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      04-15-2020, 12:38 AM   #1
straightdraw84
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Compounding/Waxing tips?

Hey guys/gals

I'm doing to wax the car tomorrow, I wanted to know what's been your experiences? I'm going to wash and clay bar beforehand of course:

I have the following products:

https://www.amazon.ca/Meguiars-G1722...6928200&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.ca/Meguiars-G1821...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Now I also have a polish:

https://www.amazon.ca/Meguiars-G1921...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

But I think it's kinda useless because I'll be compounding it anyway.
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      04-15-2020, 08:13 AM   #2
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Depending on how much correction you need the usual steps are to use a heavy cut compound with rotary buffer, a medium cut compound with rotary, a polish applied with a dual action buffer, then a final sealer applied with a dual action buffer. If you don't need much correction you can skip the heavy cut compound. I haven't used wax in ten years. I use Jescar Power Lock. The wax you linked says it's polymer base, so it may be similar.
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      04-15-2020, 12:01 PM   #3
straightdraw84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
Depending on how much correction you need the usual steps are to use a heavy cut compound with rotary buffer, a medium cut compound with rotary, a polish applied with a dual action buffer, then a final sealer applied with a dual action buffer. If you don't need much correction you can skip the heavy cut compound. I haven't used wax in ten years. I use Jescar Power Lock. The wax you linked says it's polymer base, so it may be similar.
just fixed rock chipping on my hood, so I'm going hard core, plus waxing is never a bad idea for protection
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      04-15-2020, 02:02 PM   #4
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True, so long as it isn't actual wax. Modern polymer sealers work much better.
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      04-15-2020, 04:49 PM   #5
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Are you going to be doing all the work by hand? What is the condition of the paint?

One thing I'll caution you is if you are doing it by hand, you're in for a long slog and it might not turn out like you'd expect. Investing in a dual action polisher and some pads will go a long way towards getting the job to turn out great...and take less time.

On their own, the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish are not to bad. I typically use them on cars with softer paint, but they should get you pretty decent results. They are easy to use and good to learn from before branching out to others.

The polish is not useless at all. If the defects are really mild, I would use it instead of the compound. There is no reason to use an overly aggressive product and remove more clear coat than needed. Also remember, compounds often will remove deeper defects but their will not give the best shine. It takes a follow up with a polish to get a really good shine out of the paint. Think of sandpaper. Compound is a large grit and polish is the fine grit you use to get the wood really smooth and ready for a varnish.

One of the first cars I polished out required a compound to knock out years of neglect. I thought it looked pretty good when I finished. However, after going back over it with a polish I was amazed by the difference. The car was much more shiny because surface was much more clear and I had removed the haziness left behind by the compound.
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      04-15-2020, 11:50 PM   #6
straightdraw84
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I used a rotary tool, yeah the polish did come in handy for the repairs I did:

Damage:


Repair mode:


Clay barred, Compounded, Polished and Waxed:

Last edited by straightdraw84; 04-18-2020 at 02:42 AM..
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      04-16-2020, 11:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straightdraw84 View Post
I used a rotary tool, yeah the polish did com in handy for the repairs I did:

Damage:


Repair mode:


Clay barred, Compounded, Polished and Waxed:
Nice!!

How did you get to fill evenly the rock chips? overfill the chips and wet sand them down? What about clear coating after?
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      04-17-2020, 02:14 PM   #8
straightdraw84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMachuca3d View Post
Nice!!

How did you get to fill evenly the rock chips? overfill the chips and wet sand them down? What about clear coating after?
I used a hypodermic needle to dip into the paint, filled in the chips mostly, then after those were dry, I wet sanded them with 5000 grit paper. Then I used another needed to put in clear coat, once dry I wet sanded that with 7000 grit. Keep in mind my primer was still there, that's why I jumped straight to base coat(after a thorough cleaning + rubbing alcohol).

Also the sanding was done with the eraser part of the pencil, with a small piece of sand paper crazy glued to it.
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      04-17-2020, 05:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straightdraw84 View Post
I used a hypodermic needle to dip into the paint, filled in the chips mostly, then after those were dry, I wet sanded them with 5000 grit paper. Then I used another needed to put in clear coat, once dry I wet sanded that with 7000 grit. Keep in mind my primer was still there, that's why I jumped straight to base coat(after a thorough cleaning + rubbing alcohol).

Also the sanding was done with the eraser part of the pencil, with a small piece of sand paper crazy glued to it.
Wow... How many hours on this work?
Pictures look very good. Great job!
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      04-18-2020, 02:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pabloxxi View Post
Wow... How many hours on this work?
Pictures look very good. Great job!
Didn't really tally it, it was a few for sure. Patience is your friend haha
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