[VTMike]

Transfer case got the all-clear from the dealer, but they said that current owner should have the EGR cooler taken care of. Pick-up now hoped for for Monday. As implied, car is with the dealership and I'm affirming that the whole vehicle was inspected/cleared as part of this.

[LuckyB]

110k miles on my 16.
I put 90k of them on in 2 years.
No issues besides when my son put gas in it.
Egr was done by dealer.
The ac cuts out when it's rainy or humid. Been to the dealer 4 times and they can't figure it out

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by VTMike

I read the subscription piece about Carly yesterday....and my preference would be to buy something outright.

Any advice on specifics?
BimmerCode or BimmerLink?
OBD adapter specifics?

I DID reach out to BimmerCode yesterday and their advice was OBDLink MX+

Hopefully getting this tomorrow (assuming the dealership has finished the transfer case work). Super-excited for my son. He's worked hard with his undergrad to get the internships and has saved his money...feels like a fun celebration of that.

Nice, sounds like you're well informed. In the photo are the apps I use. BimmerCode is just for coding, but it is powerful. Not a must have for everyone but it's useful and fun (but for your son, you might want to hold off on it until he's familiar with the car).

OBD Fusion is a free diagnostics app and is useful for reading and clearing codes and seeing virtual gauges.

BimmerLink is also for diagnostics, but can also open and close an exhaust flap (if you're running a single exhaust tip, there won't be a flap), turn ASD on and off (not every car has this), register a battery (this alone is worth buying the app if you're in need of a new battery), regenerating DPF (diesel only) and seeing virtual gauges.

I have a WiFi OBD adapter that works well (V Gate Pro), but the Ethernet to lightning cable works 5-10x faster and is the most reliable connection. It's really a personal preference, a pro for wireless is you can have your phone anywhere in the car and don't have to worry about a cord getting in the way.

Good luck and let us know if you have questions. Congrats to you and your son!

[VTMike]

Quick update...
Picked up car from seller/dealer on Tuesday evening, including PPI through BMW dealer that did the warranty work. Check Engine came on while driving home. They nicked a vacuum line when installing the EGR cooler. Repaired Wednesday morning... Raised my blood pressure and made for a crazy-day for my wife, but not the end of the world.

We met our son to give him the car Wednesday afternoon. He's THRILLED. 40+ MPG driving back to school.
Bought him all-season BMW floor mats (didn't like the looks of the tan Weatherguard) and the wireless OBD plug-in. They'll be to him on Tuesday. Looks like OBD Fusion is now $10. Not sure whether to do that AND BimmerLink. I do see a number of free apps for the iPhone. Happy to hear advice on best-plan. Ultimately, I think that Bimerlink will make sense for us given the DPF functionality.


He picked up snow wheels (Pirelli Run-Flats on BMW rims ~ 4-series take-offs from a seller in the Boston area).

Next to-do will be to install his powered subwoofer. I've reached out to TechnicPNP re the harness folks talk about.

And he's getting it professionally detailed right at this moment by the top-rated detailer on greater Boston area (per Yelp). He's amazingly smitten with it all.

[cezar22]

161k. Am I the winner?

EDIT: Nope, dang y'all drive a lot.

[David328D]

