[shubhammakharia]

Members,

Firstly, , appreciation for an ongoing strong community.

Concerns:
2015 Alpine White F30 328i

1) Car is up for about 65k-70k mile marker, and tires are pending change.
2) Tire: I want to keep stock 17" size for overall efficiency performance (MPG>slight visual enhancements), and avoid immediate rim upgrade costs.
Current Plans: I am looking for advice on the tire size for stock 17" rims. I currently have stock, and until now was planning to go with non-RFT Continental DWS06; but though it will be worthwhile to chime in with the community.
Wants: It's mostly a daily driver(more love by the days), but I plan to start basic/enthusiast track usage by end of the year with CPO running out and bolt-ons coming in. So my reqs are optimum tire size without taking much hit on performance/MPG while able to stance all the possible bolt-on and Bootmod3.
3) Service: I am planning to perform (DIY)

• Transmission oil and pan

• Engine Oil

• Rotors and brake pads

• Brake Fluid

• Coolant

• Spark Plugs

• Engine Air Filter

• Maybe F80 Control Arms, Should I? Would it void related CPO warranty? Dependent upon the success of my new job hunt.

Planning to get all of above from FCP-Euro, as I plan to keep this car for a long period.

4) Should I perform all of the above services in any specific order? (Tires, others)

5) Edit: I need pointers on the following issue I have been observing over the past month. Possible tire issue vs bearing problem.

Noise: Bearing, bad tires?
Symptoms: Humming noise like a lighter sounding version of the spin cycle of the washing machine, vibrating steering wheel. Steering wheel vibrates very subtly (minute left-right vibration) on even surface. I tried to record on video, but not distinguishable enough.
Observations: Seems to be easily noticeable in lower temperatures. Does persist on most road terrain except very few when the sound just becomes almost un-noticeable. I have changed tire pressure from 35-36 to 32-34, and not much has changed.

I feel it's a bad bearing, and suspicion grew stronger with vibrating steering but want to sure to avoid any stealership diagnosis fee.

[Billfitz]

Ask here:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=423

[upsidedownfunnel]

Performance and fuel economy are usually not compatible. A summer tire works by having high levels of grip. Low rolling resistance tires work by having low levels of grip. That said, there really isn't THAT much of a difference between summer and low rolling resistance tires. If you're doing it just to save money, you'll save maybe $50/year. Just get summer tires or performance all-seasons. Michelin Pilot Super Sport, 4S, or AS3 tires are my top suggestions.

IMO, 18" is probably the best performing option providing a lower profile for performance without being too heavy like a 19" wheel would which would slow you down. 17" wheels should be fine though and I doubt there's any real difference in real world performance, it's mostly just an aesthetic thing as long as you don't plan on upgrading your brakes any time soon.

Have you ever worked on cars before? If not, take things slow otherwise you might get discouraged. Take time to do research and get a Bentley service manual used on eBay or something.

Order of work by difficulty and the order you should do the work:
1) Engine air filter
2) Engine oil/filter
3) Spark Plugs
4) Brake Fluid
5) Brake Job (rotors and pads)
6) Coolant
7) Transmission fluid change

Progress up on each job. Don't try doing it all in one weekend or anything. You can do 1,2 together. 3 is quick, but I'd save it for a separate day. Then do 4 & 5 on a separate day as well. Do 6 & 7 separately (on different days). Nothing on this list is too hard for a DIY mechanic except maybe the transmission fluid change. Only because it's kind of annoying doing it on your back and you have to have the car level and you have to measure the transmission oil temperature and fill it at a specific temp. Still doable and as long as you feel comfortable doing 1-6, you should be fine doing it. I would also recommend doing your diff fluid before doing the transmission. For engine oil, use any LL-01 rated oil, use a Mahle or Mann oil filter. For brakes use Zimmerman rotors if you want to save money (OEM if you don't) but use OEM pads. For spark plugs, use Bosch OEM equivalent spark plugs. For brake fluid and coolant, use BMW fluid, it's too cheap to not to. For tracking your car, you'll want a different brake fluid. Use ZF Lifeguard 8 for your transmission with the OEM pan/filter (or use OEM BMW transmission fluid).

I wouldn't do the control arms until you get a good feel for how your car handles. After you do your brake job, you'll probably be ready to do the control arms, though. They are fairly easy.

Vibrating could be a few things. Tires, wheel bearings, brakes (if it happens while braking), suspension. It's impossible to say without having someone take a look. Since you're still under warranty, you'll be alright.

