[Enabled]

You're asking all the right questions.

I think if it's at the skipping stage, the wear is far too great to prevent. If the output flange is loose on inspection or the splines sre sharp like mine, then it should probably be replaced. I would still inspect first.

A good second hand transfer case with the fixes and a rubber giubo is likely what would keep the costs down. Since the fixes the issue virtually disappeared.

[AndrewC1989]

Got new tires recently. Transfer case symptoms feel much worse than they did on my old tires where the fronts has about 2-3 32nds less tread depth than the rears. Like others have said a few posts before this one, my issue doesn’t seem like it’s related to the output flange because 1. I changed the flange and guibo preventatively about a year or two ago, and 2. when I use xDelete all the symptoms go away completely. Considering changing the fluid again and if that doesn’t help I’ll probably just be leaving the car in RWD indefinitely.

[kemwer]

Hey thread,

First off, thanks everybody for sharing experience and knowledge over the years!
I've read through previous 11 pages (and several other threads) and learned A TON in the process.

I'll split my recent experience in three parts, but before that here's a brief history of my relation with current car.

After owning 2006 e90 320d RWD for two years and falling in love with how it felt driving it, decided to upgrade to a newer f-series two and a half years ago.
Initially I was in the market for 3er (f30). Simple upgrade, wanted M sport interior and YOB to be around 2015 (not knowing at the time that it was LCI year).
Offer was limited, mostly with basic equipment, so I expended my search to f32. Since those were stretching my budget at the time (on avg. 50% more expensive compared to f30 in local market), I settled for 2015 f34 (pre-lci) 320d xDrive with just above 106k miles on the clock.
Got interior I wanted (with panorama roof included) in my favorite color combo (black with red details). Served us great for long trips across Europe during all seasons and conditions, as well as daily driver through city. No major issues, just regular maintenance in local dealership. Until two weeks ago...

Tire Change

• Summer set

  In April I wanted to upgrade my stock squared wheel setup (Bridgestone Blizzak LM001 225/55R17 tires on standard 8j et34 5x120 rims) and go with staggered setup, so I optioned for 19" rims (BBS replicas, 8.5j et35 in the front and 9.5j et40 in the back) and ContiSportContact ROF tires (225/45R19 front, 255/40R19 back). Did due diligence and researched (in this forum as well) about the fitment and experiences people had with similar setups. No issues spotted, so I went for it.
  Looked like a dream, worked like a charm!
  Roads here are a mixed bag, so I was concerned I may loos all comfort in driving, but subjective feeling didn't change a lot, comfort was still there.

• Winter set

  Three weeks ago, encouraged by previous change, and in big part blindsided by the looks, I went in search for winter tires. Wanted to have same setup, on same rims. Little did I know...
  Purchased Conti WinterContact TS 860 S XL ROF (225/40R19, 255/35R19), balanced and mounted them, and problems started as soon as I started rolling on them. Transfer Case was not having it! You could feel stutters whenever you tried to accelerate. Initially I thought it was just an issue with tire balance, went to re-do it, but it didn't help. After three days (and some exploring) I drove it back to the garage and switched back to summer tires. Problems with stuttering disappeared immediately. Went back to local dealership for a quick check, no problems found. Hit the highway for additional stress test two days later, all was good.
  Planning to switch winter setup back to squared 225/55R17 (Bridgstone Blizzak LM005 tires) since I still have to old original rims.
  

Output Flange Failure

Very next day on road to work, big "hit" happened underneath the drivers seat. Thought it was a clutch at first. Motor seemed to work fine, was able to move to D/N/R but couldn't connect gears. No leaks. No burned smells.
Transfered the car to auto-transmition expert and upon quick expection, turned out it was OF failure. I'll get my car back in next couple of days (ordered transmition oil and filter replacement as well since I have no info if it was done before) and if mechanic saved the old OF I'll take a picture of it and attach it here. Will check with him if he also replaced Guibo.

Transfer Case Recall

After I get the car back, I'm also thinking of visiting the dealership and asking about this recall and if that's 'a thing' around here.
TC gave no signs of failure previously, but since I just hit 120k miles on it, would hate to have it fail on me (like OF) unexpectedly.
Not sure if partial reparation is possible/recommendable?

