[li21]

I've had this problem My 328i.
So bad now can't drive It properly. Can't stop the car at a traffic light without violent vibration or stalling.

Check:
MAF seems clean
Coils seem okay
Replaced all spark plugs. One was particularly dirty

None of that has fixed it.

Any other suggestions?

[li21]

I'm also getting the
"Drive train" warning light turn on .
How serious is this ?

[kingmonkey8]

'Drive train malfunction' error?

Could it be something to do with the fuel pressure? i.e. bad fuel pump?

[li21]

My issue was solved, it was the injectors

[bimmer_6uy]

Im having issues with my 2013 92k bimmer. Did my tranny fluid, butt plugs, ignition remix coils, oil itself and my air filter. All jokes aside Im going for my injectors and if it still persists maf sensor you're next on the line!

[The Kurgan]

Originally Posted by mge92

Had this happen to me. Only happened when it was really cold. Have not fixed it because it is not cold and the dealer could not replicate it. Let me know how it goes. Bring it to the dealer. Some people have said it could be issues with the throttle body or a vacuum leak.

Mine started acting up in the cold too. It was the gas tank vent (breather) valve. Mine got worse (frequent Check Engine Lights), so I had it replaced. Rough idle went away.

[roma3]

UPDATE:
Issue not resolved for me
Happens mostly when car is warmed up (driving around) and then turned off for 5-30 minutes and on restart - bam! (loss of power, shuddering, and can die) only solution I've found is if I put it back into "Park", turn car off, wait for 20 sec, and restart.
It does not happen very frequently (maybe 1-2 a month)
So far I have: 1. changed spark plugs, 2. coolant/thermostat, 3. engine oil, 4. air filter, and 5. wiper blades haha.

I plan to do transmission, differential and transfer case fluids in the coming months (that more preventative maintenance but who knows maybe this issue goes away too)

[roma3]

Update2
Issue not resolved
I did ATF change, diff and transfer case - no change in the issue though.
And few days back - Check Engine light...P0171 (Bank1 too lean)
Car runs fine for now and check engine light has disappeared (it was in memory) but I am suspecting a possible vacuum leak some place ...
so here we are a few changes but no resolution yet. I'll keep you all posted

[roma3]

Originally Posted by li21

My issue was solved, it was the injectors

Did you have your injectors cleaned or changed out?

[maurim3]

Originally Posted by roma3

Update2
Issue not resolved
I did ATF change, diff and transfer case - no change in the issue though.
And few days back - Check Engine light...P0171 (Bank1 too lean)
Car runs fine for now and check engine light has disappeared (it was in memory) but I am suspecting a possible vacuum leak some place ...
so here we are a few changes but no resolution yet. I'll keep you all posted

Do a smoke test ASAP

[roma3]

Originally Posted by maurim3

Do a smoke test ASAP

I'm on it. Fingers crossed it's some $15 piece of tube.
The car died while driving on the highway whatever this is its getting worse (esp colder weather)
I just always assumed that a vacuum leak would be constant and not go away with restart.

[vinzcast21]

Originally Posted by roma3

I'm on it. Fingers crossed it's some $15 piece of tube.
The car died while driving on the highway whatever this is its getting worse (esp colder weather)
I just always assumed that a vacuum leak would be constant and not go away with restart.

check for compression losses

[7iM3less]

I may have missed it but are you running any mods?

I'm FBO with BM3 stg 2 and had it happening on occasion. Went to dealer while I was ok warranty still and they reprogrammed the car - still happened.

I was starting to think it was the fuel filter, bad had it even the intake.

Anyway I flashed to stock about a month ago and all of a sudden it's gone...my parts guy at the dealer suggested it. He had the same problem.

[roma3]

Another update.
Did smoke test - found the smallest vacuum leak between 2 air intake tubes. I added padding between them - that leak is gone.
cold starts still produce rough idle though and warm engine turning the car off and then on 30% of the time will cause a loss of throttle response (I can floor it and RPMs wont go above 1k and the car will start to hesitate) and fault codes (bank 1 lean and Cyl 2 misfire) - I will post a video soon.
https://youtu.be/zqtJxCCGMb0
So I pulled the plugs - checked gap - all at 0.030 to 0.031 - and all relatively clean. Reinstalled but changed them around cyl2 plug and coil now in cyl3.
Ok for a few days - then same codes again!!! - my love for this car is fading

I am going to check the crankcase breather diaphragm and after that it looks like maybe injector time?

[roma3]

Well I checked the crankcase breather diaphragm and WHOAA!!! it has a crack in it! I just ordered a repair kit will keep you guys updated.

[1N54E92]

Originally Posted by roma3

Well I checked the crankcase breather diaphragm and WHOAA!!! it has a crack in it! I just ordered a repair kit will keep you guys updated.

what year is your car and how many miles on the car ? N20 or N26 engine ?

[roma3]

Originally Posted by 1N54E92

what year is your car and how many miles on the car ? N20 or N26 engine ?

'13 328 - N20 w/ 78k

[izaazk]

Have you looked at the color of the cat when it idled...? Had this on a friends car and car was glowing red

Found out it it was multiple leaking injectors that would only cause issue at idle / low rpm

No codes were stored and issue fixed after replacing all of them

[roma3]

SOLVED! (I think)
So turns out it was the crankcase diaphragm - I changed it and even at 27 degrees and a cold start the car ran beautifully ( I have not heard it run this smooth in a while)
So we will see if it lasts.
oh and the part was $26 on amazon - assoc link: https://amzn.to/3a7di9e
(about the part - I will say it was a tighter fit than the OEM but eventually I got it on there)

[chhappy7]

Originally Posted by roma3

SOLVED! (I think)
So turns out it was the crankcase diaphragm - I changed it and even at 27 degrees and a cold start the car ran beautifully ( I have not heard it run this smooth in a while)
So we will see if it lasts.
oh and the part was $26 on amazon - assoc link: https://amzn.to/2ScMbBd
(about the part - I will say it was a tighter fit than the OEM but eventually I got it on there)

So I did a quick google search but couldn't find the answer to this, but where is this crankcase diaphragm?

[roma3]

Originally Posted by chhappy7

So I did a quick google search but couldn't find the answer to this, but where is this crankcase diaphragm?

Sure.
Here is a screenshot of a video I took (low quality) with the engine cover and insulation off.
[IMG]Crankcase breather diaphragm by Roman G, on Flickr[/IMG]
hope this helps

[chhappy7]

Originally Posted by roma3

Sure.
Here is a screenshot of a video I took (low quality) with the engine cover and insulation off.
[IMG][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d254d894_c.jpg[/img]Crankcase breather diaphragm by Roman G, on Flickr[/IMG]
hope this helps

Thanks!

Huh I think I'll check that out see how mine is. Seems pretty easy to change