[tomppa]

So, are we back to the starting point for X-drive? Nothing available (except the pricey carrier for camber correction)??
Powerflex and SuperPro bushings discontinued. Kmac bushing questinable product. Motorsport LCA not possible - wouldn't pass the annual inspection...

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by tomppa

So, are we back to the starting point for X-drive? Nothing available (except the pricey carrier for camber correction)??
Powerflex and SuperPro bushings discontinued. Kmac bushing questinable product. Motorsport LCA not possible - wouldn't pass the annual inspection...

You might be able to use the SPL LCAs, but they're not cheap. If their shortest length is RWD length, then they might not work.

My KMAC bushings performed well for ~25k mi with the only issue being the poly urethane creaking noise when the grease dried out. Saw lots of track days, and dirt/gravel roads at speed. The PU was still tight/non-deformed, and the interface between the outer bite washers PU heads, and cylinder and PU inner were all clean/dirt free.

The only thing I can think of why mine were solid and others may have failed are because I specifically shaved down the head of the PU parts with my dremel so the end cap/bite washers would fit perfectly on them and flush with the main cylinder (I had to do this since I got a beta part). This removed all slop and made things fit naturally with each other.

[nickf30]

Farkle is KMac camber bushing still an option for XDrive camber adjustment (looking for something at -2 degree with 1 inch drop on KW) or better start with camber plate? Thrust arm / caster adjustment a must for upto -2 degree?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by nickf30

Farkle is KMac camber bushing still an option for XDrive camber adjustment (looking for something at -2 degree with 1 inch drop on KW) or better start with camber plate? Thrust arm / caster adjustment a must for upto -2 degree?

Depends on which noise you want to put up with. The camber plate will have more general noise (and slight tapping noise on high compression if you listen closely), whereas the kmac bushings will make creaking noises after the grease has dried only heard at crawling speeds when turning the wheels a lot).

[Panda45]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

One of the things I've been chasing last year was how to get more negative camber, without having to resort to noisy camber plates. I started off seeing how much the stock components could be pushed (-0.6deg), followed by Superpro's camber adjustable bushings (-1.1deg). Powerflex also has a camber adjustable bushings, but the adjustment range is the same as Superpros (+/- 0.5deg). RWD owners are lucky enough to be able to use M3/4 lower control arms/wishbones, but it's a bit interesting since you need to put shims between the bushing and subframe mounts. xDrive owners are out of luck with that method as Kies Motorsports found out.

I read in the 2-series forum that K-Mac had made a camber adjustable bushing, and was able to get a larger adjustment range than Superpro or Powerflex. I got in contact with them last August, and found that they did have a design, but it wasn't very well vetted since Australia doesn't get xDrive cars. So after a significant amount of back and forth, and multiple revisions, I feel comfortable that K-Mac is in a place to deliver a solid product to us.

K-Mac's bushing (PN 193616-8H) uses a steel core "main bushing" encapsulated by polyurethane caps and steel washers which go between the subframe mounts. On the opposite side of the subframe mounts go "bite washers," which clamp the bushing in place to hold the camber setting you want. The polyurethane caps are two pieces, so you don't need a press to install this bushing, and you don't need one to remove the original either since K-Mac includes an extraction cup/tool (however I didn't use it and did use a press to remove my old bushings). Adjusting the camber is easier than other solutions too. You just use a regular socket or wrench and turn the head of the included bolt to rotate the bushing/camber setting. No proprietary skinny wrenches required!



All the pieces with "teeth" are meant to bite into the subframe mounts, and the end washers need to be even/on the same plane as the ends of the main bushing so both sets of teeth can bite. There's a washer with tabs to fold and "lock" the nut in place that the main bolt screws into, but I don't recommend using it. Torquing the nut to spec (100Nm / ~74ft-lbs) crushes the washer and you'll need to use a dremel to cut it off. Note that the bolt included isn't a torque to yield bolt, so don't do the extra 90deg after torquing to spec.

