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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N20, N26, B46, B48 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N20 GFB DV+ installed without moving or touching the turbo! +quick tutorial
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      04-20-2018, 06:17 PM   #111
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Whilst doing some research, I realized there was a big section on the flutter thing right there in the instructions. Just wanted to share with everyone who might be worried about the safety of it. Keep in mind, it doesn't talk about when it's bad. Remember, if you install the DV+ on the car and it "flutters" while on the throttle or after a high RPM/high boost throttle release, it is likely compressor surge. Additionally, further research shows that it mainly happens to those with a bigger, aftermarket FMIC or turbo, which explains why some are getting flutter and some are not.



The DV+ can be configured in two different ways, depending on your desired outcome. Fitting the DV+ with the main spring installed as shown on the previous page can be thought of as a “Sport” mode, offering the best possible throttle response and boost recovery during on/off throttle applications (i.e. during gearshift with a manual transmission).

Using the main spring means the DV+ can open and close progressively in response to how much boost pressure is present, unlike the factory diverter which just opens fully regardless of whether there is boost to vent or not. Because this operation method is different from the factory diverter, it is not unusual or detrimental to hear a different sound from the intake when lifting off the throttle at low RPM, especially if you have an aftermarket intake or a larger turbo installed.

Additionally, in some cases this different operating method may be mis-interpreted by the ECU as a faulty diverter valve (it simply sees the diverter doing something different, it doesn’t know the diverter is actually attempting to improve throttle response), resulting in fault code P2261 being recorded. This does not indicate that the DV+ is faulty, nor does it cause any issues to the turbo or engine.

If the fault code or different sound occurs and you want to prevent it, or you simply want a direct replacement for the factory diverter that is stronger, holds boost better, and lasts longer, you can choose
to install the DV+ WITHOUT the main spring behind the piston. This configuration can be thought of as an improved “Standard” mode, which behaves just like the factory diverter, but with the added benefits of better boost-holding, strength, and reliability.
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      04-24-2018, 05:49 PM   #112
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Okay, so I understand this has been beaten to death for some, so if you don't care about learning more details on the flutter "issue", then read no further.

I finally got back a very detailed response from GFB (Delay was due to the original engineer being out of the office) and it was incredibly detailed. This really helped solidify and confirm the whole debate on harmful vs. non-harmful. If you really don't want to read further, we can again confirm that the flutter is not bad.

Now I'm gonna say this before ilivas comes in and grills me for it; Yes, the engineer does use the surge in many places I would use flutter. So I will take fault for asserting that we classified it as flutter and not surge. I was purely misinformed on wording, but I can say with confidence that "flutter" is an acceptable term to describe the low-pressure surge. So, at least I was 50% correct? Lol.

Without further ado....


*****GFB RESPONSE*****

Hi Justin,

This is Brett, I’m covering Jonathan’s emails today. I can certainly help with a detailed explanation of surge.

Your summary below about the conditions where surge does and does not occur is spot on and the turbo is not in any danger. Broadly, compressor surge occurs when the airflow is low, and the pressure is high – this causes the compressor blades to momentarily “slip” in the air, which briefly reduces the boost pressure, the blades re-grip, pressure goes back up, then the blades slip again and the process repeats and creates the fluttering sound.

Compressor surge can occur during acceleration when the turbo is spooling hard early in the rev range when airflow is relatively low, this condition is quite common with a factory turbo that is running higher boost than usual, and it corrects itself as the RPM and hence the airflow increases, bringing the turbo out of the surge region. This effect is entirely unrelated to the diverter valve, it is a function of engine/turbo combination and the boost mapping. Modern engines and turbos can spool to very high boost pressures at very low RPM compared to turbo engines from 10 years ago, so this issue is more common these days, especially when it is so easy to flash tune to increase boost and performance.

Surge also occurs when lifting off the throttle, which rapidly slows the airflow, and it is the diverter valve’s job to prevent surge under these conditions. This is the point where it is worth explaining the function of the DV+ and the reason for its behavior. The factory diverter is concerned entirely with eliminating any chance of hearing what is deemed an unpleasant noise in the form of compressor surge, and it does this by simply opening 100% at the slightest negative throttle movement, regardless of whether there is boost or not. This behavior is detrimental to throttle response, as the intercooler is completely de-pressurised whenever the throttle is even slightly closed. It is possible to improve throttle response by using the momentum of the turbo to hold a small amount of boost in the intercooler for a short amount of time – upon re-opening the throttle if the intercooler is still at 2-3psi as opposed to zero, you will hit peak boost measurably faster. It also prevents the large “steps” in power delivery when modulating the throttle mid corner as the factory diverter is alternately dropping all boost, then building it back up. The DV+ uses the ECU signal AND boost pressure to determine how far to open. Above 10psi, it opens fully. Once boost has been evacuated below 10psi, the piston will start to close, which helps retain boost pressure longer than the factory diverter.

