[Hein Jockins]

I’ve searched and can’t find anything related to this. I have a hot climate package for B58 340 which, when the car is driven hard, kicks in additional cooling and brings my oil temps below operating temp. This is fine and great. My issue however is after sitting in the paddock for an hour and temps go down, the car needs a full 10-15 min of easy driving in comfort to reach operating temps before I bang on it. This is problematic when it’s time to go on track I either have to drive in comfort below 3k ish rpm for several laps or go drive around before a session for 15 minutes before I can go WOT.

My 340 isn’t my track car so this really hasn’t been a problem until I decided to take it out for the first time.

The car is tuned with bm3 which has a “max cooling” setting and this is not on. I presume this is just part of my hot climate package or possibly it’s just how the cooling works on this car I’m not sure but I’m desperate for a solution.

[lens]

Originally Posted by Hein Jockins

I’ve searched and can’t find anything related to this. I have a hot climate package for B58 340 which, when the car is driven hard, kicks in additional cooling and brings my oil temps below operating temp. This is fine and great. My issue however is after sitting in the paddock for an hour and temps go down, the car needs a full 10-15 min of easy driving in comfort to reach operating temps before I bang on it. This is problematic when it’s time to go on track I either have to drive in comfort below 3k ish rpm for several laps or go drive around before a session for 15 minutes before I can go WOT.

My 340 isn’t my track car so this really hasn’t been a problem until I decided to take it out for the first time.

The car is tuned with bm3 which has a “max cooling” setting and this is not on. I presume this is just part of my hot climate package or possibly it’s just how the cooling works on this car I’m not sure but I’m desperate for a solution.

Run slightly thicker oil (0w40, 5W30) and after the first time the car hits operating temperature, and you let it cool down, it's okay to WOT even if temps are down. The B58 keeps it's heat for 24-48 hours internally.

Just do a tire warm up lap, and you'll be fine afterward doing WOT, oil takes a ton of time to cool down in summer temperature.

[Hein Jockins]

Originally Posted by lens

Run slightly thicker oil (0w40, 5W30) and after the first time the car hits operating temperature, and you let it cool down, it's okay to WOT even if temps are down. The B58 keeps it's heat for 24-48 hours internally.

Just do a tire warm up lap, and you'll be fine afterward doing WOT, oil takes a ton of time to cool down in summer temperature.

Since oil viscosity is the concern, would a below operating oil temp (say 185*F) be the same level of viscosity regardless if it was at full operating temp an hour prior vs being 5 minutes into a cold morning start?

I understand that it takes less time to get to an operating temp when it’s not a complete cold start, but granted the oil temp thermostat is accurate, would colder oil not be ideal regardless?

[lens]

Originally Posted by Hein Jockins

Since oil viscosity is the concern, would a below operating oil temp (say 185*F) be the same level of viscosity regardless if it was at full operating temp an hour prior vs being 5 minutes into a cold morning start?

I understand that it takes less time to get to an operating temp when it’s not a complete cold start, but granted the oil temp thermostat is accurate, would colder oil not be ideal regardless?

Nope, so once you hit operating Temps, the impurities get burnt off and the oil is basically in its normal form, and once you turn off the car to let it cool, the oil is still hot as it hasn't been sitting in sub zero temps or 8-10 hours, so the oil isn't thick, it's still thin and hot enough to do its job flowing around the engine.

[Hein Jockins]

Originally Posted by lens

Nope, so once you hit operating Temps, the impurities get burnt off and the oil is basically in its normal form, and once you turn off the car to let it cool, the oil is still hot as it hasn't been sitting in sub zero temps or 8-10 hours, so the oil isn't thick, it's still thin and hot enough to do its job flowing around the engine.

Thanks for the response. I'm going to look into this more, and see if there's a possibly way to code out this additional cooling until it reaches operating temp. I'm skeptical of beating on the car until it's at an ideal temp.

[lens]

Originally Posted by Hein Jockins

Thanks for the response. I'm going to look into this more, and see if there's a possibly way to code out this additional cooling until it reaches operating temp. I'm skeptical of beating on the car until it's at an ideal temp.

