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      03-16-2018, 10:29 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
Thanks and sorry for so many questions...

So what was the reason 23psi got pulled out of the air?
Assuming you go to PTF and say, i have x/y/z mods and they say, here is the OTS tune we have for your mods....and all good? Why would you then be like..."Thanks but give me more psi".
Like im guessing PTF is building these tunes, specific to the mods, for best power while still being reliable....so why push further than what they recommend?
So you have to think about in a business sense. First, as I mentioned in the other thread, no longer do they provide custom tunes. If you want custom, you have to go through a custom tuner through BM3. In my case, I got a custom tune from them and was able to be dialed in higher.

In terms of business, there isn't enough data to say 23PSI is consistently reliable. I mean, my turbo was dying from 23PSI. Even in my case, that doesn't mean 23PSI is unreliable, but my turbo age didn't help. So for them, they don't want to set 23PSI as the standard and have everyone's turbo start to fail. It's safer to dial it back some and if YOU want push numbers, pursue a custom tuner. They provide a directory with custom tuners who you can contact, like I have.

EDIT: Sorry, to answer your 23PSI question, that was what I got set to and @IssaF32 was wanting to get there as well.
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      03-16-2018, 10:34 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
So you have to think about in a business sense. First, as I mentioned in the other thread, no longer do they provide custom tunes. If you want custom, you have to go through a custom tuner through BM3. In my case, I got a custom tune from them and was able to be dialed in higher.

In terms of business, there isn't enough data to say 23PSI is consistently reliable. I mean, my turbo was dying from 23PSI. Even in my case, that doesn't mean 23PSI is unreliable, but my turbo age didn't help. So for them, they don't want to set 23PSI as the standard and have everyone's turbo start to fail. It's safer to dial it back some and if YOU want push numbers, pursue a custom tuner. They provide a directory with custom tuners who you can contact, like I have.

EDIT: Sorry, to answer your 23PSI question, that was what I got set to and @IssaF32 was wanting to get there as well.
ok got it, thanks!

Once warranty is up for me, I just want a tune that is safe and gives more power. I dont run my car at the track etc, just want more fun on the drive to work.
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      03-16-2018, 10:37 AM   #69
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ok got it, thanks!

Once warranty is up for me, I just want a tune that is safe and gives more power. I dont run my car at the track etc, just want more fun on the drive to work.
Why wait for warranty to be up? I'm still under warranty for another 40k miles and here I am! lol
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      03-16-2018, 10:41 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
So you have to think about in a business sense. First, as I mentioned in the other thread, no longer do they provide custom tunes. If you want custom, you have to go through a custom tuner through BM3. In my case, I got a custom tune from them and was able to be dialed in higher.

In terms of business, there isn't enough data to say 23PSI is consistently reliable. I mean, my turbo was dying from 23PSI. Even in my case, that doesn't mean 23PSI is unreliable, but my turbo age didn't help. So for them, they don't want to set 23PSI as the standard and have everyone's turbo start to fail. It's safer to dial it back some and if YOU want push numbers, pursue a custom tuner. They provide a directory with custom tuners who you can contact, like I have.

EDIT: Sorry, to answer your 23PSI question, that was what I got set to and @IssaF32 was wanting to get there as well.
ok got it, thanks!

