[sigterm2.0]

I need a sounding board here... Let me give you a quick background and see if my logic tracks or if I'm way off base...

So, I upgraded my clutch/flywheel to the Clutch Masters FX850 Strapped...

I live in an apartment, so doing my clutch swap in my driveway would be less than ideal for me and my landlord. So, I paid a local shop to do the install. When I got it back, had the typical gear noise from the single mass lightweight flywheel, no problem. Had a bit of chatter getting used to the pedal pressure and bite of the new clutch, also not a problem.

However, 65 miles into the break in, (car had never been revved past 3500, never taken over 50mph, all city driving, never launched) I started having what sounded like gear grinding noises when taking off. Shifting was smooth through all gears; drove fine once I got going. It was just the initial take off that sounded funny and sometimes even grinded enough to try to kill the car.

I stopped driving it and bit the bullet and dropped the trans myself (the guy gave no warranty even on his labor because I bought the clutch and it was a "performance part", we argued back and forth about how I don't care about the warranty on the clutch, I want you to honor your workmanship... I lost).

So I had it up on jack stands got the clutch kit out, nothing looked amiss except my throwout bearing (which was new with the clutch kit) was TRASHED... It was missing the plastic "cushion" that rests on the pressure plate's diaphragm and it wiggled around! It was horrible. I was like "Ah ha! Bad throwout bearing". Pulled the clutch, all looked good. Replaced the throwout bearing, slapped my car back together, couple of stop/starts working great and one block later, same issue.

This morning, I dropped the trans back out, same exact scenario with my throwout bearing, completely trashed. I pulled the clutch, and this time the flywheel, and I noticed something. And here is where I need a logic check...

On the B58 crankshaft where it mates to the flywheel, there is like a plastic spacer that covers the crank and has like a rubber edge that sits on the rear main seal. There is a small alignment pin that sticks through the plastic spacer. I had the question that "does this plastic spacer stay installed with an aftermarket flywheel? I did some depth measurements with my digital caliper and came to the conclusion that the space needs to be there or the alignment pin will be too long to fit into the flywheel. Am I correct in saying that this spacer stays?

The guy who installed the flywheel left the spacer, but I didn't notice this alignment pin until after I had the flywheel removed and started looking things over. Here is what I am thinking, if he had the flywheel misaligned (the pin wasn't in the correct hole on the back of the flywheel) and the flywheel was sitting just a few millimeters crooked, against the crank, that would cause the pressure plate to be crooked at the same angle, and thus when the throwout bearing was pressed against the diaphragm with the ridiculous pedal pressure of this plate, it would put uneven pressure on the throwout bearing causing it start wobbling, and ultimately failing.

...does that sound logical? Are there any other reasons why my throwout bearing continues to fail?

[sigterm2.0]

Wow... No one? Everyone driving autos these days?! 😁😁

[disintegrator66]

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

Wow... No one? Everyone driving autos these days?! ����

kern417 for an assist

[sigterm2.0]

Yeah, I was trying to avoid sending him a PM or anything as he is probably flooded with them... But may just have to.

This problem is throwing me for a loop. There are only a couple of things that influence the throw out bearing...

* The correct installation on the clutch release lever
* The correct alignment and extension of the slave cylinder
* The quality of the bearing itself
* The condition of the pressure plate diaphragm
* The clutch assembly (flywheel and pressure plate) being flush mounted to the crank

...am I missing anything? Please any ideas are fair game. Look at how much play is in this bearing. This has happened to two bearings now.

[disintegrator66]

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

Yeah, I was trying to avoid sending him a PM or anything as he is probably flooded with them... But may just have to.

This problem is throwing me for a loop. There are only a couple of things that influence the throw out bearing...

* The correct installation on the clutch release lever
* The correct alignment and extension of the slave cylinder
* The quality of the bearing itself
* The condition of the pressure plate diaphragm
* The clutch assembly (flywheel and pressure plate) being flush mounted to the crank

...am I missing anything? Please any ideas are fair game. Look at how much play is in this bearing. This has happened to two bearings now.

I am by no means an expert..... but could it be a part compatibility issue? Sounds like the TOB is not fully disengaging? Maybe reinstall the origional dual mass FW with a new 550i clutch... Good luck!!

