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      01-15-2020, 07:34 AM   #2091
Kri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Kir if you have better things to do then leave it. I will cope without these changes. I wanted to replace some graphics for ID6, ID7 and dashboard along with couple of xml layout files.

It would be nice to know what is going on with this app, but if this's a major pain in the backside, then maybe it's a waste of time.
they are looking great

but the files are jpg, they need to be png files, and is transparency active ?

Kri
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      01-15-2020, 07:44 AM   #2092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kri View Post
yep, you can find my harness measuring here.

Kri
I'm started from reading it. That is why I reply to you
Did you notice background operation of idrive controller in both android and cic at same time?
Currently I'm implementing my own CAN bridge to solve this, and curious how it is probably can be done using 1 transceiver in this case
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      01-15-2020, 07:46 AM   #2093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybertiger View Post
Thanks.
Could you also confirm, that CAN1 and CAN2 cables go to different ends of quadlock adapter?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would there be more than one CAN (LOW and HIGH) connector on the quadlock? I think my unit has both CAN1 and CAN2 transceivers but only one is used as car is fitted with older CAN1. CAN2 would be for NBT and higher. So maybe it's there because it's cheaper to manufacture one universal PCB than few variants?

Edit: I get it now! Sorry had one of these moments. You mean not the quadlock on OEM head unit but rather the bottom connector on Android unit. I will have to pull the unit out and check it for you. I'll try to do this over the weekend.

Last edited by RedErik; 01-15-2020 at 08:57 AM..
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      01-15-2020, 07:49 AM   #2094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would there be more than one CAN (LOW and HIGH) connector on the quadlock? I think my unit has both CAN1 and CAN2 transceivers but only one is used as car is fitted with older CAN1. CAN2 would be for NBT and higher. So maybe it's there because it's cheaper to manufacture one universal PCB than few variants?
Jep it cheaper, some Cars like old Z4 E85 do require a different CAN cabling, i don`t know what is different but the manual does show that it has to be setup different.

Kri

Last edited by Kri; 01-15-2020 at 08:18 AM..
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      01-15-2020, 07:53 AM   #2095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kri View Post
they are looking great

but the files are jpg, they need to be png files, and is transparency active ?

Kri
Thanks Kri and yes, these are proper png files with transparency etc. I just quickly put them together in jpg to attache to this thread.
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      01-15-2020, 07:57 AM   #2096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would there be more than one CAN (LOW and HIGH) connector on the quadlock? I think my unit has both CAN1 and CAN2 transceivers but only one is used as car is fitted with older CAN1. CAN2 would be for NBT and higher. So maybe it's there because it's cheaper to manufacture one universal PCB than few variants?
I can't see text on your transceivers, but in my version one is TJA1054 and other is missing. Could you check yours?
TJA1054 is limited to 125kbs. While NBT is 500kbs.
I believe, that original PCB and MCU firmware where implementing
CAN bridge, to filter out iDrive controller messages from traffic to CIC/CCC/NBT in Android mode.
In the schema like this:
BMW HU (quadlock)<=CAN1=> Android HU <=CAN2=> (quadlock adapter) CAR

And after some cloning (and mutation? ) manufacturers discarded this
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      01-15-2020, 08:05 AM   #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would there be more than one CAN (LOW and HIGH) connector on the quadlock? I think my unit has both CAN1 and CAN2 transceivers but only one is used as car is fitted with older CAN1. CAN2 would be for NBT and higher. So maybe it's there because it's cheaper to manufacture one universal PCB than few variants?

Edit: I get it now! Sorry had one of these moments. You mean Not quadlock at the OEM head unit but rather the bottom connector on Android unit. I will have to pull the unit out and check it for you. I'll try to do this over the weekend.
Thanks in advance!
BTW I have cut chinese quadlock adapter and connected my Android HU directly to CID header.
I have combox installed, so quadlock's aux pin is not used
Others CAN and Power are present on CID connector
More over - CID connector has 30g signal, which is going down at 30 minutes of car sleep.
This makes me more confident in CAR battery life and I can remove and install HU in 2 minutes

