[SoCalM235iR]

Not sure how you find the smog station guy that lost his sense of smell, at least here in CA all these guys run the car long enough to smell the catless DP if for no other reason than to move the car.

[harshil102]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

Just a quick update. I passed inspection today with a VRSF catless DP and modified stock tune. No spacers, CATSim or anything like that. Just modified stock tune. PM me for details.

Hey I just PM'd you. Trying to pass GA emissions which have the same single test incomplete requirement/exception.

Thanks!

[5w20]

Originally Posted by harshil102

Hey I just PM'd you. Trying to pass GA emissions which have the same single test incomplete requirement/exception.

Thanks!

LMK what you come up with. My inspection is due as well.

[n55david]

Originally Posted by 5w20

LMK what you come up with. My inspection is due as well.

message me

[Chicken_Joe]

The A R E A 7 4 sim only works for PWG cars

[harshil102]

Originally Posted by 5w20

LMK what you come up with. My inspection is due as well.

For your reference and for anyone else that comes through this thread:

Without the modifications using BM3's cat workaround, there are 3 monitors that will never go to ready: catalyst, oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor heater.
Using Jared's instructions does perfect for setting the cat and oxygen heater tests to ready but will leave the oxygen sensor in not ready. As widely discussed that means you will pass emissions in most states.

BUT what happened for me is the stupid EVAP monitor refused to run and go to ready! So instead of one test not ready, I had 2 tests not ready. One of the most frustrating things I have experienced in a long time. To get the EVAP test to run, (supposedly) with the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full, you have to cold start after at least 5-8 hours of the car being off, idle cold for ~3mins, drive a normal cycle to fully warm, then idle with the car in gear (in drive) for 5minutes. Supposedly this sets the monitor to ready. And if that fails, stop and go driving or just idling the car for a while can help also. I did all of these things constantly for a week and a half. Over 250miles and 12 drive cycles. The damned monitor just would not run the test. Before I flashed the modified stock tune (which does not modify anything regarding EVAP) the test was ready. And I had disconnected my battery just a couple weeks before that so it set in 2 weeks of normal driving last time but would not run on demand in a week and half of conditions specifically tailored to getting that test to run.

Anyways I tried everything to get that stupid test to pass up to late night the night before the last day for me to test my emissions. Since the stupid test still didn't run/pass, I accepted defeat and swapped back the stock downpipe and drove around for 30mins to get everything besides EVAP into ready using the completely stock tune.

Next year I'm going to give myself 60 days or more and then just get the test done as soon as EVAP is ready. FYI if you are in Georgia and you know with good certainty you will own the car for at least another year, emissions tests are good for 12 months or 1 renewal. So you could get 1 test done, go renew your tags, and then go get another emissions test done right after before swapping back to whatever tune/hardware you run. Then just sit on that result for a year and use it to renew your registration in the following year. Makes the cycle of messing with tunes/downpipes/whatever every 2 years instead of each year. That's what I would do, but I'm not completely sure if I will still own this same car.

[JaredG_F30]

Getting the EVAP monitor ready is a bitch. I filled my tank just before I flashed the modified stock tune so I had to wait until my tank got below 3/4 full before it kicked on. This was about a week worth of commuting back and forth to work. Fortunately soon after it dropped below 3/4 tank the EVAP monitor turned green. I got my inspection the next day and passed.

Originally Posted by harshil102

For your reference and for anyone else that comes through this thread:

Without the modifications using BM3's cat workaround, there are 3 monitors that will never go to ready: catalyst, oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor heater.
Using Jared's instructions does perfect for setting the cat and oxygen heater tests to ready but will leave the oxygen sensor in not ready. As widely discussed that means you will pass emissions in most states.

