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      12-19-2018, 03:30 PM   #1
navardi
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Lightbulb Forged BMW N20 Engine - 2014 220i

Hey everyone, figured i might be the first person to log this type of build, i know a few members have stated they have bought the parts for a forged build, and i know some companies have built this engine, but i want to share my experience building this engine myself with some parts of the build carried out by shops.

So below are the specs for my build:
• CP Forged pistons 84.5mm comp 10.1 and Chromoly Pins, also with CP H Beam forged rods with Carr bolts -- cylinders must be notched for these rods or your crank won't rotate.
• Steel sleeved cylinder liners - sleeves must be used rebuilding this engine especially when oversizing the bore.
• Rotating Assembly Balanced
• Semi Closed Deck - so happy the engine builder could do this for me ($386 AUD)
• Crankshaft micropolished and all bearing and part clearances checked by engine builder.
• VAC N55 Performance Rod Bearings comes in a set of 6, so i have 2 sets spare
• N55 ARP head studs set -- please note i used the 10 11mm studs, now since the block originally uses 6 11mm and 4 10mm the block will need to be timeserted (block also supports bigserts as i did have to use one because i got carried away on the drill!) Now make sure you get the N55 arp studs because VAC Motorsports stuffed up my order and sent me N54 studs which are about 40mm to short, hence why i timeserted all the holes, to suit a custom depth in the block, given my location (Australia) and other constraints i didnt have time to return them and get the correct ones. If you do timesert or bigsert you will need the 30mm inserts.
• The head 4 corner headbolt holes will need to be drilled out to accommodate the larger stud's i used a 12mm drill bit, larger alignment dowels will be required as the block holes will be too big for the facrory ones.
• BMW N20 0.7mm headgasket
• For the bedplate i used new factory bolts as the power i am going for isnt overly high so i wasnt worried about the factory ones failing.
• The turbo was a fun build, i had the exhaust housing machined out by an engineering shop to support the TD04HLR 9 blade Turbine Inducer OD: 52 mm
Exducer OD: 45.6 mm
• Turbo Compressor housing machined out to fit the 49.10mm inducer 65mmm exducer billet compressor wheel
• Turbo Core balanced, by my local Turbo specialist shop, but assembled and rebuilt by myself
• new OEM spark Plugs and injectors
• custom Charge Pipes.
•Aeroflow 600x300x100mm intercooler
• custom intake
• MST turbo intake boot
• Aeroflow 25 Row oil cooler with Aeroflow 10AN fittings and braided lines
• PSP N55 oil cooler adaptor plate for the oil filter housing
• Ebay Decat
• custom stainless exhaust with resonator delete
• DV+ GFB diverter valve
• Mambatek TD04LR rebuilt kit with uprated thrust bearing for 31psi
• BM3 Tune
• JB4 for future Meth Injection and current E85 control
• Walbro 460 LPFP
• Block was honed and machined and semi closed deck by my local machine shop, they also checked all clearances and gapped my piston rings, rod bolts also done by the shop rest of assembly was done by me, didnt worry about new crankshaft bearings as the engine has only done 35000kms before i bent a rod as pistons were initially the 11COMP i was running 22psi with e85 when cylinder 1 and 4 rods bent, rod bolts completely fine, timing chain is fine as the engine appears to have the updated chain already

Website NEWTIS has the complete engine manual with all torque specs and procedures-- great for a rebuild.

Ultimately aiming for 400-450whp which should require 24psi from 3500-5500rpm which the turbo will handle, i have requested Halim from HCP for the tune
For anyone thinking about stacking your bm3 with jb4 make sure jb4 FOL setting is at 0 and only increase if afr especially under WOT are too high otherwise you'll destroy your injectors, from my logs it does not appear that port injection is needed unless pushing for 500whp currently i have the JB4 in map 1 mode adding 4 psi to bm3 20psi throughout the rev range, also haven't noticed false knock which i know is common on n55/54 built engines as the knock sensors are too sensitive for forged pistons

So far the rebuild has cost me about $8000 AUS that's doing it myself, i still have more to do like custom radiator and oil cooler install followed by suspension and wheel/break setup. It looks sleeper as currently but eventually this will be finished, for the time being the car is running and as of writing i have done 2400kms on the new gear, factory cooling and breaks are working for now with current setup. unsure how much power this engine will take but i assume anything close to 500whp would be looking at a bigger Turbo. I'm sure i haven't forgotten anything, if i have I'll be sure to update the thread.

