05-16-2020, 05:28 AM | #1 |
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A/C "recalibrating" every day
Each time I start the car the AC light flashes and takes a couple if minutes at idle to recalinrate. Once calibrated the air is ice cold but every day? The system was pressure tested and no leaks. What's my next area to check?
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06-03-2020, 04:33 AM | #2 |
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Anyone have any input? Again, AC recalibrates each morning I start her. AC is working fine but sitting still for 2 minutes everytime I get in the car is becoming a nuisance.
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06-03-2020, 07:24 AM | #3 |
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06-03-2020, 08:54 AM | #4 |
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I wonder if A/C is setting a code? I think ISTA should be able to give you BMW specific code, since that is not a normal occurrence. My A/C light never blinks, always remembers settings from last time. It does take a few minutes before A/C blows hard as car waits for freon to start flowing before blasting the car with high air flow. But the light never blinks for me. Someone on another forum was able to pull BMW specific code when this happened to them, would be good place to start to see what is wrong.
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06-03-2020, 11:21 AM | #5 |
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At each startup the green AC light blinks for approx. 2min then goes solid. If I apply throttle the light stays off until I drop to idle again, where the blinking and calibration continues. Was just recharged and noted there was no leak. Blows cold during and after calibration (blinking green light). Blows hot if Im impatient and take off before calibration completes.
I have no ISTA., just ESYS |
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06-03-2020, 12:27 PM | #7 | |
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06-03-2020, 02:07 PM | #9 |
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06-03-2020, 02:15 PM | #10 |
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Good question. They pressure tested it for some time and it came back fine. It's a '14 and has never had an AC recharge. Perhaps it lost some over the past 100,000 miles but not in a noticeable leak way.
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06-04-2020, 07:07 PM | #12 |
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Issue is they need to load enough refrigerant to hit the desired cycled pressure. If they just "put 3 pounds in" then you have no clue what it is actually in the system. And do what weehe126 said above.
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06-05-2020, 08:15 AM | #13 | |
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Thx fellas. |
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06-05-2020, 10:26 AM | #14 | |
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They apparently knew they did a half ass job and let you take the car anyway? They need more time to do it right? And you want to give them another try? You need a new place to do it right. |
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06-05-2020, 01:08 PM | #15 |
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I'm with paul e, years ago (R12 days) we used to just buy the cans of freon at the auto store, and "top up" the vehicles/tractors on the farm that weren't blowing cold. You run into situations where more is worse, and then it still didn't blow cold due to it freezing up.
We bought a set of gauges that monitors the high side and low side pressures, which immediately gives you the indication on how much is the right amount. If you are going to a shop that is just dumping in can off the cuff, and not using gauges, I'd run, not walk away from them. |
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07-17-2020, 01:59 PM | #16 |
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Brought it to the dealer. Ended up being a "communication error" with the IHKA. Simple coding and the AC is good. I'd loved to have spoken with them more about it but they also told me I'm getting a new transfer case under warranty and that had me giddy like a school boy.
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12-20-2020, 04:32 PM | #18 | |
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12-22-2020, 08:41 PM | #19 |
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Shortly after the dealer said it was a "communication error" the problem came back. I ended up replacing the IHKA ECU and problem hasn't reappeared in months. Instead the defroster light now wouldn't go out but atleast my AC worked. I didn't know how to code the newer ECU but luckily, or maybe just coincidentally, when I hooked up Bimmercode I was able to restore the saved info from my old ECU on to my newer one. Now all lights off and all working properly.
Hope this helps. |
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