So after all was said and done, what camber was I able to get? -1.8deg! This is -1.2deg more over stock, and right in the range I was hoping for (-1.5 to -2deg). It made a very significant difference at the track this weekend and my tire wear and corner grip was noticeably improved. In addition to the two track days I had this past weekend I've also put about 1500mi on them in daily/weekend driving. I'm glad xDrive owners finally have a non-camber plate solution that you can get a respectable amount of negative camber with.

*EDIT* I finally got around to making a video on these:

When you say "push stock components"
What can be done? Move Lower arms?
Got a problem with different cambers on front wheels and would like to know how can I try to do. Thanks!

[SuperLomi]

Adding some recent info here, to keep it all together. Will add more once install is done.

So I received a pair of the camber bushings recently and will be installing this weekend.

The first thing I noticed was the fitment of the outer “washers” doesn’t seem to have been fixed as Farkle thought in his video.

You can see in the images that the profile of the bushing vs the profile of the washer doesn’t match.

This causes the washers to contact the corners of the bushing, and keeps them from laying flush with the inner cylinder. I used some white paint to visualize where they contact (2nd image).

It sounds like Farkle ground the top of the bushing down. I am currently planning to try just adding a chamfer to the corner of the bushing to get them to fit correctly.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

Adding some recent info here, to keep it all together. Will add more once install is done.

So I received a pair of the camber bushings recently and will be installing this weekend.

The first thing I noticed was the fitment of the outer “washers” doesn’t seem to have been fixed as Farkle thought in his video.

You can see in the images that the profile of the bushing vs the profile of the washer doesn’t match.

This causes the washers to contact the corners of the bushing, and keeps them from laying flush with the inner cylinder. I used some white paint to visualize where they contact (2nd image).

It sounds like Farkle ground the top of the bushing down. I am currently planning to try just adding a chamfer to the corner of the bushing to get them to fit correctly.

Hopefully rounding the corners is all you need to do. I needed to grind the whole thing down so the assembly would fit between the ears of the subframe.

[SuperLomi]

Interesting.

When I test fit the washers stick out about a mm or so each side.

I do plant to try fitting first without modifying it to see how it goes. Part of me wonders if it’s intended to be a tight fit, and compressing the bushing some.

[casualDIYer]

I just ordered a set of these as well. Keenly interested in how SuperLomi's install goes.

[SuperLomi]

Well, I ended up going to the Zoo with my wife instead of installing these, so next weekend hopefully.

[Lada-1]

Is this the correct PN for xDrive - https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/produc...inc-193616-8h/ ?

How much camber can I get if HR sport spring are installed?


What (driving experience) can be achieved if combined with the caster ones too https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/produc...ive-193916-7j/ ?

Thanks

[SuperLomi]

Well, got these installed last night, and what a doosie it was. I'll post pictures later, just taking a break from working on the alignment right now.

I did all the work without removing the LCA from the wheel hub.

First of all: I did have to shave down the corners of the bushing to get them to fit. I probably could have went a bit more aggressive, but after a few test fits I got something that works. I uses an orbital sander mounted in my bench vise to do the work.

Second: The metal bushing is sharp, and I did accidentally "shave" slightly a small portion of the inside of one of the bushing caps. We'll see if it causes an issue long term, but I installed it as is. I did this while dry fitting ahead of time.

Third: The pressing cup provided alone was not sufficient. I've seen a few post where people said it didn't come with a "pusher" and that was the case for me - not sure if it's intended to for this kit. Just the cup and a large nut. I attempted to use this alone first, but it ultimately sheared the rubber in the bushing before it moved the bushing itself. I ended up using a 1 1/8" socket as a pusher and it worked well enough.

Fourth: Installing the caps was fairly difficult. I ended up using a ball joint press and another large socket I had to press everything together the final 1/4" or so.

Firth: minor, but the tie rod boots got in the way of installing the bolt in the same orientation as OEM (bolt head to the front) since it's a bit longer, so I installed the other way around. Shouldn't make any difference, really.

