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      06-19-2020, 04:56 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
I thought about that, but at $1000 their labor must be $500+




Update: dealer agreed to cover it!
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
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      06-19-2020, 05:17 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
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      06-19-2020, 08:15 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
Glad to hear they did the right thing in the end. Persistence is important in these situations. Often times the first guy who takes the call has no idea what you're talking about, so it helps if you can get part numbers and official oe part names. The charge pipe is called charge air duct in the repair manuals, for example. Somebody heard the word pipe and probably thought you had an exhaust leak and that was all they needed to hear to turn you down.
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      06-19-2020, 08:44 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by bobiam View Post
I'm adding a BMS stage 1 to my F30 N55. Really don't think I'll do anything more than that for power. From what I've seen here, most guys want a chargepipe upgrade before going to a Stage 2 or more serious upgrade. But how necessary is a chargepipe upgrade for my Stage 1 mod???

Also, how does a chargepipe fail, and what happens when it fails?? Can the car run at all with a busted chargepipe or is it time to call Uber. I'd like to save a few hundred bucks but don't want to be stranded either.
Very necessary, it should be REQUIRED.
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      06-20-2020, 07:39 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
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      06-20-2020, 07:47 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
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      06-20-2020, 08:00 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
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      06-20-2020, 08:08 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replaced for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is stronger and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic the OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic piece, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
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      06-20-2020, 08:32 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replace it for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is strong and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic pipe, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
To clarify, I'm not riding his ass. Re-read the specific post I was responding to and my subsequent response. I was merely trying to understand his thought process while conveying my confusion.

I don't know the specific thermal properties of an aluminum chargepipe vs. stock plastic, but metal has higher thermal conductivity and lower specific heat capacity than plastic, which is why heat sinks are usually (though not always) metal. That said, theoretically, a plastic pipe will RETAIN heat more than a metal one whereas the metal one will transfer heat better. I'm not an engineer or a physicist though, so how that might affect IATs at the throttle body is beyond me. My guess is that it's so marginal that it's basically a moot point.
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      06-20-2020, 08:45 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replace it for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is strong and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic pipe, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
To clarify, I'm not riding his ass. Re-read the specific post I was responding to and my subsequent response. I was merely trying to understand his thought process while conveying my confusion.

I don't know the specific thermal properties of an aluminum chargepipe vs. stock plastic, but metal has higher thermal conductivity and lower specific heat capacity than plastic, which is why heat sinks are usually (though not always) metal. That said, theoretically, a plastic pipe will RETAIN heat more than a metal one whereas the metal one will transfer heat better. I'm not an engineer or a physicist though, so how that might affect IATs at the throttle body is beyond me. My guess is that it's so marginal that it's basically a moot point.

We're never going to see eye to eye on this; you believe those like me, who stick with the stock pipe are idiots because we're risking potential failure.

And I believe those that install an aluminum, unless they're already pushing heavy boost pressure, are wasting power potential by the heat-soak.

The medium is we respect each other's decision to go either way, as long as they know what they risking and most do.

I have five different ways of summoning different roadside assistances; I can have all of them show up at once, if my charge pipe pops and we can all have a party, before they tow my car to the dealer and have them replace it for free. So it's an understatement to say it doesn't really worry me that much and others that might be resourceful, in the event of failure.
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      06-20-2020, 09:04 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replace it for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is strong and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic pipe, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
To clarify, I'm not riding his ass. Re-read the specific post I was responding to and my subsequent response. I was merely trying to understand his thought process while conveying my confusion.

I don't know the specific thermal properties of an aluminum chargepipe vs. stock plastic, but metal has higher thermal conductivity and lower specific heat capacity than plastic, which is why heat sinks are usually (though not always) metal. That said, theoretically, a plastic pipe will RETAIN heat more than a metal one whereas the metal one will transfer heat better. I'm not an engineer or a physicist though, so how that might affect IATs at the throttle body is beyond me. My guess is that it's so marginal that it's basically a moot point.

We're never going to see eye to eye on this; you believe those like me, who stick with the stock pipe are idiots because we're risking potential failure.

And I believe those that install an aluminum, unless they're already pushing heavy boost pressure, are wasting power potential by the heat-soak.

The medium is we respect each other's decision to go either way, as long as they know what they risking and most do.

I have five different ways of summoning different roadside assistances; I can have all of them show up at once, if my charge pipe pops and we can all have a party, before they tow my car to the dealer and have them replace it for free. So it's an understatement to say it doesn't really worry me that much and others that might be resourceful, in the event of failure.
I agree.

