which means the exhaust gas is all going through the turbine. Typically you want your WGDC in the lower 90%'s on a WOT pull as 100% means that the turbo is usually at its max. That's not to say you can't run 100% but you have to make sure you're not pushing the turbo out of its efficiency range and as ilivas said, creating a hair dryer. For us EWG, you'll see 90-95% on average while PWG can seemingly drop to half of that.

Perfect explanation, thanks.

[silvermarky]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Perfect explanation, thanks.

Cleared it up for me, thanks man.

[fate_f30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Hey Everyone,

So had a few people reply to my last thread indicating some interest in me starting a build thread for my N26. I will say this is going to be a rolling thread, so I'll try to edit this post as well as reserve the next few comments on this thread for editing sake and keeping everything towards the top of the thread. Not much of a backstory regarding this car: I've had it for a year and a half now, with almost zero issues. I'll try to go chronologically in each respective area. I also included Imgur links vs. doing attachments, for the sake of not downgrading the quality.

I said I wouldn't get a turbo and here I am....

Engine
Mishimoto Intake: This was my first buy when I got this car. All black intake, great quality. Similar to all the other intakes: you can hear the turbo spool and the get the nice "Shhpshhhh" when you let off the gas.

View post on imgur.com

Evolution Racewerks Turbo-to-Intercooler Chargepipe, Chargepipe, and Front Mount Intercooler: I grouped these together since I got them all the same time and don't warrant their own bullet. I went with ER because I've heard of their great quality, but I've also heard of compatibility issues. I asked around for a bit to be sure it'd all fit and I was reassured. I will say this, however, Always ask if you're mixing the chargepipe and intercooler with different brands. Whether that's ER to Wagner, ER to VRSF. While each company should build to be compatible with OEM parts, it's not always true. Always search the forum and at the very least, make a post asking. Another note is always to make sure you get the right parts for your engine model. The N20 and N26 aren't vastly different, but certain parts are specific to the model (Downpipe, exhaust, etc.). Also be sure there isn't a separate X-Drive/Non-X-Drive part.

https://imgur.com/lI9W01f https://imgur.com/lI9W01f View post on imgur.com

Muffler Delete: So I'll talk about this briefly because this is a path I did go down. I got my muffler delete done for a little over a hundred dollars, so I figured why not. On the N26, it doesn't sound too bad. You will get drone when you're low gear and high speed (Think ECO/Comfort). It's nice and loud when you WOT and otherwise general driving, but it lacks a "voice". It's loud, but the tone just isn't right. I will say it's a good budget mod, but don't expect to keep it forever unless you're into that stuff. I'll link to another thread in which myself and Phil2thejay posted our results: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...Muffler+Delete

Evolution Racewerks Catless Downpipe/AWE Touring Quad Exhaust with Resonated Midpipe: This was my upgrade to the aforementioned muffler delete and what an improvement. Similar to the woes of fitment issues of the chargepipe, I was also worried here that ER and AWE weren't going to be compatible. Needless to say, they were. Both were engineered to be compatible with OEM parts, so they fit perfectly. Additionally, as mentioned earlier, be sure you know which engine you have. N20/N26 come into play here. I'm lacking photos here, but I promise I'll get some today! Until then, I did take a video last night, showcasing the sound the car makes now.

View post on imgur.com

Highlights:
0:05 Start
0:30-1:05 First acceleration and gurgles to the end of the street
1:29-1:40 Second acceleration to the stop sign, more gurgles
1:45-2:05 So four gear shifts here. 1st to 2nd was around 3k, 2nd to 3rd around 4.5k, and 3rd to 4th around 6k. (WOT and shifting at 6k lets out a rip of snaps/crackles that's pretty satisfying to do in a tunnel.)
2:05-2:56 Various burbles through a parking lot
3:00-3:20 Parked and revved the car to about 4k and then a few revs just a little over 1k
4:00-4:05 One of the longer burbles
4:40-4:48 Nice, long burble
5:05-5:28 Another acceleration with a 6k shift

NGK Iridium Plugs/Bootmod3 Flash Tune: Plugs were simple, so wanted to include them here. Gapped to 0.018" as requested by ProtuningFreaks (BM3 creators). As for the tune, this is leaps and bounds beyond the Dinan Sport Tuner I had before (Which is also a great budget mod to hold you over). I have a Stage 2, 91OCT tune that I run daily. I have yet to dyno (I know, I promise I'll get #s when the new turbo is in and tuned), but the butt dyno indicates it's a hell of a lot faster. In a safe environment, I have successfully pulled on several Mustangs, Challengers, 3/428i, 335i, etc. Between all of the components, it sounds beautiful. Turbo spool is heard right upon acceleration, burbles/cracks/pops on WOT shifts and downshifting, and the cold start being coded out is great (You're welcome, neighbors).

Go Fast Bits Diverter+ (DV+)
So, this was a nifty little upgrade. GFB will send you a new plunger, which takes out the old OEM one with six holes, and brings it down to just one. Additionally, they provide two new springs and new bolts. The install is fairly simple and save yourself time by doing the easiest way, which is to loosen the manifold. For testing sake, we did attempt an install by removing the coolant pipe and elbow pipe, but there isn't enough room for the inside screw. On top of that, you get coolant everywhere! So, the best way will be to loosen the manifold, pull it out, and remove the DV body. After the install, we noticed that I would get some lovely flutter under low RPM releases (Talking under 3.5k or so). I've attached the video. Please ignore my obnoxious voice. I promise to replace this with a video not including my voice, lol.

