[Breezin]

I was planning on doing some mods to my car however with the research i have put into a DP, tune, and possibly a CP. It seems as though i wont be able to do anything with this extended warranty i ended up getting when i bought the car, and unfortunately my dealership is "one of those" that will literally go by the book and not cover anything. I would love to do all those mods even with the warranty and take my chances of them trying to prove a certain mod messed something up. Can anybody give me some advice, because i know most DPs will give a CEL and to get rid of that i would need a BM3 flash and that would be detected by the dealership from my understanding. Am i better off just running my car stock until the warranty ends, or is there a way around a CEL for a DP? Also can a aftermarket FMIC get blamed for something going wrong in a car? I just can't wrap my head around how that would void a warranty although i guess since a CP could void a warranty and that basically ensures the plastic grenade doesn't go off under my hood and ruin more stuff! Just a little bummed but willing to hear any and all advice.

Thanks

[theEZV]

If you are really concerned about warranty, stay stock. As far as mods go, especially DP ad tune, having a warranty claim denied is a real possibility. There is no way to tell ahead of time, as the situation will be different every time.

I've had modded cars for well over a decade and for the most part have not had any issues with warranty work on my modded Mazda and Subaru. With the BMW I've kept the power train stock so far as some of the prices I'm seeing for replacement parts and labor are downright scary.

[zinner]

paying for an extra warranty (which is silly IMO) and then tossing it out by modifying the car from stock isn't really a smart idea. It's like doubling down on stupid.

[afranke]

Depends on the shop doing the work. My extended warranty (third party) has covered a blown turbo, a snapped driveshaft, and two messed up diffs. For the turbo, the warranty company sent a guy out to inspect so the shop stripped all my obvious aftermarket stuff. On the driveshaft/diff, they just approved it without sending someone.

[FastF30]

Originally Posted by afranke

Depends on the shop doing the work. My extended warranty (third party) has covered a blown turbo, a snapped driveshaft, and two messed up diffs. For the turbo, the warranty company sent a guy out to inspect so the shop stripped all my obvious aftermarket stuff. On the driveshaft/diff, they just approved it without sending someone.

Exactly... these warranty's are 3rd party... you can take your car anywhere that does service... even with aftermarket parts they have to prove that was the culprit... more than likely the tune is safe from these guys since they don't have the tools to dig deep as long as you remove it completely and lock it... and as mentioned on something serious just take the parts off... my stock parts are in the trunk if need be but again the BMW dealership installed the parts (fmic/dp) so doesn't matter for me...

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by FastF30

Exactly... these warranty's are 3rd party... you can take your car anywhere that does service... even with aftermarket parts they have to prove that was the culprit... more than likely the tune is safe from these guys since they don't have the tools to dig deep as long as you remove it completely and lock it... and as mentioned on something serious just take the parts off... my stock parts are in the trunk if need be but again the BMW dealership installed the parts (fmic/dp) so doesn't matter for me...

Yeah exactly that was my thought as well

[TEST DRYVER]

Originally Posted by zinner

paying for an extra warranty (which is silly IMO) and then tossing it out by modifying the car from stock isn't really a smart idea. It's like doubling down on stupid.

I disagree. My factory warranty has already been flagged for having a tune (another year left on the factory warranty), but will theoretically still cover none tune (powertrain) related issues. I bought the car for my wife a few months ago, and also purchased an aftermarket warranty. I did it for resale purposes, as it does separate you from the rest when trying to sell your car, even if we don't keep the car over 2 years (which we probably wont). I could ask the aftermarket warranty to step in now, since BMW rejected the warranty work due to a tune (my fault of course), but that would be a horrible idea, because the aftermarket warranty would question why my factory warranty isn't covering the fix. I would then also be flagged from the aftermarket warranty.
But if I wait till my factory warranty is up, then use the aftermarket warranty for a claim, and took the car to a BMW specialist (a dealer might not be ideal in this situation), chances are, I'd be in the clear. Even if the aftermarket warranty company sends out a rep to approve the work, how is he going to be able to tell the difference between an OEM fmic, OEM chargepipes, OEM downpipe, vs aftermarket? It would be highly unlikely, unless by some rare circumstance, that rep used to work for BMW. Bottom line, it's a risk, as all of us take when we modify, but I'd be willing to take that risk that the car will be covered under the aftermarket warranty, once my factory warranty is up...
That's just my 2 cents of course... And this is all speculation, so please take this with a grain of salt. That being said, I work in the automotive industry and have owned several modified cars over the years. Some still covered under warranty, and some not. So I do have some experience in the matter, but my statement is still a theory...