Btw, I don't think you're an idiot, FWIW. Like you said, differences of opinion. I appreciate the discourse.
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      06-20-2020, 09:36 AM   #100
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Buy an aftermarket CP and get your dealer to potentially install it for you since they'd need to replace the POS plastic one anywho.
I thought about that, but at $1000 their labor must be $500+




Update: dealer agreed to cover it!
I think he meant if they are replacing it under warranty then maybe they can install the aftermarket CP supplied by you for no cost. Another member had it done while he got the engine replaced under warranty.
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      06-20-2020, 10:48 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
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Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
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Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replace it for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is strong and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic pipe, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
To clarify, I'm not riding his ass. Re-read the specific post I was responding to and my subsequent response. I was merely trying to understand his thought process while conveying my confusion.

I don't know the specific thermal properties of an aluminum chargepipe vs. stock plastic, but metal has higher thermal conductivity and lower specific heat capacity than plastic, which is why heat sinks are usually (though not always) metal. That said, theoretically, a plastic pipe will RETAIN heat more than a metal one whereas the metal one will transfer heat better. I'm not an engineer or a physicist though, so how that might affect IATs at the throttle body is beyond me. My guess is that it's so marginal that it's basically a moot point.

We're never going to see eye to eye on this; you believe those like me, who stick with the stock pipe are idiots because we're risking potential failure.

And I believe those that install an aluminum, unless they're already pushing heavy boost pressure, are wasting power potential by the heat-soak.

The medium is we respect each other's decision to go either way, as long as they know what they risking and most do.

I have five different ways of summoning different roadside assistances; I can have all of them show up at once, if my charge pipe pops and we can all have a party, before they tow my car to the dealer and have them replace it for free. So it's an understatement to say it doesn't really worry me that much and others that might be resourceful, in the event of failure.
i just got a FLIR camera, i still have my OEM CP on, buy my an ER one and lets do science!
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      06-20-2020, 11:31 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
No, I know a few buddies who had their original CP break and the dealer advised them to go aftermarket and would even install it for them for free. Saves the dealer money since all they cover is labor as opposed to the part + labor.

An aftermarket CP is 200$, that should be all your out of pocket costs but if you feel safer with OEM + don't feel like spending cash then keep the OEM one.

Glad they covered it.
I intend to replace it with aftermarket eventually but with how sketchy they were, I don't want to push my luck with going aftermarket.

Didn't want to drive 30 mins to the local euro shop with the pipe broke, either.
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
It was pretty simple to me; free OEM piece, installed for free, over some aftermarket, heak-soaked, "knock-off" of the original.. :
I was responding to what he posted. What are you responding to, exactly? Who said anything about cost?
If you go back to his earlier threads, he claim the dealer was charging him $1,000 to have it replaced, even though he still had an active CPO warranty.

Aftermarket would of cost $500, give or take.

If he gets it replace it for free now, why ride his ass about him instead paying and "upgrading."

Some people don't care for an aluminum pipe, I, for one, have my reasons because of simple logic; aluminum retains heats more than plastic. It's not lost on me that aluminum is strong and would never break but I rather the compromise of the plastic OEM piece.

My OEM pipe could pop 10 times over and I will still keep the plastic pipe, he has his reasons that he was vague about but why the sermon of going aftermarket?
To clarify, I'm not riding his ass. Re-read the specific post I was responding to and my subsequent response. I was merely trying to understand his thought process while conveying my confusion.

I don't know the specific thermal properties of an aluminum chargepipe vs. stock plastic, but metal has higher thermal conductivity and lower specific heat capacity than plastic, which is why heat sinks are usually (though not always) metal. That said, theoretically, a plastic pipe will RETAIN heat more than a metal one whereas the metal one will transfer heat better. I'm not an engineer or a physicist though, so how that might affect IATs at the throttle body is beyond me. My guess is that it's so marginal that it's basically a moot point.

We're never going to see eye to eye on this; you believe those like me, who stick with the stock pipe are idiots because we're risking potential failure.

And I believe those that install an aluminum, unless they're already pushing heavy boost pressure, are wasting power potential by the heat-soak.

The medium is we respect each other's decision to go either way, as long as they know what they risking and most do.

I have five different ways of summoning different roadside assistances; I can have all of them show up at once, if my charge pipe pops and we can all have a party, before they tow my car to the dealer and have them replace it for free. So it's an understatement to say it doesn't really worry me that much and others that might be resourceful, in the event of failure.
i just got a FLIR camera, i still have my OEM CP on, buy my an ER one and lets do science!
No thanks, I much rather go watch paint dry
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      06-20-2020, 12:27 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
I do intend to go aftermarket, just not with this dealer.

I was concerned about driving to the independent shop for an aftermarket pipe because I didn't want the engine to ingest any plastic bits on the way there. Now I have a working pipe and can go aftermarket when I feel like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke View Post
I think he meant if they are replacing it under warranty then maybe they can install the aftermarket CP supplied by you for no cost. Another member had it done while he got the engine replaced under warranty.
Yep I understand. They were just not that friendly and I highly doubt they will OK that. I may ask on Monday.
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      06-20-2020, 12:30 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
I don't quite understand your thought process here. Your stock one blew, and we've established it's a known weak point. Aftermarket aluminum charge pipes solve the problem, yet you don't want to go aftermarket despite having just blown a stock plastic one?

