[ABall]

Evening all, so the weather is getting a little better here in the UK and I've been getting some prices for bringing my car back to looking new. It's the first car I've ever owned that I feel the need to polish so at almost 60 I have to admit non of my previous cars have been nice..... so I don't know how to clean and look after this BMW. Watched a few vids and even got a price for a 2 step paint correction with ceramic coat. 4 days at £260 plus vat per day. I guess it sounds ok but are they really going to be on my car for 8 hrs a day? Now all these recommended cleaning products are pulling me all over the place, figure if I knew what I was doing I could buy myself a Milwaukee orbital polisher and do it myself. Ok so could someone please recommend a site or YouTuber who explains things in detail for someone who's never used a bucket to wash a car or polish one? I have an old Karcher pressure washer and it's got a soap bottle attached but I haven't found out how to do a dilution when your diluting it even more by having fresh water run through the solution. Any pointer would be great.
Thanks.

[Pentland]

You’re entering a rabbit hole.
There are some useful detailing sites e.g. detailingworld however, as you’ve probably ready found, everyone has their own particular favourite products and methods.

The prices you mention seem a little high when you add the vat. I’d expect to pay under £1k for 2 stage and ceramic. You’re right they won’t be working on your car all day but some products will need curing. That said, I had a stage one correction on my F36 and I know the guy spent 10 hours on it only stopping for a sandwich, then it was ceramic coated.

Clearly you can learn about detailing, diy and get a great deal of satisfaction with the results. Equally, you can easily make matters worse.

Personally, I’d get a pro paint correction and learn how to maintain that and wash a car.
(Note, I’d go for a 3 year ceramic rather than 5 year one as after 3 years you may need to get door dings, or other things fixed as well)

My 2p… (others as I said above will preach their own gospel)

Buy:
a snow foam lance or 2 (one for each foam type)
Two buckets with scratch guards
A sheepskin mitt
Wheel woolies.
Car drying towel.


Consider that each time you touch the car, you damage it. So every time you put a cloth, a hand, polish, any contact on the vehicle there is possibility to add a swirl.
With that in mind this is my wash routine:

Spray mist the car with a garden hose. This ”floats off” of any grit, dust etc
Snow foam with a pre wash foam.
While this is dwelling, I clean the wheels with wheel woolies and a microfibre brush. Do not use a bristled brush.
Rinse again with a low pressure hose.
Snow foam with a shampoo foam.
Wipe off foam with a sheepskin wash mitt one panel at a time.
After each panel, rinse the mitt in a bucket of clean water (bucket should have a scratch guard in it) then rinse the mitt in a second bucket of clean water before starting the next panel.
Rinse the car again with a low pressure hose.
Dry the car with a specialist towel (or 2).

So in the above, I’ve touched the car twice, once to clean it, once to dry it. Both times the surface will be pretty much if not properly clean anyway.

You can then add waxes, sealants etc. but remember, every time you touch the car….

I have a black car so you can imagine it will show every mark if it goes wrong.

Good luck

[ABall]

Many thanks for that write up Pentland, I always end up down a bloody rabit hole so i know what you mean! I think I see what the 2 bucket method is then by your explanation thats great. My original thought was eaxctly what you suggest, let a pro sort the paint then I figured I could ask him how to maintain it but then £1200 seems a bit steep and I only planned to keep the car a year or so, I do want it to look like new though. Ive just arranged to see the detailer on Saturday morning so I can have a chat about maybe doing a bit less, a ceramic coat starts at 550 plus vat and that includes a polish so that could be the way forward. now i just have to get through the mine field of chemicals.

[Pentland]

The two bucket method is usually a shampoo bucket and a mitt rinse bucket.
I use two buckets to rinse the mitt. i apply the shampoo by snow foam

[roundy]

You can't go wrong with the below info, the only thing I add as a personal choice is contactless dry with my blower, plus it gets that water out of hard-to-reach areas.

Originally Posted by Pentland

You’re entering a rabbit hole.
There are some useful detailing sites e.g. detailingworld however, as you’ve probably ready found, everyone has their own particular favourite products and methods.

