[johnung]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

What's wrong with you? Got up on the wrong foot?

Here the prove one the brake drying system:

https://www.youtube.com/watch/VUwhCZ2duSk

And to claify on the other myth. There is no way you can prevent the rotor surface to stop rusting. There is not coating which would not be rubbed off with the first time braking. ???

Go back to bed when you had a bad night sleep

There is obviously a language barrier because you don't understand what I wrote, the technical argument, or the parts of a brake rotor. No reason to continue this discussion.

[lebaaron]

Would somebody have the parts number of the front and rear calipers screws , they are 16mm and 18mm I think?
They have to be replaced if you take them out.

thx

[joni_titi]

You should watch this video if you're thinking of getting cross-drilled disk, look like some annoying noise are normal with them.

[Insane435]

Here are the pads I have tried:

OEM M sport: Great initial bite, slight fade on highway stopping at high speeds

OEM M Perf: bad initial bite, fade on track.

OEM M Power (F80/F82 pads): bad initial bite, not impressed at high speeds, need to be warmed up to function well.

Powerstop Track Days: Aggressive initial bite, no fade on track or highway. These threw sparks when stopping that could be seen at night as a driver. The down side is that they wore out the rotors very fast. They also didnt sit well in the rear fixed calipers and you could hear clanks over bumps at lower speeds.

My next pad will be the Ferodo DS2500 as many people say they have good initial bite for daily driving and can be used on track as well if needed.

As for rotors I use the zimmermans as they look identical to the OEM rotors. I also recommend using blank rotors in the rear as I have found that dimpled ones make noise.

[lebaaron]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

You should watch this video if you're thinking of getting cross-drilled disk, look like some annoying noise are normal with them.

thx, I'd stick to plain Zimmerman though

[lebaaron]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Here are the pads I have tried:

OEM M sport: Great initial bite, slight fade on highway stopping at high speeds

OEM M Perf: bad initial bite, fade on track.

OEM M Power (F80/F82 pads): bad initial bite, not impressed at high speeds, need to be warmed up to function well.

Powerstop Track Days: Aggressive initial bite, no fade on track or highway. These threw sparks when stopping that could be seen at night as a driver. The down side is that they wore out the rotors very fast. They also didnt sit well in the rear fixed calipers and you could hear clanks over bumps at lower speeds.

My next pad will be the Ferodo DS2500 as many people say they have good initial bite for daily driving and can be used on track as well if needed.

As for rotors I use the zimmermans as they look identical to the OEM rotors. I also recommend using blank rotors in the rear as I have found that dimpled ones make noise.

interesting feedback thx

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Insane435

My next pad will be the Ferodo DS2500 as many people say they have good initial bite for daily driving and can be used on track as well if needed.

These dust like a MFer. More than any of the BMW OE pads.

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by lebaaron

Would somebody have the parts number of the front and rear calipers screws , they are 16mm and 18mm I think?
They have to be replaced if you take them out.

thx

It's 34106864424 M12X1,5X43 for the front and

34206850536 M12X1,5X32 for the rear

[lebaaron]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

It's 34106864424 M12X1,5X43 for the front and

34206850536 M12X1,5X32 for the rear

Thanks

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

These dust like a MFer. More than any of the BMW OE pads.

I'm fine with dust as long as they perform.

[redbullfan]

Im running Zimmerman Rotors with M-sport pads

front pads: 34116865460

Rear Pads: 34216850570

[therealm3]

Originally Posted by johnung

If you have grey brakes, you have front 340mm and rear 330mm. Akebono pads are no better than average and they are ceramic so they literally don't work when they are cold. Get in the car to go to work and no brakes!

Best street pads by far are Hawk 5.0. Best bite and instant warm up. See photo for part numbers. (330mm rear pad number in small print)

Do the Hawk 5.0 pads have the weighted tabs on the top of the pad like the oe ones do?

Thanks!

[GreenF30N26]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

It's 34106864424 M12X1,5X43 for the front and

34206850536 M12X1,5X32 for the rear

Is everyone replacing these bolts each time you replace your pads? Seems from most of the videos online people are reusing them. Thought?

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by GreenF30N26

Is everyone replacing these bolts each time you replace your pads? Seems from most of the videos online people are reusing them. Thought?

You only need to replace them when you open them and this is only necessary when you repalce the rotors

[joni_titi]

Originally Posted by johnung

If you have grey brakes, you have front 340mm and rear 330mm. Akebono pads are no better than average and they are ceramic so they literally don't work when they are cold. Get in the car to go to work and no brakes!

Best street pads by far are Hawk 5.0. Best bite and instant warm up. See photo for part numbers. (330mm rear pad number in small print)

Is there story of people using those pad and having braking noise issue ? I'm looking for great street pad/occasional track day pad that dont produce annoying noise.

