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      10-18-2017, 06:11 PM   #23
Hanzo Nagamoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devil84 View Post
are hifi subs screwed in?
Good news, from the Ebay search I did, it looks like all of them are screwed to the housing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-13-14-1...YAAOSwON9Zi09L
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      10-19-2017, 01:52 AM   #24
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Enjoy the music man!
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      10-19-2017, 06:42 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by 37psi View Post
Enjoy the music man!

Will definitely do 37psi.
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      11-03-2017, 08:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s11nny View Post
just found this and upgraded my subs , noticed a difference but still not as base'y ill try this i only have 3 varients so will try no 1, currently set to default
I totally agree, when I finally completed installing the subs, there was little to no difference. This was due to the default Audio Var (2). I don't have a clue why, but, Var 1 has waaay more base, straight off the bat. As soon as I coded it, with the NBT rebooted, I instantly noticed there was a tonne more base, and that was with the EQ on default. I actually had to turn the bass EQ down, and the treble up a bit. But, atleast I can add and remove bass frequencies at will, unlike Var 2 (which was my default). Var 1 setting for me is not perfect, but, it's a hell of a lot better than Var 2, according to my ears. I'm not sure why you only have 3 Vars, and not 4, but, I hope your Var 1 setting has more bass like mine does. After you've changed it to Var 1, play with the EQ a bit. Good Luck S11nny
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      12-25-2017, 10:25 AM   #27
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Quick Q, I've just ordered two Focal IFBMW-SUB.V2 from France.
I have the HK system in my F30.
Based on the Bavsound videos, why do they remove the whole unit? Why not just lift the seat, remove the cover, then directly unscrew the OEM speaker cone alone and unclip the electrical plug to remove? This would leave a hole to directly drop in the replacement. Why do you have to go to the extra hassle of unclipping extra things and removing the whole sub unit, plastic enclosure included?
I think I'm missing something here but I can't for the life of me see why you can't simply replace the cone in situ?
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      12-29-2017, 04:27 PM   #28
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Just found their newest video which actually answered that very question :



Turns out you can simply swap out the cones directly without removing the enclosure.

Mine arrived today so i'll be installing them tomorrow:

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      12-30-2017, 02:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaffer View Post
Just found their newest video which actually answered that very question :



Turns out you can simply swap out the cones directly without removing the enclosure.

Mine arrived today so i'll be installing them tomorrow:

Nice quilt.
Can you let us now how these sound and if install is as easy and suggested?
I have the HK system in my F31 and would be interested in an easy base upgrade without subs and lots wiring or coding......
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      12-30-2017, 09:52 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashollie View Post
Nice quilt.
Can you let us now how these sound and if install is as easy and suggested?
I have the HK system in my F31 and would be interested in an easy base upgrade without subs and lots wiring or coding......
Just installed them this morning . A few things worth noting if you want to do this (in addition to that Bavsound video above):
  1. These are better than I expected. The bass is massively improved from stock but nowhere near what a boot mounted sub can do (so if you want serious levels of SPL, go for a boot install). If you want a big improvement on OEM but want to keep things OEM in looks then these drop in replacements are great VFM. Things will only get better as I run them in over the next few weeks
  2. I have heard the Bavsound replacements in a friends F31 (not sure where he got them from as he's in the UK) and these Focal's are already sounding far better imo. Same punch and control but with even more depth/extension. Plus only £275 c.f. the £447 he paid.
  3. If you have the HK 16spkr system you don't need to do any re-coding or wire splicing, these Focals simply drop straight in and the OEM connector fits snugly into the female Focal plug socket.
  4. The front seat bolts were on ridiculously tight. So tight in fact, they defeated my Bosch impact driver (the first things to do so around the house) so you'll have to resort to good old elbow grease to loosen them (the 2 rear bolts were easy to remove).....I had to use a lot of steady force for the initial loosening and you have to be careful here not to round out the torx head (apply firm pressure and you'll be fine). Also worth using a spray of WD40 on those front bolts and waiting a minute or two for it to seep in before giving them a go.
  5. It is EASY to simply remove the cone - unscrew the 4 torx screws, use a flat-head screw driver in the edge to loosen the cone basket a bit, then simply pull it out ready for the new one (I still have no idea why people go to the extra hassle of removing the whole assembly - this way is much easier). Finally, unclip the connector and you're done.
  6. You have to buy V2 of the Focals because the mounting depth needs to be a bit thicker....so you have in the box, the mounting ring + spkr cone + metal grill - these all fit comfortably in place. This also means you need the supplied longer screws (allen key not torx) that come with the sub in order to screw them in due to the thicker depth.
  7. Now check the sub works before continuing (just turn the radio on, you should feel the vibrations in the speaker).
  8. Once all screwed down, you're meant to have finished, but as I wanted the OEM look I wanted the OEM plastic grills on top as well. This can be done as long as you lightly tighten them (finger tight) and watch for the amount of flex in the grill. The seat will also "clamp down" on them so you don't need to worry about them rattling.
  9. When re-mounting the seat, FIRST finger tighten all 4 bolts down so that the seat is aligned, THEN tighten up fully (don't tighten each one from scratch in turn).
  10. Because these are so much better than OEM, they have better frequency characteristics so you'll have to re-visit your Bass and EQ settings again (e.g. you may find you can turn the bass up as the sound is more controlled and less flabby now, or that you need to turn it down as it is more abundant than before). I'm also finding I don't have to listen as loud for it to sound as good, the bass comes through at lower volumes than OEM and doesn't seem to be drowned out as much when on the move.

