[oranga]

I've been looking around and can't find a DIY specifically for the F30 N55 engine mounts. The driver side looks straightforward enough to replace, but the nut on top of the passenger side looks impossible to access.

Anyone have any tips on this? Is it possible to get access to it while under the car?

On a related note, I saw DIYs for E90s or F30 4-cyl that thread the tow hook into the engine and attach to the engine support bar. HOWEVER, on my car, (2015 335i N55 6MT RWD) the tow hook does not fit! I checked to make sure that the tow hook is the right one for my car and it does thread into my bumper. but the threaded hole in the engine is too small for it. What should i use instead?

[F32Fleet]

Did you clean the threads of both the tow hook and the block? The tow hook is supposed to work.

Try asking bmwtechnician.com

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Did you clean the threads of both the tow hook and the block? The tow hook is supposed to work.

Try asking bmwtechnician.com

You actually need an e series tow hook for the engine hoist process, not the one that comes in your f series tool kit. Gotta love bmw. 72157070643 - DRAFT HOOK - 1 Year Warranty - FEBEST # 1999-DH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCPBSVG...UTF8&psc=1

[oranga]

Originally Posted by Jvac

You actually need an e series tow hook for the engine hoist process, not the one that comes in your f series tool kit. Gotta love bmw. 72157070643 - DRAFT HOOK - 1 Year Warranty - FEBEST # 1999-DH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HCPBSVG...UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for that! I thought I was losing my mind here. Thank you also for the Amazon link, the genuine part costs $35 on fcpeuro, yikes

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by oranga

Thank you for that! I thought I was losing my mind here. Thank you also for the Amazon link, the genuine part costs $35 on fcpeuro, yikes

Credit goes to a couple of threads I found here while researching my own oil leak, but happy to pass along the info

[Pussiwillow]

Damn so an e90 tow hook for the f30 n55
Glad I saw this as I'm about to do my oil pan. Lol

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by Pussiwillow

Damn so an e90 tow hook for the f30 n55
Glad I saw this as I'm about to do my oil pan. Lol

I'm still trying to decide if I'm up to the job. It would probably be the most challenging diy I've ever done. Dealership quoted 1425 including parts which is considerably less than I expected and about the same as the indy shop I talked to, so I may just hand them the car. I still haven't figured out where to support the engine on the driver's side so the front subframe can come down.

[oranga]

Pussiwillow would you let us know how it goes? I am also planning on doing it sometime in the near future

Jvac I totally agree, I am going back and forth on it as well, but am leaning more and more towards diy. Also what do u mean by supporting the engine on the driver side? If u just use the e90 tow hook and an engine support bar, you should be set, right?

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by oranga

Pussiwillow would you let us know how it goes? I am also planning on doing it sometime in the near future

Jvac I totally agree, I am going back and forth on it as well, but am leaning more and more towards diy. Also what do u mean by supporting the engine on the driver side? If u just use the e90 tow hook and an engine support bar, you should be set, right?

Well, I'm not sure. I still haven't found any good information on lowering the front subframe to answer the question. In my mind, if you just support the engine from one side, and then release the mounts (which I believe are both bolted to the subframe), it won't be supported safely since it will be unbalanced. If I'm going to be working under a car with such heavy parts like engine and subframe dangling loose above me, I need to be sure they won't fall.
I don't think you'll get enough access to the oil pan just removing the passenger side mount. From what I read the subframe has to come down a few inches because the oil pickup hangs low into the oil pan so it can't just be slid out. It has to drop down quite a ways. If anyone has more information, please share. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything definitive. I believe there are threads for a second tow hook somewhere on the driver's side, but things like ac compressor, alternator, charge pipe etc are blocking view and might possibly need to be removed to get the tow hook in. I've been pushing the limits of my diy ability further and further lately but this job would be a big leap for me so I'm waiting until I am absolutely sure. In the meantime I dropped in some of that liqui moly motor oil saver stuff to see if it would slow or stop the leak.
Also I would bet a second pair of hands would be needed to work the jack while you line up bolts and bolt holes to reattach the subframe, so I'm waiting until I have someone else to help. If I find any more info I will share.