Under low RPM conditions, sometimes this effect of the DV+ can cause compressor surge, but because it is always at less than 10psi, and typically at low RPM, the forces on the turbo generated by such surge absolutely pale into insignificance compared to what the turbo must survive when the engine is on boost, let alone the effects of running higher than stock boost. Even different driving styles affect the loads the turbo suffers far more than surge at low RPM. Consider the heat, thrust forces, and shaft RPM at full throttle and high RPM, then throw in an ECU tune with 6psi more boost and see how much higher those numbers go and you will see that the turbo has bigger things than surge to worry about.

It is also worth noting that BMW, along with Audi, VW, and Mercedes all have engines now that have completely eliminated the diverter valve (all new BMW B-series engines included), with no detriment to the turbo. They have used other methods to mask the fluttering sound from the public instead.

So yes, compressor surge can inflict additional alternating loads on the turbo, but in terms of severity it is worst when it occurs under full load (because the turbo is already dealing with the heat, shaft speed, and high pressure, with surge thrown on top). If it occurs on lift off at full boost/high RPM it is possible but unlikely to cause physical damage or accelerated wear unless the turbo is already highly stressed – the number of cases of turbo failure that could be attributed directly to surge is very, very small. Surge that occurs at low RPM and boost really is quite irrelevant. If compressor surge at low RPM was a killer of turbos, there would be many tens of thousands of cars affected, and every Nissan SR20DET ever built would have blown the turbo 100 times over by now!

I hope this helps, I’m happy to discuss any of these points in more detail if required.


Cheers,

Brett Turner | Design Engineer
GFB Go Fast Bits
No 2, Norman Street, Peakhurst 2210
T +61 2 9534 0099 | F +61 2 9534 3999
E brett.turner@gfb.com.au | W www.gfb.com.au
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      04-24-2018, 07:03 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Okay, so I understand this has been beaten to death for some, so if you don't care about learning more details on the flutter "issue", then read no further.

I finally got back a very detailed response from GFB (Delay was due to the original engineer being out of the office) and it was incredibly detailed. This really helped solidify and confirm the whole debate on harmful vs. non-harmful. If you really don't want to read further, we can again confirm that the flutter is not bad.

Now I'm gonna say this before ilivas comes in and grills me for it; Yes, the engineer does use the surge in many places I would use flutter. So I will take fault for asserting that we classified it as flutter and not surge. I was purely misinformed on wording, but I can say with confidence that "flutter" is an acceptable term to describe the low-pressure surge. So, at least I was 50% correct? Lol.

Without further ado....


*****GFB RESPONSE*****

Hi Justin,

This is Brett, I’m covering Jonathan’s emails today. I can certainly help with a detailed explanation of surge.

Your summary below about the conditions where surge does and does not occur is spot on and the turbo is not in any danger. Broadly, compressor surge occurs when the airflow is low, and the pressure is high – this causes the compressor blades to momentarily “slip” in the air, which briefly reduces the boost pressure, the blades re-grip, pressure goes back up, then the blades slip again and the process repeats and creates the fluttering sound.

Compressor surge can occur during acceleration when the turbo is spooling hard early in the rev range when airflow is relatively low, this condition is quite common with a factory turbo that is running higher boost than usual, and it corrects itself as the RPM and hence the airflow increases, bringing the turbo out of the surge region. This effect is entirely unrelated to the diverter valve, it is a function of engine/turbo combination and the boost mapping. Modern engines and turbos can spool to very high boost pressures at very low RPM compared to turbo engines from 10 years ago, so this issue is more common these days, especially when it is so easy to flash tune to increase boost and performance.

