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      04-19-2020, 07:05 PM   #1
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hello you guys I didn't know where to put this so I just went ahead and put it here so I did a lot of research on this problem but I don't seem to come down to the solution from the rest of the people

Any ways so about 2 days ago I came across this problem on a cold start in the morning never seen this before ever

I checked the codes and I had a lot of codes I think it was like nine of them I notice that my engine start button stays on all the time weather I leave my keys inside far from the car the light just won't turn off
Does any one know the solution to this or have a clue what this can be or maybe they ran through this problem too

This was really random to me

The battery is fairly new not older than 2 years

I check the voltage of the battery and it seems to be fine 12.4 with ignition in and while car in is obviously like 14.4 plus

Once I turn in the car after 5 seconds the message goes away on the I drive screen here are some codes I am seeing

Another thing I am noticing is that after 10 min or so my comfort access stops working in order to unlock my car I have to push the actual key button to unlock it but I believe that's just from the "ibs" making everything shut down so it won't drain the battery or am I wrong ?
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      04-19-2020, 07:07 PM   #2
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      04-20-2020, 03:03 AM   #3
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anyone have a clue


or if it is the cluster can i purchase a used cluster im assuming is not a plug n play but is it possible ?

my friend thats a bmw mechanic is saying is my ibs cable on the battery so i went ahead and ordered it but i cleared all codes and i keep getting only 2 codes and is the cluster code circuit shortage something like that and obviously the increased battery discharge while stopped
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      04-20-2020, 05:49 AM   #4
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If the battery is only two years old, then 'maybe' your driving patterns in recent days have been such that you're draining more than supplying the battery. Starting takes up a lot of power, so if you've been driving a mile to the store and back once a week for that last few weeks...lots of short trips...it 'could' 'just' be that.

Batteries do go bad, not usually in 2 years...but I suppose certain use patterns might hurt them more than others. Low odds it's bad, I think. Doublecheck all connections to it...under the + terminal under the hood...ground in the trunk. If you've scraped anything recently underneath and lost your underskirt, you might have damaged a ground? Just guessing. Sounds like battery is bad...either temporarily or permanently. Swap another in from a covid-free friend's car.

You are double-pressing the start/stop button to turn the car off, though, right? If not, I think the car stays on 16 mins. or so. You don't have things plugged in charging all over, I presume?
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      04-20-2020, 11:29 AM   #5
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thankyou for the response so yes i have been driving the car less than usual due to this whole world pandemic but i mean the first day i saw this message i drop up to the mountains for some cool back rodes and just have a nice cruise
i drove for about 2 hours straight and came home turned it off 30 min later turn on the car same message again.
two nights ago i left it connected to a bmw trickle charger that i have and left it all over night and i woke up comfort access wouldnt work so i figured again that im having the same issue i can only unlock it with my key fob after the car sleeps and anyways that morning i still got the same message even tho i had the trickle charger connected all night ?

what i do notice on alll night is the start engine button light stays on


and yeah i dont have nothing plugged in no dash cam no iphone chargers etc. nothing



Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxdmax View Post
If the battery is only two years old, then 'maybe' your driving patterns in recent days have been such that you're draining more than supplying the battery. Starting takes up a lot of power, so if you've been driving a mile to the store and back once a week for that last few weeks...lots of short trips...it 'could' 'just' be that.

Batteries do go bad, not usually in 2 years...but I suppose certain use patterns might hurt them more than others. Low odds it's bad, I think. Doublecheck all connections to it...under the + terminal under the hood...ground in the trunk. If you've scraped anything recently underneath and lost your underskirt, you might have damaged a ground? Just guessing. Sounds like battery is bad...either temporarily or permanently. Swap another in from a covid-free friend's car.

You are double-pressing the start/stop button to turn the car off, though, right? If not, I think the car stays on 16 mins. or so. You don't have things plugged in charging all over, I presume?
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      04-20-2020, 01:43 PM   #6
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I read a post about comfort access failing and waking up the car...draining the battery. I wonder if maybe something like car wax or gunk got on the CA area and it's constantly waking itself up?

I can't remember when I read that, but it was recently, so maybe you can find it--there might have been a service bulletin about it. Maybe check the TIS too.
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      04-20-2020, 02:09 PM   #7
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Do you have a subwoofer or aftermarket amp?
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      04-20-2020, 02:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxdmax View Post
I read a post about comfort access failing and waking up the car...draining the battery. I wonder if maybe something like car wax or gunk got on the CA area and it's constantly waking itself up?