[shubhammakharia]

Thank you for just detailed and kindly explained answer, that's very helpful!

As you recommended, I was deciding between AS3+ and DSW06 and decided on DSW06 because of all rounder all-season tire repo. I was looking for tipping point towards AS3 but said to ok/bad in snow, and learned that there is certainly not much difference in overall performance much(driving corners, etc). I like winters and snow, so my holidays definitely have a snow destination.
Sticking with 17" for now, because I am doing all these preventive maintenances, need a little time to save, research and upgrade wheels and tires. I am thinking to then do wheels, and suspension/Coilover upgrade (+/- control arms). I feel that's going to be 1 year down the lane. (bolt on's first)

I have worked on cars with basic servicing, oils change, filter, steering, brakes. I got price estimates for trans and differential, quoted for 350 and 70 labor only. I have thoroughly watched youtube DIY and am confident I can do all this maintainece, save money, learn and love the car more. I did realize I may be underestimating the effort required, so I am compiling an entire list of service I am doing, with DIY videos, and compiled list of parts and tools required. I am just stuck at two things: figuring out bolt type on transmission;

I got BMW Differential Fluid 75W-90/Castrol SAF-XO(07512293972), all of the very forums I found, talked most about this oil. FCP Euro tech recommended BMW 70W-80(83222413512). Any advice?

Tire/Road Noise, It's mostly when driving/accelerating/maintaining speed, not during braking. It's definitely something else, maybe bearing, wheels or axle/similar(unlikely). I now feel it's rear passenger tire since it's not holding air anymore after 2 months of this light kind-of-humming noise. I have noticed light feathering on all tires. Since I am going to be putting my car on jack stands and taking off all wheels for a brake job, any tricks to test a bad wheel bearing?

Lastly, If I change my tires to non-RFT and brakes to zimmerman+aukebono setup, do I void a likely my chance of warranty claim/repair for bad bearing. Bottom line: Should I confirm if I have a bad bearing first?

I speak a lot, very descriptive and detailed . Thank you a lot.

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

Performance and fuel economy are usually not compatible. A summer tire works by having high levels of grip. Low rolling resistance tires work by having low levels of grip. That said, there really isn't THAT much of a difference between summer and low rolling resistance tires. If you're doing it just to save money, you'll save maybe $50/year. Just get summer tires or performance all-seasons. Michelin Pilot Super Sport, 4S, or AS3 tires are my top suggestions.

IMO, 18" is probably the best performing option providing a lower profile for performance without being too heavy like a 19" wheel would which would slow you down. 17" wheels should be fine though and I doubt there's any real difference in real world performance, it's mostly just an aesthetic thing as long as you don't plan on upgrading your brakes any time soon.

Have you ever worked on cars before? If not, take things slow otherwise you might get discouraged. Take time to do research and get a Bentley service manual used on eBay or something.

Order of work by difficulty and the order you should do the work:
1) Engine air filter
2) Engine oil/filter
3) Spark Plugs
4) Brake Fluid
5) Brake Job (rotors and pads)
6) Coolant
7) Transmission fluid change

Progress up on each job. Don't try doing it all in one weekend or anything. You can do 1,2 together. 3 is quick, but I'd save it for a separate day. Then do 4 & 5 on a separate day as well. Do 6 & 7 separately (on different days). Nothing on this list is too hard for a DIY mechanic except maybe the transmission fluid change. Only because it's kind of annoying doing it on your back and you have to have the car level and you have to measure the transmission oil temperature and fill it at a specific temp. Still doable and as long as you feel comfortable doing 1-6, you should be fine doing it. I would also recommend doing your diff fluid before doing the transmission. For engine oil, use any LL-01 rated oil, use a Mahle or Mann oil filter. For brakes use Zimmerman rotors if you want to save money (OEM if you don't) but use OEM pads. For spark plugs, use Bosch OEM equivalent spark plugs. For brake fluid and coolant, use BMW fluid, it's too cheap to not to. For tracking your car, you'll want a different brake fluid. Use ZF Lifeguard 8 for your transmission with the OEM pan/filter (or use OEM BMW transmission fluid).

I wouldn't do the control arms until you get a good feel for how your car handles. After you do your brake job, you'll probably be ready to do the control arms, though. They are fairly easy.

Vibrating could be a few things. Tires, wheel bearings, brakes (if it happens while braking), suspension. It's impossible to say without having someone take a look. Since you're still under warranty, you'll be alright.