Surge also occurs when lifting off the throttle, which rapidly slows the airflow, and it is the diverter valve’s job to prevent surge under these conditions. This is the point where it is worth explaining the function of the DV+ and the reason for its behavior. The factory diverter is concerned entirely with eliminating any chance of hearing what is deemed an unpleasant noise in the form of compressor surge, and it does this by simply opening 100% at the slightest negative throttle movement, regardless of whether there is boost or not. This behavior is detrimental to throttle response, as the intercooler is completely de-pressurised whenever the throttle is even slightly closed. It is possible to improve throttle response by using the momentum of the turbo to hold a small amount of boost in the intercooler for a short amount of time – upon re-opening the throttle if the intercooler is still at 2-3psi as opposed to zero, you will hit peak boost measurably faster. It also prevents the large “steps” in power delivery when modulating the throttle mid corner as the factory diverter is alternately dropping all boost, then building it back up. The DV+ uses the ECU signal AND boost pressure to determine how far to open. Above 10psi, it opens fully. Once boost has been evacuated below 10psi, the piston will start to close, which helps retain boost pressure longer than the factory diverter.

Under low RPM conditions, sometimes this effect of the DV+ can cause compressor surge, but because it is always at less than 10psi, and typically at low RPM, the forces on the turbo generated by such surge absolutely pale into insignificance compared to what the turbo must survive when the engine is on boost, let alone the effects of running higher than stock boost. Even different driving styles affect the loads the turbo suffers far more than surge at low RPM. Consider the heat, thrust forces, and shaft RPM at full throttle and high RPM, then throw in an ECU tune with 6psi more boost and see how much higher those numbers go and you will see that the turbo has bigger things than surge to worry about.

It is also worth noting that BMW, along with Audi, VW, and Mercedes all have engines now that have completely eliminated the diverter valve (all new BMW B-series engines included), with no detriment to the turbo. They have used other methods to mask the fluttering sound from the public instead.

So yes, compressor surge can inflict additional alternating loads on the turbo, but in terms of severity it is worst when it occurs under full load (because the turbo is already dealing with the heat, shaft speed, and high pressure, with surge thrown on top). If it occurs on lift off at full boost/high RPM it is possible but unlikely to cause physical damage or accelerated wear unless the turbo is already highly stressed – the number of cases of turbo failure that could be attributed directly to surge is very, very small. Surge that occurs at low RPM and boost really is quite irrelevant. If compressor surge at low RPM was a killer of turbos, there would be many tens of thousands of cars affected, and every Nissan SR20DET ever built would have blown the turbo 100 times over by now!

I hope this helps, I’m happy to discuss any of these points in more detail if required.


Cheers,

Brett Turner | Design Engineer
GFB Go Fast Bits
No 2, Norman Street, Peakhurst 2210
T +61 2 9534 0099 | F +61 2 9534 3999
E brett.turner@gfb.com.au | W www.gfb.com.au
So I was wrong, it is compressor surge, it's just not harmful. Fair enough!
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      04-24-2018, 08:21 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
So I was wrong, it is compressor surge, it's just not harmful. Fair enough!
Correct. Surge at very low boost is “harmful” but it’s so insignificant that you will probably never know. Even surge at high boost, turbos can withstand it for quite a long time. I know plenty of people who are boosting 45-50psi with no bypass valve for many thousands of miles. A lot of modern turbos have anti-surge housings. Little holes drilled in the compressor inlet. This helps it as well.

I actually have DV+ in possession now. Hopefully, I’ll install this weekend with the stronger spring. In case there are leaks.

Last edited by ilivas; 04-24-2018 at 08:29 PM..
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      04-24-2018, 09:14 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilivas View Post
Correct. Surge at very low boost is “harmful” but it’s so insignificant that you will probably never know. Even surge at high boost, turbos can withstand it for quite a long time. I know plenty of people who are boosting 45-50psi with no bypass valve for many thousands of miles. A lot of modern turbos have anti-surge housings. Little holes drilled in the compressor inlet. This helps it as well.

I actually have DV+ in possession now. Hopefully, I’ll install this weekend with the stronger spring. In case there are leaks.
Keep us posted on install and honest review of performance and drivability differences. I have mine in hand too but probably wont get a chance to install this weekend... will have to be the following.
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      04-24-2018, 10:09 PM   #116
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I should probably do a pressure test at 20 psi and see if the stock valve is being pushed open at all and leaking at that pressure.
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      04-24-2018, 10:21 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilivas View Post
I should probably do a pressure test at 20 psi and see if the stock valve is being pushed open at all and leaking at that pressure.

