[RogueLeader]

Im really glad i read this review. I literally joined the forum to research pads and rotors as my next to do and was between the Hawks and the Akebonos.

[joni_titi]

Question for people using those pad, what is the noise level in normal driving ? Any squeking or squealing compare to stock pad ?

I'm hesitating between the Hawk pad eand the Centric posi-quiet.

[cleaver]

Assuming you grease the back of the pads, no noise (and minimal dust).

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

Question for people using those pad, what is the noise level in normal driving ? Any squeking or squealing compare to stock pad ?

I'm hesitating between the Hawk pad eand the Centric posi-quiet.

Ok so the only squeal I get is after a VERY hard braking session. Like we are talking 140mph to 30mph aggressively. After that they do seem to squeal. Daily driving is as quiet as the stock pads were. I get about 300- 500 miles until the wheels need to be cleaned again where as the stock pads I had to clean them literally after 25 miles of non highway driving. These have a tiny bit of less initial bite which I favor for my suburban driving style.

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by cleaver

Assuming you grease the back of the pads, no noise (and minimal dust).

Yes, I used a thin-medium layer of brake grease on the back of the pads and don't have squealing unless the brakes are super hot. See my post above. The dust is also less than the stock pads. Again see my post above.

[casualDIYer]

I recently (10 days ago) added a set of Hawk 5.0 HPS street pads. I'm not dissatisfied with them but I was not overly impressed with them either. As reported no dusting but I didn't feel like I had more stopping power. Nice linear feel as reported by other posters but I do get the occasional squeal backing up or when first leaving the driveway, sometimes, not always.

I did follow Hawk's bedding in procedure but near the last couple of runs of high to low speed I did get a lot of squeal. I wonder if I need to re-run the bedding in again? And maybe add a little more anti-squeal?

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

I recently (10 days ago) added a set of Hawk 5.0 HPS street pads. I'm not dissatisfied with them but I was not overly impressed with them either. As reported no dusting but I didn't feel like I had more stopping power. Nice linear feel as reported by other posters but I do get the occasional squeal backing up or when first leaving the driveway, sometimes, not always.

I did follow Hawk's bedding in procedure but near the last couple of runs of high to low speed I did get a lot of squeal. I wonder if I need to re-run the bedding in again? And maybe add a little more anti-squeal?

Ive been running the Hawk HPS 5.0 now for about 15k miles. The OEM pads had a lot more initial bite. I do a lot of traffic driving. The high initial bite of the oem pads would feel like an ON/OFF scenario unless at higher speeds. My Hawks definitely dust but not to the same degree as oem did. I feel like the high speed braking is better with my hawks than oem. They take the abuse very well. If I get the brakes really hot my hawks will squeal at low speeds. Brake pads are so subjective. I've thought about switching it up next time around. I've heard the porter field RS-4 street pads are amazing. I have my eye on those in the coming months.

[therealm3]

Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT

Ive been running the Hawk HPS 5.0 now for about 15k miles. The OEM pads had a lot more initial bite. I do a lot of traffic driving. The high initial bite of the oem pads would feel like an ON/OFF scenario unless at higher speeds. My Hawks definitely dust but not to the same degree as oem did. I feel like the high speed braking is better with my hawks than oem. They take the abuse very well. If I get the brakes really hot my hawks will squeal at low speeds. Brake pads are so subjective. I've thought about switching it up next time around. I've heard the porter field RS-4 street pads are amazing. I have my eye on those in the coming months.

I had rs-4's on my last f30 and really liked them. Was tempted to try hawk5.0 on this one but after reading this maybe I'll just stick with the PF again. I will need to do brakes on the current car at some point this summer so still a little time to decide.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by therealm3

I had rs-4's on my last f30 and really liked them. Was tempted to try hawk5.0 on this one but after reading this maybe I'll just stick with the PF again. I will need to do brakes on the current car at some point this summer so still a little time to decide.

If you go with the RS-4s on your 340 be sure to post. I'd be interested to hear more about them. Thanks.

[therealm3]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

If you go with the RS-4s on your 340 be sure to post. I'd be interested to hear more about them. Thanks.

