[F30328iN202013]

After doing a bit of research, mainly through the posts below I decided to take on the Stage 2 LPFP DIY.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1428292
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1132785

Disclaimer, I like DIYs (breaking/putting things back together, etc.), just documenting my journey in case any of you want to take a similar path (not saying in any way my approach is best). Note for the time investment and messy nature of the DIY it may just be best to purchase from Fuel-It, etc.

After taking apart the N2X/N5X fuel pump (Build 2014/06) I found the upgrade to be significantly easier than the pumps involved in the above posts.

Parts:
Used LPFP from eBay (Optional): ~$60
Walbro 450 Fuel pump $88
Walbro 450 fuel pump filter: ~$11
Gasoline/chemical resistant epoxy: $6
1ft 9mm PFTE fuel line: $8
Clamps x2: $5
Zip ties x2: $1
Total: $179 (Can sell old LPFP for ~45-$60 so net: ~$120-$135 or so)
About 2 hours labour

Steps/Notes:
1. Pop the connectors off the lid side. I used needle nose pliers to 'poke' the hole to enable removal of the connectors.

2. Pop the connectors off the pump side
3. Remove 'lid' portion of the pump by removing the small ring/clip holding the leg with the long coil spring. Try not to lose the ring/clip.

4. Remove the float. It is held in by two clips, just pull them away from the float which sits in a channel.


5. Refer back to pic in step 3. There are 4 clips that hold the top part (lid) to the bucket. Pop those off
6. With a screw driver gently pry the lid off. You will be maneuvering an O-ring out of its seating, so be gentle. It will come out. See pic below for the O-Ring.

7. When you have the lid off and the pump with it, you will need to remove the old pump. Turn the lid upside-down and you will see a metal ring. Use a screwdriver and tap it towards the top of the pump. It will loosen and the old pump will slide out down out of the shroud pictured above in step 6. Cut/disconnect old fuel line.
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This is where you can do things differently. The diameter of the new pump is larger than that of the old one. So it doesn't fit directly back into the shroud.
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8. I shaved off the raised sections (3x) of the shroud with a Dremel tool/sanding attachment

9. I cut a slit in the shroud to accommodate the larger diameter fuel pump
10. Inserted the new pump and used 2x zip ties to close the shroud around the pump.

11. Hammered the metal ring from step 7 back in. Used Epoxy to glue the ring down (for insurance) - it's more snug as the diameter of the new pump is larger.
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I am at this step in my install as I'm waiting for the new filter to arrive. Also ordered the wrong size fuel line (8mm), so waiting for the 9mm to come in. But here are the rest of the steps to complete the install, basically reversing the disassembly.
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12. Install new filter.
13. Reattach lid with new pump to bucket.
14. Reinstall float.
15. Reinstall spring/lid assembly.
16. Remove old fuel line and replace with the new one.
17. Make the electrical connections from new pump to existing wiring. Making sure to connect at different sections to avoid arc/shorting if anything were to happen to the connections.
18. Reassemble. Install.

[Domotron]

good info ! thanks for the DIY

[hardparker]

Which fuel filter sock part number did you use?

Does anyone know of any reason not to run the high pressure version of the 450, the F90000274, rather than F90000267? I'm wondering if it would be an issue in any way.

I'll be running the Fuel-It PI setup later, and this would seemingly allow increased rail pressure, if needed, on the PI injector rail.

[F30328iN202013]

Originally Posted by hardparker

Which fuel filter sock part number did you use?

Does anyone know of any reason not to run the high pressure version of the 450, the F90000274, rather than F90000267? I'm wondering if it would be an issue in any way.

I'll be running the Fuel-It PI setup later, and this would seemingly allow increased rail pressure, if needed, on the PI injector rail.

I bought the Walbro branded filter:
Manufacturer Part Number: 125-190

I don't see any reason not to run the 274, I purchased the 267 because I don't have a huge turbo and for my application I feel the 267 is more than adequate.

[hardparker]

I ended up doing my install recently and posted up about it here: http://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1456228

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Nice write up!

Mike

[BMW63]

hi guys I have 2 pics from my LPFP upgrade, so whilst slapping it all back together I found this little spring and what seems like a stopper, I cant seem to figure out where it goes haha, ,my bad, could someone give assistance???

[BMW63]

Originally Posted by BMW63

hi guys I have 2 pics from my LPFP upgrade, so whilst slapping it all back together I found this little spring and what seems like a stopper, I cant seem to figure out where it goes haha, ,my bad, could someone give assistance???

Figured out where the non return parts come from, the stock pump outlet broke off and the parts fell into the bucket, hence why i didnt see them whilst stripping, problem solved haha

[Tommix]

First of all, you need a special tool to open that cover of LPFP. Here is pics:





And when you tighten the cover back, be sure that you here 2 times klik, and look closely that the cover is really in a right position. Its very tight...

I think that you can found this tool from ebay also.

[bandook]

You really don't need the tool to get the ring off. Flat head screwdriver and hammer work just fine. I just swapped my pump with the 450 and one thing I wanted to mention was that I was able to get it to fit in the stock canister without splitting it. Just used a Dremel flap wheel and sanded it a little thinner. Doesn't need much and it's a nice tight fit if you don't take too much off. I didn't use any clamps or the metal ring because I don't see it going anywhere.