08-05-2013, 10:16 PM | #1 |
Enlisted Member
![]() 58
Rep 42
Posts |
DIY - F30 OEM Backup / reversing camera retrofit installed!
The 2013 car I purchased came with PDC and Navigation but did not have a backup cam. Initially I thought the backup cam wasn’t important, but after a couple months of ownership, I began to have too many occasions where I said to myself, why didn’t I get it….
So, after some research I found Bimmer-tech and was pleased to see they offered an OEM retrofit kit for the backup camera. After some emailing with Patryk @ Bimmer-tech, he confirmed my options would make this a relatively painless install. And for the most part, it was! First, for an easy install and proper compatibility, you’ll need the following two options: 1) iDrive Navigation 2) Park Distance Control (rear only is OK) A week later a box arrived via DHL containing the following items: OEM camera module (and OEM mounting screw) OEM trunk handle with OEM camera pre-installed Wiring harness and camera cable ODBII cable with RJ45 on other end to connect to computer for programming OEM wire taps for 3 of the wires (yes, BMW makes wire taps for repair purposes) Several plastic wire ties Install manual After reading through the manual, and a couple clarification emails with Bimmer-tech, I felt I was ready to tackle this project. First thing was to follow the advice from Patryk (and the manual) and make certain sure I had the following tools: #2 Philips screwdriver, torx driver with 3 bit sizes, 10mm socket wrench, wire cutters (to trim the wire ties), a plastic poking tool (to help insert the pins into the factory harnesses), and a set of plastic trim removal tools. Definitely be sure to get trim removal tools! The retrofit required I remove the following interior parts from car: Under dash panel Front/rear door floor sill trim B pillar lower trim Rear seat shoulder bolster trim Trunk trim on right side Trunk floor trim Trunk lid trim Dash trim A/C and radio/CD trim iDrive Navigation unit (Nav did not need to be fully removed, just enough to expose the main harness). Took about 2.5 hours to remove all trim pieces (and about 1 hour to reinstall later). The biggest pain was to remove the OEM trunk release handle. The trunk release handle is held in place with pressure clips. The trouble is the clips are tight and the space for your hands is small. Finally got it after 30 minutes of fiddling. From there I ran the camera cable starting at the trunk handle hole, through the trunk to the underdash area on driver’s side. Next, was to run the main harness which starts under the drivers dash (and attaches to the camera module). Three wires go to the iDrive unit. All 3 wires came with the appropriate pins so all I had to do was push them into the corresponding holes in the main iDrive connector. Fairly easy once I removed the iDrive unit. The next two wires went to the communication protocol that allows modules to talk with each other. These wires are tapped using the supplied OEM wire taps and the wires are located along the driver’s floor, in a harness that runs to the driver seat. Not terribly difficult since the manual described the correct wire colors and those were easy to find in the seat harness. Last two wires were +12V and GND. GND was a short run that ran behind the carpet to the drivers side underdash lamp. Here I used a supplied OEM tap to connect the camera GND to the lamp GND. Easy. The +12V wire was run along the floor, next to the camera cable until I reached the rear fusebox located in the trunk floor. The rear fusebox came with the 5A fuse already installed in the empty fuse port already designed for the camera module. All I had to do was push the pin into the empty slot. It was a tight fit and the plastic push tool helped. I completed mounting the camera module under the dash (perfect fit) and then returned the iDrive back to the dash and I reinstalled the dash trim. I then contacted Bimmer-tech and received an email advising me of software to pre-install so they can connect to my car. Requires a Windows PC and Internet connection where your car is located. The software took about 20 minutes to download and install and then I contacted Bimmer-tech to connect. Once they contacted me, the programmer took over and programmed my car. Took about 1 hour to program and test. The OEM camera works the same as if it was factory installed. I compared to a friend’s car that has a factory installed rear camera and indeed this one works the same. ![]() The best part about the rear cam is that the video image appears almost immediately after starting car and placing car into Reverse. For anyone with CIC iDrive this will be a huge plus since the iDrive typically takes up to 20 seconds to startup and show the PDC image. I highly recommend anyone with iDrive Navigation and PDC (rear is OK) to consider the rear camera retrofit. You won’t be disappointed. Based on my research Bimmer-tech is the only vendor offering a true OEM solution. And Patryk and his programmer were a pleasure to work with. I would recommend Bimmer-tech. BTW, Bimmer-tech also offers a non OEM retrofit which is less $ and also works with cars lacking PDC. I cannot comment on this kit as I have no experience. Just saw it on their website and briefly discussed with Patryk. Here's some pics from the kit and the final view in iDrive. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by BMW_F30; 08-18-2013 at 04:22 PM.. |
Appreciate
13
|
08-20-2013, 08:59 PM | #3 |
General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 11828
Rep 45,651
Posts
Drives: 2018 Alpina B6 650ix GC
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston, TX
|
Nice retrofit and write-up!