In total takes about 45min start to finish (most of which was taken up trying to carefully loosen those bloody front bolts on the seats) and well worth the small outlay imho .

BTW, here is the eBay seller (autoradio-center) I got them from, the £275 included delivery (the listing gives a price of £265, but when you pay via paypal it inexplicably goes up to £275 on completion so remember eBay is inaccurate re:exchange rates in the listings - probably to entice you to buy and then hits you with the real price AFTER you have completed the paypal payment ).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Focal-IFB...72.m2749.l2649

Took 7 days to arrive from France with a tracking number and, to be fair, that price is still fantastic for both (every UK shop sells these for £380 per pair ).
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Last edited by Gaffer; 12-30-2017 at 10:28 AM..
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      12-30-2017, 10:58 AM   #31
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Sounds like just what I'm after. I don't want a proper sub in the boot. I've definitely got the HK system didn't know I had 16 speakers though. Thought I had 13. Anyway I'll check and order in a day or so.


Great write up as well, thanks.
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      09-15-2020, 06:39 AM   #32
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Can anyone please explain to me what this means ??

But, by luck, whilst I was experimenting with coding in my car. I came across a code parameter called "AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR", which is located in the HU_NBT/HU_CIC CAFD scetion. When you select the AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR options, you'll see 4 options in total. "var 1" "var 2" "var 3" "var 4" (depending on what head unit version you have). Mine was set on "Var 2", so I tried var 3, and var 4, but, var 1 added more bass my audio after I coded it in. And with a little Eq'ing, the subs now sound GREAT!!

Where do you find this/do this? Presumably not through the i-drive button??
Sorry, I'm used to old cars (E46s) and the technology in my F31 is way-beyond my knowledge. Thanks
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      09-15-2020, 07:45 AM   #33
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Having had speakers [Rainbow] & an amp [Alpine] installed in my car it sounds like I need to find someone who can interrogate my audio settings to make sure I am getting the most out of the system.
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      12-06-2022, 12:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuartanthony View Post
Can anyone please explain to me what this means ??

But, by luck, whilst I was experimenting with coding in my car. I came across a code parameter called "AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR", which is located in the HU_NBT/HU_CIC CAFD scetion. When you select the AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR options, you'll see 4 options in total. "var 1" "var 2" "var 3" "var 4" (depending on what head unit version you have). Mine was set on "Var 2", so I tried var 3, and var 4, but, var 1 added more bass my audio after I coded it in. And with a little Eq'ing, the subs now sound GREAT!!