The prices you mention seem a little high when you add the vat. I’d expect to pay under £1k for 2 stage and ceramic. You’re right they won’t be working on your car all day but some products will need curing. That said, I had a stage one correction on my F36 and I know the guy spent 10 hours on it only stopping for a sandwich, then it was ceramic coated.

Clearly you can learn about detailing, diy and get a great deal of satisfaction with the results. Equally, you can easily make matters worse.

Personally, I’d get a pro paint correction and learn how to maintain that and wash a car.
(Note, I’d go for a 3 year ceramic rather than 5 year one as after 3 years you may need to get door dings, or other things fixed as well)

My 2p… (others as I said above will preach their own gospel)

Buy:
a snow foam lance or 2 (one for each foam type)
Two buckets with scratch guards
A sheepskin mitt
Wheel woolies.
Car drying towel.


Consider that each time you touch the car, you damage it. So every time you put a cloth, a hand, polish, any contact on the vehicle there is possibility to add a swirl.
With that in mind this is my wash routine:

Spray mist the car with a garden hose. This ”floats off” of any grit, dust etc
Snow foam with a pre wash foam.
While this is dwelling, I clean the wheels with wheel woolies and a microfibre brush. Do not use a bristled brush.
Rinse again with a low pressure hose.
Snow foam with a shampoo foam.
Wipe off foam with a sheepskin wash mitt one panel at a time.
After each panel, rinse the mitt in a bucket of clean water (bucket should have a scratch guard in it) then rinse the mitt in a second bucket of clean water before starting the next panel.
Rinse the car again with a low pressure hose.
Dry the car with a specialist towel (or 2).

So in the above, I’ve touched the car twice, once to clean it, once to dry it. Both times the surface will be pretty much if not properly clean anyway.

You can then add waxes, sealants etc. but remember, every time you touch the car….

I have a black car so you can imagine it will show every mark if it goes wrong.

Good luck

[SkyJawa]

The only tip I will give in addition - get a resin filter for your hose.

https://vyair.com/product/pressure-v...isation-resin/

You can rinse the car off in full sun, not bother drying, and it will dry with no water spot marks

[Pentland]

Originally Posted by roundy

You can't go wrong with the below info, the only thing I add as a personal choice is contactless dry with my blower, plus it gets that water out of hard-to-reach areas.

I’m undecided about using blowers. I agree in the use statement above and have considered one as you say it removes a contact stage. However, is there the possibility to blow grit across the car or from the ground onto the car?

[Alscoob]

Originally Posted by Pentland

I’m undecided about using blowers. I agree in the use statement above and have considered one as you say it removes a contact stage. However, is there the possibility to blow grit across the car or from the ground onto the car?

Nope not with the right type of blower.

I have one of these... https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/...mini-plus.aspx

never had an issue with grit and it's heated air.

If I chose again I would go for the bigger one with more puff though.

[Alscoob]

Originally Posted by SkyJawa

The only tip I will give in addition - get a resin filter for your hose.

https://vyair.com/product/pressure-v...isation-resin/

You can rinse the car off in full sun, not bother drying, and it will dry with no water spot marks

I also have this, can confirm it works.

[SW6Steve]

Originally Posted by Alscoob

I also have this, can confirm it works.

Been on that site, their information is not very clear.
So which one to buy, where and how does it fit, how long does it last?

Cheers

[SW6Steve]

Originally Posted by ABall

Evening all, so the weather is getting a little better here in the UK and I've been getting some prices for bringing my car back to looking new. It's the first car I've ever owned that I feel the need to polish so at almost 60 I have to admit non of my previous cars have been nice..... so I don't know how to clean and look after this BMW. Watched a few vids and even got a price for a 2 step paint correction with ceramic coat. 4 days at £260 plus vat per day. I guess it sounds ok but are they really going to be on my car for 8 hrs a day? Now all these recommended cleaning products are pulling me all over the place, figure if I knew what I was doing I could buy myself a Milwaukee orbital polisher and do it myself. Ok so could someone please recommend a site or YouTuber who explains things in detail for someone who's never used a bucket to wash a car or polish one? I have an old Karcher pressure washer and it's got a soap bottle attached but I haven't found out how to do a dilution when your diluting it even more by having fresh water run through the solution. Any pointer would be great.
Thanks.