BUT what happened for me is the stupid EVAP monitor refused to run and go to ready! So instead of one test not ready, I had 2 tests not ready. One of the most frustrating things I have experienced in a long time. To get the EVAP test to run, (supposedly) with the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full, you have to cold start after at least 5-8 hours of the car being off, idle cold for ~3mins, drive a normal cycle to fully warm, then idle with the car in gear (in drive) for 5minutes. Supposedly this sets the monitor to ready. And if that fails, stop and go driving or just idling the car for a while can help also. I did all of these things constantly for a week and a half. Over 250miles and 12 drive cycles. The damned monitor just would not run the test. Before I flashed the modified stock tune (which does not modify anything regarding EVAP) the test was ready. And I had disconnected my battery just a couple weeks before that so it set in 2 weeks of normal driving last time but would not run on demand in a week and half of conditions specifically tailored to getting that test to run.

Anyways I tried everything to get that stupid test to pass up to late night the night before the last day for me to test my emissions. Since the stupid test still didn't run/pass, I accepted defeat and swapped back the stock downpipe and drove around for 30mins to get everything besides EVAP into ready using the completely stock tune.

Next year I'm going to give myself 60 days or more and then just get the test done as soon as EVAP is ready. FYI if you are in Georgia and you know with good certainty you will own the car for at least another year, emissions tests are good for 12 months or 1 renewal. So you could get 1 test done, go renew your tags, and then go get another emissions test done right after before swapping back to whatever tune/hardware you run. Then just sit on that result for a year and use it to renew your registration in the following year. Makes the cycle of messing with tunes/downpipes/whatever every 2 years instead of each year. That's what I would do, but I'm not completely sure if I will still own this same car.

[5w20]

Originally Posted by harshil102

For your reference and for anyone else that comes through this thread:

Without the modifications using BM3's cat workaround, there are 3 monitors that will never go to ready: catalyst, oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor heater.
Using Jared's instructions does perfect for setting the cat and oxygen heater tests to ready but will leave the oxygen sensor in not ready. As widely discussed that means you will pass emissions in most states.

BUT what happened for me is the stupid EVAP monitor refused to run and go to ready! So instead of one test not ready, I had 2 tests not ready. One of the most frustrating things I have experienced in a long time. To get the EVAP test to run, (supposedly) with the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full, you have to cold start after at least 5-8 hours of the car being off, idle cold for ~3mins, drive a normal cycle to fully warm, then idle with the car in gear (in drive) for 5minutes. Supposedly this sets the monitor to ready. And if that fails, stop and go driving or just idling the car for a while can help also. I did all of these things constantly for a week and a half. Over 250miles and 12 drive cycles. The damned monitor just would not run the test. Before I flashed the modified stock tune (which does not modify anything regarding EVAP) the test was ready. And I had disconnected my battery just a couple weeks before that so it set in 2 weeks of normal driving last time but would not run on demand in a week and half of conditions specifically tailored to getting that test to run.

Anyways I tried everything to get that stupid test to pass up to late night the night before the last day for me to test my emissions. Since the stupid test still didn't run/pass, I accepted defeat and swapped back the stock downpipe and drove around for 30mins to get everything besides EVAP into ready using the completely stock tune.

Next year I'm going to give myself 60 days or more and then just get the test done as soon as EVAP is ready. FYI if you are in Georgia and you know with good certainty you will own the car for at least another year, emissions tests are good for 12 months or 1 renewal. So you could get 1 test done, go renew your tags, and then go get another emissions test done right after before swapping back to whatever tune/hardware you run. Then just sit on that result for a year and use it to renew your registration in the following year. Makes the cycle of messing with tunes/downpipes/whatever every 2 years instead of each year. That's what I would do, but I'm not completely sure if I will still own this same car.

Last year I had two of those three. The O2 sensor heater and the catalyst.

[TonyKanz]

Following closely - hope to uncover a solution for TX based M4's....

[aps]

looks like the decat tables have either been removed or relocated to a new location in the newly released map editor

I've been hunting for them, but can't seem to find it anywhere. If anyone has played around with the new map editor and has found the decat tables, please PM me!

[JaredG_F30]

Dude how do you even get to where you can edit maps now? I checked and I'm still set up as a tuner so should be able to edit maps but the edit button is gone.

Originally Posted by aps

looks like the decat tables have either been removed or relocated to a new location in the newly released map editor

I've been hunting for them, but can't seem to find it anywhere. If anyone has played around with the new map editor and has found the decat tables, please PM me!

