08-31-2018, 05:46 PM | #1 |
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Removing front control arm / tension/thrust arm. (SOLVED)
Has anyone on here removed there front tension control arm? I have an x drive and cannot get the ball joint to clear the knuckle. The axle boot in the way. Dont want to take it apart because the torque on it is insane. You can see below how I have to lift the ball joint out but the axle boot is blocking it. Has anyone done this job before?
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2014 EBII 435ix - Stage 2+ Dragy: 0-60 3.61; 60-130 10.18
2020 MG M340ix - Dragy: 0-60 3.48 2018 LBB X4M40i - Stock Dragy: 0-60 4.85 Last edited by Insane435; 09-24-2018 at 11:35 AM.. |
08-31-2018, 05:52 PM | #2 |
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Why are you doing this? When I drive over potholes I here a lot of shaking and clicking on my front passenger suspension
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08-31-2018, 05:53 PM | #3 |
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09-04-2018, 07:44 AM | #4 |
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Bump.
It can come out by removing the axle bolt to allow the knuckle to push back, but I would rather not go that route. The axle bolt feels like it is torqued down by Hercules. Has anyone done this?
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2014 EBII 435ix - Stage 2+ Dragy: 0-60 3.61; 60-130 10.18
2020 MG M340ix - Dragy: 0-60 3.48 2018 LBB X4M40i - Stock Dragy: 0-60 4.85 |
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09-13-2018, 07:36 PM | #5 |
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What if you remove the strut from the knuckle then hinge the knuckle out.
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09-14-2018, 09:37 AM | #6 |
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doesnt work because the axles is still connected. I bought a new axle bolt so i can replace it when i remove. I think the easiest way to do this is to remove the axle bolt and then undo all of the control arms. I will report back once I get a chance to do this. It should be about a 2 hr job from start to finish.
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2014 EBII 435ix - Stage 2+ Dragy: 0-60 3.61; 60-130 10.18
2020 MG M340ix - Dragy: 0-60 3.48 2018 LBB X4M40i - Stock Dragy: 0-60 4.85 |
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09-14-2018, 12:03 PM | #7 |
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You're supposed to remove the axle from the steering knuckle before removing the tension strut.
Here's the procedure. |
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09-14-2018, 12:12 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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2014 EBII 435ix - Stage 2+ Dragy: 0-60 3.61; 60-130 10.18
2020 MG M340ix - Dragy: 0-60 3.48 2018 LBB X4M40i - Stock Dragy: 0-60 4.85 |
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09-14-2018, 02:03 PM | #9 |
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Based on the procedure it looks pretty easy since it just passes through the knuckle and locks up to the teeth/gear on the back of the wheel hub.
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09-18-2018, 11:46 AM | #10 |
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I had to use a pipe on my breaker bar to loosen my axle bolt but it wasn't that bad.
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09-18-2018, 12:43 PM | #11 |
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05-21-2020, 02:36 PM | #13 |
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Just did this at 60k, but a couple questions. It was a bit tight with cooler lines and some extra hardware blocking the screw to be removed - anybody know what purpose part number 22 serves? It doesn't appear to do much of anything but get in the way...
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05-21-2020, 07:38 PM | #15 |
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Nothing screws into it - it just has a hole at one end for the thrust arm bushing's screw to go through (I took two of them out today, and reinstalled them despite them not having any clear function). I wonder if it's to protect the little radiator hoses from road debris that might make it through the wheel well or undertray? It doesn't seem to serve any other purpose.
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