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by TEST DRYVER

I disagree. My factory warranty has already been flagged for having a tune (another year left on the factory warranty), but will theoretically still cover none tune (powertrain) related issues. I bought the car for my wife a few months ago, and also purchased an aftermarket warranty. I did it for resale purposes, as it does separate you from the rest when trying to sell your car, even if we don't keep the car over 2 years (which we probably wont). I could ask the aftermarket warranty to step in now, since BMW rejected the warranty work due to a tune (my fault of course), but that would be a horrible idea, because the aftermarket warranty would question why my factory warranty isn't covering the fix. I would then also be flagged from the aftermarket warranty.
But if I wait till my factory warranty is up, then use the aftermarket warranty for a claim, and took the car to a BMW specialist (a dealer might not be ideal in this situation), chances are, I'd be in the clear. Even if the aftermarket warranty company sends out a rep to approve the work, how is he going to be able to tell the difference between an OEM fmic, OEM chargepipes, OEM downpipe, vs aftermarket? It would be highly unlikely, unless by some rare circumstance, that rep used to work for BMW. Bottom line, it's a risk, as all of us take when we modify, but I'd be willing to take that risk that the car will be covered under the aftermarket warranty, once my factory warranty is up...
That's just my 2 cents of course... And this is all speculation, so please take this with a grain of salt. That being said, I work in the automotive industry and have owned several modified cars over the years. Some still covered under warranty, and some not. So I do have some experience in the matter, but my statement is still a theory...

And hope and pray the issue has not been flagged in the service records, which it most likely has.

So you broke your axel....going to park your car until aftermarket warranty perhaps kicks in...lol.

Great idea!

[TEST DRYVER]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

And hope and pray the issue has not been flagged in the service records, which it most likely has.

So you broke your axel....going to park your car until aftermarket warranty perhaps kicks in...lol.

Great idea!

Where the hell did you get that idea? You're posting on the page with my warranty claim issue, so you've already read the story. Problem solved, parts fixed. You play with aftermarket, you might get burned. We all know the rules (or, we Should all know the rules).
All I'm saying is that I don't think it will be flagged for the aftermarket warranty company to see in the future. I can't imagine they have free access to all BMW (or any brand for that matter) service records. They would likely be able to see what you personally would be able to see if you ran my VIN through Carfax or Autocheck. I haven't ran my car through Carfax since the fix, but I'd be willing to bet money there's no information about my car getting flagged for a tune.
Maybe I'll pull my Carfax in a month or so to see...

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by FastF30

Exactly... these warranty's are 3rd party... you can take your car anywhere that does service... even with aftermarket parts they have to prove that was the culprit... more than likely the tune is safe from these guys since they don't have the tools to dig deep as long as you remove it completely and lock it... and as mentioned on something serious just take the parts off... my stock parts are in the trunk if need be but again the BMW dealership installed the parts (fmic/dp) so doesn't matter for me...

They don't have to prove anything to deny a claim.

You have to take them to court to make them provide proof.

[DrBall]

Originally Posted by afranke

Depends on the shop doing the work. My extended warranty (third party) has covered a blown turbo, a snapped driveshaft, and two messed up diffs. For the turbo, the warranty company sent a guy out to inspect so the shop stripped all my obvious aftermarket stuff. On the driveshaft/diff, they just approved it without sending someone.

was your car tuned when these parts all broke, or was it a piggyback?

also, who was your 3rd party warranty through?

im just curious since i have the itch to tune but have 2.5 years left on an aftermarket warranty that was thrown in when i bought the car.

[ProperBimmer]

Speaking from 19 years of ownership and 4 n54/n55 335s......

1.)do not ever buy a bmw without a warranty! EVER!!!
2.) unless you have a second car and are handy fixing the n54/n55 issues don't fbo or heavily mod at all.
3.) is you have to mod, stick to the oem mperf shit, it's there for a reason. Dinan is good but the service and quality has gone to shit. I battled them for 4 months to cover a bmw warranty matched issue a tune caused on my n54 335.
4.) if you want some extra nuts on top of mppk, mpe and the oem stuff, toss a dinantronics basic or jb+ on for a couple extra psi then take that shit out for bmw service.
5.) if you need more nuts that that in your car, upgrade to f80/f82. Prices are coming down
6.) remember regardless of what happens on the streets of Texas or New Mexico..... bimmers are not drag racing cars, and chicks don't give a fuck about how fast your car is!! Lol

Simple as that, done deal.