I can't remember when I read that, but it was recently, so maybe you can find it--there might have been a service bulletin about it. Maybe check the TIS too.
Hmmmm now that you mention this I did wax the car a couple of days ago

Super interesting I did wipe it down really good
You think if I wash the car with a pressure washer it will help ?
If this is the issue

My friend that is a bmw mechanic is saying he is almost sure is just the negative cable with the ibs
So I just went ahead and ordered it

I left the trickle charger in all night again my charger says the green light indicating that battery is 100% full
I turn on the car same error code even tho the battery is 100% at like 12.7 when I checked the voltage

I disconnected the charger about 3 hours ago or maybe even more and locked the car and the battery still says 12.6 12.5 it doesn't move from there


But obviously the car still says that same error
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      04-20-2020, 04:00 PM   #9
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Do you have a subwoofer or aftermarket amp?
No I do not it is 100% stock

No extra subwoofer or amp or none of that I have Harmon kardon system and that sounds amazing lol
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      04-21-2020, 02:13 AM   #10
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anyone else have a clue or an idea what this can be?

today i let my car charge all night again with the trickle charger before i started the car my battery was at 12.70v and i still got the error for increased battery discharge i mean i dont get why it would say that if the battery is at 12.70 i let the car sit for about 4 or 5 hours and it only dropped to 12.52-12.49 i mean isnt that still good ??



just to get an idea i chekced my 2019 honda accord and that thing was at 11.6 and that thing started right up no problem no issues at all lol
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      04-21-2020, 06:31 AM   #11
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I don't know how comfort access senses a touch, but it couldn't hurt for you to try to clean off the handle where you waxed it.

Usually things aren't that simple, but hope it's just something like this. Check the grooves of the handle...maybe wax got stuck in them--use toothpick or something...and fingers crossed.

...also...tl;dr all over again, but does your fob have a new battery...have you tried another fob if you have one?

...and have you tried to synchronize your fob with the car again. (It's in the manual)

Good luck.
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      04-21-2020, 04:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxdmax View Post
I don't know how comfort access senses a touch, but it couldn't hurt for you to try to clean off the handle where you waxed it.

Usually things aren't that simple, but hope it's just something like this. Check the grooves of the handle...maybe wax got stuck in them--use toothpick or something...and fingers crossed.

...also...tl;dr all over again, but does your fob have a new battery...have you tried another fob if you have one?

...and have you tried to synchronize your fob with the car again. (It's in the manual)

Good luck.
so yesterday i cleaned the door handles and brush them off and yes there was some wax in there so i didnt mind cleaning them but unfourtanly it didnt help the situation


and yeah i asked my self the same thing and i went ahead and purchased a brandnew battery for my keyfob and that didnt do anything.


and i only have one key fob i mean the keyfob seems to be working fine i can lock and unlock my phone no problem the only time where my comfort access doesnt work is when the car parks after 20 min or so then thats when the CA doesnt work so i have to actually push the unlock button on my keyfob and once i do that seems like the car wakes back up and my CA starts working again normally
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      04-24-2020, 09:05 PM   #13
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Anyone

I need help lol

So today I replaced the ibs and Nothing :
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      05-01-2020, 01:10 AM   #14
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So I basically got played today from a local shop here in Pasadena ca

Called Bimmer Phd

I should of known better but oh well

The guys from there told me they where sure it was my battery and I bought the battery from them OEM brand new battery 450 installed and registered my dumb ass just wanted to get the problem fixed and he kept saying he was sure

Something in my head kept telling me it wasn't the battery cuz the battery checked out perfect

Any ways so the battery didn't fix the problem they wanted me to continue to move forward with diagnostic checks and I said no and I picked up my car came home and disconnected my cluster and boom my car finally fell asleep
Within 20 min the car engine start button was off and everything was turned off in the car

So now I need to replace the cluster but my dumb ass payed this shop 450 FOR NOTHING.!!

does anyone know of anyone that repair clusters or know how to code clusters etc.
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      05-01-2020, 04:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarortiz23 View Post
So I basically got played today from a local shop here in Pasadena ca