Custom sump and pickup is also planned as well, but that wont happen till early - mid next year. We all know n20 does get abit of oil starvation on the track.
Will post photos shortly


Please note:
Bedplate bolts must be replaced as they are torque to yeild, same as factory head studs
Torque converter bolts for AT are also torque to yield and require replacement





Links for build:
Head Gasket (new as of this week! High performance Gasket)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...n20-p4018.aspx
Pistons and rods
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F272874187533
ACL rod Bearings (make sure you get an engine builder to check clearances these engines have tight tolerances)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F202494290853
ARP Headstuds. (n55 ones should not require timesert thread inserts, N54 studs will, please note going ARP headstuds needs to be a full 10 stud conversion to the 11mm stud the 4 corner stud threads will need to be timeserted as they're originally 10MM studs not 11mm, the 4 stud holes in the cylinder head will need to be drilled out to suit) (if you need to timesert the block you'll need the 30mm time sert inserts)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...-bmw-p114.aspx
ARP Mainstuds (requires 24.5mm timesert in block for this stud, follow my instructions for install)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...-bmw-p115.aspx
PSP Oil Cooler Bracket
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233018453965
As for oil cooler hoses and fittings source a universal kit such as mishimoto this is primarily whatever is local and works for you.

Intercooler personally get the CSF one, bolts in easy

Definitely want the hot side and cold side charge pipe from ER

Downpipe source one that suits you, same for exhaust system

MST and FSB make good turbo inlet pipes (factory ones brittle as!)

Mishimoto baffled catch can is a must!

Oil recommend is Penrite 10 tenths 5w40 with Zinc (or similar branded oil with same specs)


• Darton make sleeves but this is something your engine builder/machine shop should source
• Closed Deck is something your engine builder/machine shop can source
Turbo, honestly unless you're up for it, just buy the PS2 turbo otherwise just search ebay for the turbine and compressor wheel
Flywheel, Torque converter bolts, Torsion bolt speak to the dealership or ecs tuning for it bmwfans.info have the part numbers

#PLEASE NOTE: IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE TIMESERTING THE BLOCK GET YOUR MACHINE SHOP TO DO IT FOR YOU, AND FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS REGARDING THE INSTALL FOR THE MAINSTUDS & HEADSTUDS

Further post UPDATE on Page 2.....

Last edited by navardi; 04-25-2019 at 02:55 AM..
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      12-19-2018, 03:50 PM   #2
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Pics? You mic out the clearances for the rod and main bearings? Did you open up your ring gap and piston-wall clearances? I would like to see this semi-closed deck. I have seen companies like CSS press in a full insert for a closed deck, but I am not sure how a semi closed deck would work without posting. You really going with oem plugs and not a step or two colder?

Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 04-04-2019 at 07:50 AM..
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      12-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #3
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This is awesome subbing for future possibilities
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      12-19-2018, 04:13 PM   #4
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So clearances were complete by the engine shop as per the CP piston and rod spec sheet the rings were gapped as per the cp spec for turbo engine, i don't have these specs anymore as engine builder returned the engine and not the piston and rod documentation. OEM plugs for the n20 are already 2 step cold iridium plugs, so no need for anything else, as for semi closed deck dowel pins were inserted into the block using the headgasket as a guide/blueprint.
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      12-19-2018, 04:14 PM   #5
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Attempting to link the photo of the semi closed deck

