[Scorp10]

My factory warranty finally ended in August on my 2017 340i xDrive. I've been itching to tune the car as this will be my first tune. I'm a newbie in this area for sure. This is my 3rd BMW, I've had a 2011 335i and a 2014 428i but never messed with tunes or performance modifications of any sort. Most of my modifications have been comeplety exterior or aesthetic (M performance parts, wheels, interior, etc.)

I do not have any modifications such as an intake or down pipe so I was leaning towards doing a Bootmod3 Stage 1 / 93 Octane map. I would like to confirm with others who ran a similar platform did so without any modifications. I have Shell V-Power 93 Octane here and that is all I use so I think I should be fine doing the 93 over the 91 map. My car has 28k miles, should I also change spark plugs before tuning? Any input is greatly appreciated.

[Hiflyer731]

Someone is selling a BM3 tune for $400. Grab that and you're good to go. If you want to be really conservative use the 91 tune. Either way it will be a different car. Can't hurt to change the plugs, depends how many miles are on them.

[blacksapphire440i]

Originally Posted by Scorp10

My factory warranty finally ended in August on my 2017 340i xDrive. I've been itching to tune the car as this will be my first tune. I'm a newbie in this area for sure. This is my 3rd BMW, I've had a 2011 335i and a 2014 428i but never messed with tunes or performance modifications of any sort. Most of my modifications have been comeplety exterior or aesthetic (M performance parts, wheels, interior, etc.)

I do not have any modifications such as an intake of catless down pipe so I was leaning towards doing a Bootmod3 Stage 1 / 93 Octane map. I would like to confirm with others who ran a similar platform did so without any modifications. I have Shell V-Power 93 Octane here and that is all I use so I think I should be fine doing the 93 over the 91 map. My car has 28k miles, should I also change spark plugs before tuning? Any input is greatly appreciated.

i'd run the 91 octane map to be safe or an e30 map if you have that in your area

[vektorprime]

Originally Posted by blacksapphire440i

i'd run the 91 octane map to be safe or an e30 map if you have that in your area

Agreed. I am running the 91 oct maps with 93 oct fuel and it's pretty good. I tried E30 for fun, and well, it's definitely addicting. The power is insane. Ultimately, I feel safer with 91 oct map. Just make sure to log whatever maps you run at wide open throttle (WOT) so you know how the engine is behaving. You don't want to just choose the 93 oct map with 93 oct fuel thinking it will run perfectly, a lot of the time it won't.

[dmanb2b]

I personally think stage 2 with an AA catted DP is the sweet spot. Emissions compliant in 49 states and the map is so much smoother than stage 1. Stage one was nice, but too much power upfront and I did not like the idea of running additional boost on the stock pipe. Sold the stock pipe to pay for the AA pipe.

[Scott340]

I'm similar to you, 2016 340i RWD without any mods except for a BM3 tune. Stage 2 93 and 93+ tunes all logged clean (I'm UK based running 99 Ron fuel) and I've been running them for 10k miles without issue.

Don't be scared to try the stage 2 tunes out without mods, as long as everything logs fine you'll have no issue. Logging is the most important thing

[vektorprime]

I also run 91 oct map with 200 cell dp and afe closed air instake. I just recently installed BMS WMI so will be switching to the 93 oct map. Always play it safe with timing and boost. Check the "log review" thread in this sub forum to check the max boost and max timing at 6kish RPM. That will tell you show you which boost values are targeted and timings are targeted for each tune. For me, I'd stick with stage 1 91 oct or stage 2 91 oct, or E30 maps (higher timing on each). They don't go crazy boost, but instead rely more on timing. Use E85 added to your tank to get there or WMI.

[Red-i]

Originally Posted by Scott340

I'm similar to you, 2016 340i RWD without any mods except for a BM3 tune. Stage 2 93 and 93+ tunes all logged clean (I'm UK based running 99 Ron fuel) and I've been running them for 10k miles without issue.

Don't be scared to try the stage 2 tunes out without mods, as long as everything logs fine you'll have no issue. Logging is the most important thing

wait what? I can run stage 2 91 with no dp?

[Scott340]

Yeah just load and go, I've had no issues at all. In my experience, the factory cat appears to be high enough flow to accommodate the extra pressure and heat resulting from the stage 2 maps

[talontdone]

Originally Posted by Scorp10

My factory warranty finally ended in August on my 2017 340i xDrive. I've been itching to tune the car as this will be my first tune. I'm a newbie in this area for sure. This is my 3rd BMW, I've had a 2011 335i and a 2014 428i but never messed with tunes or performance modifications of any sort. Most of my modifications have been comeplety exterior or aesthetic (M performance parts, wheels, interior, etc.)

