07-02-2015, 11:34 PM | #1 |
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DIY Paddle Shift F30
Link below is my documented of DIY paddle shifter that I installed on my BMW F30 316i. Other folk has done the installation before, but I have not been able to find a complete detail step and information related to paddle shift.
Hope that this DIY will save time to the folk that want to install since all the information is in one place. Thanks to all the DIYer that do this before me. View http://www.mediafire.com/view/m33a3n...30_Rev._3L.pdf Download http://www.mediafire.com/download/m3...30+Rev.+3L.pdf Last edited by mokorx; 07-03-2015 at 04:29 AM.. |
07-06-2015, 05:06 PM | #2 |
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Wow, you got the paddles on the sport steering wheel? Thought i needed to go M Sport which would mean a new steering wheel and airbag, which would mean the paddle upgrade really wouldn't be worth it IMO. I'd mod the exhaust rather than pour that much cash into a new steering wheel, airbag, and paddles.
Last edited by casualDIYer; 07-06-2015 at 05:47 PM.. |
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07-06-2015, 07:36 PM | #3 |
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On M sport steering wheel you need new rear panel 32307848268 which has area for paddle shifter to be installed (shaded area "3" of the figure below), harness 32307848337, and paddle shifters.
Last edited by mokorx; 07-06-2015 at 07:57 PM.. Reason: Update info. |
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07-07-2015, 03:24 PM | #4 | |
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Anyhow, I have a couple of questions - I'd really appreciate your views: 1) I'm a bit confused on the paddles I need. The ones you used (61319242983) seem to be the same as those on the M-Sport wheel. The other shifters you mention (61317847210) are from the F10 according to RealOEM. Which shifters have the different resistance values? 2) Is the harness (32306854769) needed if the wheel already has buttons for cruise, audio etc? Thanks again! Last edited by pdk42; 07-07-2015 at 03:43 PM.. |
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07-07-2015, 03:30 PM | #5 | |
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07-07-2015, 04:26 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for that. Do you know of any info/links on how to remove the airbag on the M-Sport wheel? All the DIY stuff I've found so far has been about the standard non-M wheel.
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07-07-2015, 05:19 PM | #7 | |
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I was trying this before but would like to know if you can help me with this step. On page 11, you have two connectors on the bottom of the plastic steering wheel cover shroud, I only have one connector. It is a 328i USA version, LHD, which I think is (2) on your picture. How do you disconnect the antenna from the shroud? I tried pulling on the connector but it will not disengage. The plastic part connected to the shroud is kind of snug and doesn't disconnect neither. For the SZL, do you have to access it with the steering wheel and shroud completely removed? I have an M-steering wheel with all the wiring already, but when I was trying to remove the SZL, the plastic retaining clip move up but will be stopped by a plastic piece preventing the retaining clip to be completely flipped up, preventing the SZL harness to be removed. Thanks for the help and really appreciate the post!
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07-07-2015, 05:30 PM | #8 | |
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Please give me some rep points if you found it helpful. See the image here:
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07-07-2015, 05:36 PM | #9 |
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Jondaman - that's awesome - thanks. How do I give rep points?
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07-07-2015, 05:51 PM | #10 |
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Press the appreciate button
Thanks.
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07-07-2015, 09:13 PM | #11 | |
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To remove the SZL connector you need to remove the SZL completely otherwise you will not able to swing the lock completely. Just remove the four bolts and remove the SZL. Make sure that you steering is in 0 deg. position otherwise you will not be able to line up the SZL when you need to put it back. |
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07-07-2015, 09:20 PM | #12 | |
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2. The new harness is needed since the cruise, audio, etc. will not have additional two connectors. These additional connectors are for connecting the left and right paddle shifters. |
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07-08-2015, 12:59 AM | #13 | |
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Thanks for the SZL connector explanation, I figure better ask than to make a mistake. Once again, great write up and appreciate the DIY. Hopefully I can find an airbag soon enough to get my retrofit done. I have an M-steering wheel with paddle shift sitting by my desk for the last two months now. Itching to drive with it when all is done
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07-08-2015, 04:04 AM | #14 |
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Well, I bought the M-Sport steering wheel with the paddles already fitted (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181771021769). I figure that if I sell my wheel I'll probably get a chunk of the money back and I avoid paying for the paddles and the new harness.