Will do. Had them on my 335 and they were great. Much less dust than oe, nice linear pedal feel, and more bite at the high end. Only downside was a slight drop in initial bite but that was a plus in my book.

[Dav340]

hey I am doing the same set up Hawk 5.0 with the zimmerman blank rotors. What are your reviews about and what do you mean it gives a yellow look can you send more pics if you are able too

[TK335iMSPT]

Originally Posted by Dav340

hey I am doing the same set up Hawk 5.0 with the zimmerman blank rotors. What are your reviews about and what do you mean it gives a yellow look can you send more pics if you are able too

This is not my photo, but this is what the zinc coated Zimmerman rotor looked like within only a few hundred miles. Of course it's only surface rust but still super unappealing to the eyes. The rotors I have now that are pictured above have been on for about 15,000 miles and 2 years. The hats are still a clean black surface. The bare metal of the rotor still accumulates surface rust, but that is brushed off as soon as the brakes are applied.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by johnung

FYI- that's just internal reinforcement. It's not the same as a heavy duty exterior that prevents the rubber hose from expanding first before the energy gets transferred to braking

That’s NOT how SS lines work. That’s internet bullhooey.

The braid is for looks and abrasion resistance. Take it off and they work exactly the same.

That is important because SS lines are made of plastic tubing. Teflon to be exact, and we all know just how durable plastic is to repeated flexing in same place or abrasion. They feel better because they are semi rigid plastic. That’s also why you are supposed to replace them every two years before they fail from fatigue.

If you run then and like them, good. But be aware of the downsides too and how they work.

[Solidjake]

I have the 5.0's. Only thing I'm not happy with is cold temp braking but I think I still need to code the car for the Brembos up front. That might affect how it bites.

I drive 180 miles a day for work so when I pick up some brake dust I'll take pics. Wheels are silver.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

That's NOT how SS lines work. That's internet bullhooey.

The braid is for looks and abrasion resistance. Take it off and they work exactly the same.

That is important because SS lines are made of plastic tubing. Teflon to be exact, and we all know just how durable plastic is to repeated flexing in same place or abrasion. They feel better because they are semi rigid plastic. That's also why you are supposed to replace them every two years before they fail from fatigue.

If you run then and like them, good. But be aware of the downsides too and how they work.

Are you reading what you are saying? Those conditions don't exist.

"Take it off {the stainless steel braid} and they work exactly the same {as stock rubber brake hoses}."

But the SS is not being removed. That's the whole point. It's working as a system along with the internal tubing.

"...we all know just how durable plastic is to repeated flexing in same place or abrasion."

A materials engineer might take offense to such a simple characterization of the tubing as being made of Teflon or as plastic, because there are probably hundreds of possible formulations all with unique characteristics. The material would have been chosen by a materials engineer because it is best for the job.

Again, the stainless steel sheath is not being removed. It's there to prevent flex and abrasion. It's also there to protect brake lines from being cut by any road debris. Remains of truck tires on the road can be particularly dangerous since they have steel or Kevlar type belts that are very sharp.

"...you are supposed to replace them {stainless steel brake lines} every two years before they fail from fatigue."

I've used several brands of stainless steel brake lines for decades. I've never had one fail. I've never seen or read a manufacturer state that their product requires replacement every two years.

I happen to know a manufacturer who sells stainless steel brake lines for other car/truck makes. He said that he's never heard anything like that. He's been selling them for years and says he's never seen failures that you claim. He said that failure potential is not in the stainless steel braid or in the internal tubing. Properly installing the end fittings is the key step. That's why he uses the highest quality fittings and tooling, and only people who are trained and certified do the manufacturing for him. He said he could cut corners and save cost by buying cheap materials and tooling, and paying less for untrained/uncertified labor. But that would be foolish, even stupid.

He went further to say that brake lines are a critical safety component. He said that he wouldn't be in the business and risk personal liability if a two year failure rate existed.

[Cobra358]

I have had the Hawk pads for 4 months now. Initial bite is less than stock pads, they still work well enough when ice cold, but total bite is better than stock pads, less dust than stock pads. Not a race pad, they will fade if you get them hot enough, a solid street pad though.