Hello, I’ve been a reader in this forum and have to say thanks to everybody to bring a lot of input about this car, I bought my 2014 328D xDrive from the auction iaai around 3-4 months ago with 98.600k miles, now it have 102k.
Since I picked it up or had engine light code 29EB00 and the Dpf/Scr inyector got broken I hit a holepot getting in a parking lot, my first big mistake was ordering a Chinese replacement for the dpf/scr pump it cost me around $280 while OEM can be found for $600 online and $850 at dealer, so I installed at friend shop( he not bmw expert) and keep it running with it, to try to fix the 29EB00 code I tried replace the EGR Valve so read these should be replace each 50k miles, second big mistake here ordered a Chinese one for $90, OEM can be found for $280 online local dealer wanted around 300-350, 2 days after that valve installed I got the Drivetrain Malfunction message pop up and a lot more codes related with the EGR Valve, it keep driving normally, until 1-2 week later the car start making no boost, not going over 60-80HP and 180 Torque, I took it to dealer for the first time they replace EGR Cooler and Valve under recall, they said the egr valve was jammed, on the paperwork they said no more leaks found, also did the Joint Transfer case Recall, didn’t have to pay anything, picked up, driving smooth, check engine light came back after 20 miles same code 29EB00 I took it to dealer again they made diagnostic, apparently EGR Vacuum line has a hole and is leaking, funny after they said no leaks founded, and the dpf/scr inyector also trowing a code(I know why bc is Chinese replacement) they quote $1200 for the Dpf/scr pump and it’s harness and about $400-500 for the EGR Vacuum line, both for parts and labor, I declined, paid $175+tax for the diagnostic, ordered the parts myself $650 for the pump and harness and $30 for the vacuum line, I’ll see how much they charge for installation, or I’ll try a diesel mechanic here in New Jersey or try DIY, hopefully the check engine light goes away for long time after this repair I just got the parts.

- Also idk how also no body mentioned the issue with the tail light the ground wire melting the connector, dealer wanted $500 to fix it and they gave me the part number for the tail light and we know that is not the problem, I did that repair on my own and the help of YouTube and forums, the repair was cutting and extending the ground cable, then connecting it to a 14-16 gauge and hooking that to a piece of metal from the bulb housing, total I spent was $30 or less with the socket kit I bought since it was my first DIY repair they also quoted $106 to replace parking light bulb, obviously declined, bought one at autozone for $8 didn’t even need a tool to replace that .
- I Obviously knew wasn’t getting a no problem car since I bought it from the auction with no body damage other than little scratches.
- This is my 3rd car and my first bmw and first diesel, I honestly like it I drive it more in sport mode, I keep pushing it and drive around 80-90mph sometimes I know I shouldn’t push it that much after reading this thread I’ll try to keep it slow to the 70mph range, I’ll definitely gonna try to fix that check engine light and eventually sell it to put my money in other things I can’t afford having 2 cars right now, if you guys can send me any recommendations to do on my car, you guys recommend me replace the vacuum line and the dpf/ scr pump and it harness on my own or is it a hard job? Thanks to everybody again for the input
- Another thing I don’t get on my car is why the Sport Display have 0 to 240 on the Horsepower (while it should say up to 180) anyways it doesn’t go over 180hp and the torque says 0-320 while it should be up to 280 I think, I’ll try to attach pics tomorrow about this but if anybody has a idea of why let me know

[kdog_x]

Dang, I was just going to link to the replacement procedure for you on Newtis. I didn't realize that BMW forced them to shut down in October. Such a shame, wishing I would have saved some offline copies of procedures for torque specs and such. I think the same data can be pulled up through ISTA, but newtis was so easy to use and well organized.

@David328D You shouldn't have any problems pushing the car at 80-90 mph... other than state troopers anyways lol. Just realize that on the highway it will not shift into 8th gear if you are in sport mode, so your mileage will suffer a bit. I've driven mine hard and I'm at almost 170k now, other than the transfer case problem many others have had as well, it's holding up good, just keep up with basic maintenance.

As far as the SCR pump replacement, you should be able to DIY. Just remove a couple panels under the car, disconnect the electrical connector, and remove it from the exhaust. Not sure about the wiring, but it should be pretty easy to trace it back from the pump. The vacuum line should be pretty easy as well I would think, the EGR /cooler is right on top in the engine bay.

[haagm58]

