[NxTH]

Shortly after changing tires (maybe a week) I started getting these clunking sounds from, what sounds like the front left tire area. It only happens on slow speeds when parking, or during a standstill. Here is a video

Any guesses what this could be? In the video it sounds MUCH louder than in person. First I thought it could be the steering rack, but I can't produce any pops when moving the steering wheel fast in small radius.

[NxTH]

Here is a better video. I presume it's the steering rack bushing that can be fixed with the repair kit..

[NxTH]

Steering rack repair kit was installed, but still happening.

[Jimmert]

Could be inner steering tie rods. They can cause a knocking sound. There has been a recall on these.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...66230-9999.pdf

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Jimmert

Could be inner steering tie rods. They can cause a knocking sound. There has been a recall on these.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...66230-9999.pdf

Here is a better video I filmed today.

Appointment is this week.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by Jimmert

Could be inner steering tie rods. They can cause a knocking sound. There has been a recall on these.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...66230-9999.pdf

Could be indeed one of the reasons, OP, how miles does your car have? Any recent encounters with a pothole? Any prior work on any suspension component?

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Could be indeed one of the reasons, OP, how miles does your car have? Any recent encounters with a pothole? Any prior work on any suspension component?

No potholes. 105K miles. Don't think any suspension work yet, rear is due this fall due to clunking in freezing temps.

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by NxTH

No potholes. 105K miles. Don't think any suspension work yet, rear is due this fall due to clunking in freezing temps.

At this mileage level - miles or kilometers - full suspension inspection would prudent.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

At this mileage level - miles or kilometers - full suspension inspection would prudent.

Checked, got no open recalls.

A few folks were saying that most likely my top hat is gone on the left side. If I do shock absorbers, strut mounts and bearings, is the top hat included in those to be changed or is that a separate part?

[cfm56d7b]

It depends. Aparts stores - at least in the US - can package a suspension refresh kit with top hats. This part is usually sold separately.

[Jimmert]

I would still check if you have CTR tie rods. You can’t check them externally for play, but they still make sound.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Jimmert

I would still check if you have CTR tie rods. You can’t check them external for play, but they still make sound.

Would you say it's wise to replace inner tie rods anyway due to miles? (105K) These don't seem that expensive (80€), could just throw new ones for both sides.

I presume you mean these: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...75#32106799960

Can I keep the outer tie rods untouched? I'm a bit perplexed about these.

In the realoem page, it says number 4 is the tie rod. I get that there's two number 4's, left and right. Then under it, it lists the tie rod ends, and states "REQUIRED for repair". Do I need to get a bunch of these parts, or can I just get the 4's and replace just them? To me it looks like number 4 is the entire thing, and numbers 5 and 6 are the same part but separately?

[Jimmert]

Apparently BMW doesn’t sell the inner rods separately (but they can get them aftermarket from Lemförder), but the rod end they do. But with 105K I would replace both anyway, what often also happens is that they get rusted inside and you can’t the inner and outer part separated. I replaced mine at ~75K and solved my front end knock.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by Jimmert

Apparently BMW doesn’t sell the inner rods separately (but they can get them aftermarket from Lemförder), but the rod end they do. But with 105K I would replace both anyway, what often also happens is that they get rusted inside and you can’t the inner and outer part separated. I replaced mine at ~75K and solved my front end knock.

I called the place that did the steering rack repair kit and they said there was nothing wrong with the tie rods. I'm doing top hats and other suspension parts next week, see if that does it.

[Jimmert]

You can’t check them for the outside, mine looked perfectly fine as well, but still were the culprit. If they are made by CTR, I would start with them, before changing other stuff. Just my two cents.

[NxTH]

shock absorbers, strut mounts, top mountings and bump stops renewed, parts both front and back. Noise is gone.

[freakystyly]

Was probably the bad strut mount bearing. If it binds during a turn, the spring "jumps" and makes a popping noise. Seems somewhat common on this chassis.. glad it worked out.

[NxTH]

And the noise was gone for a day and came back.

That had never happened before so I assumed it was fixed. Of course not.