Thanks

[joni_titi]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

You only need to replace them when you open them and this is only necessary when you repalce the rotors

Are these made of aluminium ? If not I would'nt botter replacing them, waste of money.

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

Are these made of aluminium ? If not I would'nt botter replacing them, waste of money.

No they are not made of aluminium. But the new ones are coated in some kind of Loctite.
But you are right since they only holt the break caliper which is not a security releavan part of the car, you can save yourself these few dollars

[lebaaron]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

No they are not made of aluminium. But the new ones are coated in some kind of Loctite.
But you are right since they only holt the break caliper which is not a security releavan part of the car, you can save yourself these few dollars

better be safe than sorry and spend that extra cash definitely

[joni_titi]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

No they are not made of aluminium. But the new ones are coated in some kind of Loctite.
But you are right since they only holt the break caliper which is not a security releavan part of the car, you can save yourself these few dollars

Yeah you must be right, following your logic I guest you replace your wheel bolt every time you change your wheel? they are the only link between your car and the road they are super critical item . Do you replace your wiper blade every time you use them, after all they are the only part that allow you to see something in the rain, pretty critical.

Do you really think that replacing a bolt that is totally fine will gave your more security/reliability ? In the real world mecanic in automobile or industrial world reuse fastener all the time if they dont show sign of fatigue, rust or degradation.

Originally Posted by lebaaron

better be safe than sorry and spend that extra cash definitely

Fastener (most of them) are made to be reuse, they dont loose their strenght just by torquing them 2-3 time.

It's your money but their no gain by replacing fastener that dont need to be replace. Why fix something that isn't broken.

If you want you can send me the cash you would have spent on new bolt with a picture of your existing bolt and I will cetified them

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

Yeah you must be right, following your logic I guest you replace your wheel bolt every time you change your wheel? they are the only link between your car and the road they are super critical item . Do you replace your wiper blade every time you use them, after all they are the only part that allow you to see something in the rain, pretty critical.

Do you really think that replacing a bolt that is totally fine will gave your more security/reliability ? In the real world mecanic in automobile or industrial world reuse fastener all the time if they dont show sign of fatigue, rust or degradation.

Fastener (most of them) are made to be reuse, they dont loose their strenght just by torquing them 2-3 time.

It's your money but their no gain by replacing fastener that dont need to be replace. Why fix something that isn't broken.

If you want you can send me the cash you would have spent on new bolt with a picture of your existing bolt and I will cetified them

The wheel bolts are no "torque to yield bolds" , the caliper bolts are. Neiter does it say in any repair manual to replace the wiper blades after use.

I definetly feel better to tell someone who asks, how to do it the right way ranther than let him drive with 4 wheel bolts just because I am of the opinion this is good enough.
When OP decides for himself to do it differently then it's up to him

[lebaaron]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

Yeah you must be right, following your logic I guest you replace your wheel bolt every time you change your wheel? they are the only link between your car and the road they are super critical item . Do you replace your wiper blade every time you use them, after all they are the only part that allow you to see something in the rain, pretty critical.

Do you really think that replacing a bolt that is totally fine will gave your more security/reliability ? In the real world mecanic in automobile or industrial world reuse fastener all the time if they dont show sign of fatigue, rust or degradation.




Fastener (most of them) are made to be reuse, they dont loose their strenght just by torquing them 2-3 time.

It's your money but their no gain by replacing fastener that dont need to be replace. Why fix something that isn't broken.

If you want you can send me the cash you would have spent on new bolt with a picture of your existing bolt and I will cetified them

I get Wat your saying and everybody is free to do whatever they want... that's the beauty of it....do you re-use gaskets as well?... I'm curious

[joni_titi]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

The wheel bolts are no "bolt to yield bolds" , the caliper bolts are. Neiter does it say in any repair manual to replace the wiper blades after use.

I definetly feel better to tell someone who asks, how to do it the right way ranther than let him drive with 4 wheel bolts just because I am of the opinion this is good enough.
When OP decides for himself to do it differently then it's up to him

Just watch on ISTA+ and your right BMW says to replace the bolt. If you look a different torque spec chart on ISTA you can see that BMW says to replace most of the bolt that are related to suspension and brake. This way they protect themselve from any possible lawsuit.

Anyway, you win. I guess the ''right way'' is to replace those bolt if remove them, those and any bolt related to suspension.

Originally Posted by lebaaron

I get Wat your saying and everybody is free to do whatever they want... that's the beauty of it....do you re-use gaskets as well?... I'm curious

Yes but only after washing them at delicate cycle .