I'm going to check at the weekend whether the connector from SZL to FEM is already there in my car - I read in another post (http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=45) that some cars have it already fitted - fingers crossed! I've also put an offer in on a used SAT gear shifter. That would be cool - ze transformation vill be komplete! |
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07-08-2015, 06:50 AM | #15 | |
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07-09-2015, 12:07 PM | #16 | |
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YouTube is the way to go now. If it looks like you're going to end up with a screw driver in the middle of your forehead, you might want to get a bit of help. If it looks like patience and common sense will prevail you should be fine. One of the 'M' examples: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIdT6r2ozKU |
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07-10-2015, 09:48 AM | #17 |
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Well, I swapped my steering wheel for the new one with paddles. It was all very easy thanks to the DIY here. Seems I got lucky since there is already a pin 3 present on the SZL connector (and I'm assuming it goes to the right place at the other end!). Now waiting for the cable I ordered from eBay to arrive so that I can do the coding.
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07-15-2015, 05:10 PM | #18 |
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Got the coding done and it works a dream. Since I'm new to coding I first just did the FDL change for the paddles only, but then since it was all going so well, I decided to go the whole hog and change the FA 205 code to 2TB and code the four ECUs. I had a bit more finger trouble with E-SYS doing that, but I eventually sorted it and it's working fine
So - thanks to all on this thread for helping, and a special mention to mokorx for a brilliant DIY doc which is what convinced me in the first place. PS - I did get lucky with the wire from the SZL to the FEM. So, by buying a spare wheel with paddles, the job was no more than an hour in total. Last edited by pdk42; 07-15-2015 at 05:29 PM.. |
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07-22-2015, 08:32 AM | #20 | |
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Super helpful. I will add a bit of info here to save the next guy some trouble. Use an allen key for this, and make sure it's a medium thickness allen key. You will push into one hole until you feel resistance from metal clips - keep pushing and half the airbag will pop out. If you push and feel the clips and bottom out the allen key without the airbag popping out, chances are the allen key is too small. I wasted about 30 minutes trying to figure this out - it's not that complicated. Push in and it pops out. Once you do one side, do the other side in the same way. It really is about 10 seconds once you figure it out.
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08-04-2015, 02:17 PM | #21 |
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Hello guys, I've recently noticed a strange rattling coming right from the Airbag unit, it feels like as if it's coming right from the BMW Logo at the airbag unit.
So some searching has brought me here on how to remove the Airbag on a M-Sport steering. I tried using an allen key to push in one of the hole, I felt some resistance and as if I'm pushing something like the metal clip, but the airbag didn't pop, instead the horn was activated for several seconds LOL. This happened repeatedly every time I push the allen key inward and I'm not sure what to do now. What am I missing here? |
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08-06-2015, 01:30 AM | #22 | |
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Secondly you may not be going into the correct slot. In between the metal plates, there are two openings on each side of the steering wheel designed for the release of airbags. All you need is push harder if you are in the right slot. There is only one place for the right size of Allen key to go between the metal plates. If you are felling the resistance and the airbag didn't come off and you are sure your allen key went through the opening correctly, you probably just need a longer Allen key to push harder and get it all the way in. Make sure your allen key is thick enough so it can't go anywhere else besides the designed openings, something around 1/4" inch think and about 6" long should do the trick. Remember, these pins have to hold the airbag when it is going off at 200MPH for that split second, there will be some resistance. The side of the airbags have a metal casing, you can't really damage the side of the airbag unless you have the strength of Superman.
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