Lots of info here...https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forums/

[Alscoob]

Originally Posted by SW6Steve

Been on that site, their information is not very clear.
So which one to buy, where and how does it fit, how long does it last?

Cheers

I'll have a look at mine tonight and take a pic or two with size & fittings to give you an idea.

How long does it last... well depends on how often you use it but quite a while, will get back with more info.

EDIT..... SW6Steve

So this is my de-ironised container. It has a screw top section so you can empty and change the resin. I connect the hose to the input side and a length of hose to the output with a trigger spray head and when not in use connect the small loop to both as the pic to stop evaporation.
Size is 87 so 8" dia x 17" high, capacity 11 litres



This is the resin I use comes in a 25 litre bag and will easily last me about 18-24 months easily depending on how much I use it. (sometimes in autumn / winter I don't use it as there is plenty of time to use the blower on its own).
I use the MB-151 resin as I'm in a hard water area, you can use the MB-115 resin if you are in a soft water area.

Note the blower really only works at it's best when the car is polished / waxed / or ceramic coated or other methods of forming beading, so it just runs off easily.



You need to buy one of these too, it measures the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water. https://www.waterfilterman.co.uk/wat...705707313.html

Quite interesting when you test the tap water and see how high the reading is, then test your de-ironised water and it reads Zero! So it is a way of monitoring the condition of your rinse water and helps you decide when to change the resin in the container.



Many people sell these vessels but I believe Vyair are the most competitive.

If you decide to get one of these you must only use it as the last rinse to wash the contaminated water off the car. So wash the car as you would e.g. snow foam, rinse, 2 bucket wash method, rinse to remove all suds, any next steps like Samson Hydra https://sansom.co.uk/products/hydra
or other beading aids. Then a final rinse with the de-ironised water and you can then just leave it to dry naturally.

Hope that helps and give some info

[Pentland]

Gotta love this forum. Already recommendations of around £500 of kit and that’s just to dry a car lol

[GOF_430d]

My, by comparison, simple approach to washing cars is to apply alloy wheel cleaner to the wheels, then rinse the car with a pressure washer including the wheels, then snow foam [brings back happy memories of foam party discos from my youth] then wash car using a sponge, separate sponge for the wheels - usually a worn sponge scourer from the kitchen, rinse again with pressure washer, then dry car with shammy leather and finally clean windows with RainX.

Simple!

[ABall]

Originally Posted by SW6Steve

Lots of info here...https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forums/

Joined yesterday thanks, so much to read but ive started buying a couple of things.

[ABall]

Originally Posted by GOF_430d

My, by comparison, simple approach to washing cars is to apply alloy wheel cleaner to the wheels, then rinse the car with a pressure washer including the wheels, then snow foam [brings back happy memories of foam party discos from my youth] then wash car using a sponge, separate sponge for the wheels - usually a worn sponge scourer from the kitchen, rinse again with pressure washer, then dry car with shammy leather and finally clean windows with RainX.

Simple!

OMG dont tell them that on the detailing forum, sponges and shammies are a sin, first thing I read.

[ABall]

Originally Posted by SkyJawa

The only tip I will give in addition - get a resin filter for your hose.

https://vyair.com/product/pressure-v...isation-resin/

You can rinse the car off in full sun, not bother drying, and it will dry with no water spot marks

Do you think we need this if we use a blower to dry it?

[Alscoob]

Originally Posted by ABall

Do you think we need this if we use a blower to dry it?

I think you do as you don't want it to start to dry before you get to that point with the blower.

Actually if you wash the properly then the final rinse is with de-ionised water you can just leave it to dry. So if the budget is tight see how it goes and if you decide on a blower to dry, maybe because you want to polish it and not wait for the drip dry, then try that out later?