Where do you find this/do this? Presumably not through the i-drive button??
Sorry, I'm used to old cars (E46s) and the technology in my F31 is way-beyond my knowledge. Thanks
...Sorry for taking 2+ years to reply.... I haven't signed into my account in a long time. For all reading this, if your F30 has the base sound system (no amp, x2 Subs, x4 Mid Range speakers), swiching the Audio Variant ("Var") will make your system sound really strong in the mid and low end in regards to EQ settings. The base system lacks a whole lot of mid and low end. There are 4 variants to choose from.

Initially I found the audio "var" settings using E-sys years ago under HU_NBT I think, but, I'm happy to say that now, you can use Bimmercode to switch your audio Var settings.

1) Fire up Bimmercode.
2) Select "Headunit".
3) Go into "Expert" mode.
4) In the search bar at the top, search for "var" and select "AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR".

After selecting AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR you should see 4 options, Variant1, 2, 3 and 4.
By defualt, my car was on Variant2 (which sounds terrible and flat!). After cycling though all of the other variants, I found Variant1 made my system sound amazing. I suggest trying out the variants and select what you think sounds best. To try out each variant, you'll have to select it, code the headunit, have a listen, then switch to another varient, have a listen, and so forth. In my opinion Variant1 gives the base system solid bass and mids. You can really hear the sub woofers. If you find Variant1 too bassy, then have a play with the pathetic 2 band eq in sound settings of your iDrive when you're done.

To all that have switched variants with the base system, please submit your feedback, and llet us know what variant worked for you.
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      12-07-2022, 05:13 PM   #35
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Thanks for the above.

With regards to the focal subs, will I need to add an external amp if I put these subs in a base system?
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      12-08-2022, 02:20 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanzo Nagamoto View Post
...Sorry for taking 2+ years to reply.... I haven't signed into my account in a long time. For all reading this, if your F30 has the base sound system (no amp, x2 Subs, x4 Mid Range speakers), swiching the Audio Variant ("Var") will make your system sound really strong in the mid and low end in regards to EQ settings. The base system lacks a whole lot of mid and low end. There are 4 variants to choose from.

Initially I found the audio "var" settings using E-sys years ago under HU_NBT I think, but, I'm happy to say that now, you can use Bimmercode to switch your audio Var settings.

1) Fire up Bimmercode.
2) Select "Headunit".
3) Go into "Expert" mode.
4) In the search bar at the top, search for "var" and select "AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR".

After selecting AUDIO_SYSTEM_VAR you should see 4 options, Variant1, 2, 3 and 4.
By defualt, my car was on Variant2 (which sounds terrible and flat!). After cycling though all of the other variants, I found Variant1 made my system sound amazing. I suggest trying out the variants and select what you think sounds best. To try out each variant, you'll have to select it, code the headunit, have a listen, then switch to another varient, have a listen, and so forth. In my opinion Variant1 gives the base system solid bass and mids. You can really hear the sub woofers. If you find Variant1 too bassy, then have a play with the pathetic 2 band eq in sound settings of your iDrive when you're done.

To all that have switched variants with the base system, please submit your feedback, and llet us know what variant worked for you.
Just changed mine, it was set to default. It is now on Variant 1, makes a massive difference to the bass levels. Always grateful for a free upgrade. Thanks
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      12-08-2022, 11:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeg1633 View Post
Just changed mine, it was set to default. It is now on Variant 1, makes a massive difference to the bass levels. Always grateful for a free upgrade. Thanks
Glad you like it man.
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      12-08-2022, 11:44 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yam_440i View Post
Thanks for the above.

With regards to the focal subs, will I need to add an external amp if I put these subs in a base system?
You won't need an external amplifier, but, I can't stress how much of a difference changing the Audio Variant makes (atleast for me). If you install any subs in your base audio system, there'll be no difference in sound quality. The mids and low ends will sound identical to your base sound system. Experiment with the other 3 variants using bimmercode, and select the one that suits you best (for me, it was "variant1").
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