***this is all my opinion of course, I've owned everything over the years and BMW's are shit as far as reliability goes in my book, overpriced, underwhelming. I however am addicted to the cars, it's the norm for me and I can't change!!! Lol. The shallowness, vanity and superiority that owning and driving bimmers has done to my brain has severely clouded my judgement over the years so consider that before you waste your "I finally landed a good career, and can stop tuning civics and Subbys" money on payments to bmwfs. If you like modding heavily, drag racing and reliable Big HP builds, go to another brand.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Breezin

I was planning on doing some mods to my car however with the research i have put into a DP, tune, and possibly a CP. It seems as though i wont be able to do anything with this extended warranty i ended up getting when i bought the car, and unfortunately my dealership is "one of those" that will literally go by the book and not cover anything. I would love to do all those mods even with the warranty and take my chances of them trying to prove a certain mod messed something up. Can anybody give me some advice, because i know most DPs will give a CEL and to get rid of that i would need a BM3 flash and that would be detected by the dealership from my understanding. Am i better off just running my car stock until the warranty ends, or is there a way around a CEL for a DP? Also can a aftermarket FMIC get blamed for something going wrong in a car? I just can't wrap my head around how that would void a warranty although i guess since a CP could void a warranty and that basically ensures the plastic grenade doesn't go off under my hood and ruin more stuff! Just a little bummed but willing to hear any and all advice.

Thanks

I have the same yr/model as you, and the same issues. I've spoken to several guys who work at BMW dealers. They all told me not to do the downpipe under warranty. When it's up I might go with a less restrictive catted downpipe like a Wagner. I'm not going to deal with the smell of a catless.
They also all told me not to go with a full tune like a JB4/BM3 since the BMW tech computer will spot it immediately. Went with a JB Stage1 which I can easily remove myself before I visit a dealer. (Takes 10mm wrench, small clippers to cut 3-4 tie-wraps, small flat screwdriver to open plastic wire connections and small flashlight depending on time of day. That's it.) And if you check ahead of time you can get a trade-up deal that lets you trade-up to a JB4 within a year by paying the price difference. (JB Stage1 connects to both the TMAP and MAP sensors while the JB+ and Dinan products only connect to TMAP.)
Those are the two mods that concern me in terms of warranty and extended warranty. The other items are just replacements that would be replaced if they failed like charge pipe, intercooler, shocks, springs, brakes, etc. They are unlikely to have the finger pointed at them for a catastrophic failure of some sort. Hope this helps.

[T_flare]

Just came back from bmw west houston. Under warranty, I have active8 piggyback, cts intake, er charged pipe and awe exhaust with mid pipe.

Engine fan broke and engine fan controller malfunction. They repair with under warranty. They did the full car inspection and diagnostic. No where they comment my car had mods.

Find a good SA to work with. In my case if engine problems then I'll take blame. If sensors, fans, a/c issues occur, I expect them to repair under warranty.

[Breezin]

I decided a couple weeks ago to go ahead and get ER charge pipe, FMIC, new wheels, and springs. I only have 3 years on the warranty, by then the car will be close to being paid off and i'll just mod it then as much as i want.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Breezin

I decided a couple weeks ago to go ahead and get ER charge pipe, FMIC, new wheels, and springs. I only have 3 years on the warranty, by then the car will be close to being paid off and i'll just mod it then as much as i want.

I don't know how much research you've done on the mods you said you are going to do. I just did extensive research and installed most of what you mentioned.

Did the ER charge pipe. Installation on an F30 x-drive automatic wasn't as easy as it appeared from instructions. My tech had to move the AC to get enough clearance and it was still tight. Make sure to change out the o-ring at the throttle body end and the two o-rings at the intercooler. i have the part numbers and prices.

Most of the intercoolers out there are heavy bar & plate units that work great at high rpms on a track. I was looking for something that would be responsive on my daily driver. Mike at Extreme Power House was very helpful in choosing a unit that would work best in my climate and conditions. I ended up getting a Wagner Competition EVO1 which is a tube/fin design like the stock BMW intercooler but larger with better flow. I can run it hard all day on the street and never get heat sink or increased lag. Whatever your intercooler goals, Mike is a great resource.

My spring choices came down to:
1) Eibach, 10% stiffer, lower 0.8" front/ 0.6" rear. X-drives are higher in the front anyway so this brings the front height down a bit. (They make springs for other brands who just mark them up 2x-3x the price.)
2) Dinan, about 30% stiffer, lower about 0.75" all around.
3) H&R, much stiffer and about 1.5" drop all around.