Once warranty is up for me, I just want a tune that is safe and gives more power. I dont run my car at the track etc, just want more fun on the drive to work.
In case he finds a mustang on the way to work, And yeah PTF would not take me above 20psi even after begging
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      03-16-2018, 10:43 AM   #71
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In case he finds a mustang on the way to work, And yeah PTF would not take me above 20psi even after begging
haha! I live in a southern state with no emission laws. The domestic muscle cars around here are NO JOKE. My turbo4 should say in its lane...tuned or not lol
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      03-16-2018, 10:44 AM   #72
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Why wait for warranty to be up? I'm still under warranty for another 40k miles and here I am! lol
I mean, i didnt wait with my old GTI...
But this timing chain has me scared to do anything right now..
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      03-16-2018, 10:44 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IssaF32 View Post
In case he finds a mustang on the way to work, And yeah PTF would not take me above 20psi even after begging
haha! I live in a southern state with no emission laws. The domestic muscle cars around here are NO JOKE. My turbo4 should say in its lane...tuned or not lol
Nope you'd be surprised bro, Mines turbo 4 also and I destroy most mustangs that come in my path
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      03-16-2018, 11:14 AM   #74
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I mean, i didnt wait with my old GTI...
But this timing chain has me scared to do anything right now..
So, knock on wood here, but I am at 85k and have no issues with the chain. I would like to take off the valve cover here soon and see if I have any wear marks on the chain. If I do, I'm going to replace it. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it too much. As far as I understand, it's a wear issue with time (Mileage in this case). Hasn't anything to do with the power you're pushing through, but simply the mileage and AS/S function. I've hopefully prolonged mine due to the coding out of the AS/S function. That being said, the symptoms for a worn chain is pretty noticeable. Loud whining when you start acceleration. If you keep an eye on it, you'll be fine. I would also find a mod-friendly dealership, because even if it does fail, you could get away with mods, like I'm able to.
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      03-16-2018, 11:16 AM   #75
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
I mean, i didnt wait with my old GTI...
But this timing chain has me scared to do anything right now..
So, knock on wood here, but I am at 85k and have no issues with the chain. I would like to take off the valve cover here soon and see if I have any wear marks on the chain. If I do, I'm going to replace it. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it too much. As far as I understand, it's a wear issue with time (Mileage in this case). Hasn't anything to do with the power you're pushing through, but simply the mileage and AS/S function. I've hopefully prolonged mine due to the coding out of the AS/S function. That being said, the symptoms for a worn chain is pretty noticeable. Loud whining when you start acceleration. If you keep an eye on it, you'll be fine. I would also find a mod-friendly dealership, because even if it does fail, you could get away with mods, like I'm able to.
Same here, I don't use Auto Start stop at all.
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      03-21-2018, 10:28 AM   #76
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New turbo is in and she is alive! Just waiting on the tune now...

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      03-24-2018, 10:40 AM   #77
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great info

Good read.
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      03-25-2018, 04:00 PM   #78
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Good read.
Appreciate it!
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      04-01-2018, 11:48 AM   #79
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fgilty View Post
Good read.
Appreciate it!
dude... update on the new turbo?
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      04-01-2018, 07:39 PM   #80
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dude... update on the new turbo?
Still patiently waiting to be tuned by Halim@HCP. He's busy with PTF/BM3 getting the OTS maps updated and released. I'm hoping after he's done, we can work on the tune. You can definitely feel the strength of the turbo, but on the current tune, it spools to the max about 800RPM later.
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      04-02-2018, 01:44 AM   #81
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aekdbrich View Post
dude... update on the new turbo?
Still patiently waiting to be tuned by Halim@HCP. He's busy with PTF/BM3 getting the OTS maps updated and released. I'm hoping after he's done, we can work on the tune. You can definitely feel the strength of the turbo, but on the current tune, it spools to the max about 800RPM later.
When's the new agg tune available for n20/6 bro I'm tryna flash that mf
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      04-02-2018, 09:11 AM   #82
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Can someone please pass on the part number for the NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs that are a step colder. I want to make sure I am buying the correct ones.
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      04-02-2018, 09:16 AM   #83
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When's the new agg tune available for n20/6 bro I'm tryna flash that mf
Crossing my fingers this week. S55 and N55s appear to be done and at the time of this post (0710PST), OTS maps are unavailable for me. So if I had to take a guess, it'll be very soon.
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      04-02-2018, 09:16 AM   #84
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Can someone please pass on the part number for the NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs that are a step colder. I want to make sure I am buying the correct ones.
Hey brotha, I posted it on your profile. Check the viewer messages.
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      04-03-2018, 10:21 AM   #85
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New to BWM world. Coming from a Chrysler 300c 5.7 Hemi lightly modded.
So far with my 328ix Drive N26 I have:
Sport + Coded (a bunch of other fun stuff not stock)
injen Intake
ECS Air Scoops
H&R Springs
Few other things but mostly for look...nothing really adding big performance improvements. I have planned
ER downpipe
Muffler Delete (this is for now..until Exhaust decision)
Exhaust (not sure on which yet ...really depends on how loud the DP and droning)
BM3.
Looking for insight as to the best order in which to tackle these mods?
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      04-03-2018, 11:12 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sun1914 View Post
New to BWM world. Coming from a Chrysler 300c 5.7 Hemi lightly modded.
So far with my 328ix Drive N26 I have:
Sport + Coded (a bunch of other fun stuff not stock)
injen Intake
ECS Air Scoops
H&R Springs
Few other things but mostly for look...nothing really adding big performance improvements. I have planned
ER downpipe
Muffler Delete (this is for now..until Exhaust decision)
Exhaust (not sure on which yet ...really depends on how loud the DP and droning)
BM3.
Looking for insight as to the best order in which to tackle these mods?
So, in regards to your plan, I would say go with the downpipe and BM3 first. Ideally, you'd also get an FMIC as well, so you could run a Stage 2 map reliably. If you can't seem to find the budget for it, a DP and tune will let you run a Stage 1 (Stage 1 runs on stock, too). As for the exhaust, I wouldn't recommend a DP and a muffler delete. It's loud, but lacks tone and drones like crazy. Catless DP with stock muffler sounds good IMO. Quiet at normal driving pace and loud when you open up. For aftermarket exhaust, I recommend either AWE or Remus. AWE offers a more exotic tone on WOT, while Remus is a bit deeper. AWE also offers a midpipe (Resonated or not), while Remus doesn't. I'm not sure if you could do AWE midpipe with a Remus muffler, but if you want to go that route, a muffler shop will make it happen.

