[BOOSTEDMIKE]

I found a ton of great information on this forum to help me resolve my issues, so I just wanted to do my part to share my experience in hopes that it will help someone else with similar problems.

I bought my 2014 335i with 18k miles and went straight to FBO. I went with CTS intercooler, CTS catless DP, CTS intake, Burger chargepipe, and BM3 stage 2 ACN OTS 7.1. Car ran great for a month and then I started to have the infamous stuttering / hesitation from 2-3K RPM in mid and high gears.

I got great support from the PTF guys. They told me to do logs in 3rd gear to send to them. I was able to get the logs done, but afterwards my car started to sputter, hiccup, and jerk in idle and sometimes turn off. Now the stuttering was also at 2k-3k in low gears and my car would turn off at stop lights.

PTF told me to unplug the MAF and clean it. I unplugged it and it allowed me to drive to the shop, but now I was having the stuttering constantly at 2-3k on light acceleration.

PTF gave me the advice to change the plugs and coils, which turned out to be correct. I took it to my trusted indy shop and they confirmed it. My plugs were shot and one of my coils was dead. They replaced these, but I was still getting the Air Mass Too High, Air Mass Too Low errors. Car would run rough in idle and sputter. However, now I could unplug the MAF and the car would run fine.

Got a new MAF...problem persisted.

My shop checked everything and it turns out the stock PLASTIC TURBO INLET PIPE going from from the intake to the turbo had COMPLETELY cracked apart and separated from the turbo. Our best guess was that the misfires from the bad plugs and coils combined with the 3rd gear WOT logs jerked the engine around so much that it broke this part.

I bought a new one and put it on today and my car is back to its Stage 2 glory! With the quarantine and delays in shipping parts, it was over 2 months that my car has been out of commission. I truly appreciate and enjoy the car even more now!

Big shout out to PTF for their support in diagnosing my issues! BM3 is awesome!

I found several threads where people said they needed to pull their MAF to make their rough idle go away and make their car driveable. In my case, the issue was a broken turbo inlet. You guys should definitely check this part. I saw a bunch of threads recently on getting upgraded turbo inlets. This might be the next necessary part like the chargepipe!

[AmuroRay]

Awesome, and thank you for providing a well written follow up, just in case anyone runs into that problem in the future.

[ozymandias435]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I found a ton of great information on this forum to help me resolve my issues, so I just wanted to do my part to share my experience in hopes that it will help someone else with similar problems.

I bought my 2014 335i with 18k miles and went straight to FBO. I went with CTS intercooler, CTS catless DP, CTS intake, Burger chargepipe, and BM3 stage 2 ACN OTS 7.1. Car ran great for a month and then I started to have the infamous stuttering / hesitation from 2-3K RPM in mid and high gears.

I got great support from the PTF guys. They told me to do logs in 3rd gear to send to them. I was able to get the logs done, but afterwards my car started to sputter, hiccup, and jerk in idle and sometimes turn off. Now the stuttering was also at 2k-3k in low gears and my car would turn off at stop lights.

PTF told me to unplug the MAF and clean it. I unplugged it and it allowed me to drive to the shop, but now I was having the stuttering constantly at 2-3k on light acceleration.

PTF gave me the advice to change the plugs and coils, which turned out to be correct. I took it to my trusted indy shop and they confirmed it. My plugs were shot and one of my coils was dead. They replaced these, but I was still getting the Air Mass Too High, Air Mass Too Low errors. Car would run rough in idle and sputter. However, now I could unplug the MAF and the car would run fine.

Got a new MAF...problem persisted.

My shop checked everything and it turns out the stock PLASTIC TURBO INLET PIPE going from from the intake to the turbo had COMPLETELY cracked apart and separated from the turbo. Our best guess was that the misfires from the bad plugs and coils combined with the 3rd gear WOT logs jerked the engine around so much that it broke this part.

I bought a new one and put it on today and my car is back to its Stage 2 glory! With the quarantine and delays in shipping parts, it was over 2 months that my car has been out of commission. I truly appreciate and enjoy the car even more now!

Big shout out to PTF for their support in diagnosing my issues! BM3 is awesome!

I found several threads where people said they needed to pull their MAF to make their rough idle go away and make their car driveable. In my case, the issue was a broken turbo inlet. You guys should definitely check this part. I saw a bunch of threads recently on getting upgraded turbo inlets. This might be the next necessary part like the chargepipe!

Woah! Never seen one break there and with your low mileage as well. When I replaced mine my factory inlet was very loose inside my turbo. Glad you solved your problem and got your car back!