I went with the Eibachs. Price was great and did exactly what I wanted without rattling my teeth. If you are going to do springs the labor is pretty much the same to do the struts and shocks at the same time. I went with the new Koni Active Red units which both smooth out the highway bumps and potholes, and are a performance shock when you hit the turns. (Technology that Koni developed with McLaren in Europe.) Eibach and Koni tested these two products together in the US and they work really well. i read all of the tech stuff ahead of time and their descriptions were very accurate once I got to drive them on my car.

I've got photos of all this stuff if any of it would help you out.

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by johnung

I don't know how much research you've done on the mods you said you are going to do. I just did extensive research and installed most of what you mentioned.

Did the ER charge pipe. Installation on an F30 x-drive automatic wasn't as easy as it appeared from instructions. My tech had to move the AC to get enough clearance and it was still tight. Make sure to change out the o-ring at the throttle body end and the two o-rings at the intercooler. i have the part numbers and prices.

Most of the intercoolers out there are heavy bar & plate units that work great at high rpms on a track. I was looking for something that would be responsive on my daily driver. Mike at Extreme Power House was very helpful in choosing a unit that would work best in my climate and conditions. I ended up getting a Wagner Competition EVO1 which is a tube/fin design like the stock BMW intercooler but larger with better flow. I can run it hard all day on the street and never get heat sink or increased lag. Whatever your intercooler goals, Mike is a great resource.

My spring choices came down to:
1) Eibach, 10% stiffer, lower 0.8" front/ 0.6" rear. X-drives are higher in the front anyway so this brings the front height down a bit. (They make springs for other brands who just mark them up 2x-3x the price.)
2) Dinan, about 30% stiffer, lower about 0.75" all around.
3) H&R, much stiffer and about 1.5" drop all around.

I went with the Eibachs. Price was great and did exactly what I wanted without rattling my teeth. If you are going to do springs the labor is pretty much the same to do the struts and shocks at the same time. I went with the new Koni Active Red units which both smooth out the highway bumps and potholes, and are a performance shock when you hit the turns. (Technology that Koni developed with McLaren in Europe.) Eibach and Koni tested these two products together in the US and they work really well. i read all of the tech stuff ahead of time and their descriptions were very accurate once I got to drive them on my car.

I've got photos of all this stuff if any of it would help you out.

Yeah i did extensive research on everything, i basically had everything in mind before i even purchased my car. Wasn't set in stone until i actually bought it and started to figure out what i could do with what i had such as for the warranty and my budget. I installed my ER charge pipe myself and bought all the necessary parts (extra C-clip and o-rings) install took me about 2 hours i found it was much easier with a friend helping me guide the pipe through.

Springs i went with the dinan, and i got the bump stops as well. I think they ride great and is an improvement to what i had previously (Stock). The drop is perfect because i didn't want to go any lower due to the amount of snow we get and the build up of ice and snow under the car and in the wheel wells is pretty serious here.

Wheels i went with the Matte black 18x8.5 VMR v718's, i haven't installed them because I learned a couple days ago they no longer make the V718's and if something happened to 1 of them i would have to buy a whole new set so the local company that sold them to me told me i could return them in 90 days so im thinking thats what i might do, and continue my search for another set. Not a top priority at this time because the stock wheels i have i think are great looking.

As for the FMIC I'm going to get the Wagner Evo1 thru X-PH as well, i thought it made sense for my use and could relate to everything you said.

As for the struts im going to wait until next spring to get the Koni's, i was looking at them for my previous car and i think they are the way to go for BMWs. If you don't mind sending me or posting pictures of your car that'd be great.

Can you feel any difference with the FMIC on warmer days? I noticed that the past week here when its about 90+ degrees the car doesn't respond quite like it would when i first leave to work early in the morning. We did have a day of 65 degrees and the car seemed like a whole new beast. Can't wait for the temps to drop in the coming weeks to around 50 and see how it does, cause you know turbos love that cold air!

Thanks for your post by the way, i couldn't agree more with what you had said and the options you were debating!