Originally Posted by David328D

Hello, I’ve been a reader in this forum and have to say thanks to everybody to bring a lot of input about this car, I bought my 2014 328D xDrive from the auction iaai around 3-4 months ago with 98.600k miles, now it have 102k.
Since I picked it up or had engine light code 29EB00 and the Dpf/Scr inyector got broken I hit a holepot getting in a parking lot, my first big mistake was ordering a Chinese replacement for the dpf/scr pump it cost me around $280 while OEM can be found for $600 online and $850 at dealer, so I installed at friend shop( he not bmw expert) and keep it running with it, to try to fix the 29EB00 code I tried replace the EGR Valve so read these should be replace each 50k miles, second big mistake here ordered a Chinese one for $90, OEM can be found for $280 online local dealer wanted around 300-350, 2 days after that valve installed I got the Drivetrain Malfunction message pop up and a lot more codes related with the EGR Valve, it keep driving normally, until 1-2 week later the car start making no boost, not going over 60-80HP and 180 Torque, I took it to dealer for the first time they replace EGR Cooler and Valve under recall, they said the egr valve was jammed, on the paperwork they said no more leaks found, also did the Joint Transfer case Recall, didn’t have to pay anything, picked up, driving smooth, check engine light came back after 20 miles same code 29EB00 I took it to dealer again they made diagnostic, apparently EGR Vacuum line has a hole and is leaking, funny after they said no leaks founded, and the dpf/scr inyector also trowing a code(I know why bc is Chinese replacement) they quote $1200 for the Dpf/scr pump and it’s harness and about $400-500 for the EGR Vacuum line, both for parts and labor, I declined, paid $175+tax for the diagnostic, ordered the parts myself $650 for the pump and harness and $30 for the vacuum line, I’ll see how much they charge for installation, or I’ll try a diesel mechanic here in New Jersey or try DIY, hopefully the check engine light goes away for long time after this repair I just got the parts.

- Also idk how also no body mentioned the issue with the tail light the ground wire melting the connector, dealer wanted $500 to fix it and they gave me the part number for the tail light and we know that is not the problem, I did that repair on my own and the help of YouTube and forums, the repair was cutting and extending the ground cable, then connecting it to a 14-16 gauge and hooking that to a piece of metal from the bulb housing, total I spent was $30 or less with the socket kit I bought since it was my first DIY repair they also quoted $106 to replace parking light bulb, obviously declined, bought one at autozone for $8 didn’t even need a tool to replace that .
- I Obviously knew wasn’t getting a no problem car since I bought it from the auction with no body damage other than little scratches.
- This is my 3rd car and my first bmw and first diesel, I honestly like it I drive it more in sport mode, I keep pushing it and drive around 80-90mph sometimes I know I shouldn’t push it that much after reading this thread I’ll try to keep it slow to the 70mph range, I’ll definitely gonna try to fix that check engine light and eventually sell it to put my money in other things I can’t afford having 2 cars right now, if you guys can send me any recommendations to do on my car, you guys recommend me replace the vacuum line and the dpf/ scr pump and it harness on my own or is it a hard job? Thanks to everybody again for the input
- Another thing I don’t get on my car is why the Sport Display have 0 to 240 on the Horsepower (while it should say up to 180) anyways it doesn’t go over 180hp and the torque says 0-320 while it should be up to 280 I think, I’ll try to attach pics tomorrow about this but if anybody has a idea of why let me know

Welcome to the world of BMW diesels!

Regarding the sport display, those are only gauges and the maximum isn't representative of the max torque or power of your engine. It's similar to the speedometer, your car won't actually reach the max speed displayed.

[mrgolf100]

Just passed 220k. i can't get myself replace this thing but i sure wish there was a 2021 alternative Diesel. looks like it's the end of an era after this one dies.

I may go the complete other direction next time. i can't get my eyes off the Audi RS3...

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Just passed 220k. i can't get myself replace this thing but i sure wish there was a 2021 alternative Diesel. looks like it's the end of an era after this one dies.

I may go the complete other direction next time. i can't get my eyes off the Audi RS3...

I hope you run this forever! You are like a 328d case study .

220k on the original transmission fluid is impressive as well.

[mrgolf100]

Thank you! I just wanted to see if this stuff really was lifetime. Never did an oil change earlier than a 9k interval either. Truth is, the stuff must actually be that good.

I think it's possible during a transfer case replacement that they drained (not flushed) the transmission fluid at some point around 100k.

Would that make any sense?

[Gold1member]

2014 328D RWD 251,235 miles.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by Gold1member

2014 328D RWD 251,235 miles.

Very nice! You barely have mr. golf beat! What kind of repairs/maintenance have you done to yours?

[mrgolf100]

I feel like i lost something special here lol. Glad to see they keep going and now i'm planning to try and catch up but you're about a year ahead of me at my current pace. Keep us posted!

