10-14-2022, 02:53 PM | #1 |
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Coolant bleed process not starting
So I just changed my n55 oil thermostat gasket and wanted to bleed the cooling system but can’t seem to get the process started.
Steps I’ve used are: key in pocket, accessory mode, heating temp max, fan speed lowest, press down on accelerator for 10+ seconds. I’ve tried variations on the steps including low beam on/off, sport mode, air recirculation on/off, door open/closed, seatbelt on/off but it just refuses to start. Went for a 40km drive yesterday and the car runs fine, no check engine lights or errors, coolant temperature is normal. Does anyone have similar experiences or suggestions for what to try to get the bleed process going? |
10-15-2022, 12:13 PM | #4 |
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I wonder if will fail if the battery has insufficient charge. I don't know what to tell you.
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10-15-2022, 04:00 PM | #5 |
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Here is the process for F30, very recently used it myself for a hundred thousand mile coolant drain/ refill. I ran it twice out of paranoia and still had to add some over the next couple drive cycles. Presented with the low coolant message upon cold start, topped off and good to go.
Switch the ignition on. Switch on low-beam headlight and the hazard-warning lights. Make sure the driving experience switch is not in the ECO PRO switch position. Adjust the heating to maximum temperature and adjust the blower to the lowest level. Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s. The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. The engine must not be started. The electric coolant pump is enabled. Approx. 12 min. after starting the cooling system bleeding routine, the electric coolant pump will automatically be switched off and the cooling system bleeding routine is completed. Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank to the maximum mark. |
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10-15-2022, 09:17 PM | #6 | ||
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01-06-2023, 01:54 PM | #7 |
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You dont need to put the hazards on. Just keep your key in the centre console near the reciever. Dont touch any function of the car or open or closing the doors/bonnet/boot. Use a battery maintainer as the process wont start if your battery voltage is low.
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02-22-2023, 09:14 PM | #8 |
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I'm trying to complete this on a B48 F31 320i. I'm expecting to see something on the dash (newtis has a video showing it done on a 2 series).
I've done it by the book including a battery charger. ie Ctek MXS5.0 connected under hood. Tried with and without hood open 28C on both controls Fan on lowest bar Ignition on Hazards and low beam on Pressed Park (already in Park) Changed to Sport+ - defaults to Comfort so shouldn't need to Pushed accelerator all the way to floor (past the click which I presume is some kind of WOT or kickdown type switch?) I hear no noises indicating any process is occurring. I started the car once after the 10 second pedal thing and it didn't idle at 1200rpm either. Should it display on the instrument cluster? Did you get this working? |
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02-23-2023, 12:57 AM | #9 |
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Hmm... Well I did try the process again and started the engine. It did sit about 1200rpm (maybe slightly lower). I did the 3000rpm thing 5 times and let it idle. That seems to be somewhat an arbitrary thing to do. I found an old version of the same TIS instruction saying 3k rpm 3 times then wait until 5 minutes in and repeat.
Then right on about 11 minutes idle dropped to the normal 7-800. So I guess it did actually work but it would be good if there was some feedback on the dash. It should be able to do the 3k rpm thing itself too really. |
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03-04-2023, 03:23 PM | #10 | |
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10-01-2023, 09:57 AM | #11 |
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Yes they do. At least my F34 320i B48 engine does (Auxiliary water pump, part #11518637953).
I just did this procedure myself and it worked fine. The electric pump is very quiet and sounds a little like varying tones like what you'd hear during an ear test. Make sure your radio/music is off so you can hear the pump running. The battery needs to be on a full charge, or connected to a wall charger because the process won't start if the battery voltage is too low. Don't open/close windows/doors/etc. Here's what I did. Push the ignition switch without pressing the clutch (accessory mode). Left the headlight switch in "auto" (no hazard lights). Left the driving experience mode in "comfort" (switch is NOT in the ECO PRO switch position). Turn off the auto climate control (important!), and adjust the heating to maximum temperature (28C) and adjust the fan to the lowest level. Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s. The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. The electric coolant pump is enabled. The engine will NOT start. Process lasts for 8-12 minutes and when finished the tones will stop and the car will be VERY quiet. No notices on dash or screen before/during/after. The engine bay can be open/closed (doesn't matter), and the coolant container caps can be open during the procedure to verify fluid circulating or to top up.
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Last edited by Mr.Smartepants; 10-01-2023 at 10:12 AM.. |
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10-01-2023, 12:00 PM | #12 | |
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10-01-2023, 04:58 PM | #13 | |
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Yeah I couldn't get anything to "operate" but I had to start the engine and it did run at 1200rpm as expected. TIS specifies starting the engine too when bleeding the high temperature cooling system (ie not intercooler), it just does provide any real indication it's working.
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10-02-2023, 05:17 AM | #14 |
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Wait, so the process I followed is NOT for the "hot" side but the intercooler only?
I'm so confused.
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10-02-2023, 05:23 AM | #15 | ||
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10-02-2023, 08:53 AM | #16 |
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Makes sense. I'm off to go bleed the hot side now...
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