That would be very informative for the group.

I'll be honest, I'm on the fence about installing the spring or not. Worst case, I spent $135 on a stronger valve that operates as stock. Not too worried about it.

I just know Ill be disappointed if drivability is affected to the point of annoyance. I daily drive my car... a lot. Minimum 80mi per day, M-F. If I don't like the way it feels, it will be another weekend away when I can take it all back a part. I'm torn.

Interested to hear another review once you get yours installed.
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      04-25-2018, 12:02 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
That would be very informative for the group.

I'll be honest, I'm on the fence about installing the spring or not. Worst case, I spent $135 on a stronger valve that operates as stock. Not too worried about it.

I just know Ill be disappointed if drivability is affected to the point of annoyance. I daily drive my car... a lot. Minimum 80mi per day, M-F. If I don't like the way it feels, it will be another weekend away when I can take it all back a part. I'm torn.

Interested to hear another review once you get yours installed.
I doubt it’s going to affect driveability since it’s still recirculating the pressure instead of venting to the atmosphere. Even if it does. Those things can be tuned out by a good tuner and a reflash.
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      04-25-2018, 12:59 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
That would be very informative for the group.

I'll be honest, I'm on the fence about installing the spring or not. Worst case, I spent $135 on a stronger valve that operates as stock. Not too worried about it.

I just know Ill be disappointed if drivability is affected to the point of annoyance. I daily drive my car... a lot. Minimum 80mi per day, M-F. If I don't like the way it feels, it will be another weekend away when I can take it all back a part. I'm torn.

Interested to hear another review once you get yours installed.
Yeah, if you decide to not go with the stronger spring, you won't see the performance benefits, but you will enjoy knowing that your DV+ will likely not fail under high boost like my stock started to. No changes to tuning, but wasn't making my boost target any longer. Swapped it out and no issues since. Once it starts to get bad, you'll notice the hissing, CEL, etc.

That being said, if you don't like the noise and don't care to miss out on the performance benefits, then I'd just do it without the stronger spring. At the end of the day, you'll reduce your chance of failure and frustration.
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      05-05-2018, 10:48 PM   #120
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Got mine installed. Not the easiest or most fun but certainly doable (without removing turbo / loosening manifold).

I went ahead and used the new spring. Hoping drivability isn't negatively impacted, don't want to take apart again!
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      05-06-2018, 12:07 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Got mine installed. Not the easiest or most fun but certainly doable (without removing turbo / loosening manifold).

I went ahead and used the new spring. Hoping drivability isn't negatively impacted, don't want to take apart again!
Unless you have a fake or installed it wrong, it can't/won't.

Congrats!
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      05-06-2018, 12:52 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Unless you have a fake or installed it wrong, it can't/won't.

Congrats!
Thanks. Happy to have gotten it done.

Definitely not a fake, bought from a forum sponsor.

Hoping I didn't install wrong! I guess Ill find out this afternoon... is there really much you can mess up? The one part I found odd was the instructions saying to remove the yellow o-ring from stock unit and then I ended up putting it right back in the same spot a few steps later... is this correct!? Better to find out now while everything is a part. I assembled it exactly as the picture diagram showed. Another question... on the DV+ that you slide into place first... what keeps the main piston (red) from falling out? Just kinda felt like I laid it in there and hope for the best. Does that make sense?! Might not be describing it well... I did lube the main piston as well like instructions said.


About to attempt the charge pipe / TIC and FMIC install by myself (with wife nearby for moral support). Might have to call my neighbor over...

Any last minute tips or recommendations from anyone? Are there any DIY's or step by step PDFs from manufacturers for either CP/TIC or FMIC installs?

Just kinda been winging it so far.
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      05-06-2018, 05:41 PM   #123
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i've just had to replace my turbo as i had really bad waste gate rattle, i fitted the dv+ at the same time. i haven't been able to drive the car yet as i have ended up with some electrical problems. i have the mishimoto intake aswell.
one thing i noticed on the standard bov was that it would release boost even on gentle throttle causing the car to bog down, i hope now that i have a new turbo and the dv+ that this will have been resolved.
i will be interested to see the difference as i have had a remap done and i don't think the old turbo was upto the job.
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      05-06-2018, 08:35 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Thanks. Happy to have gotten it done.

Definitely not a fake, bought from a forum sponsor.