Sixth: I saw this mentioned in the 2-series forum as well: there's a small lip on the inside of the subframe underneath where the LCA bushing is. In certain positions the end washer's will contact this lip. This may prevent the bushing from achieving the full range of adjustment, but not by much. The instructions also say to install with the bolt hole in the 12 o'clock position. This position caused an interference with the lip. I found installing the the 4-6 o'clock position to be ideal (if looking towards the front of the car).


Image 1 shows the corner shave. I did end up rounding it over a bit more than what you see here. Image 2 shows the carnage from trying to use the pressing cup as is.

[Lada-1]

Is there a different load on the xdrive front axle while doing the same negative camber by camber plates or by KMAC inner arm bushings? Meaning if the -2° camber achieved by the camber plates was OK(ie tested by driving) would be also OK the -2° camber done through the inner bushing?

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

Well, got these installed last night, and what a doosie it was. I'll post pictures later, just taking a break from working on the alignment right now.

I did all the work without removing the LCA from the wheel hub.

First of all: I did have to shave down the corners of the bushing to get them to fit. I probably could have went a bit more aggressive, but after a few test fits I got something that works. I uses an orbital sander mounted in my bench vise to do the work.

Second: The metal bushing is sharp, and I did accidentally "shave" slightly a small portion of the inside of one of the bushing caps. We'll see if it causes an issue long term, but I installed it as is. I did this while dry fitting ahead of time.

Third: The pressing cup provided alone was not sufficient. I've seen a few post where people said it didn't come with a "pusher" and that was the case for me - not sure if it's intended to for this kit. Just the cup and a large nut. I attempted to use this alone first, but it ultimately sheared the rubber in the bushing before it moved the bushing itself. I ended up using a 1 1/8" socket as a pusher and it worked well enough.

Fourth: Installing the caps was fairly difficult. I ended up using a ball joint press and another large socket I had to press everything together the final 1/4" or so.

Firth: minor, but the tie rod boots got in the way of installing the bolt in the same orientation as OEM (bolt head to the front) since it's a bit longer, so I installed the other way around. Shouldn't make any difference, really.

Sixth: I saw this mentioned in the 2-series forum as well: there's a small lip on the inside of the subframe underneath where the LCA bushing is. In certain positions the end washer's will contact this lip. This may prevent the bushing from achieving the full range of adjustment, but not by much. The instructions also say to install with the bolt hole in the 12 o'clock position. This position caused an interference with the lip. I found installing the the 4-6 o'clock position to be ideal (if looking towards the front of the car).


Image 1 shows the corner shave. I did end up rounding it over a bit more than what you see here. Image 2 shows the carnage from trying to use the pressing cup as is.

This is good info SuperLomi. Thanks. Could you show a photo of the lock nut? I don't get how the 'tri-leaf' nut works. Is the camber set and each petal pressed down once it is?

[SuperLomi]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

This is good info SuperLomi. Thanks. Could you show a photo of the lock nut? I don't get how the 'tri-leaf' nut works. Is the camber set and each petal pressed down once it is?

It’s just intended to keep the nut from backing out. You just bend one tab so it contacts one face of the nut.

I personally didn’t bother with it, as I may be making more alignment adjustments as I dial things in.



One thing I’ll add: I got these because I need to meet classing rules for the SCCA. You can either have camber plates and bushings OR adjustable arms. If you don’t have this restriction I would recommend getting adjustable arms instead of these bushings. A little pricier, but probably a better solution in the long run.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

It’s just intended to keep the nut from backing out. You just bend one tab so it contacts one face of the nut.

I personally didn’t bother with it, as I may be making more alignment adjustments as I dial things in.



One thing I’ll add: I got these because I need to meet classing rules for the SCCA. You can either have camber plates and bushings OR adjustable arms. If you don’t have this restriction I would recommend getting adjustable arms instead of these bushings. A little pricier, but probably a better solution in the long run.

