[fortythirtyfive]

I know I've done one of these posts before.. but that was a concept design.

I finally finished my custom headlight build after 18 months work..

The idea was pretty simple, repaint interior trims matte black and alpine white, create a robust led system that could stand up to the temperatures and place them behind the DRL plastics.

I have seen a few people install addressable solutions for their headlights but unfortunately they've used SK6812 led chips. These are great for interior illumination but not worthy of a headlight, they're dim due to heat management and last anywhere between 8-12 months when applied to something like a car (they have a built in microchip to control them which takes heat damage). My solution was to use bullet proof UCS chips with a microchip placed externally on the PCB board, this allows the amperage to be cranked up resulting in much brighter chips and long life spans.



I ended up buying a second pair of adaptive headlights (crash damaged) to steal parts from so that I could prepare everything for a relatively quick install. Downtime ended up being just over 2 weeks.

Same technique as last time to remove the lenses so I won't bore you with that. This time I also dismantled the beam splitter and painted it blue.






I also did a split paint design on the eyebrow trim. I had seen bendainteriors do it on their M4 and 235i before which was always my goal, I took it to the next step and dropped a 435 decal in there seen as the BMW Adaptive LED statement was now painted over




The rest of the journey was just refitting them and plenty of testing



I took the chance to install multiple Gortex oneway breather patches, specifically designed to let headlights exhale moisture and pressure changes



I improved the wiring system too and cut out around 70% of the junk wiring I had previously. I also picked up some sleeving to braid the wires in keeping it neat and tidy









Whilst I had access to the upright support bars I also removed them to paint, I had previously wrapped them but found the paint was popping off and corroding from all the British weather and salty roads..



Finally I sealed these using a makeshift oven.. otherwise known as a huge cardboard box, a cardboard tube, a heatgun and a temperature gauge. I got the box stabilised up to 105c, pushed Morimoto Retrorubber butyl into the lens channels for the headlight housing, placed the entire headlight into the box for 45 seconds to get the butyl soft before taking them back out to seat the lens. Then I placed them back in for a solid 5-7 minutes, took them out and installed Morimoto compression clips which squeeze the lens inwards.

The Retrorubber butyl is probably some of the best I have come across. Traditional butyl rope just doesn't live up to expectations, it's always gummy/soft even after cooling down. Retrorubber does become super soft and goey under the right heat but when cooled it's as tough as post cured rubber. There's no shifting it and it creates a perfect seal.

[toxik]

your custom mods are always top tier!

[greyf36]

not only they look great but man you are BRAVE...cutting open and messing around with something worth over $3k ...much respect!!!

[eff32fl]

That's pretty freaking awesome! I'm assuming these use external power to the fuse box? So are you taking orders if someone can provide the icons lol.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by eff32fl

That's pretty freaking awesome! I'm assuming these use external power to the fuse box? So are you taking orders if someone can provide the icons lol.

I was going to but the hassle of trying to breach a firewall grommet again after upgrading to the icons put me off a bit.

I ended up using a waterproof fuse carrier and wiring it straight to the battery terminal in the engine bay, I believe it's a T45 or something to undo the post, I just slotted a crimped fork connector under it and tightened it back down.

[fortythirtyfive]

I should also add we've had temps dip as low as -2c and there's been ZERO condensation.

Even before I cut these open I would typically see a small amount, usually after driving but also sometimes just from letting the engine idle. I'm going to try and make a few longer drives to make sure I've eradicated any condensation.. but for now these Gortex patches are working flawlessly.

[Yam_440i]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

I should also add we've had temps dip as low as -2c and there's been ZERO condensation.

Even before I cut these open I would typically see a small amount, usually after driving but also sometimes just from letting the engine idle. I'm going to try and make a few longer drives to make sure I've eradicated any condensation.. but for now these Gortex patches are working flawlessly.

That is fantastic

Could you specify where you stuck those gortex patches?

I have some modified headlights, and I get condensation under heavy rain. I've screwed gortex breather plug on the top headlight cap, but it's not getting rid of condensation.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by Yam_440i

That is fantastic

Could you specify where you stuck those gortex patches?

I have some modified headlights, and I get condensation under heavy rain. I've screwed gortex breather plug on the top headlight cap, but it's not getting rid of condensation.

EMTuning have some imported to sell https://www.emtuning.co.uk/product/3...ather-patches/

I stuck one high on the back of the housing as well as one lower down, the idea being any lower pressure can escape immediately meanwhile any heat can escape through the top membrane (because heat rises).