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

I feel like i lost something special here lol. Glad to see they keep going and now i'm planning to try and catch up but you're about a year ahead of me at my current pace. Keep us posted!

Haha, no joke on dethroned! Now you cant sell!

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Thank you! I just wanted to see if this stuff really was lifetime. Never did an oil change earlier than a 9k interval either. Truth is, the stuff must actually be that good.

I think it's possible during a transfer case replacement that they drained (not flushed) the transmission fluid at some point around 100k.

Would that make any sense?

Though they could have done so anyways, There's no need to drain the transmission fluid to replace the transfer case. If there wasn't 6 quarts of fluid and a transmission pan on the receipt it sounds like you're still rolling the original fluid. I'll stick to the 60k interval on mine, but I'm with you on the oil changes, 9-10k intervals are just fine with all the highway driving I do.

[mrgolf100]

Although i can't recall on the receipts i think they mentioned a trans drain probably because i was having so many issues for awhile. Not sure though. It still shifts as smooth as ever, at least i can't feel a difference...I assume no one woudl recommend i do it now though, right?

[gbinckes]

Hey all, new to the forums, just bought a 2015 328d Xdrive non-M wagon, 136k miles. Having a blast driving, so that number is going up daily. I am a big fan of preventative maintenance so I am going to be installing a catch can this weekend (thanks for the video's Farkle) looking forward to learning a lot about these cars and doing some mods to give it a little more oomph. Thanks for all the great information and running a very helpful forum!

- Garet

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by gbinckes

Hey all, new to the forums, just bought a 2015 328d Xdrive non-M wagon, 136k miles. Having a blast driving, so that number is going up daily. I am a big fan of preventative maintenance so I am going to be installing a catch can this weekend (thanks for the video's Farkle) looking forward to learning a lot about these cars and doing some mods to give it a little more oomph. Thanks for all the great information and running a very helpful forum!

- Garet

Welcome Garet! Wagons are always real cool, what color?

These can get a lot more oomph, and just from tuning, to really wake it up.

[Gold1member]

Originally Posted by n00bkiller944

Very nice! You barely have mr. golf beat! What kind of repairs/maintenance have you done to yours?

So far I have replace the SCR feed line, injector and also did a DEF bake to clean it out. Other than that normal maintenance.

[gbinckes]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Welcome Garet! Wagons are always real cool, what color?

These can get a lot more oomph, and just from tuning, to really wake it up.

Hello Enabled! I have a "luxury line" white (Mineral White Metallic to be exact) with Leather Dakota Saddle Brown (I call it peanut butter) interior with the Burled Walnut Trim with Inlay option. Whoever ordered it originally went for the swanky option. I will take some pics when after I get it washed. I wasn't expecting to buy a BMW wagon even though I always wanted one, but my son found this online and knew it had everything I wanted so we decided to get it. I am very happy with it so far, just installed an oil catch can as I eventually want a tune. This forum has already provided a ton of info on what works for these N47 engines and what doesn't for after market mods, so really appreciate the content. I am hoping to start autocrossing again in May-ish, will post pics/comments when the time comes. Thanks again for the warm welcome!

- Garet

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by gbinckes

Hello Enabled! I have a "luxury line" white (Mineral White Metallic to be exact) with Leather Dakota Saddle Brown (I call it peanut butter) interior with the Burled Walnut Trim with Inlay option. Whoever ordered it originally went for the swanky option. I will take some pics when after I get it washed. I wasn't expecting to buy a BMW wagon even though I always wanted one, but my son found this online and knew it had everything I wanted so we decided to get it. I am very happy with it so far, just installed an oil catch can as I eventually want a tune. This forum has already provided a ton of info on what works for these N47 engines and what doesn't for after market mods, so really appreciate the content. I am hoping to start autocrossing again in May-ish, will post pics/comments when the time comes. Thanks again for the warm welcome!

- Garet

Nice!

Mine is Mineral Grey with the Saddle Brown Dakota Leather and black secondary color. Luxury Line, so it has the same wood trim as yours.

I'm excited to retrofit a pristine pair of Saddle Brown leather sports package seats into it, but if I ever get to it.