[T-Bone18]

If I am stage I, does it worth it to upgrade the spark plugs when it's time to change them ? 2014 F10 535xi

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

If I am stage I, does it worth it to upgrade the spark plugs when it's time to change them ? 2014 F10 535xi

Colder plugs with a smaller gap are not an "upgrade", especially if stage 1. Replace with new OEM unless you have problems. If you are already running stage 1 on old OEM plugs just fine, then there's certainly no reason to deviate from a set of new OEM and potential introduce problems.

[14F30Daily]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

If I am stage I, does it worth it to upgrade the spark plugs when it's time to change them ? 2014 F10 535xi

I'm stage 1 with OEM plugs and they have been working great, stick with them.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

If I am stage I, does it worth it to upgrade the spark plugs when it's time to change them ? 2014 F10 535xi

It's a fallacy that there is a spark plug "upgrade" for the N55 engine. With a stock tune, or a Stage1 tune (which by definition means everything else is stock) the stock plugs and gap are the perfect setup. Bosch plugs are stock for my N55 so I'd get them from FCP Euro instead of the BMW labeled plugs, just to save money.

You may hear about one step colder (they are considered two steps colder for N54 engine) spark plugs which are NGK 97506. For BootMod3 Stage2, the NGK 97506 spark plugs are recommended, gapped down to 0.022".
THIS IS NOT AN UPGRADE FOR A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNED ENGINE!

The reason for this recommendation is specifically because of very high boost levels of Stage2. When huge volumes of air and fuel are jammed into a cylinder, the spark can have difficulty jumping the stock gap which causes ignition issues. Sometimes this is referred to as "blowout", but it's an inaccurate description because the spark doesn't get across the gap and then blow out. It actually never gets across the gap in the first place. The NGK's with the shorter gap can help this situation with a high boost Stage2 tune.

This is not a condition that stock or Stage1 tunes have. So replacing the stock Bosch plugs with NGK's can actually take your engine's ignition from a perfect balanced situation, and screw it up.

AGAIN, NGK'S ARE NOT AN UPGRADE FOR AN N55 ON A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNE. STICK WITH STOCK BMW OR BOSCH SPARK PLUGS AT STOCK GAP FOR A PERFECT IGNITION SETUP FOR YOUR N55 ENGINE.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by johnung

It's a fallacy that there is a spark plug "upgrade" for the N55 engine. With a stock tune, or a Stage1 tune (which by definition means everything else is stock) the stock plugs and gap are the perfect setup. Bosch plugs are stock for my N55 so I'd get them from FCP Euro instead of the BMW labeled plugs, just to save money.

You may hear about one step colder (they are considered two steps colder for N54 engine) spark plugs which are NGK 97506. For BootMod3 Stage2, the NGK 97506 spark plugs are recommended, gapped down to 0.022".
THIS IS NOT AN UPGRADE FOR A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNED ENGINE!

The reason for this recommendation is specifically because of very high boost levels of Stage2. When huge volumes of air and fuel are jammed into a cylinder, the spark can have difficulty jumping the stock gap which causes ignition issues. Sometimes this is referred to as "blowout", but it's an inaccurate description because the spark doesn't get across the gap and then blow out. It actually never gets across the gap in the first place. The NGK's with the shorter gap can help this situation with a high boost Stage2 tune.

This is not a condition that stock or Stage1 tunes have. So replacing the stock Bosch plugs with NGK's can actually take your engine's ignition from a perfect balanced situation, and screw it up.

AGAIN, NGK'S ARE NOT AN UPGRADE FOR AN N55 ON A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNE. STICK WITH STOCK BMW OR BOSCH SPARK PLUGS AT STOCK GAP FOR A PERFECT IGNITION SETUP FOR YOUR N55 ENGINE.

Hell, it’s not even an upgrade for a “Stage 2” car.

My M2 with FBO, Dinan turbo, Dorch HPFP, and running the BM3 Stg 2+ E30 OTS map with E47 fuel didn’t like spark plug gap at 0.020”. Regapped to 0.026” and the car runs perfect.

I did switch to 97506’s but mostly bc I can return used ones to FCP Euro for a refund, which I’ve already done once.

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hell, it’s not even an upgrade for a “Stage 2” car.

My M2 with FBO, Dinan turbo, Dorch HPFP, and running the BM3 Stg 2+ E30 OTS map with E47 fuel didn’t like spark plug gap at 0.020”. Regapped to 0.026” and the car runs perfect.

I did switch to 97506’s but mostly bc I can return used ones to FCP Euro for a refund, which I’ve already done once.

My car flat out rejected the 97506 plugs. Blew two of them up on a WOT pull... Went back to OEM plugs at stock GAP and zero issues. I think the NGK's are overrated. I'm sure they have their place, but not for my setup.