Maybe you're mistaking the term "aftermarket" here. We're not talking about a knock-off part that replicates the genuine OEM part. An aftermarket chargepipe is an UPGRADE to the stock pipe in strength, durability, and airflow.

I just don't get how going with an aftermarket CP would be "pushing your luck".
I do intend to go aftermarket, just not with this dealer.

I was concerned about driving to the independent shop for an aftermarket pipe because I didn't want the engine to ingest any plastic bits on the way there. Now I have a working pipe and can go aftermarket when I feel like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke View Post
I think he meant if they are replacing it under warranty then maybe they can install the aftermarket CP supplied by you for no cost. Another member had it done while he got the engine replaced under warranty.
Yep I understand. They were just not that friendly and I highly doubt they will OK that. I may ask on Monday.
Gotcha. Glad you got it sorted.
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      06-20-2020, 02:00 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
I do intend to go aftermarket, just not with this dealer.

I was concerned about driving to the independent shop for an aftermarket pipe because I didn't want the engine to ingest any plastic bits on the way there. Now I have a working pipe and can go aftermarket when I feel like it.



Yep I understand. They were just not that friendly and I highly doubt they will OK that. I may ask on Monday.
You should ask, believe it or not before my CP even broke my dealer advised me to go aftermarket and my dealer is by no means a "chill" dealer about mods. I know if I did anything else that's the end of my warranty. But they told me for peace of mind they'll support anyone going aftermarket on the CP, they know it's a very common breaking point and see it all the time. The good thing is, you'll have your car back in working order soon and hopefully it did not ingest plastic. (another good reason to go aftermarket)

P.S to the argument above, heat soaking would be extremely minimal and is not even an argument factor, if you feel like OEM suits you, go oem. If you like aftermarket go aftermarket. Everyone has their own preferences and their own cars. This will always be a debate and I think we can put out hundreds of pages of opinions lol.
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      06-20-2020, 05:50 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tardboi View Post
I do intend to go aftermarket, just not with this dealer.

I was concerned about driving to the independent shop for an aftermarket pipe because I didn't want the engine to ingest any plastic bits on the way there. Now I have a working pipe and can go aftermarket when I feel like it.



Yep I understand. They were just not that friendly and I highly doubt they will OK that. I may ask on Monday.
You should ask, believe it or not before my CP even broke my dealer advised me to go aftermarket and my dealer is by no means a "chill" dealer about mods.
Most, if not every single one of them, would not be cool with installing aftermarket parts, unless it's sanctioned by BMW, even if such part is subjectively better. If you can find one, that's a unicorn..

OEM is what they know and most importantly, that's the terms of them getting reimbursed from BMW AG.
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      07-02-2020, 12:19 PM   #107
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OP just installed the FTP charge pipe, but.......

OK. Using my buddy's lift we installed the FTP charge pipe a few days ago. It fits well but what a PITA getting the old out and the new in! The OEM pipe had no damage.

But BAD news... a mile up the road the The malfunction screen turns on and performance dips. Restarting the car cleared it, but when the car is accelerated moderately it returns. What to do? What to do?

I checked over everything that can be seen from above and all looks great.

Advice???
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      07-02-2020, 08:37 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobiam View Post
OK. Using my buddy's lift we installed the FTP charge pipe a few days ago. It fits well but what a PITA getting the old out and the new in! The OEM pipe had no damage.

But BAD news... a mile up the road the The malfunction screen turns on and performance dips. Restarting the car cleared it, but when the car is accelerated moderately it returns. What to do? What to do?

I checked over everything that can be seen from above and all looks great.

Advice???
Do you have the ability to pull codes?
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      07-02-2020, 09:06 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobiam View Post
OK. Using my buddy's lift we installed the FTP charge pipe a few days ago. It fits well but what a PITA getting the old out and the new in! The OEM pipe had no damage.

But BAD news... a mile up the road the The malfunction screen turns on and performance dips. Restarting the car cleared it, but when the car is accelerated moderately it returns. What to do? What to do?

I checked over everything that can be seen from above and all looks great.

Advice???
+1 on pulling codes, any obvious sounds of loud air hissing when under throttle?

Did you tighten clamps? Place an O- Ring on each side?

Any play in the CP?
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      07-02-2020, 09:08 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidr3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobiam View Post
OK. Using my buddy's lift we installed the FTP charge pipe a few days ago. It fits well but what a PITA getting the old out and the new in! The OEM pipe had no damage.

But BAD news... a mile up the road the The malfunction screen turns on and performance dips. Restarting the car cleared it, but when the car is accelerated moderately it returns. What to do? What to do?

I checked over everything that can be seen from above and all looks great.

Advice???
+1 on pulling codes, any obvious sounds of loud air hissing when under throttle?

Did you tighten clamps? Place an O- Ring on each side?

Any play in the CP?
Also, sensor was plugged back in properly?
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