[JaredG_F30]

Whay is the TMAP swap reccomended?

Originally Posted by raichean

that is correct.. there isn't a 3.5 or 4 bar TMAP for the N55, but you can use the sensors from other motors. Part number was confirmed by AA, plus ECS Tuning (where I got it) lists it as the upgrade for the N55 with higher turbos.

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

Whay is the TMAP swap reccomended?

I got the guidance that the factory TMAP has psi limits around 20-22, and depending on how hard you push your turbo, you could be approaching those limits. Also, including a higher turbo, age/miles on the car as well. So at 52k and approaching 20lbs from the turbo, the change out just makes sense.

Noticed in your sig as well.. my GFB DV+ arrives TODAY! 8)

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by jh_f30

Also, one potential "leg-up" BM3 and MHD seem to have is built-in logging capabilities. Any plans of implementing that with the Simon3? I think that the offer of 4 custom maps included in your package is great, and part of the reason I went with AA, but without direct logging capabilities, it makes it kind of moot unless I can get onto a dyno to do some logged runs (added cost). Idk, these are just my thoughts as someone new to the tuning realm. Am I wrong?

I think there is a cable AA has in addition to the Simon cable that will allow you to log. I cannot remember what it costs but I am getting it for logging purposes. Wither Nic/Vic cannot remember the name or David I think told me to mention that to Mike of Extreme if I wanted to purchase it.

[dr.roro]

20 lbs boost seems really high. Is that what the AA stage 2 is pushing? Doesn't the HPFP start becoming iffy before then?

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by raichean

As part of the suggestions from AA as my turbo approaches 20psi, is the recommendation to swap out the TMAP 3.0bar stock sensor for a 3.5 or higher.

I wanted to share the recommendations and the DIY, though for this crowd, the DIY really isn't needed.. crazy simple.

Good stuff my man! lLink for the Map sensor!
How does she run compared to Active 8?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by ceedawg

I think there is a cable AA has in addition to the Simon cable that will allow you to log. I cannot remember what it costs but I am getting it for logging purposes. Wither Nic/Vic cannot remember the name or David I think told me to mention that to Mike of Extreme if I wanted to purchase it.

I believe you are talking about the Simon 2

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by ceedawg

Good stuff my man! lLink for the Map sensor!
How does she run compared to Active 8?

There is a link in the video description, for the part from ECS Tuning. She runs REALLY smoothly.. I had a noticeable surge at about 2600rpm or so with the Active 8, and now the power curve feels absolutely linear. My dyno will be on the 31st.

[JaredG_F30]

20-22 PSI on stock turbo and fueling?

Originally Posted by raichean

I got the guidance that the factory TMAP has psi limits around 20-22, and depending on how hard you push your turbo, you could be approaching those limits. Also, including a higher turbo, age/miles on the car as well. So at 52k and approaching 20lbs from the turbo, the change out just makes sense.

Noticed in your sig as well.. my GFB DV+ arrives TODAY! 8)

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

20-22 PSI on stock turbo and fueling?

Quoting part of my conversation with Active Autowerke:
"On N55 we’ve made about 440hp safely without additional upgrades to the fuel system (only upgraded 3.5bar tmap sensor). Anything more than that and you’ll need port injection or a piggyback. With fuel-it port injection and an Active-8, we’ve made about 530hp. Another problem at these power levels is excess heat. "

So while I don't know if I will ever change out the turbo, I feel I am well within reasonable parameters with sensible supporting upgrades like the TMAP and the diverter + that literally just arrived.

[Seba77W]

Originally Posted by raichean

the diverter + that literally just arrived.

Awesome. Don't forget the DIY video
I'm looking to do this upgrade as well.

[JaredG_F30]

I can't wait to see your logs. I'm curious to see what your AFRs, timing and fuel rail pressure look like. From everything I've read and discussed with other tuners, the stock fuel pumps just can't keep up with the amount of air mass flowing at 20-22PSI, leaning out the mixture. Also, I believe pushing the stock turbo to that level may be putting a lot of strain on the compressor. I'd love to see the compressor maps for the stock snail.

Originally Posted by raichean

Quoting part of my conversation with Active Autowerke:
"On N55 we’ve made about 440hp safely without additional upgrades to the fuel system (only upgraded 3.5bar tmap sensor). Anything more than that and you’ll need port injection or a piggyback. With fuel-it port injection and an Active-8, we’ve made about 530hp. Another problem at these power levels is excess heat. "

So while I don't know if I will ever change out the turbo, I feel I am well within reasonable parameters with sensible supporting upgrades like the TMAP and the diverter + that literally just arrived.