Ideally, the optimal upgrade path is: Catless DP/FMIC/Tune (Plugs. Will talk in a sec) > CP (If you can do this with the tune, I would. While not absolutely required, you run the risk of cracking the stock one, especially on increased boost.) > CAI/Exhaust.

Other goodies to have that will help maintain reliability, as some fail, would be the chargepipe mentioned above. Another is the GFB DV+. The stock diverter valve is prone to tearing, so upgrading it will prevent leaks and also hold more boost while you're at. As for the plugs I mentioned, it's recommended you upgrade to NGK Laser Iridium Plugs. The part# is SILZKBR8E8S. This is to ensure they run colder and don't crack, so you can run higher boost. These are gapped at 0.020" below 23PSI and 0.018" above 23PSI.

Sorry if I seem like I'm all over the place. Let me know if you need clarification on anything.
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      04-03-2018, 12:41 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
So, in regards to your plan, I would say go with the downpipe and BM3 first. Ideally, you'd also get an FMIC as well, so you could run a Stage 2 map reliably. If you can't seem to find the budget for it, a DP and tune will let you run a Stage 1 (Stage 1 runs on stock, too). As for the exhaust, I wouldn't recommend a DP and a muffler delete. It's loud, but lacks tone and drones like crazy. Catless DP with stock muffler sounds good IMO. Quiet at normal driving pace and loud when you open up. For aftermarket exhaust, I recommend either AWE or Remus. AWE offers a more exotic tone on WOT, while Remus is a bit deeper. AWE also offers a midpipe (Resonated or not), while Remus doesn't. I'm not sure if you could do AWE midpipe with a Remus muffler, but if you want to go that route, a muffler shop will make it happen.

Ideally, the optimal upgrade path is: Catless DP/FMIC/Tune (Plugs. Will talk in a sec) > CP (If you can do this with the tune, I would. While not absolutely required, you run the risk of cracking the stock one, especially on increased boost.) > CAI/Exhaust.

Other goodies to have that will help maintain reliability, as some fail, would be the chargepipe mentioned above. Another is the GFB DV+. The stock diverter valve is prone to tearing, so upgrading it will prevent leaks and also hold more boost while you're at. As for the plugs I mentioned, it's recommended you upgrade to NGK Laser Iridium Plugs. The part# is SILZKBR8E8S. This is to ensure they run colder and don't crack, so you can run higher boost. These are gapped at 0.020" below 23PSI and 0.018" above 23PSI.

Sorry if I seem like I'm all over the place. Let me know if you need clarification on anything.
Because of the reviews on the smell of catless chances are I'm a go high flow catted. I can't deal with the stink.
So lets be realistic and say $$ is a factor because in my world it is..LOL
If go DP and BM3 tune are there any other upgrades I need to do as far as plugs etc?
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      04-03-2018, 12:47 PM   #88
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Because of the reviews on the smell of catless chances are I'm a go high flow catted. I can't deal with the stink.
So lets be realistic and say $$ is a factor because in my world it is..LOL
If go DP and BM3 tune are there any other upgrades I need to do as far as plugs etc?
I've been running catless for four months now and get zero smell unless you're standing at the tailpipe. Even when I initially installed it, you only got it if you rolled down the windows and were stopped. The smell goes away and even when present, isn't a nuisance.

And not really. DP/FMIC are recommended for stage 2. Stage 1 doesn't have any requirements. CP/Plugs are recommended due to the increased boost applications, but it's not 100% that they'll fail or give you issues immediately.
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