[Pentland]

Originally Posted by GOF_430d

My, by comparison, simple approach to washing cars is to apply alloy wheel cleaner to the wheels, then rinse the car with a pressure washer including the wheels, then snow foam [brings back happy memories of foam party discos from my youth] then wash car using a sponge, separate sponge for the wheels - usually a worn sponge scourer from the kitchen, rinse again with pressure washer, then dry car with shammy leather and finally clean windows with RainX.

Simple!

Originally Posted by ABall

OMG dont tell them that on the detailing forum, sponges and shammies are a sin, first thing I read.

I’m taking GOF_430d post as tongue in cheek. Surprised he didn’t suggest using a brillo pad for removing tar or bird poo. (Sponge scourer!).

I’m always amazed at how many people don’t think twice about reaching for alloy wheel cleaner. Don’t care if it’s ph neutral, a rinse and shampoo should be all they need.

[GOF_430d]

Originally Posted by Pentland

I’m taking GOF_430d post as tongue in cheek. Surprised he didn’t suggest using a brillo pad for removing tar or bird poo. (Sponge scourer!).

I’m always amazed at how many people don’t think twice about reaching for alloy wheel cleaner. Don’t care if it’s ph neutral, a rinse and shampoo should be all they need.

Pentland, to be fair the scourer doesn't shift the baked on brake dust [or whatever it is] on my wheels. You'll be relieved to read that I use Autoglym Tar remover and baby wipes / a damp cloth for bird crap removal.

[ABall]

Originally Posted by Alscoob

I think you do as you don't want it to start to dry before you get to that point with the blower.

Actually if you wash the properly then the final rinse is with de-ionised water you can just leave it to dry. So if the budget is tight see how it goes and if you decide on a blower to dry, maybe because you want to polish it and not wait for the drip dry, then try that out later?

I guess what I was saying was, will using a blower before it dries negate the need for treated water because I can get a Milwaukee M18 leaf blower for £114, there's also plenty of stubby noses on ebay for car drying, 3d printed of course but that saves a bunch of cash.

[ABall]

Originally Posted by Alscoob

I'll have a look at mine tonight and take a pic or two with size & fittings to give you an idea.

How long does it last... well depends on how often you use it but quite a while, will get back with more info.

EDIT..... SW6Steve

So this is my de-ironised container. It has a screw top section so you can empty and change the resin. I connect the hose to the input side and a length of hose to the output with a trigger spray head and when not in use connect the small loop to both as the pic to stop evaporation.
Size is 87 so 8" dia x 17" high, capacity 11 litres

Attachment 3415096 Attachment 3415097

This is the resin I use comes in a 25 litre bag and will easily last me about 18-24 months easily depending on how much I use it. (sometimes in autumn / winter I don't use it as there is plenty of time to use the blower on its own).
I use the MB-151 resin as I'm in a hard water area, you can use the MB-115 resin if you are in a soft water area.

Note the blower really only works at it's best when the car is polished / waxed / or ceramic coated or other methods of forming beading, so it just runs off easily.

Attachment 3415098

You need to buy one of these too, it measures the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water. https://www.waterfilterman.co.uk/wat...705707313.html

Quite interesting when you test the tap water and see how high the reading is, then test your de-ironised water and it reads Zero! So it is a way of monitoring the condition of your rinse water and helps you decide when to change the resin in the container.

Attachment 3415099

Many people sell these vessels but I believe Vyair are the most competitive.

If you decide to get one of these you must only use it as the last rinse to wash the contaminated water off the car. So wash the car as you would e.g. snow foam, rinse, 2 bucket wash method, rinse to remove all suds, any next steps like Samson Hydra https://sansom.co.uk/products/hydra
or other beading aids. Then a final rinse with the de-ironised water and you can then just leave it to dry naturally.

Hope that helps and give some info

Thanks for adding all that info, I am very tempted now, think the confusion is that your bottle doesn't look like the one your link sends us too.