[JaredG_F30]

OK I see it now. You have to go into Map Editor on the side menu then select the map to edit

[outofphase]

Originally Posted by JaredG_F30

OK I see it now. You have to go into Map Editor on the side menu then select the map to edit

Any idea how to apply the same changes in your tutorial with the new layout? Is it even an option?

[Polo08816]

Over a year ago, I used bootmod3 to disable the Catalytic Monitors (CEL) on my stock N55 EWG tune because I installed an ER catless downpipe.

Last week I removed the ER catless downpipe and installed my factory catalytic converter in order to pass MD emissions.

I've been trying to change the map config such that:

Catalytic Monitors (CEL) = OEM (instead of OFF)

However, when I try to make that change on the Bootmod3 map config, it gives me an error and says "Failed to update map, try again". When it says, "Failed to update map, try again" does that mean bootmod3/the car did not accept the changes because of an internal error or is it because there is no change to be made because the setting on the current tune matches the settings in the configs (Catalytic Monitors (CEL) = OEM)?

It feels like even if I flash the DME/ECU with the stock tune using bootmod3, the Catalytic Monitors (CEL) are still in the OFF setting instead of OEM.

Any advice?

[thejeremyman9]

If you dont NEED the tune installed (i.e., for HPFP calibration or something), then just completely uninstall BM3 and flash back to stock/relock DME.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Over a year ago, I used bootmod3 to disable the Catalytic Monitors (CEL) on my stock N55 EWG tune because I installed an ER catless downpipe.

Last week I removed the ER catless downpipe and installed my factory catalytic converter in order to pass MD emissions.

I've been trying to change the map config such that:

Catalytic Monitors (CEL) = OEM (instead of OFF)

However, when I try to make that change on the Bootmod3 map config, it gives me an error and says "Failed to update map, try again". When it says, "Failed to update map, try again" does that mean bootmod3/the car did not accept the changes because of an internal error or is it because there is no change to be made because the setting on the current tune matches the settings in the configs (Catalytic Monitors (CEL) = OEM)?

It feels like even if I flash the DME/ECU with the stock tune using bootmod3, the Catalytic Monitors (CEL) are still in the OFF setting instead of OEM.

Any advice?

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If you dont NEED the tune installed (i.e., for HPFP calibration or something), then just completely uninstall BM3 and flash back to stock/relock DME.

I ended up flashing back to stock and relocking the DME. However, I suspect there's an issue with the server side rendering.

I think I ended up getting it to work, but I had to make the "config" changes on a different laptop (not the one I had been using to flash the car).

Check out how the stock tune page was rendered on two different Windows 10 laptops with the latest Chrome browser version.

I even cleared the browser cache and re-logged in to try to keep a consistent baseline as possible.

[SwiftyKid]

Hey! I was wondering if you guys were able to figure anything out. I saw at one point you did but I guess it updated and the tunes changed but there has not been a post recently. Was looking into getting a catless dp so would love to know there is a solution for emissions.
Thanks

[Arielf30]

anybody have anything in regards to the new layout ? really trying to get emissions passed and no longer have my oem dp

[outofphase]

Just passed catless in IL following Jared's tips, the tables that need to be modified are under different names now, PM me if you need help!

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by outofphase

Just passed catless in IL following Jared's tips, the tables that need to be modified are under different names now, PM me if you need help!

Looks like you had one not ready, so that would probably only work in states that allow that.

[harshil102]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Looks like you had one not ready, so that would probably only work in states that allow that.

That's most states and the target audience for this workaround. There's no known way to get all tests to pass. This is as close as I know of and as said should work for most states.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by harshil102

That's most states and the target audience for this workaround. There's no known way to get all tests to pass. This is as close as I know of and as said should work for most states.

That's fine, i was just clarifying for anyone reading who may not know better, as a lots of users are in California or other states that require all to be ready. Also, some people have varied success with O2 sims, angled spacers, and/or minicat spacers for the secondary O2, especially if you already have a catted DP but not one that passes on its own. Of course, those should not be ran long term.