Last edited by cybertiger; 01-15-2020 at 08:06 AM.. Reason: typos
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      01-15-2020, 08:05 AM   #2098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybertiger View Post
I can't see text on your transceivers, but in my version one is TJA1054 and other is missing. Could you check yours?
TJA1054 is limited to 125kbs. While NBT is 500kbs.
I believe, that original PCB and MCU firmware where implementing
CAN bridge, to filter out iDrive controller messages from traffic to CIC/CCC/NBT in Android mode.
In the schema like this:
BMW HU (quadlock)<=CAN1=> Android HU <=CAN2=> (quadlock adapter) CAR

And after some cloning (and mutation? ) manufacturers discarded this
Like I said in edit above, I can try to trace these lines but I have to pull the unit out and take it apart. These are the picture I took after receiving my unit.

As for transceivers I have attached better photo but still can't read the last character. Is it "c" or "o" ?

Edit: TJA1055T/c baud rate 125 kBd... so this is a slow one as well.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by RedErik; 01-15-2020 at 08:53 AM..
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      01-15-2020, 08:14 AM   #2099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kri View Post
The issue is that, even when you select Car BT at factory settings, the Android BT Module is still active and can cause connection issues Between your Smartphone and Car BT.
The new "BT" switch, does disable Android BT module completely to not interference with the Car BT anymore.



I attached the Splashimages 1-7 from Update 3.0.8 below.

How to install:

* Unzip and copy your desired IMG File to your thumbdrive into a folder called "OEM"
* Rename the File to splash.img
* let the Unit boot up completely and insert the Thumbdrive.
* Wait a Minute -> Remove the Thumbdrive -> Done




What Unit/ Original Unit do you have, and how is your Sound Connected, AUX or USB ?



where you able to signature your new apk file ?
If the File won`t work your unit does stuck at boot and shows no Start screen anymore.
You can send me the file , i`ll do some testing, i know how to unbrick the unit then

Kri
I have the Snapdragon unit and the FAT32 usb pendrive but not work yet
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      01-15-2020, 08:17 AM   #2100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Like I said in edit above, I can try to trace these lines but I have to pull the out out and take it apart. These are the picture I took after receiving my unit.

As for transceivers I have attached better photo but still can't read the last character. Is it "c" or "o" ?

Edit: TJA1055T/c baud rate 125 kBd... so this is a slow one as well.
Thanks!
1055 is advanced version on 1054. Could you post link to seller of HU?
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      01-15-2020, 08:33 AM   #2101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybertiger View Post
Thanks!
1055 is advanced version on 1054. Could you post link to seller of HU?
I got this unit from Andream.
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      01-15-2020, 09:55 AM   #2102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirjam View Post
1. Verify / try other CAN protocols under Factory settings.
2. Factory reset. You lose all your apps and settings, but this is recommended to do after upgrading.
3. Contact seller, wait for bugfix.
1, 2 and 3: Already did it.

Here is a video explaining the problem. Camera also comes on instead of touch apps if I go to original part by touching radio button for exemple and works like it should be, switching off when pdc button switchs off:



Cheers.
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      01-15-2020, 10:16 AM   #2103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10bmw10 View Post
Hello, I have a 2016 M3 and would like to buy one of these units. I would really like wireless carplay. After reading these pages, I think I want the 626 snapdragon version.

I live in the US if that matters.

Could you link me to the best one to buy?
I would recommend to look for a seller in the US to avoid issues...
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      01-15-2020, 10:27 AM   #2104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedErik View Post
Thanks Kri and yes, these are proper png files with transparency etc. I just quickly put them together in jpg to attache to this thread.
its becoming more weird.
I removed kswplauncher.apk from System/app, but the main Screen is still starting, even after a reboot

also i gathered a logcat when trying to install it:
Code:
W PackageManager: com.android.server.pm.PackageManagerException: Package com.wits.ksw has no signatures that match those in shared user android.uid.system; ignoring!
I also tried my modified cf.lumen package which was working flawless on my Android 7.1.1 test phone on the BMW unit, but it failed with the same message as ksw.