[zinner]

I will add my two cents worth of XP. I have a FBO N55 with a Pure Stage 2 and XDI-35 pump. The S55 BMW ( in the car the last 20k miles ) plugs with the Stage 2H tune where fine. I recently switched to the Stage 2+ tune and the S55 plugs would not handle, any full throttle would be misfires. I put in the factory gapped 97506 NGK plugs and Stage 2+ performed fine. The S55 plugs looked fine, but they didin't work.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

My car flat out rejected the 97506 plugs. Blew two of them up on a WOT pull... Went back to OEM plugs at stock GAP and zero issues. I think the NGK's are overrated. I'm sure they have their place, but not for my setup.

FYI- for this past year there have been many counterfeit NGK 97506 spark plugs out there. They appear identical to authentic plugs. Guys report that they might work for a few thousand miles and then fail. I heard a few similar stories with Bosch plugs. I would suggest to anyone not to buy spark plugs from eBay or from any individuals. I've gotten them from FCP Euro and from Burger.

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by johnung

FYI- for this past year there have been many counterfeit NGK 97506 spark plugs out there. They appear identical to authentic plugs. Guys report that they might work for a few thousand miles and then fail. I heard a few similar stories with Bosch plugs. I would suggest to anyone not to buy spark plugs from eBay or from any individuals. I've gotten them from FCP Euro and from Burger.

Mine were purchased from FCP Euro.

[T-Bone18]

All right thanks for the precision answer. Another question, not to related with the sparks plug but maybe you guys can answer my questions.

I am currently stock and plan to install Bootmod3 with the preload mapping. I downloaded Bimmer-Link and one of the gauge on the dashboard show the Turbo boost go up to 18psi on full throttle. Is this accurate that a stock Turbo on the N55engine goes up to 18PSI from scratch? Also, what the flash does actually do so some need to bring the sparkplug at a "colder stager" ? Does the flash only increasing the turbo boost ?

Originally Posted by johnung

It's a fallacy that there is a spark plug "upgrade" for the N55 engine. With a stock tune, or a Stage1 tune (which by definition means everything else is stock) the stock plugs and gap are the perfect setup. Bosch plugs are stock for my N55 so I'd get them from FCP Euro instead of the BMW labeled plugs, just to save money.

You may hear about one step colder (they are considered two steps colder for N54 engine) spark plugs which are NGK 97506. For BootMod3 Stage2, the NGK 97506 spark plugs are recommended, gapped down to 0.022".
THIS IS NOT AN UPGRADE FOR A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNED ENGINE!

The reason for this recommendation is specifically because of very high boost levels of Stage2. When huge volumes of air and fuel are jammed into a cylinder, the spark can have difficulty jumping the stock gap which causes ignition issues. Sometimes this is referred to as "blowout", but it's an inaccurate description because the spark doesn't get across the gap and then blow out. It actually never gets across the gap in the first place. The NGK's with the shorter gap can help this situation with a high boost Stage2 tune.

This is not a condition that stock or Stage1 tunes have. So replacing the stock Bosch plugs with NGK's can actually take your engine's ignition from a perfect balanced situation, and screw it up.

AGAIN, NGK'S ARE NOT AN UPGRADE FOR AN N55 ON A STOCK TUNE OR A STAGE1 TUNE. STICK WITH STOCK BMW OR BOSCH SPARK PLUGS AT STOCK GAP FOR A PERFECT IGNITION SETUP FOR YOUR N55 ENGINE.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

All right thanks for the precision answer. Another question, not to related with the sparks plug but maybe you guys can answer my questions.

I am currently stock and plan to install Bootmod3 with the preload mapping. I downloaded Bimmer-Link and one of the gauge on the dashboard show the Turbo boost go up to 18psi on full throttle. Is this accurate that a stock Turbo on the N55engine goes up to 18PSI from scratch? Also, what the flash does actually do so some need to bring the sparkplug at a "colder stager" ? Does the flash only increasing the turbo boost ?

I am assuming you are saying you saw 18 psi after installed BM3, becuase there's no way you saw that on stock tune, which is more like 9-12. Yes, stock turbo can run 18 psi, although its near the upper limit. Also, i hope you installed the required supporting mods to be running BM3, because you dont want to be running 18 psi without IC+CP+DP.

The tune changes more than boost. The main things that directly affect power are going to be the increase in boost and changes in timing, but there's a lot more going on behind the scenes in terms of throttle mapping, fueling, etc, especially when you get into ethanol mix maps.

A colder plug just transfers heat out of the plug more readily. Typically you go to colder plugs at higher boost to prevent overheating the plug and causing knock/detonation or damaging the plugs. However stock plugs have been proven to support FBO and even PS2 cars. There are also some potential drawbacks to colder plugs, especially if you frequently take only short trips and cold starts.

[T-Bone18]

The car is stock. The dashboard on Bimmerlink did confuse me. It said the turbo is spooling 14psi with 0% pedal throttle and 20 PSI at full throttle. Like you said, I think this app is not accurate at all.

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I am assuming you are saying you saw 18 psi after installed BM3, becuase there's no way you saw that on stock tune, which is more like 9-12. Yes, stock turbo can run 18 psi, although its near the upper limit. Also, i hope you installed the required supporting mods to be running BM3, because you dont want to be running 18 psi without IC+CP+DP.

