[andyt26]

To prevent HID’s from flickering will it be required to be coded from “bulb” to “LED” and then turn off the cold and warm monitoring? Or will I need to get cancelors? Or both?

[bheng89]

I bought the Hylux A288 ballasts from TRS.

I do get the bulb out occasionally (maybe like once or twice in a month). I plan to code bulb to LED to see how it might change things this weekend. But apparently the Hylux has the cancelers built in or less likely to give an error with our cars.

[Billfitz]

HIDs generally aren't coded to LED or have warm/cold checks disabled. LEDs need the warm/cold checks coded out even with ballasts. If you don't they'll flash every few minutes when the test voltage is applied, because they react instantaneously. Incandescent bulbs have to heat before they light up, so they don't flash, the test pulse is too short.

[chuckles01]

Originally Posted by andyt26

To prevent HID’s from flickering will it be required to be coded from “bulb” to “LED” and then turn off the cold and warm monitoring? Or will I need to get cancelors? Or both?

I coded out warm and cold checks, but did not change the bulb type to LED. I have a Morimoto HID kit with canbus harness in the fogs, have not had any issues so far.

[Billfitz]

On the 'Is LED', one reason for that is that with incandescent bulbs BMW uses a pulsed wave DC, which is similar to half-wave AC, so the voltage isn't constant. This reduces the current draw, and it doesn't result in the bulbs flickering because the pulses are so short that the filaments don't have time to cool and dim before the next pulse. LEDs, especially those without ballasts, can flicker with pulsed wave DC, so 'Is LED' provides them with pure DC. Current isn't a problem, since LEDs only use about 1/10 the current that incandescent does.