To try and tie things up - my understanding now is that vibrations from motor will eventually break the OF (typical wear and tear), but issues with TC (which in this case I provoked with wrong tire replacement) may accelerate the process substantially.

@AndrewC1989 I also figured that xDelete (switching from AWD to RWD), if I had it, would remove the stutter and relieve TC. Checked your build btw, saw you are currently on the same setup I tried with new winter tires, but you're on AllSeasons instead. I can only assume TC is also sensitive to AS XL tires in that setup as it is on M+S XL and it only tolerates summer tires in that size (probably due to weight and thus the radial force variation)...


Lenghty post, I know, but hopefully it'll aid someone and prevent potential OF/TC failures. Or at least from choosing bad tire setup. :D

[Acpreli]

Hi everyone,

A few days ago while going up a hill, under hard acceleretion, for a second I noticed there was a slip coming from under the car. Got home, had a look under and I discovered I have an oil leak at the TC output. Ordered all parts (output flange, new seal, rubber guibo cuz I have the alluminium one, loctite, new oil) and I want to start replacing them just to be sure. Car is a 320xd and has 130k km (about 80k miles).

There’s one question I have. Is there a tutorial/video/picture on how to adjust the flange with the new rubber guibo? From what I’ve read there was a site with a tutorial (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/1Loe7egW) but it looks like it’s closed now.

Can anyoane help me? Much obliged

[pjr918bmw]

First time post.

Hi! :-)

Read all of this thread. Very helpful. I have an F32 2014 which has a major TC issue. I will put pics up when sorted.
I believe my issue is the INPUT from the GEARBOX. It is severely corroded in the TC and has taken the splines out ( I was getting a knock when pulling away), fortunately the gearbox output looks ok.
There is ZERO lubrication there!
I am buying a second hand TC but want to get post LCI as I just dont trust the early ones now due to mileage and this input issue.
I just want to confirm that I can put a 105mm flange (new) into the post LCI box. In other words the shaft dims have not changed just the BCD for the guibo?
Otherwise I will be in a whole heap of pain :-)

[pjr918bmw]

..or as a previous poster asked . And was answered I believe as yes. Can I just fit the "new" TC with a post LCI propshaft (driveshaft in USA I believe)?

[pjr918bmw]

Guess this thread doesn't get much traffic now!

Just to conclude. replaced the transfer case with a post LCI one and also fitted "new" driveshaft as well. Due to difference in TC flange size. All fitted fine.

One caution. If you are reusing bolts.. which of course you won't be.. make sure they are not going to foul the TC casing.

And if its a 435D watch the exhaust - it's damned heavy!

Thanks

[Tfd]

Just did mine the other day. Splines were definitely worn down. Did successfully do the job on my 328d wagon. Remove rear chassis stiffeners, remove exhaust, remove guibo and center support bearing mounting bolts, support case and remove its crossmember, then replace the flange. Loaded it up with the loctite 660 and I immediately feel a difference.
Thanks for sharing your findings and fix!

My 2015 car has roughly 70k miles on it. Someone had previously installed a rubber guibo, but hadn't set the center support bearing depth. I'll check for bmw markings on the flange tomorrow, but I suspect it's the original.

[Fletchy]

Originally Posted by pjr918bmw

Guess this thread doesn't get much traffic now!

Just to conclude. replaced the transfer case with a post LCI one and also fitted "new" driveshaft as well. Due to difference in TC flange size. All fitted fine.

One caution. If you are reusing bolts.. which of course you won't be.. make sure they are not going to foul the TC casing.

And if its a 435D watch the exhaust - it's damned heavy!

Thanks

Was the TC box part number ending in 150? this was something i was curious of doing to mine, however i managed to get my original box refurbished for a reasonable sum.

Car drives much better now but do occasionally get the DSC flashing for no good reason

[gruntled]

Considering buying a 2014 328ix with 124k miles.

Will check guibo when I inspect it. If not rubber I will not buy.

If rubber, I will ask for steep discount to asking price to ensure I can afford to buy a replacement TC and do service (I have shop, tools, and ability).

Question I have is: I see rebuilt ATC35L's out there like this:

https://www.wholesalepartsexpress.co...0-650-740-750/

For $1300-$1700.

Are these for real at these prices?

What other sources of TCs are out there?

Thanks to all who posted on this thread. Excellent stuff.