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      11-17-2016, 05:38 AM   #45
Polo08816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harkes View Post
Polo08816

Awesome - thanks!

Now that you are at it... Can you help with the 22 11 xxx specs also? Then my guide is complete
Let me know what you're trying to accomplish. ISTA's search feature isn't that robust. It's much easier if I know what you're trying to do that involves that torque spec specifically.
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      11-17-2016, 12:54 PM   #46
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What's the consensus on running colder plugs on a 14' 335i N55 with the following:

- JB4 running Map 2 or 5
- FOB
- e30 blend

Thanks in advance!
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      11-17-2016, 01:38 PM   #47
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I'm running the latest N20 plugs on my FBO 14 335i. Well almost FBO, I'm just missing the FMIC. When you start hitting high boost, the stock plugs tend to misfire so since you have JB4 I'd recommend going to the N20 plugs.
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      11-18-2016, 09:49 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Let me know what you're trying to accomplish. ISTA's search feature isn't that robust. It's much easier if I know what you're trying to do that involves that torque spec specifically.
ahhh ok. it's the specs for the engine mount. use it for changing the Pure Stg2.
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      11-20-2016, 12:02 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harkes View Post
ahhh ok. it's the specs for the engine mount. use it for changing the Pure Stg2.
Hopefully this helps...
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File Type: pdf replace engine mounts N55.pdf (708.3 KB, 1094 views)
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      11-20-2016, 12:43 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32DBP View Post
I'm running the latest N20 plugs on my FBO 14 335i. Well almost FBO, I'm just missing the FMIC. When you start hitting high boost, the stock plugs tend to misfire so since you have JB4 I'd recommend going to the N20 plugs.
Thanks! I'll read up a bit more because I know plugs can make a difference on ours/any boosted car.
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      11-20-2016, 07:42 PM   #51
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I am running +20psi on stock N55 plugs - no issues.

Is it due to boost, combustion temps or octane that different plugs are needed? I know that higher octane combust slower so maybe also more difficult to ignite?
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      12-29-2016, 01:36 AM   #52
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Maybe I missed it - how long did this take you to complete the plug change, and did you happen to have a link to the correct thin wall socket to use? Thanks a lot.

Helpful DIY
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      12-29-2016, 05:05 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CntryClub007 View Post
Maybe I missed it - how long did this take you to complete the plug change, and did you happen to have a link to the correct thin wall socket to use? Thanks a lot.

Helpful DIY

I took about 1 hour and 1/2.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...cket-38-drive/
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      12-29-2016, 08:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CntryClub007 View Post
Maybe I missed it - how long did this take you to complete the plug change, and did you happen to have a link to the correct thin wall socket to use? Thanks a lot.

Helpful DIY

I took about 1 hour and 1/2.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...cket-38-drive/
Thanks a lot,
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      12-30-2016, 01:57 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by _bdiddyb_ View Post
This.
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      05-03-2017, 06:08 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_8381

I believe it's under "vehicle trim" and then "3' F30 335i Reinforcement for body, front". It took me a while to find it.

02 Torx screw with collar ASA M10X20 4 07147270121
Would this fit for the N20 engine as well?
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      06-22-2017, 03:04 PM   #57
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I changed my N55's plugs last night. Thank you to the pioneers who provided DIY info as it was a tremendous help. I ended up using NGK 97506 2-Step Colder Spark Plug, gapped to .020.

Total time to replace all 6 plugs: 1 1/2hrs. Afterwards, I warmed up the car and performed a test drive. It felt like a freight train boosting 16-19lbs. Logs looked great too!
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      09-19-2017, 08:05 AM   #58
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Quick question guys.

My dealer told me my spark plugs are due in 2000 km. I am planning on replacing them my self but need to know if there is something we must do on the ECU to reset the counter ?
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      09-19-2017, 08:53 AM   #59
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Nope
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      10-23-2018, 11:10 AM   #60
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Just an FYI I was able to find the BMW Torx Screw with Collar on amazon, priced well with free shipping if you have amazon prime.
http://a.co/d/6cd1gWr

Also, I got my spark plugs from ebay for way cheap. 6 for $26 shipped. I've received them and they look genuine.
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      10-24-2018, 08:07 AM   #61
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Remove the strut bar??? Why the hell would you do that?!
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      10-25-2018, 12:37 AM   #62
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Hello everyone! I just did my plugs over the weekend. I tightened the last three to spec but felt it wasn't tight enough so I loosened them and re tightened. After doing the plugs I am getting a gas smell through the vents at idle. The front three are torqued to 17ftlbs but it felt like it wasn't tight at all. The car runs fine but just has the smell at idle. Could the smell be from undoing the already tightened plugs and re tightening them? Or from the front three that I felt weren't tight enough?
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      10-26-2018, 11:50 AM   #63
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Whats the PITA factor? I have always worked on 4 bangers Hondas so they were ez-pz ( except my 2017 WRX, that was 11/10 PITA )

Looks simple enough, just taking bunch of stuff out of the way. The strut tho.. why?
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      10-26-2018, 11:56 AM   #64
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Quote:
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Whats the PITA factor? I have always worked on 4 bangers Hondas so they were ez-pz ( except my 2017 WRX, that was 11/10 PITA )

Looks simple enough, just taking bunch of stuff out of the way. The strut tho.. why?
The last couple cylinders are set pretty far back in the engine bay, especially compared to a Honda where things are pretty much all front and center. There's not a lot of room to work back there. I did mine without removing the strutbar, but it did involve a bit of finagling.
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      10-27-2018, 09:09 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT View Post
Hello everyone! I just did my plugs over the weekend. I tightened the last three to spec but felt it wasn't tight enough so I loosened them and re tightened. After doing the plugs I am getting a gas smell through the vents at idle. The front three are torqued to 17ftlbs but it felt like it wasn't tight at all. The car runs fine but just has the smell at idle. Could the smell be from undoing the already tightened plugs and re tightening them? Or from the front three that I felt weren't tight enough?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-plugs/5rctKot


Double check the torque spec for your plugs?
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      10-27-2018, 11:16 AM   #66
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Torque spec for his 335 N55 is 23 nm or 16.96 ftlbs. If all plugs are torqued to spec AND his torque wrench is in cal, appears something else is causing the odor.
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