Called Bimmer Phd

I should of known better but oh well

The guys from there told me they where sure it was my battery and I bought the battery from them OEM brand new battery 450 installed and registered my dumb ass just wanted to get the problem fixed and he kept saying he was sure

Something in my head kept telling me it wasn't the battery cuz the battery checked out perfect

Any ways so the battery didn't fix the problem they wanted me to continue to move forward with diagnostic checks and I said no and I picked up my car came home and disconnected my cluster and boom my car finally fell asleep
Within 20 min the car engine start button was off and everything was turned off in the car

So now I need to replace the cluster but my dumb ass payed this shop 450 FOR NOTHING.!!

does anyone know of anyone that repair clusters or know how to code clusters etc.
Why look at the battery, when it is clear you have a battery "drain" caused by something adrift in some component, or the energy control systems.

Think of it logically, the battery is charged and pretty much staying charged, but the check message is trigged to show you are not having a proper (or fault free) shut down.

You mention the comfort access not functioning correctly, therefore that is a suspect. You read codes with terminal 30B & 30F, a code with a short circuit reference. All leading to a control issue. Front module?

I'm not an auto electrician, you need someone who is. Shame you got distracted to thinking the battery was suspect. The times I've come across users who have been told "it's your battery mate", had a new battery to find quite quickly it was not the cause of some electrical or electronics glitch, or failure.

BTW, are you finding this message with a locked car, where full sleep mode is guaranteed, if all is functioning correctly?
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      05-01-2020, 07:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
You mention the comfort access not functioning correctly, therefore that is a suspect.
Major suspect, because in order to function CA is always running. FWIW to see if the battery won't hold a charge first charge it fully, then disconnect the negative terminal. Check the voltage at the battery terminals with a DMM. Leave it overnight. Check the voltage at the terminals again, before attaching the negative terminal. If the voltage dropped more than maybe a half volt overnight then the battery may be a problem. If not it's fine.

The battery drain while idled message usually doesn't indicate a battery problem. It means that the car is drawing more current than the alternator is providing, so what you look for is possible reasons for that.
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      05-01-2020, 10:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarortiz23 View Post
So I basically got played today from a local shop here in Pasadena ca

Called Bimmer Phd

I should of known better but oh well

The guys from there told me they where sure it was my battery and I bought the battery from them OEM brand new battery 450 installed and registered my dumb ass just wanted to get the problem fixed and he kept saying he was sure

Something in my head kept telling me it wasn't the battery cuz the battery checked out perfect

Any ways so the battery didn't fix the problem they wanted me to continue to move forward with diagnostic checks and I said no and I picked up my car came home and disconnected my cluster and boom my car finally fell asleep
Within 20 min the car engine start button was off and everything was turned off in the car

So now I need to replace the cluster but my dumb ass payed this shop 450 FOR NOTHING.!!

does anyone know of anyone that repair clusters or know how to code clusters etc.
Why look at the battery, when it is clear you have a battery "drain" caused by something adrift in some component, or the energy control systems.

Think of it logically, the battery is charged and pretty much staying charged, but the check message is trigged to show you are not having a proper (or fault free) shut down.

You mention the comfort access not functioning correctly, therefore that is a suspect. You read codes with terminal 30B & 30F, a code with a short circuit reference. All leading to a control issue. Front module?

I'm not an auto electrician, you need someone who is. Shame you got distracted to thinking the battery was suspect. The times I've come across users who have been told "it's your battery mate", had a new battery to find quite quickly it was not the cause of some electrical or electronics glitch, or failure.

BTW, are you finding this message with a locked car, where full sleep mode is guaranteed, if all is functioning correctly?
Yeah man I have been kicking my ass about this ever since this happen I should of known better in so mad at my self because I tested my battery like 100 times and all 100 times I kept seeing with my own eyes that my battery was in great shape

But I mean hey I'm not a mechanic and I had 3 mechanics tell me is not your instrument cluster

Then this mechanic telling me hey look it's your battery the battery will solve all your problems

Smh


any ways my earning message comes on on my I drive screen and on my cluster when I first turn on my car every time I let my car go to sleep after 20 min or so

The start stop engine button light stays on 24/7


Yesterday I disconnected the instrument cluster my self and 10 15 min later the start stop button light turned off and the car fell asleep completely

So I'm assuming there is my problem

There has to be a short in my cluster or something is bad in my cluster and it is causing my car not to go to sleep

I left my instrument cluster disconnected all night and right now I'm going to connected it again and see what happens
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      05-01-2020, 10:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
You mention the comfort access not functioning correctly, therefore that is a suspect.
Major suspect, because in order to function CA is always running. FWIW to see if the battery won't hold a charge first charge it fully, then disconnect the negative terminal. Check the voltage at the battery terminals with a DMM. Leave it overnight. Check the voltage at the terminals again, before attaching the negative terminal. If the voltage dropped more than maybe a half volt overnight then the battery may be a problem. If not it's fine.