[thejeremyman9]

Nice writeup and good info. ozymandias435 and I have been doing a LOT of research and testing (mostly him doing the physical testing) with different inlets and although most of it has been through PM over the last few weeks, I'll probably add some key points to the inlet thread soon.

So far our testing suggests that MST is the best option. This was directly compared back to back with stock, stock + VRSF (where you cut the stock), and pure v2. The new BMS is coming next week.

[XutvJet]

Seeing how significant the break was, I think the inlet was the true issue. I doesn't make much sense that a MAF, a coil pack, all plugs, and inlet would all go bad at the same time. Those plugs hardly have any mileage on them and you're running an ACN tune which means the power is a bit lower than one running a non ACN tune. The MAF, plugs and coil pack didn't appear to remedy the issues.

What likely happened is the inlet cracked slightly and caused some issues and as time went on, it began to crack more and more thus creating even more issues. Doing logs likely didn't help because the cracked inlet was put under even more stress and is likely when it really broke.

The MAF issues are likely the result of running an open element intake. Intakes can cause flakey MAF readings over time.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Seeing how significant the break was, I think the inlet was the true issue. I doesn't make much sense that a MAF, a coil pack, all plugs, and inlet would all go bad at the same time. Those plugs hardly have any mileage on them and you're running an ACN tune which means the power is a bit lower than one running a non ACN tune. The MAF, plugs and coil pack didn't appear to remedy the issues.

What likely happened is the inlet cracked slightly and caused some issues and as time went on, it began to crack more and more thus creating even more issues. Doing logs likely didn't help because the cracked inlet was put under even more stress and is likely when it really broke.

The MAF issues are likely the result of running an open element intake. Intakes can cause flakey MAF readings over time.

Agree. I would like to see logs before and after the inlet was replaced. I would be surprised if it wasn't apparent from the MAF readings and STFT that there was a vaccuum leak. I think PTF suggested the MAF cleaning because they saw from the logs the MAF readings were not consistent with typical values for a given tune/FBO setup. The air mass codes could have also been a dead giveaway that there was some sort of a vacuumm/boost leak if the MAF itself was still good.

[XutvJet]

Yep. This is a really good on the OPs part.

[BOOSTEDMIKE]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Agree. I would like to see logs before and after the inlet was replaced. I would be surprised if it wasn't apparent from the MAF readings and STFT that there was a vaccuum leak. I think PTF suggested the MAF cleaning because they saw from the logs the MAF readings were not consistent with typical values for a given tune/FBO setup. The air mass codes could have also been a dead giveaway that there was some sort of a vacuumm/boost leak if the MAF itself was still good.

Here were the logs on Stage 2 91 (not ACN). It was AFTER I took these logs that the severe rough idle and shutting off at stop lights started to happen.

PTF said my octane was very very poor and saw some misfiring. When I told them about the rough idle and dying that occurred after the logs, they had me clean and eventually pull the MAF, which allowed me to drive around, but still with severe rough idle. They recommended I change the plugs and they were spot on. When we inspected the plugs and coils at my shop, they were shot. Replacing these made the car run smooth, but only with the MAF out. That's when we found the broken turbo inlet.

Car is a 2014 and, though it is low mileage, I assume the previous owner never changed the plugs/coils. My best guess is the bad plugs and coils made the engine stutter so much that it broke the turbo inlet.

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ea7...729b7fed51e42a

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ea7...729b7fed51e435

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ea7...90c64cd26b8e0b

[harkes]

I have had problems with high WGDC and car under boosting for a long time. Found that my PCV tube and inlet were completely buggered and leaked during boost pressure testing. Replaced and now my WGDC issue seems fixed /

[Tpriest7893]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I found a ton of great information on this forum to help me resolve my issues, so I just wanted to do my part to share my experience in hopes that it will help someone else with similar problems.

I bought my 2014 335i with 18k miles and went straight to FBO. I went with CTS intercooler, CTS catless DP, CTS intake, Burger chargepipe, and BM3 stage 2 ACN OTS 7.1. Car ran great for a month and then I started to have the infamous stuttering / hesitation from 2-3K RPM in mid and high gears.

I got great support from the PTF guys. They told me to do logs in 3rd gear to send to them. I was able to get the logs done, but afterwards my car started to sputter, hiccup, and jerk in idle and sometimes turn off. Now the stuttering was also at 2k-3k in low gears and my car would turn off at stop lights.

PTF told me to unplug the MAF and clean it. I unplugged it and it allowed me to drive to the shop, but now I was having the stuttering constantly at 2-3k on light acceleration.