Hoping I didn't install wrong! I guess Ill find out this afternoon... is there really much you can mess up? The one part I found odd was the instructions saying to remove the yellow o-ring from stock unit and then I ended up putting it right back in the same spot a few steps later... is this correct!? Better to find out now while everything is a part. I assembled it exactly as the picture diagram showed. Another question... on the DV+ that you slide into place first... what keeps the main piston (red) from falling out? Just kinda felt like I laid it in there and hope for the best. Does that make sense?! Might not be describing it well... I did lube the main piston as well like instructions said.


About to attempt the charge pipe / TIC and FMIC install by myself (with wife nearby for moral support). Might have to call my neighbor over...

Any last minute tips or recommendations from anyone? Are there any DIY's or step by step PDFs from manufacturers for either CP/TIC or FMIC installs?

Just kinda been winging it so far.
It'd be hard to install it wrong lol. Once you have the FMIC in, don't be surprised if you get the flutter lol.. If you're tuned as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sap1000 View Post
i've just had to replace my turbo as i had really bad waste gate rattle, i fitted the dv+ at the same time. i haven't been able to drive the car yet as i have ended up with some electrical problems. i have the mishimoto intake aswell.
one thing i noticed on the standard bov was that it would release boost even on gentle throttle causing the car to bog down, i hope now that i have a new turbo and the dv+ that this will have been resolved.
i will be interested to see the difference as i have had a remap done and i don't think the old turbo was upto the job.
You will see that go away for sure. DV+ holds boost really well and safely.
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      05-07-2018, 02:04 PM   #125
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Installing tomorrow! Had a ton of crap to do and didn't have the time. My friend did grind the tool and it's perfect. I'll make a DIY VIDEO tomorrow.
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      05-07-2018, 05:24 PM   #126
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Installing tomorrow! Had a ton of crap to do and didn't have the time. My friend did grind the tool and it's perfect. I'll make a DIY VIDEO tomorrow.
Please please make this video.
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      05-07-2018, 06:19 PM   #127
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Doing it now. The inner bolt I can't even put in! Jesus
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      05-07-2018, 11:27 PM   #128
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Thanks Steve sspade for the tip getting that bolt in... beer's on me whenever you're in NYC



Alright guys got it installed. Here's my take on the install and it's a bitch of an install. I did it with the charge pipe installed. If I was installing an aftermarket bit it might give more space to work but with the way the OEM diverter goes back in to the GFB part I don't see it giving anymore space.


- Remove the intake
- Disconnect the plug to the waste gate
- T45 torx bit to remove the two bolts off the waste gate (work the one by the fender first then the one by the engine)
- Swing the waste gate back
- Disconnect the diverter valve
- Remove the three 4mm bolts off the diverter valve, pull the valve back and rotate it out it (do it slowly, take your time)
- Remove the oem valve/spring and the plastic surrounding on the oem diverter
- Put the GFP part with the spring/piston against the turbo housing
- Put one 5mm GFP bolt in the bolt hole closest to the engine into the oem valve

... the tricky part... work the oem diverter into that crevis with the bolt there. I found it a bit easier to have the bolt all the way in and then back it out slowly while getting the oem valve to line up with the GFB part. Keep moving the pieces around and you will eventually get it in and the bolt lined up. Once that is done then you can take the grinded 5mm hex key and tighten up that bolt. Proceed to install the two other bolts and tighten them all. (use a combo of just the hex bit and a five/six inch extension to get to the bolts) Then just install the waste gate, connect all plugs, install intake and you are done

I did not get any flutter after turning on the car and giving it some light/medium revs in sport/standstill. Tomorrow I will test drive the car.

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      05-08-2018, 09:58 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
Thanks Steve sspade for the tip getting that bolt in... beer's on me whenever you're in NYC



Alright guys got it installed. Here's my take on the install and it's a bitch of an install. I did it with the charge pipe installed. If I was installing an aftermarket bit it might give more space to work but with the way the OEM diverter goes back in to the GFB part I don't see it giving anymore space.