[BimmerFan]

Originally Posted by raichean

Quoting part of my conversation with Active Autowerke:
"On N55 we’ve made about 440hp safely without additional upgrades to the fuel system (only upgraded 3.5bar tmap sensor). Anything more than that and you’ll need port injection or a piggyback. With fuel-it port injection and an Active-8, we’ve made about 530hp. Another problem at these power levels is excess heat. "

So while I don't know if I will ever change out the turbo, I feel I am well within reasonable parameters with sensible supporting upgrades like the TMAP and the diverter + that literally just arrived.

Think a hybrid or large turbo with Meth or E85 is required to reach 530whp..

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

I can't wait to see your logs. I'm curious to see what your AFRs, timing and fuel rail pressure look like. From everything I've read and discussed with other tuners, the stock fuel pumps just can't keep up with the amount of air mass flowing at 20-22PSI, leaning out the mixture. Also, I believe pushing the stock turbo to that level may be putting a lot of strain on the compressor. I'd love to see the compressor maps for the stock snail.

I am pulling all of the relevant logs I can on my next run on their recommendation, using the Torque app and sending the results to AA for review.

Looking at:
AFR - commanded
AFR- measured
Engine load absolute
Engine RPM
Fuel Rail pressure
intake air temps
MAF rate
timing advance
Turbo boost & vacuum

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by raichean

I am pulling all of the relevant logs I can on my next run on their recommendation, using the Torque app and sending the results to AA for review.

Looking at:
AFR - commanded
AFR- measured
Engine load absolute
Engine RPM
Fuel Rail pressure
intake air temps
MAF rate
timing advance
Turbo boost & vacuum

Excellent. And AFRs plus Timing are certainly a concern of mine even though I know these cars because of the Direct Fuel inj and 2000psi pressure are fine running boost at 14.7afr and are theorectically ok. 2000psi fuel sprayed into a combustion chamber will definitely cool down a cylinder no question.

I'm from the old school port FI,250 to 455 psi fuel pump,big injectors ,bigger fuel rail and running 11 to 13 afr on pump with high boost.

Direct FI a totally different and better ball gane.

[1QuikWS6]

I received my new AA Flash tunes from Nic yesterday

Thought I would walk thru the operation with a couple things of note:

• Once you receive your cable, there will be some instructions included that has a link to Simon3 software DL on their site - ignore that. The new 2018 Simon3 cables require a different software that still hasn't been updated with the AA branding. Contact either Nic or Andrew & they will send you a link to their dropbox with the correct iFlash program (you can ignore the PDF instructions also as they don't really apply to Fxx cars)
  
• Once you receive the link, DL software, plug your Simon3 cable into computer, install software & drivers
  
• Now you're ready to read ECU info from your car to send in to AA for the new Flash Tunes - nice thing with Fxx cars is that you don't actually have to do a full Read of your stock tune (like back in the E9x days) - so no need for battery charger at this point as the entire operation takes like 30s
  
• Plug cable in to OBD port & computer, push Start button 1X just so gauge lights are on, RUN iFlash program - it will go thru & check to make sure your computer is up to the task on 1st screen (15s). Once that is all green, it will go to 2nd screen where it Reads your car ECU Type info
  
• Takes like 15s to get info (which will auto populate in all fields at top of screen) then ask if you want to set your cable to these values & lock it to your VIN# (double check your VIN number that is auto populated before hitting YES. Your car is now married to the cable, hit 'NEXT' - at this point, DO NOT hit 'Read ECU' instead look at bottom left corner for button that says 'Copy Text To Clipboard' - hit that button & Paste info into MSWord doc to save for ever
  
• Send that file in to Nic @ AA, he will ask what octane gas you're running, & any mods up to date + options you want in your new Flash Tune(s)

Since I am in PA & must pass emissions I opted for:

• 93 Octane
• NO O2 Delete
• Keep Cold Start
• MPerformance Burble (this was recommended by Andrew as a nice noticeable burble, but not overly aggressive with shotguns & such, what he has on his car)

I had him send:

• New Stock Tune
• Stage1 Tune - reported to run around 16-17PSI
• Stage2 Tune - reported to run closer to 18.5 PSI

I still have (1) more free tune available thru the purchase

Nic will then send you the new Flash tunes you requested + PDF of correct instructions (took around 4hrs to get new tunes in my case)

Now you are ready to flash & you will need to do the following:

• Hook up battery charger for peace of mind
• Connect Laptop w/Simon3 cable as before (plug IN laptop to AC power for peace of mind in case battery power would give out in middle of Flash)
• Ignition ON so gauges lite only
• Door Open
• Run iFlash program & on Identification Detail screen click on 'Diagnostics'
• Click 'READ Coding Data' (this will read in any/all of the custom coding you have done to your car & save it to a separate file - (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT STEP - DO THIS BEFORE FLASHING ANY TUNES)
• SAVE this file with in an easily accessible place (Save file will be used later to Write Coding Data)
• Close Diagnostics screen & click 'Program ECU Memory'
• ALWAYS select the Stock tune from AA (larger 4MB file) for this 1st go around (not necessary after this 1st time unless you want to go back to Stock) hit OPEN. Flashing the Stock tune will take approx. 15min
• After Flash you will be prompted to turn OFF ignition. Turn OFF car & click 'Ignition Is OFF', wait 30s & turn ignition back ON, click 'OK' on the 'Successful Flash' prompt
• Click on 'Diagnostics' again, & click on 'Write Coding Data' Select the file you previously saved & click 'Open' this will Write all your specific Coding data back to car
• When done, turn OFF car, wait 40s & the car is now ready to drive

> After the full Stock flash is done, you can flash any of the custom 512kB tune files. These are partial files containing only the tuned section & will only take 1min to flash. After any Flash is complete, you will need to Write back the Coding Data as explained above


> Since I will be running the Stage2 tune, it was also recommended to me to install a new 3.5bar sensor - since it will allow me to run more boost without running into fuel pressure issues that occur when you get close to maxxing out the stock 2.5bar sensor (stated that stock sensor is theoretically capable of reading to about 21.5PSI)

> I also asked for recommendation as to what new plugs to run when I swap them out - was told AA typically uses NGK 97506 gapped to .019" - .020"


That's it - all done. Sounds like a lot, but actual time to completion is short

[ceedawg]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

I received my new AA Flash tunes from Nic yesterday

Thought I would walk thru the operation with a couple things of note:

• Once you receive your cable, there will be some instructions included that has a link to Simon3 software DL on their site - ignore that. The new 2018 Simon3 cables require a different software that still hasn't been updated with the AA branding. Contact either Nic or Andrew & they will send you a link to their dropbox with the correct iFlash program (you can ignore the PDF instructions also as they don't really apply to Fxx cars)
  
• Once you receive the link, DL software, plug your Simon3 cable into computer, install software & drivers
  
• Now you're ready to read ECU info from your car to send in to AA for the new Flash Tunes - nice thing with Fxx cars is that you don't actually have to do a full Read of your stock tune (like back in the E9x days) - so no need for battery charger at this point as the entire operation takes like 30s
  
• Plug cable in to OBD port & computer, push Start button 1X just so gauge lights are on, RUN iFlash program - it will go thru & check to make sure your computer is up to the task on 1st screen (15s). Once that is all green, it will go to 2nd screen where it Reads your car ECU Type info
  
• Takes like 15s to get info (which will auto populate in all fields at top of screen) then ask if you want to set your cable to these values & lock it to your VIN# (double check your VIN number that is auto populated before hitting YES. Your car is now married to the cable, hit 'NEXT' - at this point, DO NOT hit 'Read ECU' instead look at bottom left corner for button that says 'Copy Text To Clipboard' - hit that button & Paste info into MSWord doc to save for ever
  
• Send that file in to Nic @ AA, he will ask what octane gas you're running, & any mods up to date + options you want in your new Flash Tune(s)

Since I am in PA & must pass emissions I opted for:

• 93 Octane
• NO O2 Delete
• Keep Cold Start
• MPerformance Burble (this was recommended by Andrew as a nice noticeable burble, but not overly aggressive with shotguns & such, what he has on his car)

I had him send:

• New Stock Tune
• Stage1 Tune - reported to run around 16-17PSI
• Stage2 Tune - reported to run closer to 18.5 PSI

I still have (1) more free tune available thru the purchase

Nic will then send you the new Flash tunes you requested + PDF of correct instructions (took around 4hrs to get new tunes in my case)

Now you are ready to flash & you will need to do the following:

• Hook up battery charge for peace of mind
• Connect Laptop w/Simon3 cable as before (plug IN laptop to AC power for peace of mind in case battery power would give out in middle of Flash)
• Ignition ON so gauges lite only
• Door Open
• Run iFlash program & on Identification Detail screen click on 'Diagnostics'
• Click 'READ Coding Data' (this will read in any/all of the custom coding you have done to your car & save it to a separate file - (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT STEP - DO THIS BEFORE FLASHING ANY TUNES)
• SAVE this file with in an easily accessible place (Save file will be used later to Write Coding Data)
• Close Diagnostics screen & click 'Program ECU Memory'
• ALWAYS select the Stock tune from AA (larger 4MB file) for this 1st go around (not necessary after this 1st time unless you want to go back to Stock) hit OPEN. Flashing the Stock tune will take approx. 15min
• After Flash you will be prompted to turn OFF ignition. Turn OFF car & click 'Ignition Is OFF', wait 30s & turn ignition back ON, click 'OK' on the 'Successful Flash' prompt
• Click on 'Diagnostics' again, & click on 'Write Coding Data' Select the file you previously saved & click 'Open' this will Write all your specific Coding data back to car
• When done, turn OFF car, wait 40s & the car is now ready to drive