PTF gave me the advice to change the plugs and coils, which turned out to be correct. I took it to my trusted indy shop and they confirmed it. My plugs were shot and one of my coils was dead. They replaced these, but I was still getting the Air Mass Too High, Air Mass Too Low errors. Car would run rough in idle and sputter. However, now I could unplug the MAF and the car would run fine.

Got a new MAF...problem persisted.

My shop checked everything and it turns out the stock PLASTIC TURBO INLET PIPE going from from the intake to the turbo had COMPLETELY cracked apart and separated from the turbo. Our best guess was that the misfires from the bad plugs and coils combined with the 3rd gear WOT logs jerked the engine around so much that it broke this part.

I bought a new one and put it on today and my car is back to its Stage 2 glory! With the quarantine and delays in shipping parts, it was over 2 months that my car has been out of commission. I truly appreciate and enjoy the car even more now!

Big shout out to PTF for their support in diagnosing my issues! BM3 is awesome!

I found several threads where people said they needed to pull their MAF to make their rough idle go away and make their car driveable. In my case, the issue was a broken turbo inlet. You guys should definitely check this part. I saw a bunch of threads recently on getting upgraded turbo inlets. This might be the next necessary part like the chargepipe!

This happen to m a few months back. The part that connect from inlet too the vacuum like completely separated on mine. What a fun time that was lol

[Dynamic_m235]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I found a ton of great information on this forum to help me resolve my issues, so I just wanted to do my part to share my experience in hopes that it will help someone else with similar problems.

I bought my 2014 335i with 18k miles and went straight to FBO. I went with CTS intercooler, CTS catless DP, CTS intake, Burger chargepipe, and BM3 stage 2 ACN OTS 7.1. Car ran great for a month and then I started to have the infamous stuttering / hesitation from 2-3K RPM in mid and high gears.

I got great support from the PTF guys. They told me to do logs in 3rd gear to send to them. I was able to get the logs done, but afterwards my car started to sputter, hiccup, and jerk in idle and sometimes turn off. Now the stuttering was also at 2k-3k in low gears and my car would turn off at stop lights.

PTF told me to unplug the MAF and clean it. I unplugged it and it allowed me to drive to the shop, but now I was having the stuttering constantly at 2-3k on light acceleration.

PTF gave me the advice to change the plugs and coils, which turned out to be correct. I took it to my trusted indy shop and they confirmed it. My plugs were shot and one of my coils was dead. They replaced these, but I was still getting the Air Mass Too High, Air Mass Too Low errors. Car would run rough in idle and sputter. However, now I could unplug the MAF and the car would run fine.

Got a new MAF...problem persisted.

My shop checked everything and it turns out the stock PLASTIC TURBO INLET PIPE going from from the intake to the turbo had COMPLETELY cracked apart and separated from the turbo. Our best guess was that the misfires from the bad plugs and coils combined with the 3rd gear WOT logs jerked the engine around so much that it broke this part.

I bought a new one and put it on today and my car is back to its Stage 2 glory! With the quarantine and delays in shipping parts, it was over 2 months that my car has been out of commission. I truly appreciate and enjoy the car even more now!

Big shout out to PTF for their support in diagnosing my issues! BM3 is awesome!

I found several threads where people said they needed to pull their MAF to make their rough idle go away and make their car driveable. In my case, the issue was a broken turbo inlet. You guys should definitely check this part. I saw a bunch of threads recently on getting upgraded turbo inlets. This might be the next necessary part like the chargepipe!

Which brand inlet pipe did you go with

[BOOSTEDMIKE]

Was going to get an MST inlet, but it wasn't in stock. Just got an OEM one for now to get back on the road. Waiting for the verdict on the other thread for which one is best!

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

Was going to get an MST inlet, but it wasn't in stock. Just got an OEM one for now to get back on the road. Waiting for the verdict on the other thread for which one is best!

The MST itself wasnt in stock, or the "stock turbo" inlet adapter (metal piece) wasnt in stock? Even with a stock turbo, you will probably wnt the hybrid turbo metal piece, aka v2.

[BOOSTEDMIKE]

Waiting for the V2 to get in stock. They are saying June 22nd

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

Waiting for the V2 to get in stock. They are saying June 22nd

We should have some results on the BMS by then as well.

[randyf32]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I found a ton of great information on this forum to help me resolve my issues, so I just wanted to do my part to share my experience in hopes that it will help someone else with similar problems.

I bought my 2014 335i with 18k miles and went straight to FBO. I went with CTS intercooler, CTS catless DP, CTS intake, Burger chargepipe, and BM3 stage 2 ACN OTS 7.1. Car ran great for a month and then I started to have the infamous stuttering / hesitation from 2-3K RPM in mid and high gears.