I will admit after giving it a wash today I got some condensation in the passenger side headlight after 5-10 minutes of idling when I had finished, I'm guessing the Gortex patch was damp or something not allowing it to breathe? The drivers side lens stayed perfectly clear which would sort of debunk that idea so I'm not totally sure why.

.. I'm pretty sure this was self inflicted though; the outer part of the lens was condensating too which I wiped away, similar to how windscreens often condensate on the outside of the glass when you first get in. Normally I would have seen condensation by now just from the cold temps and heavy rainfall we had such as yesterday so I'd still highly recommend them.

The reason most people see condensation after modding lights is usually due to the imbalance of extra heat, even though most believe it's down to a non OEM seal. It only takes a minor difference to tip the table and cause pressure issues (causing the atmospheric condensation).

[Yam_440i]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

EMTuning have some imported to sell https://www.emtuning.co.uk/product/3...ather-patches/

I stuck one high on the back of the housing as well as one lower down, the idea being any lower pressure can escape immediately meanwhile any heat can escape through the top membrane (because heat rises).

I will admit after giving it a wash today I got some condensation in the passenger side headlight after 5-10 minutes of idling when I had finished, I'm guessing the Gortex patch was damp or something not allowing it to breathe? The drivers side lens stayed perfectly clear which would sort of debunk that idea so I'm not totally sure why.

.. I'm pretty sure this was self inflicted though; the outer part of the lens was condensating too which I wiped away, similar to how windscreens often condensate on the outside of the glass when you first get in. Normally I would have seen condensation by now just from the cold temps and heavy rainfall we had such as yesterday so I'd still highly recommend them.

The reason most people see condensation after modding lights is usually due to the imbalance of extra heat, even though most believe it's down to a non OEM seal. It only takes a minor difference to tip the table and cause pressure issues (causing the atmospheric condensation).

Thank you mate, lots of helpful knowledge here.

My lights are currently installed in my car, so I don't really want to drill from the back and have debris get stuck inside my headlight housing.

Do you think making a hole for a breather patch in the back cover would suffice in your opinion?

Thanks

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by Yam_440i

Thank you mate, lots of helpful knowledge here.

My lights are currently installed in my car, so I don't really want to drill from the back and have debris get stuck inside my headlight housing.

Do you think making a hole for a breather patch in the back cover would suffice in your opinion?

Thanks

I used a Christmas tree bit on a drill, technically you could reverse drill it to keep 98% of debris away, technically the bottom of your headlight is way deeper than where the exposed lens shows, so you could in-theory get away with minimal debris.

I need to peel my passenger side liner off again and check the patches though, I had some pretty poor condensation yesterday after a small bit of rain driving, which is what confuses me because I drove through heavy rain for 30-40 minutes with zero misting to begin with.. all of this started after my first car wash.

Until I check the actual back of the headlight though I can't really comment. Once I know I might hit up Gortex for extra ideas (weird as it's only one side). With that said the new LED boards are running 22ma through each one, so they will be producing a fair amount of extra heat.. which as we all know upsets the pressure balance.

[fortythirtyfive]

So I've been relooking at my design plans for the adaptives.. at a push I can fit a 25x25x7mm fan below the OEM DRL boards.. that'll face the projectors and hopefully some of the lens, my plan is to try and piggy back one using the DRL board power.

Hopefully with some air circulating it'll help guide the air to exit via the breather patches much faster, currently it's relying on natural air movement to help guide any moisture towards those patches.

Obviously if you don't have the adaptive icons the design will be slightly different, meaning you'll need to find a new way of dropping a fan in.

[Yam_440i]

Hi Fortythirtyfive

How's the condensation prevention going?

Did it come back?

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by Yam_440i

Hi Fortythirtyfive

How's the condensation prevention going?

Did it come back?

I had an issue where the fans fitted perfectly and cleared it all up, but stopped working after I unplugged them for inspection. Even though the board connector that I'm jumping power from is showing 7V's it's not actually allowing anything else to be drawn on it thanks to really annoying canbus systems.

I did however spot that my drl heatsinks were no longer fully sealing, the 3 screws for each side were stripping the plastic threads. Why Valeo uses self tapping screws on plastic serviceable parts is beyond me, anyway I filled them full of a plastic epoxy, drilled a smaller hole and wound the screws back in until they stopped. The slight condensation that I had has actually been reduced by around 70% so I would presume this was the main issue in my case.