Bit worried the adjustable arms will cause the dreaded Front Axle Pop Out disaster demonstrated by Bryan over at Kies Motorsport, where he famously attempted to use the M3 arms on an X-Drive car and ended up destroying two front axles. Pretty decent of Bryan to share his experience to prevent others from making the same mistake. Not sure if adjustables would cause the same issue or if there are adjustables for X-Drive.

X-Drive - A technology developed hand in hand with Global Warming? Well, might be a coincidence . . . maybe . . .

[SuperLomi]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

Bit worried the adjustable arms will cause the dreaded Front Axle Pop Out disaster demonstrated by Bryan over at Kies Motorsport, where he famously attempted to use the M3 arms on an X-Drive car and ended up destroying two front axles. Pretty decent of Bryan to share his experience to prevent others from making the same mistake. Not sure if adjustables would cause the same issue or if there are adjustables for X-Drive.

X-Drive - A technology developed hand in hand with Global Warming? Well, might be a coincidence . . . maybe . . .

These will do the exact same thing as an adjustable arm. You'll still have that risk if you push it too far.

[pefouque]

Originally Posted by Watsey

Merci pour l'article. J'ai examiné les plaques de camber K-Mac l'année dernière, mais j'ai décidé de ne pas le faire, car j'avais entendu des histoires répétées selon lesquelles leur service à la clientèle était terrible et que les composants n'était pas particulièrement de bonne qualité. Il semble que vous ayez eu une meilleure expérience jusqu'à présent. Être capable d'arriver à -1,8 est un bon résultat, et à peu près exactement ce que j'ai choisi d'utiliser les supports supérieurs Millway (-1.75). Être en mesure de garder le montage supérieur OEM signifie qu'il n'y a pas d'augmentation de NVH ; un gros plus. Une chose que j'ai remarquée en faveur des supports supérieurs du marché secondaire est l'amélioration de la réponse de l'amortisseur en raison de l'absence du roulement de conformité du support supérieur OEM. Avez-vous eu la chance de comparer ? La brousse de cambrure K-Mac semble être un bon produit - probablement pas besoin de changer d'autres composants. Bonne trouvaille :thumbsup :

Bonsoir,
J'ai lu attentivement le post sur l'installation des bras M3...
Je vis en France, et je les ai installés sur ma BMW 340i... mais comme vous l'avez dit, ça touche... quand je traverse des ralentisseurs... J'ai lu que vous aviez enfin installé des amortisseurs Millway dans la version Street... Pouvez-vous me faire part de vos commentaires à ce sujet ? Je crains que cette installation ne fasse trop de bruit lors des voyages en famille... Est-ce supportable ? Quels sont les inconvénients ? L'essieu avant est-il bon avec cette modification ? Je suis très satisfait de la modification avec les bras M3, mais cela apporte quelques inconvénients comme lorsqu'il frotte. J'attends vos commentaires avec impatience. Merci pour vos commentaires.
Pierre

[F31cruisin]

Has anyone installed the rear bushings on a X-drive? I’m sitting pretty low on KW coilovers and my rear tires are getting too much inner wear, hoping these can help with that problem. Anyone have any experience with that?

[casualDIYer]

Well, despite having received my camber bushings in September, winter showed up and enthusiasm for extra camber took a dive. So, with the first track day a mere month away, I finally installed them in April.

I like 'em.

You would think a camber bushing is going to be easier than a camber plate but that was not my experience.The bushing was somewhat of a pain in the a$$ to first get installed, then adjust. But once in, i found there was not a significant change in noise and vibration.

The downside of camber plates is, compared with the OE part, they often have insufficient vibration absorption. I used Millway camber plates and while they were among one of the better camber plate options, especially for the street, they did fall short on vibration damping compared with BMW's top hat. Swapping out the BMW control arm bushing with the K-Mac bushing did have a mild effect but given how small the bushing is, especially when compared to the thrust arm bushing, the change is minor. The shop struggled but I was able to get 2.0 of camber out of the bushings left and right. Yes, a little more is helpful and I believe I got 2.1~2.2 out of the Millway plates. And the plates were more convenient. But until the NVH issue is worked out on aftermarket camber plates, I may stick with the bushings for now.