I got great support from the PTF guys. They told me to do logs in 3rd gear to send to them. I was able to get the logs done, but afterwards my car started to sputter, hiccup, and jerk in idle and sometimes turn off. Now the stuttering was also at 2k-3k in low gears and my car would turn off at stop lights.

PTF told me to unplug the MAF and clean it. I unplugged it and it allowed me to drive to the shop, but now I was having the stuttering constantly at 2-3k on light acceleration.

PTF gave me the advice to change the plugs and coils, which turned out to be correct. I took it to my trusted indy shop and they confirmed it. My plugs were shot and one of my coils was dead. They replaced these, but I was still getting the Air Mass Too High, Air Mass Too Low errors. Car would run rough in idle and sputter. However, now I could unplug the MAF and the car would run fine.

Got a new MAF...problem persisted.

My shop checked everything and it turns out the stock PLASTIC TURBO INLET PIPE going from from the intake to the turbo had COMPLETELY cracked apart and separated from the turbo. Our best guess was that the misfires from the bad plugs and coils combined with the 3rd gear WOT logs jerked the engine around so much that it broke this part.

I bought a new one and put it on today and my car is back to its Stage 2 glory! With the quarantine and delays in shipping parts, it was over 2 months that my car has been out of commission. I truly appreciate and enjoy the car even more now!

Big shout out to PTF for their support in diagnosing my issues! BM3 is awesome!

I found several threads where people said they needed to pull their MAF to make their rough idle go away and make their car driveable. In my case, the issue was a broken turbo inlet. You guys should definitely check this part. I saw a bunch of threads recently on getting upgraded turbo inlets. This might be the next necessary part like the chargepipe!

Having similar symptoms and my car is literally about the same mileage with the exact same acn ots tune and all cts turbo upgrades. replaced spark plugs and same issues was thinking coils but it may be this.. did you car actually throw a CEL? if it did not was the sputtering only happening to you in park ? or did it happen at idle rpms in drive or reverse as well?

[BOOSTEDMIKE]

Originally Posted by randyf32

Having similar symptoms and my car is literally about the same mileage with the exact same acn ots tune and all cts turbo upgrades. replaced spark plugs and same issues was thinking coils but it may be this.. did you car actually throw a CEL? if it did not was the sputtering only happening to you in park ? or did it happen at idle rpms in drive or reverse as well?

I didn't have any CEL while the coils/plugs were bad and the air inlet was damaged. It was sputtering in park, idle, drive, and reverse. Pulling the MAF let me drive the car without it dying, but it still sputtered on acceleration.

Did you also take a look at your coils? When inspecting my coils, one of them was very obviously bad (looked like a rust mark or short on the side of the coil).

After I changed the coils and plugs, the car ran smooth with the MAF out. When we investigated the air inlet, it had a lot of movement. It should be pretty firm when jiggled.

Hope you can solve your problem.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I didn't have any CEL while the coils/plugs were bad and the air inlet was damaged. It was sputtering in park, idle, drive, and reverse. Pulling the MAF let me drive the car without it dying, but it still sputtered on acceleration.

Did you also take a look at your coils? When inspecting my coils, one of them was very obviously bad (looked like a rust mark or short on the side of the coil).

After I changed the coils and plugs, the car ran smooth with the MAF out. When we investigated the air inlet, it had a lot of movement. It should be pretty firm when jiggled.

Hope you can solve your problem.

I am pretty sure there was a bulletin about the discoloration of the coils being normal. IIRC it was in the FCP euro N55 DIY spark plug change video. But i believe just because the coil is orange-ish or brown-ish color doesn't mean the coil is bad. Not saying yours wasn't, but color alone isnt a way to tell.

[randyf32]

Originally Posted by FAUXSHO

I didn't have any CEL while the coils/plugs were bad and the air inlet was damaged. It was sputtering in park, idle, drive, and reverse. Pulling the MAF let me drive the car without it dying, but it still sputtered on acceleration.

Did you also take a look at your coils? When inspecting my coils, one of them was very obviously bad (looked like a rust mark or short on the side of the coil).

After I changed the coils and plugs, the car ran smooth with the MAF out. When we investigated the air inlet, it had a lot of movement. It should be pretty firm when jiggled.

Hope you can solve your problem.

Noticed the exact same thing cylinder #6 coil has corrosion on it as seen here

View post on imgur.com

.
my car only sputters and hiccups while I'm in Park nothing in the gears but noticeable lack of power.
I read that this is normal and thought nothing of it when I replaced plugs but I think one or more coils are bad even though the rest look fine.. PR Coils coming in tomorrow so will update and check out the inlet.