> After the full Stock flash is done, you can flash any of the custom 512kB tune files. These are partial files containing only the tuned section & will only take 1min to flash. After any Flash is complete, you will need to Write back the Coding Data as explained above


> Since I will be running the Stage2 tune, it was also recommended to me to install a new 3.5bar sensor - since it will allow me to run more boost without running into fuel pressure issues that occur when you get close to maxxing out the stock 2.5bar sensor (stated that stock sensor is theoretically capable of reading to about 21.5PSI)

> I also asked for recommendation as to what new plugs to run when I swap them out - was told AA typically uses NGK 97506 gapped to .019" - .020"


That's it - all done. Sounds like a lot, but actual time to completion is short

Wow I need to print this out thanks. How does the car feel?

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6

I received my new AA Flash tunes from Nic yesterday

Thought I would walk thru the operation with a couple things of note:

• Once you receive your cable, there will be some instructions included that has a link to Simon3 software DL on their site - ignore that. The new 2018 Simon3 cables require a different software that still hasn't been updated with the AA branding. Contact either Nic or Andrew & they will send you a link to their dropbox with the correct iFlash program (you can ignore the PDF instructions also as they don't really apply to Fxx cars)
  
• Once you receive the link, DL software, plug your Simon3 cable into computer, install software & drivers
  
• Now you're ready to read ECU info from your car to send in to AA for the new Flash Tunes - nice thing with Fxx cars is that you don't actually have to do a full Read of your stock tune (like back in the E9x days) - so no need for battery charger at this point as the entire operation takes like 30s
  
• Plug cable in to OBD port & computer, push Start button 1X just so gauge lights are on, RUN iFlash program - it will go thru & check to make sure your computer is up to the task on 1st screen (15s). Once that is all green, it will go to 2nd screen where it Reads your car ECU Type info
  
• Takes like 15s to get info (which will auto populate in all fields at top of screen) then ask if you want to set your cable to these values & lock it to your VIN# (double check your VIN number that is auto populated before hitting YES. Your car is now married to the cable, hit 'NEXT' - at this point, DO NOT hit 'Read ECU' instead look at bottom left corner for button that says 'Copy Text To Clipboard' - hit that button & Paste info into MSWord doc to save for ever
  
• Send that file in to Nic @ AA, he will ask what octane gas you're running, & any mods up to date + options you want in your new Flash Tune(s)

Since I am in PA & must pass emissions I opted for:

• 93 Octane
• NO O2 Delete
• Keep Cold Start
• MPerformance Burble (this was recommended by Andrew as a nice noticeable burble, but not overly aggressive with shotguns & such, what he has on his car)

I had him send:

• New Stock Tune
• Stage1 Tune - reported to run around 16-17PSI
• Stage2 Tune - reported to run closer to 18.5 PSI

I still have (1) more free tune available thru the purchase

Nic will then send you the new Flash tunes you requested + PDF of correct instructions (took around 4hrs to get new tunes in my case)

Now you are ready to flash & you will need to do the following:

• Hook up battery charge for peace of mind
• Connect Laptop w/Simon3 cable as before (plug IN laptop to AC power for peace of mind in case battery power would give out in middle of Flash)
• Ignition ON so gauges lite only
• Door Open
• Run iFlash program & on Identification Detail screen click on 'Diagnostics'
• Click 'READ Coding Data' (this will read in any/all of the custom coding you have done to your car & save it to a separate file - (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT STEP - DO THIS BEFORE FLASHING ANY TUNES)
• SAVE this file with in an easily accessible place (Save file will be used later to Write Coding Data)
• Close Diagnostics screen & click 'Program ECU Memory'
• ALWAYS select the Stock tune from AA (larger 4MB file) for this 1st go around (not necessary after this 1st time unless you want to go back to Stock) hit OPEN. Flashing the Stock tune will take approx. 15min
• After Flash you will be prompted to turn OFF ignition. Turn OFF car & click 'Ignition Is OFF', wait 30s & turn ignition back ON, click 'OK' on the 'Successful Flash' prompt
• Click on 'Diagnostics' again, & click on 'Write Coding Data' Select the file you previously saved & click 'Open' this will Write all your specific Coding data back to car
• When done, turn OFF car, wait 40s & the car is now ready to drive