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nFE...w?usp=drivesdk
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      12-19-2018, 04:34 PM   #6
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More photos
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VR0...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/179u...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/147U...w?usp=drivesdk
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      12-19-2018, 04:42 PM   #7
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Sub'd, cool build

Looks like the stock rod in that pic is bent. What setup were you running to make that happen?
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      12-19-2018, 05:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Sub'd, cool build

Looks like the stock rod in that pic is bent. What setup were you running to make that happen?
About 22psi but boost spiked to 25, as i had the jb4 incorrectly setup with bm3 for stacking, i was on map 6 running +2psi boost but my FF wastegate setting was dialed in for the stock tune not adapted for the bm3 tune thus overboosting, FOL setting in jb4 was 95 so afrs were 10, which ended up ruining my injectors because the
Demand was too high, so word of caution when stacking a piggyback and an ecu tune, let the tune manage boost, and leave piggyback for either additional fueling or meth/e85 control or PI setup

Car was otherwise completely stock, besides an exhaust with factory downpipe and an custom intake i was also running 40% mix of e85. So wouldn't recommend running that combo on a stock setup also checking settings before a pull is wise
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      12-19-2018, 05:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
About 22psi but boost spiked to 25, as i had the jb4 incorrectly setup with bm3 for stacking, i was on map 6 running +2psi boost but my FF wastegate setting was dialed in for the stock tune not adapted for the bm3 tune thus overboosting, FOL setting in jb4 was 95 so afrs were 10, which ended up ruining my injectors because the
Demand was too high, so word of caution when stacking a piggyback and an ecu tune, let the tune manage boost, and leave piggyback for either additional fueling or meth/e85 control or PI setup

Car was otherwise completely stock, besides an exhaust with factory downpipe and an custom intake i was also running 40% mix of e85. So wouldn't recommend running that combo on a stock setup also checking settings before a pull is wise
Yep that'll do it. Sorry to hear that but at least it gave you an excuse to take this build to the next level.

Also: how did the semi-closing of the deck work? Looks like they just put a couple billet rods in the coolant passages. Is that right? I'm sure it works to harden the engine to the power you'll make, but curious how it will effect cooling.
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      12-19-2018, 05:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Yep that'll do it. Sorry to hear that but at least it gave you an excuse to take this build to the next level.

Also: how did the semi-closing of the deck work? Looks like they just put a couple billet rods in the coolant passages. Is that right? I'm sure it works to harden the engine to the power you'll make, but curious how it will effect cooling.
Yea she's built well now! Pretty much they installed the billet rods about 15-20mm down the coolant passage, coolant passage is about 70mm deep, plenty of room for the coolant to flow through, engine coolant temps sit at average of 95C i also removed the plastic shroud that sits in the front bumper and directs air to the radiator to open up the radiator for better cooling as Australia heat is terrible in summer, on a 37C day I've seen the water temp hit 111C on cruising but soon as throttle opens the thermostat drops to 97C so it has nearly no effect on cooling.
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      12-19-2018, 06:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Yea she's built well now! Pretty much they installed the billet rods about 15-20mm down the coolant passage, coolant passage is about 70mm deep, plenty of room for the coolant to flow through, engine coolant temps sit at average of 95C i also removed the plastic shroud that sits in the front bumper and directs air to the radiator to open up the radiator for better cooling as Australia heat is terrible in summer, on a 37C day I've seen the water temp hit 111C on cruising but soon as throttle opens the thermostat drops to 97C so it has nearly no effect on cooling.
Okay gotcha. Wasn't sure how deep the coolant passages were. Cool setup Try to keep this thread updated as much as you can. Videos, impressions and everything would be sweet once she's back together!
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      12-19-2018, 06:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Okay gotcha. Wasn't sure how deep the coolant passages were. Cool setup Try to keep this thread updated as much as you can. Videos, impressions and everything would be sweet once she's back together!
She's back together now actually, I've done 2400KM on the new build, will link some videos soon once i get a chance, and will be doing some dyno runs after Christmas.
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      12-19-2018, 06:42 PM   #13
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Thanks for sharing. Keep the details and pics coming.

