[Walrad]

Hey guys,

I am contemplating chip tuning my 320d, stage 1, it has done approximately 90000 km. I haven't done dpf or egr delete yet, because they haven't given me any problems yet. But I am worried about the timing chain on the n47 engines. I drive the car in normal manners just want it to be a bit more responsive. I haven't done any tuning on cars. Should I be worried when it comes down to the timing chain? What are you guys thoughts overall about stage 1 chip tuning?

Thanks in advance.

[barf]

No, go for a proper stage1. Mostly the problems are more related to early N47 and you have N47N.
If you drive so little your intake manifold might get clogged so get that properly cleaned and you will get better performance.
Most important is to do regular oil change intervals 10-13k km or every year and you will be fine.
Start thinking about replacing the chain at 150k, max would be 200k and absolute must is 250k.

[TurboWeasel]

Originally Posted by Walrad

Hey guys,

I am contemplating chip tuning my 320d, stage 1, it has done approximately 90000 km. I haven't done dpf or egr delete yet, because they haven't given me any problems yet. But I am worried about the timing chain on the n47 engines. I drive the car in normal manners just want it to be a bit more responsive. I haven't done any tuning on cars. Should I be worried when it comes down to the timing chain? What are you guys thoughts overall about stage 1 chip tuning?

Thanks in advance.

If you're worried about the chain, BMW have a tool for measuring chain wear without stripping the engine. Instructions in the packet.

It's basically a copy of the standard tensioner but with a spring loaded rod inside it that pokes out of the bolt head. 5mm is the spec for a good N47/57 cam chain. If it doesn't poke out, the chain is done.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-7034-.../dp/B07CTB1GH2

[Walrad]

Originally Posted by barf

No, go for a proper stage1. Mostly the problems are more related to early N47 and you have N47N.
If you drive so little your intake manifold might get clogged so get that properly cleaned and you will get better performance.
Most important is to do regular oil change intervals 10-13k km or every year and you will be fine.
Start thinking about replacing the chain at 150k, max would be 200k and absolute must is 250k.

yes I have the n47n edition, so that's good to hear!
I drive normal length a year, around 15-16k km a year. I bought the car last year and it hasn't been driven much.
yes I am careful about oil changes, I changed the oil now in December after driving 7-8k km and will change it again in 3-4k km when I do my annual service. I don't postpone oil changes for more than 15k km.

thanks

[Walrad]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

If you're worried about the chain, BMW have a tool for measuring chain wear without stripping the engine. Instructions in the packet.

It's basically a copy of the standard tensioner but with a spring loaded rod inside it that pokes out of the bolt head. 5mm is the spec for a good N47/57 cam chain. If it doesn't poke out, the chain is done.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-7034-.../dp/B07CTB1GH2

thank you!

[speedbirdblack]

Originally Posted by Walrad

Hey guys,

I am contemplating chip tuning my 320d, stage 1, it has done approximately 90000 km. I haven't done dpf or egr delete yet, because they haven't given me any problems yet. But I am worried about the timing chain on the n47 engines. I drive the car in normal manners just want it to be a bit more responsive. I haven't done any tuning on cars. Should I be worried when it comes down to the timing chain? What are you guys thoughts overall about stage 1 chip tuning?

Thanks in advance.

My chain snapped arround 120k Kms. The car developed cold start rattling noise for about 15 seconds when it was arround 90k. I completely ignored it. Mine also 2012 model year.

At 127k kms now, egr and dpf started throwing some codes. Also thinking of removing them with stage 1 remap.

[TurboWeasel]

Rattling means the chain tensioner has run out of travel to take up the worn chain slack. Never ignore the rattle.

Another issue is the chain oiling jets getting blocked from neglect, so regular oil changes are key.

[Walrad]

Originally Posted by speedbirdblack

My chain snapped arround 120k Kms. The car developed cold start rattling noise for about 15 seconds when it was arround 90k. I completely ignored it. Mine also 2012 model year.

At 127k kms now, egr and dpf started throwing some codes. Also thinking of removing them with stage 1 remap.

That is a bummer! Did it damaged the enige alot? I always listen to the engine while driving and starting it, luckily I haven't heard anything like that so far. I hope I never hear it either! Lol! I try to change the oil as often as possible, max 15k, not a 1 km more. But so far I have changed the oil before that! I think that will help preventing the chain to snap!

If the car is throwing codes, then you should delete them. I had some issues with the egr and was a hassle and not the least costly to fix it. I did stage 1 without deleting the egr and dpf because they are working fine so far. I might delete the egr if it gives me more problems. The dpf delete is hassle, at least for me here in Norway, I need to get downpipe, and every second year to "approve" the car here in Norway I need to fit back the old dpf. I don't want that hassle..

[speedbirdblack]

Originally Posted by Walrad

That is a bummer! Did it damaged the enige alot? I always listen to the engine while driving and starting it, luckily I haven't heard anything like that so far. I hope I never hear it either! Lol! I try to change the oil as often as possible, max 15k, not a 1 km more. But so far I have changed the oil before that! I think that will help preventing the chain to snap!

If the car is throwing codes, then you should delete them. I had some issues with the egr and was a hassle and not the least costly to fix it. I did stage 1 without deleting the egr and dpf because they are working fine so far. I might delete the egr if it gives me more problems. The dpf delete is hassle, at least for me here in Norway, I need to get downpipe, and every second year to "approve" the car here in Norway I need to fit back the old dpf. I don't want that hassle..

Yes. It did damage the engine quite a lot. Head, engine block, crank and pistons were only usable parts.
Everything else has been replaced.
I changed oil every 10k kms from the day one.
Used Catrol fully synthetic early days and switched to Shell fully synthetic latter part.

However my occasional spirited driving style must have contributed or accelerated to the jeopardy.

Not deleting dpf make sense in your case.
However I have a strong feeling that egr and dpf has a correlation.

[Mikenett]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

If you're worried about the chain, BMW have a tool for measuring chain wear without stripping the engine. Instructions in the packet.

It's basically a copy of the standard tensioner but with a spring loaded rod inside it that pokes out of the bolt head. 5mm is the spec for a good N47/57 cam chain. If it doesn't poke out, the chain is done.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-7034-.../dp/B07CTB1GH2

I didn't know this existed.
Thank you for sharing the link.