[sigterm2.0]

Well... This is news to me. Just got off the phone with clutch masters and they saw my video and said that the bearing wobble on that bearing is NORMAL. 😳😳😳

Apparently it's called a self centering throw out bearing and my OEM bearing is not to be used at all because it will not work on the pressure plate because of its size. 🤷🏻

...so, I am banking everything on that alignment pin ha ing not been aligned correctly.

I will try to throw my car back together tonight and see what happens.

[sigterm2.0]

So, threw my car back together last night and went for a drive. It worked fine for about 2 miles and then the noise came back.

I just said f-it and kept driving it. So now I understand it a bit more.

It only happens when I take off from a dead stop while engaging the clutch. If I am rolling even a little bit, it takes off normally. I can ease into taking off and it won't make the noise, but if I take off quickly it makes it. It sounds like when you miss shift and grind a gear, only, I'm already in gear (everything shifts fine with all gears, it only happens when taking off from a stop).

Sigh... Who knows. I'm probably just gonna drive it until something catastrophic breaks. I'm so tired of it. 🤬🤬🤬

[disintegrator66]

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

So, threw my car back together last night and went for a drive. It worked fine for about 2 miles and then the noise came back.

I just said f-it and kept driving it. So now I understand it a bit more.

It only happens when I take off from a dead stop while engaging the clutch. If I am rolling even a little bit, it takes off normally. I can ease into taking off and it won't make the noise, but if I take off quickly it makes it. It sounds like when you miss shift and grind a gear, only, I'm already in gear (everything shifts fine with all gears, it only happens when taking off from a stop).

Sigh... Who knows. I'm probably just gonna drive it until something catastrophic breaks. I'm so tired of it. ������

I understand your frustration, but I don't know if I could live with a "grind a gear" noise every time I took off from a dead stop. Also, waiting for a catastrophic failure would keep me up at night. Obviously something aint right. If it were me, I'd install the DMFW, install a 550i clutch w/stock TOB and call it a day. Just my $.02! Good luck bro!

[sigterm2.0]

The problem is that 550i clutch won't hold my final horsepower goals. This first "stage" of mine is only 650-700 on stock internals, second stage will be 850 with the engine I'm building, with a final goal of 1000+.

I bought this clutch kit because it will hold that power and I can rebuild it without having to replace the entire clutch kit as it starts to wear out.

I really didn't want to buy an interim clutch that I would only be using for a year or so... But I just might have to. This sound is driving me insane! I feel like everyone is looking at me like I don't know how to drive my car! 😭😭😭

I'll look into the 550i kit, if I can score that and the flywheel cheap enough, I might throw it on... I believe that kern417 is running that with his full frame turbo. He should be maxing his stock internals at 650-700whp.

[B58 parts]

I'm not sure about this plastic spacer you're talking about. Are you talking about the magnet wheel or reluctor, the thing that gives the signal to the crank sensor, and without your car will never start? Yes, you need that and all the dowel pins should line up.

Yes everyone is driving autos these days. Sitting in a chair looking at a screen.

Sounds like you figured it out though. I still have the motive stage 2 clutch sitting here, as soon as the main bearings I need come off back order I'll have a review on it. It has its own throwout bearing and looks all right but it is a spec clutch so we'll see.

I put a uuc clutch on my X5 and have a weird squealing noise on startup that is not the accessory belt. It's incredibly touchy. There's a very fine line between chatter and the cooking it noise. And I've smoked it twice in reverse already. I don't know how it's going to hold up in this heavy car. But usually it is nice to drive.

Glad you were able to get it removed and reinstalled though that's no easy task. Myself it was like going four rounds with Mike Tyson but eventually I got it to line up. I couldn't move for a couple days after. And I'm not looking forward to doing it again but likely will.

[disintegrator66]

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

The problem is that 550i clutch won't hold my final horsepower goals. This first "stage" of mine is only 650-700 on stock internals, second stage will be 850 with the engine I'm building, with a final goal of 1000+.

I bought this clutch kit because it will hold that power and I can rebuild it without having to replace the entire clutch kit as it starts to wear out.

I really didn't want to buy an interim clutch that I would only be using for a year or so... But I just might have to. This sound is driving me insane! I feel like everyone is looking at me like I don't know how to drive my car! 😭😭😭

I'll look into the 550i kit, if I can score that and the flywheel cheap enough, I might throw it on... I believe that kern417 is running that with his full frame turbo. He should be maxing his stock internals at 650-700whp.

With those lofty HP goals you're going to need a Tremec T-56 upgrade. My guess it won't take long for you to grenade the stock tranny even with stage 1 power and the slightest abuse (fun).