The additional cooling only activates when dme detects you're basically going WOT and it reduces temps to improve performance, as when it gets too hot, it pull timing and power.


It only goes up to temp for fuel efficiency, operating temps is somewhere between 1/4 and halfway mark.

[Hein Jockins]

Originally Posted by lens

The additional cooling only activates when dme detects you're basically going WOT and it reduces temps to improve performance, as when it gets too hot, it pull timing and power.


It only goes up to temp for fuel efficiency, operating temps is somewhere between 1/4 and halfway mark.

My understanding of normal operating temp would be at this mark in the photo (somewhere around 220*F). The cooling I'm referring to will prevent the temps from getting above ~185*F. Which is right below the first 1/4 tick. Interestingly enough, the additional cooling will kick in even with moderate throttle. I'm not sure the "algorithm" the DME uses, but it has to be kept below 3k rpm with a steady application of throttle to avoid this cooling. I'm just surprised I couldn't find any info on this--unless people aren't too concerned about operating temps or don't track 340's. I come from the E9x M3 platform where oil temp/bearing paranoia is rampant so perhaps I'm the problem.

[Ivilla035]

Originally Posted by Hein Jockins

I’ve searched and can’t find anything related to this. I have a hot climate package for B58 340 which, when the car is driven hard, kicks in additional cooling and brings my oil temps below operating temp. This is fine and great. My issue however is after sitting in the paddock for an hour and temps go down, the car needs a full 10-15 min of easy driving in comfort to reach operating temps before I bang on it. This is problematic when it’s time to go on track I either have to drive in comfort below 3k ish rpm for several laps or go drive around before a session for 15 minutes before I can go WOT.

My 340 isn’t my track car so this really hasn’t been a problem until I decided to take it out for the first time.

The car is tuned with bm3 which has a “max cooling” setting and this is not on. I presume this is just part of my hot climate package or possibly it’s just how the cooling works on this car I’m not sure but I’m desperate for a solution.

Sometimes I notice with max cooling mode is that when I'm cruising at super low RPMs, the temp rises. If I drive the car hard with some WOT, the car cools faster. Scared me for sure. Anyways, switch to motul xcess 5w40 or another thicker oil.

[lens]

Originally Posted by Hein Jockins

My understanding of normal operating temp would be at this mark in the photo (somewhere around 220*F). The cooling I'm referring to will prevent the temps from getting above ~185*F. Which is right below the first 1/4 tick. Interestingly enough, the additional cooling will kick in even with moderate throttle. I'm not sure the "algorithm" the DME uses, but it has to be kept below 3k rpm with a steady application of throttle to avoid this cooling. I'm just surprised I couldn't find any info on this--unless people aren't too concerned about operating temps or don't track 340's. I come from the E9x M3 platform where oil temp/bearing paranoia is rampant so perhaps I'm the problem.

So that exact tick and halfway is normal if just cruising, as that provides the best fuel efficiency.

Now if the DME detects alot of WOT, it's going to kick in the additional cooling as you're now in "sporty" driving, my N55 did the same thing on the track, at some point, it was sitting at halfway, then the cooling kicked it and it would reduce to 1/4 or a bit below it.

Hot temps is fine as long as the needle isn't going beyond half and staying there, the car is designed to run that hot for fuel efficiency, it also knows when you're pushing the car so it'll cool down itself.

I also wouldn't be worried about bearings on the B58, they're coated for reduction of friction.

[SuperLomi]

Why not start your engine earlier to bring it up to temp if you're worried about it? Once your on the track the additional cooling shouldn't be an issue, just run a normal warmup lap for tires and go.

[Hein Jockins]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

Why not start your engine earlier to bring it up to temp if you're worried about it? Once your on the track the additional cooling shouldn't be an issue, just run a normal warmup lap for tires and go.

Next time I track it, I’ll start it earlier. However I was giving several minutes of idle with an initial lap of going 50% but the oil temp would stay at the first 1/4 tick. But according to lens this is a completely acceptable oil temperate even if the temp was never once at 220F mark since the beginning of the engine cycle.

[zinner]

After my first session in the morning oil temp remains in the zone even with an 1.5 hours between sessions. I am not sure what max cooling is doing, but I would just turn it off if it causes problems.