I do not have any modifications such as an intake of catless down pipe so I was leaning towards doing a Bootmod3 Stage 1 / 93 Octane map. I would like to confirm with others who ran a similar platform did so without any modifications. I have Shell V-Power 93 Octane here and that is all I use so I think I should be fine doing the 93 over the 91 map. My car has 28k miles, should I also change spark plugs before tuning? Any input is greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the darkside! You can run Stage 1 without any mods. Moreover, running the 91 map on 93 should provide plenty of buffer/safety, but if you want to be 100% sure I would advise logging the car under the dashboard section of BM3. Do a pull from 2K to 6K in 3rd gear and monitor the "ignition timing correction" parameter for each cylinder. If the ECU is pulling timing you will see a negative value; anything more than 3 degrees of pull is cause for concern and likely means crappy gas or something spark related (plugs, plug gap, coil issue etc). Otherwise, you are all set!

I would suggest 94201 NGK Plugs gapped to 0.022" for your car (also good for Stage 2 and Stage 2+).

Best of luck!!

[mike@x-ph.com]

Stage 1 does not require any modifications
Stage2 requires high flow catted or catless downpipe

[Scott340]

My experience is the 340i standard cats are high flow enough for the stage 2 maps. No issues at all.

[Hein Jockins]

Make sure your DME can be flash tuned if you're trying to go with bootmod3 (ie. It hasn't had recent software updates from bmw, etc.). I figured my car's production date was too old (2017) so I'd be fine, but mine has to be bench unlocked first before a flash tune. If you go with bm3, you can always reach out to their support and send them your cars info to make sure it's flashable before you buy the license.

You can wear your battery down by attempting to flash several times.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by Scott340

My experience is the 340i standard cats are high flow enough for the stage 2 maps. No issues at all.

Until it melts and fails. But you do what you gotta do here. I wouldn't recommend this route though.

[Scott340]

Originally Posted by Wires

Until it melts and fails. But you do what you gotta do here. I wouldn't recommend this route though.

I asked BM3 and they said so long as the current DP was high flow, you're ok to use it. So what is high flow? Or more importantly is the factory DP high enough flow for BM3 stage 2 tunes?

I'm sure everyone agrees that the stage 1 tunes are suitable for the factory DP, so the question is why would the stage 1 93+ tune targeting nearly 20psi boost and an AFR of 12.2 at it's richest be ok for the factory DP

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=60ec...729b1c1c2892c8

... but the stage 2 93 targeting 17psi boost with similar AFR's to stage 1 not be suitable for the factory DP?

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=60d8...90c65df0b121b1

That just doesn't make sense. That said, if it melts and fails then I'll part with the money I would have spent and buy a sports cat. But 10k miles in, I'm still on the original cat, enjoying the car with stage 2, and I'm circa £1,000 better off.

[Wires]

Stock isn't high flow... period... It's a dual catalysis design which is restrictive.

If it was high flow, why would ANYONE replace it? As for the targeted boost values, that depends heavily on other factors (IAT's, ECT's, etc).

[cxmplex]

Originally Posted by Wires

Until it melts and fails. But you do what you gotta do here. I wouldn't recommend this route though.

Then you got yourself a free catless

[Scott340]

A DP is only as restrictive as its most restrictive element, in the case of the stock DP that would be the primary 600 cell monolith. A dual natured designed isn't the primary factor in a DP's level of restriction.

People could replace it for all number of different reasons - a louder exhaust, feel it gives a quicker spool, because a tuning shop told them they needed to etc... Either way people's motives for buying one doesn't have any impact on whether or not it can handle the added stress caused by a stage 2 tune.

Yep a number of factors effect boost load, but please try it yourself, there is no doubt all other things being equal that the Stage 1 93+ map targets more boost than the Stage 2 93 map. If the stock DP is fine with Stage 1 93+, it would be with Stage 2 as well... Unless I'm missing something?

I don't doubt that my stock DP will be taking more punishment than a sports cat, but it's still holding up fine. Hey if it ever does burn out, I'll only be running on the secondary 400 cell monolith - OEM sports cat!! jk!

[Scott340]

Originally Posted by cxmplex

Then you got yourself a free catless

Beat me to it!!

[Uni-Rapide]

Personally I would be more worried about the effect of excessive back pressure/heat on everything upstream of the downpipe…

[Red-i]

I didn't even realize there was a stage 1 93+. now i'm more confused.

so what is the difference between stage 1 93 (or 93+) and stage 2 91.

i could have sworn I read somewhere that the power delivery on stage 2 was more linear. stage 1 gives alot up front and then it seems to tail off a bit.

[vektorprime]

Originally Posted by Red-i

I didn't even realize there was a stage 1 93+. now i'm more confused.

so what is the difference between stage 1 93 (or 93+) and stage 2 91.

i could have sworn I read somewhere that the power delivery on stage 2 was more linear. stage 1 gives alot up front and then it seems to tail off a bit.

93 targets less timing than 93+. 93 plus assumes really good 93 with maybe some octane booster, or a gallon or 2 of E85. Maybe I'll try it out with WMI to see how it works out.