10-24-2020, 03:32 PM | #23 |
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Your biggest expense will be tune, and the catted downpipe as you want to not have to deal with smog and visual inspection. if you don't need smog, it'll be quite a bit cheaper.
Make sure this fits but if it does then buy this: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...tted-downpipe/ Buy the bm3 tune with all maps. Should keep you happy for a while. You'll never have to buy another tune again for the most part. If you want to run stage 2, you will need an intercooler. If you run the stage 2 tune without an intercooler, YOU WILL HEAT SOAK after the car warms up. I learned the hard way. G-Plus intercooler will work for your needs, runs around $220 and is cheaper if you even buy it used (self-plug but I'm selling mine soon to go big turbo). G-Plus intercooler fits like stock (the one I have anyway) and it takes the same effort to install as the small OEM one. fits charge pipes with ease. After that comes supporting mods (charge pipe and boost pipe/ turbo inlet/ cold air intake/cat-back exhaust/diverter valve upgrade). You can call yourself FBO after that. Last edited by sqwinny; 10-24-2020 at 03:41 PM.. |
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10-24-2020, 03:54 PM | #25 | |
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10-24-2020, 04:05 PM | #26 | |
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10-24-2020, 04:18 PM | #27 | |
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off topic, but I can't wait to see how your engine turns out |
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10-24-2020, 05:05 PM | #28 |
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So to clarify, can we all agree that a tune, FMIC and down pipe is the way to go? And I can add a charge pipe/ boost pipe/ etc after that? If so, I am now stuck between BM3 and JB4. The JB4 fits my budget alot better but I hear BM3 is a better tune...
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10-24-2020, 06:13 PM | #29 | |
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10-24-2020, 06:36 PM | #30 | |
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10-24-2020, 07:24 PM | #31 | ||
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10-25-2020, 12:33 PM | #32 |
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timing chain is more likely to fail on N20s and cause extra damage. He is insinuating that despite spending money for performance mods, your timing chain might cause more damage in repairs / replacement than you would expect.
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10-25-2020, 12:35 PM | #33 |
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10-25-2020, 12:57 PM | #34 | |
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10-25-2020, 12:59 PM | #35 |
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BM3 it is then. Will start with stage 1 on 93 with only my intake, muffler delete and a charge pipe for safety and then eventually go FBO and stage 2. For now, I think BM3 and charge pipe is a perfect fit for my timing at hand as well as my budget!
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10-25-2020, 01:30 PM | #36 | |
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https://x-ph.com/f-chassis-n20-n26-b...ue-combo-deal/ |
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10-25-2020, 08:03 PM | #37 | ||
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10-25-2020, 08:39 PM | #38 |
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10-26-2020, 09:07 AM | #39 |
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Surprisingly enough, there isn't anymore. The prices on x-ph have changed a bit due to a change in vendors for parts too. The catted downpipe is the reason I posted my link above. For the catted downpipe, it appears these are the following options:
Supersprint catted downpipe $1644 aFe catted downpipe $952 ER raceworks (built to order) $945 Wagner tuning (if you can find, it's discontinued) $790 Turner motorsport (just released theirs) $385 |
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10-26-2020, 07:04 PM | #40 | |
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10-26-2020, 08:03 PM | #41 |
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Go for it. For all you know you'll have happy with a stage 1 tune and that's it. It changes the car that much.
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MY13: TTE400 Stage 2 turbo, Spec Single Mass flywheel + Stage 3+ Clutch, FTP V2 Turbo Inlet, Evolution Racewerks Charge pipe + Boost pipe + Intercooler, Turbosmart Recirculating Diverter Valve, aFE grill scoop + aFE Magnum Force Cold Air Intake, B58 coil retrofit, eBay Downpipe, Active Autowerke muffler, DW400 LPFP, B58TU HPFP, M5 s63TU injectors, Bimmermilvs, e80 tune by Navardi Tuned. 380 whp/360 wheel torque stock block
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10-26-2020, 08:16 PM | #42 |
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Sounds good to me. Will do a tune and charge pipe and turbo inlet pipe and will update this thread once i do it. Should only be a couple weeks, waiting on my new wheels to get here so i can sell the others and use the cash on performance. No-loss no-gain type of deal
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10-27-2020, 08:47 AM | #44 |
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Just read through this. Let me give you my thoughts. I'm in NC too.....catless downpipe, you will fail inspection. High flow catted downpipe, you will still fail inspection. NC is tough on that. There's ways around it, but it's much more complicated. I have a FMIC, and BM3 stage 1. Makes a big difference and i'm satisfied. Get your timing chain inspected before you do all this. It's probably fine, but just make sure. I haven't had mine replaced and don't plan on it. If it breaks it breaks.
Charge pipe would be last on the list to upgrade. N20 charge pipes don't break like that.....that's an N55 problem. You can do it for peace of mind, but i'd save my money and invest it elsewhere. It's like the timing chain, not necessary unless there's a problem. Aim for 1 step colder plugs, and a performance exhaust or muffler delete...depending on how loud you want things. Don't waste money on an intake unless you just like the sound. $2-300 for minimal HP gains and "whoosh" is probably not the best move. I dk much about the diverter valve. I wanted to try it but based on how much of a pain it seems to install, im good lol. Cost to benefit ratio doesn't seem all that beneficial to me. 300 to the wheels is not easy in an N20, it's just not really made for that, but 260-280 is achievable and still pretty fun. A stage 1 tune and an intercooler are probably your best bets to start out. |
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