Have you been to the strip yet?
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      12-19-2018, 06:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Sub'd

Thanks for sharing. Keep the details and pics coming.

Have you been to the strip yet?
Not yet, but it'll follow shortly after the dyno runs early next year!
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      12-19-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Not yet, but it'll follow shortly after the dyno runs early next year!
Excellent... we are excited for results of both!

Be sure to check out the current N20 / N26 Speed Rankings thread.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1488438
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      12-19-2018, 07:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
She's back together now actually, I've done 2400KM on the new build, will link some videos soon once i get a chance, and will be doing some dyno runs after Christmas.
Oh sweet, can't wait to see some videos and dyno numbers! Thanks for sharing this too, love a good build thread.
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      12-19-2018, 07:45 PM   #17
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Amazing work there! Would be very keen to see this in the flesh when it's all completed.

Keep it up, the fastest N20 in Australia
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      12-19-2018, 07:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSf22 View Post
Amazing work there! Would be very keen to see this in the flesh when it's all completed.

Keep it up, the fastest N20 in Australia
Cheers mate, its been a fun build and I'm keen to see what numbers it'll make at Eastern creek!
Also happy to help the community on any queries regarding modifying this little engine its no n55/54 but it's definitely something unique and fun to build a decent 4 banger bmw
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      12-20-2018, 08:18 PM   #19
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Thanks for sharing! This is the same route I plan on taking, and have already had my custom turbo built.

I also went with the 9 blade TD04HLR turbine (52/45.6mm)and upgraded bearing kit.

For my compressor I selected the 6+6 blade with extended tip: 49.1/65-69mm. Machinist said there was plenty of meat in there, but the biggest possible match for the turbine.

Also have the CP Pistons, rods, Carr bolts.

Very interested in the Head studs? Do you have part numbers you can share? Did you have to open up the head bolt holes?

Did you do any work to the head? Porting or valve job?

I defiantly like the idea of having the stabilizing rods added to reduce the cylinders from moving. It will probably increase the life of the head gasket.

Do you have any more picture of the cylinder and crank case relief areas for the new rods?

Also do you know which cylinder liners your machine shop used?

How long did the build take you? Did you have to get any new tools for the disassembly and reassembly? I hear the injectors and rod bolts require some unique tools.
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      12-30-2018, 06:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubok View Post
Thanks for sharing! This is the same route I plan on taking, and have already had my custom turbo built.

I also went with the 9 blade TD04HLR turbine (52/45.6mm)and upgraded bearing kit.

For my compressor I selected the 6+6 blade with extended tip: 49.1/65-69mm. Machinist said there was plenty of meat in there, but the biggest possible match for the turbine.

Also have the CP Pistons, rods, Carr bolts.

Very interested in the Head studs? Do you have part numbers you can share? Did you have to open up the head bolt holes?

Did you do any work to the head? Porting or valve job?

I defiantly like the idea of having the stabilizing rods added to reduce the cylinders from moving. It will probably increase the life of the head gasket.

Do you have any more picture of the cylinder and crank case relief areas for the new rods?

Also do you know which cylinder liners your machine shop used?

How long did the build take you? Did you have to get any new tools for the disassembly and reassembly? I hear the injectors and rod bolts require some unique tools.
Hey Stubok, Apologies for the late reply;
Head Bolt holes for the 4 Corner factory 10mm holes will need to be drilled out for the larger 11mm studs, a 12mm drill bit will do the job, for memory this was actually still smaller than the CounterBored hole for the alignment dowels in the head, although the alignment dowel holes in the block will be abit larger so i suggest installing larger alignment dowels, however i did not and my head has still aligned perfectly.