MHI Big Turbo
Not a lot to say here just yet, but this turbo was looking quite nice for the price. You get a new turbo, manifold, and wastegate, for almost half the price of a Frankenstein. It's rated for 32PSI, but still going to keep it around 23PSI; however, this time we are going to push the engine to about 300whp/350wtq. That appears to be safe range at this time. I will be playing with these numbers some as I explore ways to cool the engine (most importantly those rods) and push it a bit further.

Suspension
Solowerks S1 Coilovers: I will say hands-down, these are the best "bang-for-your-buck" coilovers I've encountered on the market. For someone who primarily DDs the car, they're right in the middle of stiff/soft. Much better feel than OEM and the reduced body roll is great on turns. Forgive me for not grabbing a before photo, but a quick Google search or looking at your own car will show the difference between the stock ride height and mine. I dropped 1" in the front and 0.5" in the rear.

View post on imgur.com

Interior/Exterior
M-Sport Retrofit and DEPO Headlights Install: Nothing crazy here, especially on the exterior. I got the bumper(s) (Still waiting on the rear to come in) from Mod Bargains and they're PP. Overall great quality. As for the steering wheel, I did retrofit the M-Sport (Not the M-Performance with the circular airbag) steering wheel with paddles. Being a base model with no packages, this did require coding and wiring the paddles. I soldered some wires together and wired it accordingly. For coding, I followed one of the DIY threads on here and did the 2TB (Sport Auto Transmission) as well. If you don't have that coded in (You won't have Sport+), I highly recommend it. Sport+ is amazing and the shifting speed is as well. For the headlights, also fairly simple install. Took me about 3 hours due to the locking nuts spinning and requiring vise grips.

Car when it was stock:

https://imgur.com/6C5vuYH https://imgur.com/6C5vuYH View post on imgur.com

Front shot after upgrades:

View post on imgur.com

All-in-all, this has been a fun build and I still have some exterior/interior modifications on the way. I didn't add wheels, brakes, and some other things I did, because they don't offer much. I will be adding videos of pulls, more pictures, and dyno results in the coming weeks, so stay tuned! Also, please ask questions! If I can't answer it, someone else can. If you've done something different than I on a similar build, feel free to post it here. The point of this thread is to not only share my experience but yours as well!

I'm very excited about your build and I'm happy to see a lot of the parts you used worked out really well. As you know I'm doing a very similar build besides the turbo upgrade. Do you remember the part number of the spark plugs you used? And the part number of the Go Fast Bits Diverter+ (DV+)? Thanks

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by fate_f30

I'm very excited about your build and I'm happy to see a lot of the parts you used worked out really well. As you know I'm doing a very similar build besides the turbo upgrade. Do you remember the part number of the spark plugs you used? And the part number of the Go Fast Bits Diverter+ (DV+)? Thanks

SILZKBR8D8S is the number for the spark plugs. Me, Bunker and lots of others are running these same ones. They're recommend for anything stage 2. Not sure about the DV+ though.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by fate_f30

I'm very excited about your build and I'm happy to see a lot of the parts you used worked out really well. As you know I'm doing a very similar build besides the turbo upgrade. Do you remember the part number of the spark plugs you used? And the part number of the Go Fast Bits Diverter+ (DV+)? Thanks

T9357 for the DV+

[fate_f30]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

SILZKBR8D8S is the number for the spark plugs. Me, Bunker and lots of others are running these same ones. They're recommend for anything stage 2. Not sure about the DV+ though.

Thank you!

[THbimmer]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Looks like the DME and ICM aren't communicating. Before you start going and pulling wires, I'd try to see if you can put the DME back to stock to ensure it's not a tune issue. If you still are getting it, you could have a bad wire or wires somewhere in that chain. Electrical/wiring issues are not uncommon in the F30s unfortunately.

That's all I can think of for right now. Have you done any other coding to the car aside from the DME flash?

Done a few simple things like brighter day time lights and m sport logo on start up for the cluster.

Nothing crazy ... car has stalled on me 2 times in the past week and gave the same codes... giving me a headache...

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by THbimmer

Done a few simple things like brighter day time lights and m sport logo on start up for the cluster.

Nothing crazy ... car has stalled on me 2 times in the past week and gave the same codes... giving me a headache...

Have you tried flashing to stock and seeing the results? Probably one of the easier choices before looking at the mechanical side.

[fate_f30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Have you tried flashing to stock and seeing the results? Probably one of the easier choices before looking at the mechanical side.

Are you 100% sure the Go Fast DV valve (T9357) will work with the n26? I’m tech wanted to know for sure before he drops the manifold.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by fate_f30

Are you 100% sure the Go Fast DV valve (T9357) will work with the n26? I’m tech wanted to know for sure before he drops the manifold.

Yes. That's the same one we all have. The N20 and N26 share the same turbo.