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      08-03-2020, 09:27 PM   #1
sspade
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After a fair amount of effort trying to find a color matched, factory F80 spoiler... I went ahead and bought an off color one for cheap on eBay. Believe it or not, I have a BSM one stuck in transit from Australia due to COVID. Who knows if it ever shows up... also purchased on eBay and in the process of refunding after 100+ days of waiting.

I'm going to attempt to rattle can this thing gloss black. I was hoping to get more insight of actual prep of the existing, already painted spoiler before I make a mess. Any tips are greatly appreciated!

The color of the one I have is Yas Marina Blue in case that matters.



This is what I've got in mind so far:

Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer
Rust-Oleum Gloss Spray Paint, Black
3M VHB 3952 Foam Adhesive Tape


General questions:
1. Any specific paint prep products and techniques that should be done to existing painted spoiler?
2. Should I be adding a Rust-Oleum Clear Coat on top of the above?
3. Should I ditch Rust-Oleum altogether and go a different route?
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      08-04-2020, 12:59 AM   #2
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Clean very very very well with Dish soap and water To help strip waxes and contaminants. Then clean with alcohol to be sure you have no water or oils or soap residue. Forced Air dry If possible, hair dryer on cool if not jsut to blow any air out and leave ready for paint.

Lightly scuff up surface with fine grit paper or scuffing pad.

Use one of those spray can handles, they do actually help you make long even passes.

I’ve never much liked rustoleums nozzles or paint quality, but if it is the best you can find, go with it.
Vht has pretty good nozzles, so I’ve been saving them of the cans on my brake caliper job I’m doing.
Yes you need a clear coat.

Edit. If you want I can Gladly mail you a nozzle in an envelope. Just do a test pattern On cardboard, etc quickly to make sure no color contamination Occurs. Good idea anyway to see how good/ bad the pattern is on your chosen brand o paint.
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Last edited by Onizukachan; 08-04-2020 at 04:31 PM..
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      08-04-2020, 04:39 PM   #3
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Tack coats are important with spray paint, lightly mist one on and let it sit 5 min or so but before it can dry, do your next coat, that way it sticks but also flows out smoothly. I wait about 10-18 minutes between coats. If you wait too little you might get a run, if you wait too long it doesn’t flow out as well. If something happens and you have to stop mid job, when you resume remember to do a tack coat again before laying on.

And don’t get too close. 12+18 inches or so Seems to work well between Maximizing coverage and being to heavy per pass for me.
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15 F31d M-Sport with the usual OEM+ mods:
B Pillar Ambient lighting, LCI AC control & ambient lighted panel + LCI anthracite trim & vent,
F80 paddles + extendable merino armrest + trim cover w/ merino knee bolster, EU headlight switch, 340/330 brake upgrade.
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      08-04-2020, 10:06 PM   #4
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@onizukachan

Thanks for the tips, Im definitely taking notes. Will report back with what I come up with...

In regards to nozzle, Im surprised they make such a difference when talking about spray paint. Woulda thought they were somewhat standardized across the market.

Now you've got me thinking. Where would I get better paint/nozzles? I found the Rust-Oleum at Walmart for pretty cheap.

Haven't bought anything yet except the 3M VHB tape and spoiler itself.

Updated buy list:

1. Scuffing pad
2. Self Etching Primer
4. Gloss black paint
5. Clear coat
6. Spray can handle
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      08-04-2020, 10:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
@onizukachan

Thanks for the tips, Im definitely taking notes. Will report back with what I come up with...

In regards to nozzle, Im surprised they make such a difference when talking about spray paint. Woulda thought they were somewhat standardized across the market.

Now you've got me thinking. Where would I get better paint/nozzles? I found the Rust-Oleum at Walmart for pretty cheap.

Haven't bought anything yet except the 3M VHB tape and spoiler itself.