[johnung]

Nice to hear about your experiences. As a matter of fact I got a chance to really test out the intercooler today. I installed the ER charge pipe and the Wagner Competition EVO1 intercooler. Before these mods my oil temperature often hit between 245-250 degrees. Today the weather was brutally hot with 98 degrees and about 95% humidity. In just regular driving in this hot weather before the oil temp would be up to the 245-250 degrees pretty quickly and stay there. Today I purposely ran the car as hard as I could for 30 minutes and then for 30 minutes back to home. Amazingly the oil temp stayed between 225-235 degrees, never higher than that. I understand that the thermostat opens up the flow to the oil cooler when the oil temp hits about 230 degrees.

I expected some difference but this is quite remarkable. The car "feels" like it flows freely and is more responsive. I didn't realize that I was hitting heat soak conditions before, because I had nothing to compare it to. Now there is no heat soak at all. Pull after pull the car never felt stymied by heat build up. Performance was always the same!

I really drove Mike crazy with question after question, but he was right. The Wagner Competition series with its tube/fin design flows quickly and recovers quickly. It's a huge improvement over the stock intercooler without the increased delays at lower speeds. Much better compared to the heavier bar & plate designs that are made for constant high rev racing. I was assuming that spending another $50 for the Competition EVO2 vs the slightly smaller Competition EVO1 was the way to go. Mike was insistent that if I wanted the most responsive solution than the smaller Competition EVO1 was correct. He was absolutely right! Good luck with the rest of your mods!

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by johnung

Nice to hear about your experiences. As a matter of fact I got a chance to really test out the intercooler today. I installed the ER charge pipe and the Wagner Competition EVO1 intercooler. Before these mods my oil temperature often hit between 245-250 degrees. Today the weather was brutally hot with 98 degrees and about 95% humidity. In just regular driving in this hot weather before the oil temp would be up to the 245-250 degrees pretty quickly and stay there. Today I purposely ran the car as hard as I could for 30 minutes and then for 30 minutes back to home. Amazingly the oil temp stayed between 225-235 degrees, never higher than that. I understand that the thermostat opens up the flow to the oil cooler when the oil temp hits about 230 degrees.

I expected some difference but this is quite remarkable. The car "feels" like it flows freely and is more responsive. I didn't realize that I was hitting heat soak conditions before, because I had nothing to compare it to. Now there is no heat soak at all. Pull after pull the car never felt stymied by heat build up. Performance was always the same!

I really drove Mike crazy with question after question, but he was right. The Wagner Competition series with its tube/fin design flows quickly and recovers quickly. It's a huge improvement over the stock intercooler without the increased delays at lower speeds. Much better compared to the heavier bar & plate designs that are made for constant high rev racing. I was assuming that spending another $50 for the Competition EVO2 vs the slightly smaller Competition EVO1 was the way to go. Mike was insistent that if I wanted the most responsive solution than the smaller Competition EVO1 was correct. He was absolutely right! Good luck with the rest of your mods!

That's what i was expecting to hear, and matter of fact i took my car on a 4 hour trip yesterday and the temperature was 90 degrees with very high humidity. I noticed that on the car ride at peak temperatures my car wasn't as responsive, but when i was headed home around dusk and the temps cooled down to about 75 the car was way more responsive and was way easier to accelerate than earlier on in the day. Mind you I'm still running the stock FMIC, and after reading what you stated and your findings along with my ride yesterday, i think its time to get the Wagner Evo1. Although its almost winter time and i wont have issues with temp, i think it would still benefit my car to get it now, and let it soak up some of the winter weather. I'm curious on what the engine temp would be in the winter time with the Wagner FMIC. As you said previously my car yesterday was around 245-250 and never goes over 250. I wonder what the temp will be in the winter, if it will be under 235? I guess we will have to see. Thanks for posting about the FMIC because i'm thinking friday after i get paid i will be getting the wagner and hopefully have it installed by the end of the following week, barring my schedule.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Breezin

That's what i was expecting to hear, and matter of fact i took my car on a 4 hour trip yesterday and the temperature was 90 degrees with very high humidity. I noticed that on the car ride at peak temperatures my car wasn't as responsive, but when i was headed home around dusk and the temps cooled down to about 75 the car was way more responsive and was way easier to accelerate than earlier on in the day. Mind you I'm still running the stock FMIC, and after reading what you stated and your findings along with my ride yesterday, i think its time to get the Wagner Evo1. Although its almost winter time and i wont have issues with temp, i think it would still benefit my car to get it now, and let it soak up some of the winter weather. I'm curious on what the engine temp would be in the winter time with the Wagner FMIC. As you said previously my car yesterday was around 245-250 and never goes over 250. I wonder what the temp will be in the winter, if it will be under 235? I guess we will have to see. Thanks for posting about the FMIC because i'm thinking friday after i get paid i will be getting the wagner and hopefully have it installed by the end of the following week, barring my schedule.