[Onizukachan]

They are Teflon. And the SS is not there to prevent expansion and provide a firmer pedal like you said

They would work and feel exactly the same sans the heat shrunk over generic SS braiding.





And they do fail due to flexing in the same location repeatedly. The best ones will have a guide to try to immobilize the first inch or so so they don’t flex right at the fitting. That is what has helped them last more than 2 years. They used to rarely last that!

You ever notice how people call them SS lines, and not plastic lines? Marketing.
People like you think and spread the notion the SS stops the rubber expanding like you did.
But there is no rubber and that braid does diddle squat for functionality. It’s there to stop a pop top or rock slicing right thru the little plastic line like a hot knife thru butter.

Please don’t spread misinformation like you did previously. They are indeed for off road use only which means 0 liability for anyone but you… the user.
And if you talk to people who race cars and actually know what they are doing and how they work… they will tell you they do need to be replaced every 2-3 years proactively.
If you want to use them, fine. Just replace them every 2-3 years. Otherwise you are taking your life and my family’s into a game of Russian roulette every time you drive. They are not as durable as OEM rubber lines and they will fail suddenly and spectacularly with no outward sign of trouble at all.

Just one example:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...e-line-failure

[Solidjake]

Approx 600 miles on them. 80% highway with triple digit hard braking

[GENAU]

Man I'm really torn between the EC-7 and SM-10 and those pictures didn't help. Those 10s look great.

Anywho, I have Akebono up front and Hawk at the rears. Both are fine as far as I'm concerned but I'm noticing a lot of squeezing at lower speeds. Maybe it's just the temps being close to 40-50 and they're be better when it warms up some. I put plenty of lubricant on the rear of the pads when installing, as well as the edges/tracks of the calipers (whatever you call the part the flanges of pad sits upon and moves against). Not sure whats causing it.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

I recently (10 days ago) added a set of Hawk 5.0 HPS street pads. I'm not dissatisfied with them but I was not overly impressed with them either. As reported no dusting but I didn't feel like I had more stopping power. Nice linear feel as reported by other posters but I do get the occasional squeal backing up or when first leaving the driveway, sometimes, not always.

I did follow Hawk's bedding in procedure but near the last couple of runs of high to low speed I did get a lot of squeal. I wonder if I need to re-run the bedding in again? And maybe add a little more anti-squeal?

I'm a year in with the Hawk 5.0 for the street and HB765N.664 - HP Plus (fronts only) for the track and have come to be a fan of them. Initial bite issues were mostly solved by running a bedding in procedure (100 kph - 40 kph, repeat 7-8 times). Squealing is an occasional issue but a) bedding in helps cut down on it, and b) sufficient high-temp brake grease helps as well. I use Pagid Cera Tec Anti-Squeal Lubricant (find it here on the Pagid hompage - https://pagid.com/product-range/brake-fluid-lubricants/)

Pluses
Low dust
Linear feel
Low wear on the rotors. CAD$200 for pads seems pricey but not as expensive as CAD$500 rotors.

Aggrivants
Occasional squeal at the last moment just before the car stops.

For track use, it's the pad that gets murdered not the rotor. For my driving, and the track I drive, I can get away with just swapping fronts to HP Plus and leaving the HPS 5.0 (street) on the rear. After 7 track days the fronts are down to 40% and the rears seem hardly touched. A nice touch has been with the Pagid Cera Tec grease, I have yet to get any squeal. Maybe as days warm that might change but for now, satisfied customer, would recommend.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by GENAU

Man I'm really torn between the EC-7 and SM-10 and those pictures didn't help. Those 10s look great.

Tell me about it. I was told 10+ weeks for SM-10s. Looks like the ARC-8 then.

[Runner340]

Has the Front Hawk 5.0 pads HB765B.664 changed in the last year or so? Appears they no longer have the weights on the ears of the pads which I assume is to dampen brake noise.

Some track day pad applications from other mfg's including Hawk don't have the weights either but I don't think noisy brakes are that much of a concern on the track.