- Remove the intake
- Disconnect the plug to the waste gate
- T45 torx bit to remove the two bolts off the waste gate (work the one by the fender first then the one by the engine)
- Swing the waste gate back
- Disconnect the diverter valve
- Remove the three 4mm bolts off the diverter valve, pull the valve back and rotate it out it (do it slowly, take your time)
- Remove the oem valve/spring and the plastic surrounding on the oem diverter
- Put the GFP part with the spring/piston against the turbo housing
- Put one 5mm GFP bolt in the bolt hole closest to the engine into the oem valve

... the tricky part... work the oem diverter into that crevis with the bolt there. I found it a bit easier to have the bolt all the way in and then back it out slowly while getting the oem valve to line up with the GFB part. Keep moving the pieces around and you will eventually get it in and the bolt lined up. Once that is done then you can take the grinded 5mm hex key and tighten up that bolt. Proceed to install the two other bolts and tighten them all. (use a combo of just the hex bit and a five/six inch extension to get to the bolts) Then just install the waste gate, connect all plugs, install intake and you are done

I did not get any flutter after turning on the car and giving it some light/medium revs in sport/standstill. Tomorrow I will test drive the car.

Great write up. What other mods do you have? Trying to find the correlation with the flutter here.
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      05-08-2018, 12:58 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
Thanks Steve sspade for the tip getting that bolt in... beer's on me whenever you're in NYC



Alright guys got it installed. Here's my take on the install and it's a bitch of an install. I did it with the charge pipe installed. If I was installing an aftermarket bit it might give more space to work but with the way the OEM diverter goes back in to the GFB part I don't see it giving anymore space.


- Remove the intake
- Disconnect the plug to the waste gate
- T45 torx bit to remove the two bolts off the waste gate (work the one by the fender first then the one by the engine)
- Swing the waste gate back
- Disconnect the diverter valve
- Remove the three 4mm bolts off the diverter valve, pull the valve back and rotate it out it (do it slowly, take your time)
- Remove the oem valve/spring and the plastic surrounding on the oem diverter
- Put the GFP part with the spring/piston against the turbo housing
- Put one 5mm GFP bolt in the bolt hole closest to the engine into the oem valve

[SIZE="3"]... the tricky part... work the oem diverter into that crevis with the bolt there. I found it a bit easier to have the bolt all the way in and then back it out slowly while getting the oem valve to line up with the GFB part. Keep moving the pieces around and you will eventually get it in and the bolt lined up. Once that is done then you can take the grinded 5mm hex key and tighten up that bolt. Proceed to install the two other bolts and tighten them all. (use a combo of just the hex bit and a five/six inch extension to get to the bolts) Then just install the waste gate, connect all plugs, install intake and you are done[/SIZE]

I did not get any flutter after turning on the car and giving it some light/medium revs in sport/standstill. Tomorrow I will test drive the car.

Great write up. What other mods do you have? Trying to find the correlation with the flutter here.
Im still trying to determine if I have the flutter or not... havent paid much attention although Ive noticed the throttle response is definitely sharper. Happy with the upgrade.
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      05-08-2018, 01:15 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Im still trying to determine if I have the flutter or not... havent paid much attention although Ive noticed the throttle response is definitely sharper. Happy with the upgrade.
I need to get around to testing which part in conjunction with the DV+ is causing it. As mentioned by the engineer, it usually is a result of a bigger FMIC or turbo, of which I have both. I initially got it with the stock turbo as well before upgrading. I'm also curious if it's BM3 or just any tune that is bringing it out. I could flash stock and test to see if I still get it, but can't do a stock FMIC test. Regardless, no harm and I enjoy the noise. I really only can hear it with the windows down and even moreso when going through the canyons.
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2013 F30 328i: MHI Big Turbo, GFB DV+, Mishimoto CAI, ER TIC/CP/Catless DP, AWE Touring Quad Exhaust w/ Resonated Midpipe, NGK LI Plugs, BM3 with PTF Stage 2 91 AGG Tune, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, Solowerks S1 Coilovers, and DEPO/M-Sport Retrofit
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      05-08-2018, 01:18 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Im still trying to determine if I have the flutter or not... havent paid much attention although Ive noticed the throttle response is definitely sharper. Happy with the upgrade.
I need to get around to testing which part in conjunction with the DV+ is causing it. As mentioned by the engineer, it usually is a result of a bigger FMIC or turbo, of which I have both. I initially got it with the stock turbo as well before upgrading. I'm also curious if it's BM3 or just any tune that is bringing it out. I could flash stock and test to see if I still get it, but can't do a stock FMIC test. Regardless, no harm and I enjoy the noise. I really only can hear it with the windows down and even moreso when going through the canyons.
Im going to check this evening after work when I can get the old lady to hold the phone near engine while I raise and release RPM.
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