Cool! Our cars are the same year and model so I would expect you to have the same result. I have to believe that keeping the engine out of heat soak range has got to extend the life of key internal components while still getting to enjoy driving the car harder. Please post your experience.
I have a relative in Andover, VT. You've got some awesome roads in Vermont to enjoy your 335ix.

P.S. Remember to get the Wagner Competition EVO1 which is a tube/fin design like the stock intercooler. The Wagner Performance EVO1 is a heavier bar & plate design like most of the other aftermarket units out there.
The part# on the o-rings is 13-71-8-596-850. They fit inside the groove of the TIC pipe and Charge pipe where they each connect to the intercooler. Cost me $5.89 each X2 from a BMW dealer (totaled $23.56 inc shipping from MD, getbmwparts.com). If/when you replace the Charge pipe, there is an o-ring that sits inside the groove where it attaches to the throttle body (part# 13-71-7-568-031 $4.06) Definitely worth replacing since a leak can be difficult to troubleshoot and expensive to replace later. One of my 4-yr old factory o-rings was obviously about to leak. Good luck!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Breezin

That's what i was expecting to hear, and matter of fact i took my car on a 4 hour trip yesterday and the temperature was 90 degrees with very high humidity. I noticed that on the car ride at peak temperatures my car wasn't as responsive, but when i was headed home around dusk and the temps cooled down to about 75 the car was way more responsive and was way easier to accelerate than earlier on in the day. Mind you I'm still running the stock FMIC, and after reading what you stated and your findings along with my ride yesterday, i think its time to get the Wagner Evo1. Although its almost winter time and i wont have issues with temp, i think it would still benefit my car to get it now, and let it soak up some of the winter weather. I'm curious on what the engine temp would be in the winter time with the Wagner FMIC. As you said previously my car yesterday was around 245-250 and never goes over 250. I wonder what the temp will be in the winter, if it will be under 235? I guess we will have to see. Thanks for posting about the FMIC because i'm thinking friday after i get paid i will be getting the wagner and hopefully have it installed by the end of the following week, barring my schedule.

As a followup:
The temperature the last two days has dropped into the 70's but it has been raining constantly so humidity is 100%. My oil temp has actually been higher, in the 240-250 degree range than it was when the temp was 98 degrees. But the important thing is no heat soak at all. With the new Wagner Competition EVO1 the power is always there. I forget all my physics from years ago but I guess that the saturated air is more difficult to compress and cool, so the engine is running hotter. But it's all a guess with only an oil temperature gauge and no other monitoring tools. The important thing is that the responsiveness and power are there all of the time and no heat soak condition under heavy use as it had before.

[Breezin]

Originally Posted by johnung

Cool! Our cars are the same year and model so I would expect you to have the same result. I have to believe that keeping the engine out of heat soak range has got to extend the life of key internal components while still getting to enjoy driving the car harder. Please post your experience.
I have a relative in Andover, VT. You've got some awesome roads in Vermont to enjoy your 335ix.

P.S. Remember to get the Wagner Competition EVO1 which is a tube/fin design like the stock intercooler. The Wagner Performance EVO1 is a heavier bar & plate design like most of the other aftermarket units out there.
The part# on the o-rings is 13-71-8-596-850. They fit inside the groove of the TIC pipe and Charge pipe where they each connect to the intercooler. Cost me $5.89 each X2 from a BMW dealer (totaled $23.56 inc shipping from MD, getbmwparts.com). If/when you replace the Charge pipe, there is an o-ring that sits inside the groove where it attaches to the throttle body (part# 13-71-7-568-031 $4.06) Definitely worth replacing since a leak can be difficult to troubleshoot and expensive to replace later. One of my 4-yr old factory o-rings was obviously about to leak. Good luck!

Sorry I was on vacation for 2 weeks...2 weeks away from my car was too long, but in better news. I ordered all the parts, i should have the Wagner intercooler in by mid next week, and the charge pipe and o-rings should be here in the next couple of days! I also returned my dinan springs and switched them out for the Eibechs (SP?) i felt from what i was hearing that everyone that had them absolutely loved them. Hopefully over the next two weeks after everything is installed i will have updated pictures, and possibly be able to hit the mountain roads before the snow comes haha.

I also went and bought a new pair of non RFTs; Hankook EvoII and the ride feels so much better. Not sure if you're still on your RFTs but i would consider switching if at all possible.

Thanks by the way!