[rinzlerx]

Hello all!! Bought my first BMW back in March. Just a summer car as I have a '17 Tiguan as a daily. 2015 335XI South African build, 87k, 3 owners for $13,995. Valve cover/gasket was replaced before purchase from small dealership. Noticed oil pan gasket leak which then of course sent me down the rod bearing rabbit hole.
Did my first oil change at 90,300 miles. Tore my filter down and saw some metal flake. I have owned Audis since I could drive (15 years) and have never torn down a filter so I can't say how normal it is to have ANY flake in the filter. I then sent out my oil to Black Stone to see where I stand. The report says I am pretty good and within normal specs. I originally got a quote from the shop for bearings. After the report we went back to just the oil pan gasket. They then mentioned the below and I want to see how everybody feels about this.

"I also have to let you know that we do not warranty any engine failures on the N55 motor when we make a valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, or engine oil pan gasket replacement because of the high chance that these engines already have damage in them that we cannot see. If you Google that motor, you will find MANY issues with blown motors after these types of repairs. We do EVERYTHING in our power to prevent that from happening, but we have to let the customer know in advance."

I have attached the information.
Is this something normal I can expect to hear or should I look elsewhere?
The shop is VERY well known, works on Ferraris, Lambos, and all high end exotic, luxury vehicles and has been around for 40ish years.

[E36M3]

There should be zero metal anything in the filter. Any amount is bad news and requires you to find the source before you spin a bearing. Oil analysis only detects small metal particles, not the type you can see. If they are that big where you can see metal flake then it’s time to open up the bottom end. You must prime the system after the bearing replacement.

[rinzlerx]

Why couldn't the same metal in the filter be detected in the oil when the metal would have been in the oil to get to the filter? I was under the impression the bearing material is copper thus increased copper amounts would indicate unusual wear of the bearings. Almost every page I've found says some metal is common in the filter. I guess ill just fork over the $4700 and do the bearings and make sure the system is primed.

[rlesko]

It is odd to me that they won’t warranty their work. The only time people speak of rod bearing issues are from tracking the car, or not priming the oil circuit properly after a repair. I’ve never heard of someone damaging the engine after proper procedure, which is what you’re supposed to get from a shop.

As far as the quote goes, 2.4k for parts and labor on an xDrive vehicle is within the expected range.

The flakes are a bit alarming to me, i hope you haven’t purchased a lemon.

[F32Driver]

First post here, I also am in need of an oil pan gasket, and have sent a sample out to Blackstone. Still waiting on the results. Thanks for sharing the cost breakdown you received. I'm considering doing the job myself.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by F32Driver

First post here, I also am in need of an oil pan gasket, and have sent a sample out to Blackstone. Still waiting on the results. Thanks for sharing the cost breakdown you received. I'm considering doing the job myself.

It’s definitely DIY-able, but I wouldn’t attempt it unless you’re very experienced working on your vehicle. Access to a car lift also helps significantly; some brave souls have done it on jack stands.

If you’re going to drop the subframe you could search around the forums and consider other maintenance items / upgrades such as engine mounts, sway bars, etc.

[scotthilly]

My oil pan gasket has a slight leak and I’m about to have it, and the rod bearings, both replaced. Bearings repair cost is just the like two hours of labor and $100 of parts. I’d do both to be safe.

PS that shop is ripping you off. I’m in Chicago and the shop I’m going to (very reputable, does bearings for S engines all the time) quoted me $2,100 for both bearings and OPG.

[scotthilly]

I should add I did a blackstone report attached here. Nothing overly concerning but would rather just have it done.

[F32Driver]

Originally Posted by rlesko

It’s definitely DIY-able, but I wouldn’t attempt it unless you’re very experienced working on your vehicle. Access to a car lift also helps significantly; some brave souls have done it on jack stands.

If you’re going to drop the subframe you could search around the forums and consider other maintenance items / upgrades such as engine mounts, sway bars, etc.

I've been working on cars for years, most recently my 7th Gen GTI, which I built up to a Hybrid Turbo w/e85, fueling and all the bolt-ons, doing all the labor myself. Recently, I completed a B17 head gasket and timing job and currently rebuilding the transmission for my son's Civic. Most of these projects were done with jack stands, but I'm planning to invest in a QuickJack setup for convenience and safety. I'll be replacing the mounts, as they're near EOL.
I haven't decided whether to tackle the FSB/RSB yet, though I installed a H&R RSB on my GTI and enjoyed the added oversteer in the FWD platform. Is it recommended on the F Chassis?

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by F32Driver

I've been working on cars for years, most recently my 7th Gen GTI, which I built up to a Hybrid Turbo w/e85, fueling and all the bolt-ons, doing all the labor myself. Recently, I completed a B17 head gasket and timing job and currently rebuilding the transmission for my son's Civic. Most of these projects were done with jack stands, but I'm planning to invest in a QuickJack setup for convenience and safety. I'll be replacing the mounts, as they're near EOL.
I haven't decided whether to tackle the FSB/RSB yet, though I installed a H&R RSB on my GTI and enjoyed the added oversteer in the FWD platform. Is it recommended on the F Chassis?

The stock sway bar is very undersized on the F30. I’d definitely recommend a larger bar. There is a lot of information on the suspension subsection of the forums.

[yupetc]

Oil pan is a pain in the butt for these N55's. The motor needs separation from the motor mount and suspend higher up in order to be able to get the pan clear off the car. When someone comes to me with their N55 needing a rear main seal or oil pan gasket job, I get it done quicker by detaching the motor from transmission and drop the motor along with the subframe and do the job when the motor is clear out of the car. On same job, I'd usually go after other stuff such as front main seal, OFHG, turbo plumbing, etc. because once the motor is back in, I loven't to visit those again.

But if it's just an oil pan job, don't worry about heeding their warnings, oil pan gasket only leaks your oil out, unless you're starving for oil, that job alone will not cause other parts to fail. Now, if the oil pan is coming down, and you have doubts about the metal shavings, then it wouldn't hurt to go for rod bearing replacement. This is the type of rod bearings I've come to use nowadays: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225884495752

The iRox coatings are the same OEM coating they put on the B48 and B58 motors, much better bearings for debris tolerance and temperature resistance. And maybe ARP rod bolts while you're at it? These are just optional since you have doubts. If you don't do these, you'll be perfectly fine with just the oil pan job; if you seal the pan up and prevent oil leaks, you shouldn't have oil starvation issues, that leads to good bearing life inherently. It's really up to how much you can spend.