The link for the Head Bolts is here; Just select N55 from the drop down, from factory the N20 and N55 share the same headbolts for the 11mm studs, and the fact the N55 comes with more 11mm studs makes it great if you plan to go 10x 11mm Studs, as for Timeserts i don't have a link as i sourced them locally, but the specs you need is M11x1.5 x30mm Length (you should only require 4 inserts, My case was unique as i ended up using the incorrectly shipped N54 Studs so i had to install the threads at a higher depth than the factory thread)

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/arp...-bmw-p114.aspx (Part No. ARP-HSK-N55)

As for the notching the cylinders, its abit hard to see but here is the link to the photo https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mCa...ew?usp=sharing

No head work has been done, Honestly not required since i am not aiming for very high power figures, also you'd need a spare head to work out just how much material you could remove.

For specialised tools, you will need the Cam locking and alignment tool, Guys who have done a timing chain replacement will know what this is, it can be found on ebay, you can also obtain a oil pump chain locking tool to help do the bolt on the oil chain gear up, its on ebay, don't have a link sorry just remember seeing it on there, Although i never used one and the torque spec isn't very high so using the oil chain to do the bolt up is fine. (I'm sure someone will say this is a big no - no)

Specialised Tools also include, Torque wrenches (really good ones, especially for head bolts etc) but you'll need wrenches than can do 5nm - 200nm, to remove the factory headbolts you will need T55 and T60 180mm long Sockets (the Torx Allens that are on a socket) i sourced these from my local supplier, although you can get away with a standard sized T55 and T60 torx socket on a 3/8 Driver and extension bar. Sockets you will commonly use is E8,E7,E10,E11,E12 (Gearbox Bolts) E14(Fly wheel and AC and alternator Bolts) E18/E20 (can't Quite remember the size) for the factory Strut Brace
You'll want Torx Sockets for T27, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55 and T60 you'll also need a 12 sided 1/2inch Socket on a 1/2 Drive for the Rod Bolts
I Suggest you have a stretch Gauge and stretch the bolts to the CP Spec, Alternatively you can Torque to 79NM (i know you US guys use LB-FT but 99% of the engine will be in NM so you may need to convert, conviently my torque wrenches had both LB-Ft and NM readings as the head bolts had LB-FT torque spec, whilst the rod bolts had both NM and LB-FT)

I am not sure the Brand of my Sleeves, I'm pretty confident they're a Dry Sleeve.

Total time: really depends, on what a variety of factors, my engine builder did his work in a week, the same week i had the turbo sorted, it then took me a few months to reassemble as i had to work and didn't have much time to work on the car, but realistically i would say 3 days for reassembly + 1 Day to put back in the car + 1 more day to connect the fiddly bits like the loom and charge pipes etc.

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      12-31-2018, 08:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
So clearances were complete by the engine shop as per the CP piston and rod spec sheet the rings were gapped as per the cp spec for turbo engine, i don't have these specs anymore as engine builder returned the engine and not the piston and rod documentation. OEM plugs for the n20 are already 2 step cold iridium plugs, so no need for anything else, as for semi closed deck dowel pins were inserted into the block using the headgasket as a guide/blueprint.
Ok so I guess you are saying that you originally had an N26 engine and now you are using oem N20 spark plugs which are two steps colder than the N26 plugs?
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      12-31-2018, 09:15 AM   #22
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New Jersey

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
Ok so I guess you are saying that you originally had an N26 engine and now you are using oem N20 spark plugs which are two steps colder than the N26 plugs?
The N20 and N26 use the same plugs. He just stuck with the OEM ones from the sound of it, though I can see how the phrasing he used would be a little confusing
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2013 328i xDrive N20 8AT | Bootmod3 Stage 2 OTS 93oct AGG | Bootmod3 8AT TCU flash | VRSF Street 5" HD Front-Mount Intercooler | VRSF Catless Downpipe | M Performance Exhaust | NGK L/I Spark Plugs | K&N Drop-in | Dinan 20" Wheels Wearing Michelin PS4S's | Dinan Springs and Bumpstops | F80 Style Decklid Spoiler | Debadged | F80 Style Grille | Various Interior Bits |
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big turbo, built engine, forged, max power, n20, rebuild

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