![]()
__________________
![]() 2018 F06 Alpina B6 650ix GC; Space Grey; Vermillion Red Nappa Leather; Executive; B&O; Driving Assistant 2017 F15 X5 xDrive50i MSport; Glacier Silver Metallic; Black Dakota Leather; Executive; B&O; Driving Assistant; RSE |
Appreciate
0
|
12-15-2013, 04:06 PM | #6 |
Major
![]() ![]() 692
Rep 1,493
Posts
Drives: 2020 M340Xi (G20)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
|
Rear View Camera
Hi,
Sure sounds like a super retrofit. I have a 2014 328i that came with the Tech package so it has the full nav system and a little larger iDrive. Since I got the car this August, I also have had second thoughts as to why I did not get a rear view camera. Is it possible to get one and how difficult is it to install? |
Appreciate
0
|
12-25-2013, 03:32 PM | #7 | |
Banned
![]() 632
Rep 2,013
Posts |
Quote:
We have a rear view camera kit for any 3-series. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-28-2013, 06:22 AM | #9 |
Banned
![]() 632
Rep 2,013
Posts |
Correct.
You might also want to check our aftermarket rear view camera with dynamic parking lines: http://www.bimmer-tech.net/shop/bmw-...amera-retrofit |
Appreciate
1
evtut160.00 |
04-20-2014, 01:07 PM | #10 |
Tanzanite
![]() 11
Rep 25
Posts
Drives: 2019 BMW 330i xdrive G20
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Woodstock Ontario
|
cable part number
Does anyone know the part number for the cable to the camera?
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 11:50 AM | #11 |
Major
![]() 1383
Rep 1,279
Posts |
In my research on RealOEM and ordering the parts myself, the part numbers are:
Backup Camera: 66539240351 Trunk/Handle mount for camera: 51247368753 Retrofit Cable: 61122154696 Control unit Bracket: 66539232797 Screw for Control Unit Bracket(x1): 07149158182 Control Unit: There are several part #'s available based on different production times on the modules. As far as I can tell, they are interchangeable, I will verify this once my cable arrives and I complete the retrofit. If you order it new, you should get the newest one. Part #'s(listed from oldest to newest): 66539267915, 66539282420, 66539288002, 66539302256. Coding(if you already have a laptop/software and cable) should be nothing more than a VO code to add option 3AG. Again, once I complete my retrofit, I will post an update with how mine went. If anyone has any questions about finding or ordering parts, please feel free to PM me. Last edited by roxxor; 04-23-2014 at 08:29 PM.. Reason: Listed wrong part # for cable |
Appreciate
0
|
04-22-2014, 03:02 PM | #12 | |
Major
![]() ![]() 692
Rep 1,493
Posts
Drives: 2020 M340Xi (G20)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
|
Quote:
Thanks!
__________________
Al
![]() 2020 M340Xi| ZDA| ZDY| ZPP| ZPX| 1CR| 1PL| 688| 6NW| 2VFH| Retired: 2014 328i BMW CCA |
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-23-2014, 06:28 PM | #13 | |
Tanzanite
![]() 11
Rep 25
Posts
Drives: 2019 BMW 330i xdrive G20
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Woodstock Ontario
|
Quote:
Thank you very much as for the software and cable I am looking in to purchasing one just want to be sure I get a reliable one. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-29-2014, 03:41 AM | #14 | |
Enlisted Member
![]() ![]() 0
Rep 41
Posts |
Quote:
any update on your retrofit? I am very interested to do this retrofit also. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-04-2014, 12:39 PM | #16 |
Major
![]() 1383
Rep 1,279
Posts |
No update yet, still waiting for the cable to arrive from overseas. I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible with the 2014 model, as any model can have the backup camera. Part numbers should be the same as well.
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-22-2014, 06:11 PM | #18 |
Major
![]() 1383
Rep 1,279
Posts |
So after what seemed like an eternity, the retrofit cable I ordered(Part #61122154696) finally arrived on Friday, which meant I knew what I would be doing with my weekend! Unfortunately, this came with good and bad news.