Next I'll throw in a tie rod and see what that does, followed by 20 more parts. No shop has been able to find the source, and if I bring it in for diagnosis, it's going to run about 100 usd an hour in indy's here. Imagining that for 8 hours they then come back with 'couldn't find anything, that's 800'. At first it's more cost efficient these days to just throw in parts, but if it doesn't work out, you're double F'd. The car was already at an inspection place who said it's the brake pads, and a shop who said they couldn't find anything.

I swear this started when my summer tires were put on, which are 19"'s as opposed to the winter 18"'s. Can't see how this would cause anything, but there it is in case it helps.

All the things that have been thrown on the internet currently:

- shock absorbers (done)
- strut mounts (done)
- top mountings and bump stops (done)
- brake pads rubbing on calipers (new pads and discs installed a year ago)
- tie rods
- steering rack is gone (official repair kit was already installed)
- steering rack bolts
- front end crossmember mounting bolts
- sway bar end links
- loose nuts on sway bar
- ball joints
- axle
- control arms (renewed last Fall)

[LA430]

Quick question. Doesn’t make the popping sound only when stopped and your foot on the brake? Or even just low speed? Doesn’t still do it when stopped and foot off the brake?

I have similar issue where it was my brake rotors and some issue with it’s mounting spot to the wheel hub causing a popping sound.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by LA430

Quick question. Doesn’t make the popping sound only when stopped and your foot on the brake? Or even just low speed? Doesn’t still do it when stopped and foot off the brake?

I have similar issue where it was my brake rotors and some issue with it’s mounting spot to the wheel hub causing a popping sound.

I think it does happen when applying a bit of brake like when reversing. It's the worst while going backwards. Come to think of it, the shop that installed the tires took a really long time on the front left. I wonder if this is it. Can you recall what the issue was? I know I'm running incompatible wheels so they need fitment rings. What was the fix to your issue?

Could try swapping the tire to the rear and see if anything changes.

[LA430]

With me it was replacing the brake rotor.
I think some rust, or debris, or just a warped mounting area was what caused it.

[NxTH]

Originally Posted by NxTH

And the noise was gone for a day and came back.

That had never happened before so I assumed it was fixed. Of course not.

Next I'll throw in a tie rod and see what that does, followed by 20 more parts. No shop has been able to find the source, and if I bring it in for diagnosis, it's going to run about 100 usd an hour in indy's here. Imagining that for 8 hours they then come back with 'couldn't find anything, that's 800'. At first it's more cost efficient these days to just throw in parts, but if it doesn't work out, you're double F'd. The car was already at an inspection place who said it's the brake pads, and a shop who said they couldn't find anything.

I swear this started when my summer tires were put on, which are 19"'s as opposed to the winter 18"'s. Can't see how this would cause anything, but there it is in case it helps.

All the things that have been thrown on the internet currently:

- shock absorbers (done)
- strut mounts (done)
- top mountings and bump stops (done)
- brake pads rubbing on calipers (new pads and discs installed a year ago)
- tie rods
- steering rack is gone (official repair kit was already installed)
- steering rack bolts
- front end crossmember mounting bolts
- sway bar end links
- loose nuts on sway bar
- ball joints
- axle
- control arms (renewed last Fall)

Been to several shops and specialists. Shops had microphones and all kinds of advanced tools as well, and nobody ever figured it out. I will have to live with it.

- shock absorbers (done)
- strut mounts (done)
- top mountings and bump stops (done)
- brake pads rubbing on calipers? Checked, OK
- inner + outer tie rods (done)
- steering rack was disconnected and it still makes the sound
- steering rack bolts are OK
- front end crossmember mounting bolts OK
- sway bar end links OK
- loose nuts on sway bar? OK
- ball joints, OK
- motor mounts, OK
- frame all-round OK

It now pops on asphalt when reversing out of a parking spot. The more incline, the more popping. Doesn't pop when turning stationary, or on grass or gravel.

Sucks that a car of this caliber is now riddled with this kind of problem that makes it feel cheap.