Updated buy list:

1. Scuffing pad
2. Self Etching Primer
4. Gloss black paint
5. Clear coat
6. Spray can handle
I know Cali's been pretty hot so i'd paint in the evening to get a better spray in. Where are you buying your 3m VHB tape from? I can only find relabeled VHB tape.
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      08-05-2020, 07:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
@onizukachan

Thanks for the tips, Im definitely taking notes. Will report back with what I come up with...

In regards to nozzle, Im surprised they make such a difference when talking about spray paint. Woulda thought they were somewhat standardized across the market.

Now you've got me thinking. Where would I get better paint/nozzles? I found the Rust-Oleum at Walmart for pretty cheap.

Haven't bought anything yet except the 3M VHB tape and spoiler itself.

Updated buy list:

1. Scuffing pad
2. Self Etching Primer
4. Gloss black paint
5. Clear coat
6. Spray can handle
I know Cali's been pretty hot so i'd paint in the evening to get a better spray in. Where are you buying your 3m VHB tape from? I can only find relabeled VHB tape.
Good call, for sure.

I got my tape off eBay. Cheap and showed up really quick. Haven't used it yet but seems legit upon visual inspection.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/282415402175
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      08-05-2020, 01:13 PM   #7
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I rattle can'd some M Sport side skirts on my non M Sport 328 just this past weekend. To echo what others have stated, prep is key. I just used a scuff pad as opposed to sandpaper to rough them up, rinsed with water and cleaned with an APC. I can recommend https://www.automotivetouchup.com for a good paint mix, if you dont mind spending the money for the proper color match. Their paint matched pretty darn good (Glacier Silver Metallic). The most difficult part for me, was getting a good high gloss finish. The skirts came out looking a bit matte in comparison to the rest of the car. I think the key to higher gloss finish is more light coats versus fewer medium coats.
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      08-05-2020, 02:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Good call, for sure.

I got my tape off eBay. Cheap and showed up really quick. Haven't used it yet but seems legit upon visual inspection.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/282415402175
Interesting, definitely a good deal. It appears they do the same thing where they rewind it up. If possible, let me know how sticky it ends up being, thanks
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      08-05-2020, 11:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cray101 View Post
I rattle can'd some M Sport side skirts on my non M Sport 328 just this past weekend. To echo what others have stated, prep is key. I just used a scuff pad as opposed to sandpaper to rough them up, rinsed with water and cleaned with an APC. I can recommend https://www.automotivetouchup.com for a good paint mix, if you dont mind spending the money for the proper color match. Their paint matched pretty darn good (Glacier Silver Metallic). The most difficult part for me, was getting a good high gloss finish. The skirts came out looking a bit matte in comparison to the rest of the car. I think the key to higher gloss finish is more light coats versus fewer medium coats.

yeah you are exactly right....this is why i've told myself not to "rattle can" anything again...i got some on that site as well and the project ended up being about what it'd cost to have a local shop do the job (considering you need paint/primer/clear + a few other tools/materials)

and like you said, you can never achieve the same glossy finish with that type of clear coat
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      08-06-2020, 09:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyf36 View Post
yeah you are exactly right....this is why i've told myself not to "rattle can" anything again...i got some on that site as well and the project ended up being about what it'd cost to have a local shop do the job (considering you need paint/primer/clear + a few other tools/materials)

and like you said, you can never achieve the same glossy finish with that type of clear coat
For things like side skirts or a spoiler like OP's, I dont really see an issue with rattle cans. I would certainly not ever do a bumper or anything larger. The paint ran about $100 for 3 cans of base and 2 cans of their clear. Picked up adhesion promoter primer, scuff pads and tack cloths from local autozone. The paint shop I called wanted 500 to prep and paint the side skirts
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      08-18-2020, 08:47 AM   #11
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Figured I might as well update with my results.

Although not perfect... Im very happy with how it turned out.

All of the products mentioned, including tape worked out perfectly.

Appreciate all the responses and tips
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