The Bad News: That particular part # is apparently a retrofit cable set for a F10 5 series. I discovered this when I had my car apart and went to unwind the cable, and discovered that the camera cable was only about 4' long and the other cable harness was the longer one, which makes sense since the F10 camera control module is located in the trunk. However, all is not lost!! The Good News: My retrofit is 100% complete and working, because the cable is still exactly what is needed to connect everything. The only change is that I had to figure out how to mount the control unit in the trunk, then run the remaining harness to the headunit in the front, which I will detail below. All of the parts I used in the retrofit. The OEM wire taps were included with the retrofit cable, the fuse ended up not being needed since as described in the OP's writeup, the 5A fuse needed is already in place in the fusebox. Also, if you end up using the cable I listed, you will not need the OEM Screw for the camera mount, since it will not be in its original location. ![]() In the picture of the passenger's side trunk area(with cover removed) below, I have outlined where I ended up mounting the control unit so that it was secure and fit comfortably. One thing to note is that if you put it in this area, you do have to make sure there is enough clearance for the trunk arms when they are closing. I have also highlighted the grounding point I used, as well as where I ran the wires towards the front of the car and the path I used to run the power wire down to the rear fuse box. Green wire w/ Blue Stripe = Power(this had the connector for the fuse box already attached Brown wire = Ground(this came with a ring connector which was perfect for the mounting point I used) ![]() As mentioned above, the fuse connection is a simple "plug it in" thing. The fuse for the Rear Camera (from ISTA) is Socket 154, illustrated below. Just use a 10mm socket to remove the fuse box, locate the correct connector on the backside, and plug it in. ![]() After this, you will be left with the wires that are run to the front of the car. You will need to separate about 2 feet of the CAN wires(Green and Orange/Green) from the 3 wires(red, white, and Shield) that run to the CIC, the rest you can leave them bundled together. The 3 CIC wires go to the back of the headunit to the large MOST connector. The Pin assignments from ISTA for cars with CIC are: Red - Pin #18, Shield - Pin #27, and White - Pin #28. I apologize for not getting pictures of this part, it was getting late and I forgot to snap a pic. The connector is labeled well though so you should have no problems identifying which slots to use. As you work on the MOST connector, you will notice that there are 2 wires that are the same color as the CAN wires, HOWEVER, despite being the same color, at this location they serve a different function and cannot be tapped/used as the signal is not correct. But, since with this cable we are not going to the driver's side underdash, we need a new location to connect the two CAN wires. Thankfully, the wires we need are conveniently located nearby at the iDrive controller. You can remove the trim piece with the controller, and voila, there are your Green and Orange/Green wires. Run the 2 wires from the harness to this area, and then use the OEM wire taps(which are quite secure by the way) to connect them. At this point, you are all done with the physical install. For the coding, the tutorial that comes with E-Sys is pretty helpful on how to change the VO code in your car. As I mentioned in an above post, you just need to add option code 3AG and finish the process. If anyone is wanting to attempt this or has any questions, I am always willing to help out! Final Result: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Appreciate
4
|
06-26-2014, 11:32 AM | #19 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 281
Rep 638
Posts |
Excellent write-up roxxor. I was looking at doing it DIY and couldn't find what cable was the one to connect the camera to the control unit.
I hope you don't mind me asking a couple of questions: Can you confirm the only parts you require in post #11? Also, did it look like the plugs on the end of the camera cable could be dismantled allowing you to make up a longer cable yourself so the control box could be mounted in its original location? Finally, you mention which pins connect to the CIC. I have NBT, so I don't suppose you could find out which pins I would need to use could you? |
Appreciate
0
|
06-26-2014, 09:39 PM | #21 | |
Major
![]() 1383
Rep 1,279
Posts |
Quote:
As for the camera cable itself, it would be pretty hard to splice into it. After researching it, you could buy a longer HSD cable(part #61129241791) which would allow you to run mount the control unit in the original location, but that would be an added expense since the retrofit cable set is all that is needed. The way the unit it mounted in the trunk behind the side panel, it is not visible at all, even if you open the battery compartment. Pin layouts should be the same for NBT as well since I don't believe the MOST connector pinout changed. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask! ![]() |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-26-2014, 10:21 PM | #22 |
Major
![]() 1383
Rep 1,279
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|