[Pussiwillow]

I'll update everyone when I'm finished with it and I'll try to document everything as I go, I'm still in the air if I'm doing rod bearings or not, as well as sway bars so mine may get a bit more advanced here, lol

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by Pussiwillow

I'll update everyone when I'm finished with it and I'll try to document everything as I go, I'm still in the air if I'm doing rod bearings or not, as well as sway bars so mine may get a bit more advanced here, lol

Pw, yesterday I got into ista and got the official repair docs for <engine support procedure> and <oil sump replacement> (which covers getting to and replacing the pan gasket). It's a little unclear but I believe they have you support the engine by a chain with two towhooks attached to the threaded holes on top of the cylinder head. One of them is right behind the oil filter housing and the other appears to be at the back. You'd have to remove the cowls near the windshield to see it which I didn't do yet since I'm not ready to tackle this job, but I imagine it's there. I wouldn't feel comfortable hoisting the engine by just the front support hook, since it would be an unbalanced load. I also realized my knockoff Amazon tow hook won't thread in all the way to the front hole because the flange that it has right above the threaded end gets caught on the nearby engine metal, so it would have to be filed down a bit. Anyone who bought one of them on my recommendation has my apologies. The bmw procedure still lists an e series tow hook as the appropriate tool for the job, but the oem part must be a little narrower than mine or it would have the same problem in this case.
Beyond that, there are a few bolts and a couple foam seals that are supposed to be replaced in the course of the job, so if anyone wants to see these docs pm me your email address and I'll send you a pdf.

[El Lechero]

Question on replacing the engine mounts. Any reason as to why? Symptoms? I think I'm going to need a mount replacement here and am trying to diagnose the issue to verify if it is the mounts, been cold out and haven't had time. But, my engine has a rattle on start up and only in reverse while holding the brake, feels like it's coming exactly from where the engine mount is

[Billfitz]

Have someone rev the engine while you look at it. It's normal for the engine to rock a little bit, but if it rocks more than a half inch the mounts may be shot.

[El Lechero]

It's not more of as a visible shaking, it has a rattle specifically at crack and a rattle in reverse only when the brake is applied. It did progress yesterday to sometimes in drive while coming to a stop. Not sure now if it is a Mount or not

[Billfitz]

Rattling would happen if the mounts are so severely trashed that parts which normally don't contact each other do. But if that's the case there would be very obvious visible rocking of the engine.

[El Lechero]

I'll go in and check it out when I get some time. Gotta do it here soon as it has started getting worse.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ile-stationary

Obviously this is not an F30 (I have a F32) or a n55 but this is exactly the issue I'm having but now it is in drive as well after letting it go for a bit..

[El Lechero]

Update if anyone was curious:

Lol okay so, got up under the car as the engine was not rocking at all. Was a loose charge pipe. I started assuming that once it progressed into drivability issues but it didn't have any codes and I was assuming if it wasn't even connected it would throw a code.. but yeah initially it loosened in the silicone hose and was resting on the steering rack and rattling. Then it eventually just popped off which caused the drivability issues. So definitely was not an engine Mount lol but it's all solid now

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by Jvac

Pw, yesterday I got into ista and got the official repair docs for <engine support procedure> and <oil sump replacement> (which covers getting to and replacing the pan gasket). It's a little unclear but I believe they have you support the engine by a chain with two towhooks attached to the threaded holes on top of the cylinder head. One of them is right behind the oil filter housing and the other appears to be at the back. You'd have to remove the cowls near the windshield to see it which I didn't do yet since I'm not ready to tackle this job, but I imagine it's there. I wouldn't feel comfortable hoisting the engine by just the front support hook, since it would be an unbalanced load. I also realized my knockoff Amazon tow hook won't thread in all the way to the front hole because the flange that it has right above the threaded end gets caught on the nearby engine metal, so it would have to be filed down a bit. Anyone who bought one of them on my recommendation has my apologies. The bmw procedure still lists an e series tow hook as the appropriate tool for the job, but the oem part must be a little narrower than mine or it would have the same problem in this case.
Beyond that, there are a few bolts and a couple foam seals that are supposed to be replaced in the course of the job, so if anyone wants to see these docs pm me your email address and I'll send you a pdf.

Dropped my oil pan, N55 2015 335i, only needed 1 tow hook.

[SCS55]

FWIW… 4 years owned 120,000 miles with 5,000 OCI's. Something like 16 oil changes?

Castrol 0W40 Euro 0W40
A few batches of Liqui Moly Molygen 0W40
and the rest Mogul Xcess Gen 2 5W 40

[Orion4]

Pretty Damn Clean!

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by SCS55

Dropped my oil pan, N55 2015 335i, only needed 1 tow hook.

Did you remove the entire subframe or drop it some number of inches with the jack support?

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by rlesko

Did you remove the entire subframe or drop it some number of inches with the jack support?

I'll be starting this next week. I believe that you only have to drop it down 2"-4"; you don't have to remove it.