The tune changes more than boost. The main things that directly affect power are going to be the increase in boost and changes in timing, but there's a lot more going on behind the scenes in terms of throttle mapping, fueling, etc, especially when you get into ethanol mix maps.

A colder plug just transfers heat out of the plug more readily. Typically you go to colder plugs at higher boost to prevent overheating the plug and causing knock/detonation or damaging the plugs. However stock plugs have been proven to support FBO and even PS2 cars. There are also some potential drawbacks to colder plugs, especially if you frequently take only short trips and cold starts.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

The car is stock. The dashboard on Bimmerlink did confuse me. It said the turbo is spooling 14psi with 0% pedal throttle and 20 PSI at full throttle. Like you said, I think this app is accurate at all.

Oh, in that case its absolute pressure, not gauge pressure, and you might be looking at the charge pipe pressure sensor and not the manifold one (MAP). You should be able to tell the difference because the MAP is after the TB and therefore registers engine vacuum, so at idle you would be less than atmospheric.

Ambient pressure is ~14.7 psi at sea level. So you would subtract that from your measured pressure (in absolute) to determine how much boost you are running. And you want to look at the manifold pressure sensor.

[T-Bone18]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Oh, in that case its absolute pressure, not gauge pressure, and you might be looking at the charge pipe pressure sensor and not the manifold one (MAP). You should be able to tell the difference because the MAP is after the TB and therefore registers engine vacuum, so at idle you would be less than atmospheric.

Ambient pressure is ~14.7 psi at sea level. So you would subtract that from your measured pressure (in absolute) to determine how much boost you are running. And you want to look at the manifold pressure sensor.

Here is the boost indicator on my cellphone dashboard, you can see it under Boost Pressure. So I taught I could had an electronic gauge sticking on my phone but looks like you can't with this app ?
I will look for manifold pressure sensor.

Another thing is I plan to go Stage 1 than stage 2. The guy in my town who sell is the Bootmod3 and do custom tune was saying you don't really need the intercooler but the DP yes. Reason people go with the intercooler is they usually upgrade the intake filter, they bring a lot of hot air from the engine bay so they get the intercooler. I mean yes the VRSF is better than the stock one but you don't need it. He also said he tuned some cars with the stock CP and going up to 22lbs of boost no problem. For sure I will go with the highflow DP but I am not sold on the intercooler yet, if I ever go Stage 2. Another thing is I wish the IC can be in the front bottom bumper. I love that visible look instead of behind behind the AC rad. I have not seen one yet.

https://ibb.co/wSmjYgN

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by T-Bone18

Here is the boost indicator on my cellphone dashboard, you can see it under Boost Pressure. So I taught I could had an electronic gauge sticking on my phone but looks like you can't with this app ?
I will look for manifold pressure sensor.

Another thing is I plan to go Stage 1 than stage 2. The guy in my town who sell is the Bootmod3 and do custom tune was saying you don't really need the intercooler but the DP yes. Reason people go with the intercooler is they usually upgrade the intake filter, they bring a lot of hot air from the engine bay so they get the intercooler. I mean yes the VRSF is better than the stock one but you don't need it. He also said he tuned some cars with the stock CP and going up to 22lbs of boost no problem. For sure I will go with the highflow DP but I am not sold on the intercooler yet, if I ever go Stage 2. Another thing is I wish the IC can be in the front bottom bumper. I love that visible look instead of behind behind the AC rad. I have not seen one yet.

https://ibb.co/wSmjYgN

Ok well we are getting off topic in this thread, but there's a ton of misleading information here so let me address some.

First, the app just seems to be showing absolute pressure as i mentioned. Yes, you can infer boost from it, as i described.

What that guy told you is basically ass backwards, and his explanation as to why you need the IC (because of intake) also is not true. The vast majority of the heat is geneated from the turbo compressing the air, and the intake air temp at the filter (although not negligible IMO), has a much smaller impact. And the more boost you run, the higher temps you are going to generate, so you need an IC even more on higher stage tunes. You absolutely need an IC. It will benefit even a stock car if you drive hard, and running stage 1 or 2 without one is just a bad idea; your IATs will be absoultely insane even after a single year pull. Bottom line - get an IC even if you are staying stage 1. Oh, and the CP isnt even up for debate, get it with the IC or prepare to be stranded or limp home when your stock one blows.

As far as the DP goes, technically yes there are cars that run stage 2 BM3 (or stage 2+ MHD) maps with OEM DP, but its not recommended. Not only that, but its the single mod that directly offers bolt on performance, even on a stage 1 tune, so its definitely worth it. Having said that, I would do it after the IC+CP and not the other way around. You can certainly run stage 1 without the DP.

Also, 22 psi of boost on stock turbo is not happening, especially not with OEM DP, unless you are talking about a boost spike. Its certainly not being sustained to redline.

Finally, The IC is not behind the AC condenser.... its clearly visible from the lower front grill.

[bariaga1]

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