[sigterm2.0]

Hahaha agreed.

Which is why I'm not really too worried about it. I've gotten better at taking off in such a way that it doesn't even make the sound. Plus, I know the sound isnt my engine, worse case scenario is that it's in the trans, and we'll, ka-boom just means early upgrade. 🤷🏻😁

[sigterm2.0]

Originally Posted by B58 parts

Glad you were able to get it removed and reinstalled though that's no easy task. Myself it was like going four rounds with Mike Tyson but eventually I got it to line up. I couldn't move for a couple days after. And I'm not looking forward to doing it again but likely will.

Forgive me about the magnetic disc. I am new to the BMW platform and didn't know what it was called, or it's function. Still learning the small things. I'm used to crank position sensors being on the crank pulley. I still have a lot to learn about this platform but I'm loving it so far.

And about the install... Right?! the first time I was timid, but now that I've dropped it out twice in a week, I got it down to about 4.5-5 hours start to finish (dropped out and reinstalled). On my car it's not too bad, just remove underbody panels, exhaust, heat shields. Disconnect drive shaft, take off trans attachments, then bell housing bolts. Slides right out. The worst part is the 3 bell housing bolts at the top!!! 🤬🤬🤬

I had to replace one of them... Funny story, went to the dealership to buy the bolts gave him the last 7 of my vin and told him what I wanted. I just wanted to buy "3 transmission bolts". He came out and said $70!!! I lost my crap... I said bro... Seriously I understand BMW is proud of their stuff but you're saying they're almost $25/bolt! C'mon.

He went back in the back again, and I pulled up the part number on RealOEM.com and said this is what I want... He said yeah that's it. I said, man just give me one bolt. He comes back with a bag of 2 bolts for $18. I was like dude?! Were those kit numbers, and it was $70 for all 9 bell housing bolts? He said, oh yeah, that was for all of them, all 3 parts numbers. I was dying laughing. (Still not great pricing, but more in the realm of BMW pricing not Ferrari pricing.)

Also, while he was ringing me up I had to ask him what he drives since the dealership hires nothing but rich-looking, Abercrombie models to work there... He said... A Buick. "I stay in my lane". Priceless. 🤣😂🤣😂🤣

[B58 parts]

Yeah that's the magnet wheel that gives the crank sensor signal. It's on the back behind the flywheel. It's a weird metal with some rubber looking edge and there's holes for the flywheel bolts and the locating dowel. It's on the engine parts diagram. If you delete it I don't think you'll get any ignition or fuel. Unplugging the crank sensor is another way to do the oil prime vs plugs and injectors. Though I don't know why you would on this car it's way under there.

If you have the engine support bar or crane you can hook the lift eyelet on the front of the cylinder head and tip everything back further on the engine mounts, much easier to get the shift linkage and upper bolts.

The nice thing on these cars is the starter is right at the bottom. On the old m5x cars it's up under the intake manifold and is two more bolts way up there, then there's a rusty dowel alignment pin that won't let go. It was just a fight to get everything up and rotated correctly and then get it all to go in, with the starter at the same time. Once I put the lower bolt on just to hold it rotation wise, things were downhill from there. I dread doing it again for sure.

[Master_Igz11]

Just reading about your build, and maybe you can help me out!

Im aiming for about 500-600hp and are wanting to start on a super clean slate: Fresh maintenance on a 100k car!

Ive done all fluids, brakes, sparkplugs, oil filter housing, and tires. My shop said clutch wouldn't be a bad idea considering what i'm going for and where the car is now.

I was going to grab the 550i joint from FCP, but wondering if I need the flywheel too?

Originally Posted by sigterm2.0

The problem is that 550i clutch won't hold my final horsepower goals. This first "stage" of mine is only 650-700 on stock internals, second stage will be 850 with the engine I'm building, with a final goal of 1000+.

I bought this clutch kit because it will hold that power and I can rebuild it without having to replace the entire clutch kit as it starts to wear out.

I really didn't want to buy an interim clutch that I would only be using for a year or so... But I just might have to. This sound is driving me insane! I feel like everyone is looking at me like I don't know how to drive my car! 😭😭😭

I'll look into the 550i kit, if I can score that and the flywheel cheap enough, I might throw it on... I believe that kern417 is running that with his full frame turbo. He should be maxing his stock internals at 650-700whp.