Kri
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      01-15-2020, 10:30 AM   #2105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirjam View Post
You connect only cable 4 (RCA Rear Cam) and 5 (Camera +12V) in your picture. I just did this, works perfect. The Chinese have done a really great job in making it easy for us to connect a backup camera. Couldn't be easier.
Morning It did not work. Connected the 12V and RCA and nothing happened.

For now I was able to plug the RCA into the TV in and to a positive wire on the car. When I press the MODE button on my radio I can get the input to show the rear camera on demand. I did the same for my front camera but the out is very very overexposed and unviewable. I'm not sure if it's too much voltage for the front camera :/
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      01-15-2020, 10:42 AM   #2106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kri View Post
I just read out the Bands support of my Snapdragon Unit.

It seems there is no Band 20 support.

Bands to Frequency can be seen here.

For what i saw Denmark is only some providers using Band 3/7/20.
Please check your providers and give feedback if they support one of those bands.

Kri
This website lists the operators and bands they use. Looks like in NL operators also use bands 3/7/20 (KPN and Vodafone).

https://www.frequencycheck.com/carriers
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      01-15-2020, 10:43 AM   #2107
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I have no picture with my rear view camera and I think it is because I use my rear view light to power my camera.

can I connect the camera directly via the battery or is the battery will get empty or the camera broken (due to continuous current)?
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      01-15-2020, 10:45 AM   #2108
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I just fell over a second ADB hack

With the following commands your can move the Topbar to background !
It is still available when you swipe down from top.

You need adb for this, root is not required as far as i noticed.

Disable Topbar.
Code:
adb shell settings put global policy_control immersive.full=*
Enable Topbar.
Code:
adb shell settings put global policy_control immersive.full=
Kri
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      01-15-2020, 11:37 AM   #2109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kri View Post
its becoming more weird.
I removed kswplauncher.apk from System/app, but the main Screen is still starting, even after a reboot

also i gathered a logcat when trying to install it:
Code:
W PackageManager: com.android.server.pm.PackageManagerException: Package com.wits.ksw has no signatures that match those in shared user android.uid.system; ignoring!
I also tried my modified cf.lumen package which was working flawless on my Android 7.1.1 test phone on the BMW unit, but it failed with the same message as ksw.

Kri
So that tells us 3 things:
1. "You know nothing John Snow!" And by you I mean we... I don't understand why after removing this app UI still works?!
2. In order to replace it we need either sign it with a correct key or disable signature verification with Lucky Patcher.
3. SharedUserId is a pain! Yes it allows apps to share sensitive data, but for what we are doing here it is a major obstacle.
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      01-15-2020, 11:40 AM   #2110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xanderl View Post
I have no picture with my rear view camera and I think it is because I use my rear view light to power my camera.

can I connect the camera directly via the battery or is the battery will get empty or the camera broken (due to continuous current)?
On the android screen side:
You only need to connect the yellow video cable to the yellow camera cable and the red +12v cable that go with the yellow video cable to the 12+ camera, not de DECT cable.

On the back of the car (near the camera):
You only need to connect the yellow video cable to the yellow camera cable and the red +12v cable that go with the yellow video cable to the 12+ camera. The ground (black cable) isn't neccesary.

Check this video:


Cheers.
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      01-15-2020, 12:35 PM   #2111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akirax View Post
On the android screen side:
You only need to connect the yellow video cable to the yellow camera cable and the red +12v cable that go with the yellow video cable to the 12+ camera, not de DECT cable.

On the back of the car (near the camera):
You only need to connect the yellow video cable to the yellow camera cable and the red +12v cable that go with the yellow video cable to the 12+ camera. The ground (black cable) isn't neccesary.

Check this video:


Cheers.
I dont get power from the +12v cable

And why is ground not necessesary?? 😬

And Does the camera work even before the Android system has started, as is normally the case with det? 😬
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      01-15-2020, 12:53 PM   #2112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xanderl View Post
I dont get power from the +12v cable

And why is ground not necessesary?? 😬

And Does the camera work even before the Android system has started, as is normally the case with det? 😬
+12 and ground at the camera side is only necesary if you connect to the rear lights, but our cars go with can bus and don't need that you connect to the rear lights.

The ground it's not neccesary apparently because use the ground of the yellow video cable.

It's explained in the video.

Cheers.
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