The battery drain while idled message usually doesn't indicate a battery problem. It means that the car is drawing more current than the alternator is providing, so what you look for is possible reasons for that.
Yeah that's not my problem if you read all my threads

My car only says this message ONLY when the car sits for 20 min plus


I have pictures up in the thread

Increased battery discharge while stop

Once I turn on my car 2 3 seconds later my message goes away immediately

And I won't see it again intill I I park my car and let it sit for over 20 min
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      05-02-2020, 06:03 AM   #19
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OP, sorry to ask, but are you pressing the start/stop button twice to shut the car off? You need to with mine.

If you don't, and you keep the radio/fan/etc. on, I could see you pulling a lot of power out.

Among other sources of a drain, if it's not the CA...I know the fsr for the blower motor used to drain e46's batteries...I once had my glovebox light stay on because the latch was loose...trunk lights can stay on if the sensor doesn't register it as closed.

Good luck!
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      05-02-2020, 12:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxdmax View Post
OP, sorry to ask, but are you pressing the start/stop button twice to shut the car off? You need to with mine.

If you don't, and you keep the radio/fan/etc. on, I could see you pulling a lot of power out.

Among other sources of a drain, if it's not the CA...I know the fsr for the blower motor used to drain e46's batteries...I once had my glovebox light stay on because the latch was loose...trunk lights can stay on if the sensor doesn't register it as closed.

Good luck!
Yeah I do hit the button twice
If I only hit it once everything stays on lol

Radio everything so yeah every time I hit it twice

So the conclusion to all of this if I'm not mistaken

Is my cluster
I don't seem to find another problem
I can't just keep buying parts and putting in my car
shops don't really diagnose correctly man lol

One shop made me change my battery smh

any ways I need some one that can help me code the retrofit cluster
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      05-02-2020, 01:57 PM   #21
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I honestly think the cluster is usually a pretty solid thing the life of a car, so my bet would be elsewhere.

Did you check the voltage and it was stable overnight with the cluster disconnected?

My start stop button goes off about 5 secs. after I close the door if I don't lock it in my garage.

Have you made sure you don't have anything charging? I found a penny in the bottom of my cig lighter (blew the fuse)...maybe you have something stuck in one of your chargers --in trunk/under glovebox?

You button stays lit if you lock the car?

Do you have comfort ventilation on? Maybe turn off all the lighting you can. Look into trunk through the skipass to make sure the lights are off there...though that wouldn't draw so much power the car would worry about it right away.

Have you monitored voltage through the cluster to see if maybe your alt is getting wonky?

Sorry...I'm corona bored and guessing a lot as I'm skeptical the cluster is the issue (not that it couldn't be.)
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      05-02-2020, 03:31 PM   #22
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this is what i found

https://diag.net/msg/m3o33zxy57kh537gzeeaaluv8o



and thats the same code i get






Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaxdmax View Post
I honestly think the cluster is usually a pretty solid thing the life of a car, so my bet would be elsewhere.

Did you check the voltage and it was stable overnight with the cluster disconnected?

My start stop button goes off about 5 secs. after I close the door if I don't lock it in my garage.

Have you made sure you don't have anything charging? I found a penny in the bottom of my cig lighter (blew the fuse)...maybe you have something stuck in one of your chargers --in trunk/under glovebox?

You button stays lit if you lock the car?

Do you have comfort ventilation on? Maybe turn off all the lighting you can. Look into trunk through the skipass to make sure the lights are off there...though that wouldn't draw so much power the car would worry about it right away.

Have you monitored voltage through the cluster to see if maybe your alt is getting wonky?

Sorry...I'm corona bored and guessing a lot as I'm skeptical the cluster is the issue (not that it couldn't be.)
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