> After the full Stock flash is done, you can flash any of the custom 512kB tune files. These are partial files containing only the tuned section & will only take 1min to flash. After any Flash is complete, you will need to Write back the Coding Data as explained above


> Since I will be running the Stage2 tune, it was also recommended to me to install a new 3.5bar sensor - since it will allow me to run more boost without running into fuel pressure issues that occur when you get close to maxxing out the stock 2.5bar sensor (stated that stock sensor is theoretically capable of reading to about 21.5PSI)

> I also asked for recommendation as to what new plugs to run when I swap them out - was told AA typically uses NGK 97506 gapped to .019" - .020"


That's it - all done. Sounds like a lot, but actual time to completion is short

FANTASTIC write up well done! Fantastic info!

[BMW DIY Guy]

I got my updated flash from AA including the 3.5 sensor and a slightly more aggressive torque request. I am *really* impressed.

I only had a short time to take the car out after, combined with traffic and wet conditions so couldnt push it. That said.. good god.. I have never had a back end wiggle coming out of 2nd into 3rd, and the butt dyno feels like a straight linear curve through the power band.

I didnt make it out of 3rd before I had to back off, my TINY log set shows about 15.1lbs max psi until I had to back off, at about 5600 rpm.

I cannot WAIT until the 31st and my next dyno. My DV+ will be installed on the 25th as well, so will be ready for great runs including logging. Still on hold for my high flow catted DP, and wish it could be ready in time but not happening yet.

oh oh oh.. and for the 6WB crowd.. I didnt realize I had yellow and red crawl bars up for RPM through the gauge until yesterday!!! My first run down a local straight away, was like WOAH WHAT IS THAT!! *laugh*

[1QuikWS6]

I'll be installing my 3.5 sensor as soon as it arrives, would like to also get the DV+ - waiting on your install video

Not looking forward to that install as I have AWD which is supposed to be even more of a PITA

Unless I have someone else do it - be interesting to see what that cost is...

As far as DP goes - I asked Andrew again & he stated still in testing on their M2 - mebbe another month till their Hi Flow Catted version comes out.

Good thing is Mike stated he would honor combo deal reduced pricing for AA DP/Flash Tune to anyone that already bought the tune from him separately for the DP when it is released

[lens]

Originally Posted by raichean

Quoting part of my conversation with Active Autowerke:
"On N55 we’ve made about 440hp safely without additional upgrades to the fuel system (only upgraded 3.5bar tmap sensor). Anything more than that and you’ll need port injection or a piggyback. With fuel-it port injection and an Active-8, we’ve made about 530hp. Another problem at these power levels is excess heat. "

So while I don't know if I will ever change out the turbo, I feel I am well within reasonable parameters with sensible supporting upgrades like the TMAP and the diverter + that literally just arrived.

People change the turbo to have more power top end. Majority of those gains that AA made is normally low-mid range but never top end as turbo cannot physically handle it.

I also believe AA is quoting crank HP.

[JaredG_F30]

Are you doing the DV+ install yourself? I still have mine in the box as I've been dreading the install. I figured once my stock DV starts degrading and can't hold boost I'll go ahead and make the swap.

Originally Posted by raichean

I got my updated flash from AA including the 3.5 sensor and a slightly more aggressive torque request. I am *really* impressed.

I only had a short time to take the car out after, combined with traffic and wet conditions so couldnt push it. That said.. good god.. I have never had a back end wiggle coming out of 2nd into 3rd, and the butt dyno feels like a straight linear curve through the power band.

I didnt make it out of 3rd before I had to back off, my TINY log set shows about 15.1lbs max psi until I had to back off, at about 5600 rpm.

I cannot WAIT until the 31st and my next dyno. My DV+ will be installed on the 25th as well, so will be ready for great runs including logging. Still on hold for my high flow catted DP, and wish it could be ready in time but not happening yet.

oh oh oh.. and for the 6WB crowd.. I didnt realize I had yellow and red crawl bars up for RPM through the gauge until yesterday!!! My first run down a local straight away, was like WOAH WHAT IS THAT!! *laugh*

[JaredG_F30]

440 crank hp sounds more realistic. Using 15% DT loss and with my whp numbers, I would be in the 440 crank hp range. I bet I can put down more now that I'm in 93 octane country.

Originally Posted by chaungo

People change the turbo to have more power top end. Majority of those gains that AA made is normally low-mid range but never top end as turbo cannot physically handle it.

I also believe AA is quoting crank HP.