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      07-24-2018, 05:57 PM   #23
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This is awesome! Thank you for sharing!
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      07-24-2018, 06:02 PM   #24
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Nice work Solidjake
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      07-24-2018, 11:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Hawk HP+ works great for me. Especially with 4pot fronts it's so easy to swap, i'd highly recommend them or DTC60s. They are a little squeaky and noisy when putting around town so you can just swap back to stock for the drive home.

DTC-60s are known to eat at rotors but i know people with aftermarket rotors that haven't had any issues. They might chew through the stock ones. But if you do go aftermarket, just don't buy drilled. Get blanks or slotted.
Awesome thanks man. I'll check em out. Hopefully the stock Zimmerman rotors can handle them. Any issue running the HP+ in the front 4pots only and the HPS 5.0 in the rear single piston stock caliper?

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This is awesome! Thank you for sharing!
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Nice work Solidjake
Thanks guys!
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      07-25-2018, 07:09 PM   #26
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Nice write-up and cool pics of the Bimmeworld car.

I did brake ducting on my E92 335i after I went to R-comp tires. Those tires significantly increased the braking force and caused more heat generation, beyond what an upgraded pad/fluid setup could handle. I had no fade problems after I did the ducting. Here are pics:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...2#post13142822
I used CF backing plates from Bimmerworld, they were very expensive but routed the airflow properly. I eventually had Hawk DTC-70 pads which were unusable on the street, I swapped them out at the track. There is no pad that works equally well on the street and track, just get a dedicated track set.

Best of luck with your setup. I think it'll work fine.

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      07-25-2018, 08:57 PM   #27
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HP+ are a great entry level track pad.
Cold bite is insanely good, so great for AutoX and DE 1/2 events.

But if you start to push your car on a road course, HP+ can fade pretty fast, and its scary as hell when they do. So I would not recommend them for more advance runs. I was lucky that the turn my HP+ faded had an escape route, if it failed a turn sooner or later, I would of ended up with a wall to clean up. (This was in a much lighter E30, I could only imagine what a F30 would do on a brake intensive course)
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      07-25-2018, 09:59 PM   #28
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CJ421 Awesome man, thanks. No issues with the wheels rubbing where the hose meets the front duct?
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      07-25-2018, 10:11 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
CJ421 Awesome man, thanks. No issues with the wheels rubbing where the hose meets the front duct?
The ducts did rub when I went close to full lock. Eventually I replaced the hoses when they wore through.

You're on a slippery slope, you know. While a functional mod, you're aware brake ducts reduce the streetability of the car. Next it's a harness, then a lightweight battery, then a half cage, then seats ...sooner or later you end up with something you feel is wasted anywhere but the track and become reluctant to drive it. Not sure how I'd know that.

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      07-26-2018, 02:07 AM   #30
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Omg that interior
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      07-26-2018, 07:25 AM   #31
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Awesome thanks man. I'll check em out. Hopefully the stock Zimmerman rotors can handle them. Any issue running the HP+ in the front 4pots only and the HPS 5.0 in the rear single piston stock caliper?
I know people on here have a fetish with brembo rear brakes but I have had no issue with mediocre rear setups. It isn't until you add some functional downforce in the rear that the rear brakes really start working. So IMO that is perfectly fine as a setup. But like everything you have to trial it and see what works for you.

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Originally Posted by Tchao View Post
HP+ are a great entry level track pad.
Cold bite is insanely good, so great for AutoX and DE 1/2 events.

But if you start to push your car on a road course, HP+ can fade pretty fast, and its scary as hell when they do. So I would not recommend them for more advance runs. I was lucky that the turn my HP+ faded had an escape route, if it failed a turn sooner or later, I would of ended up with a wall to clean up. (This was in a much lighter E30, I could only imagine what a F30 would do on a brake intensive course)
Like I said, I've had great luck with it as others. But I was on 200tw tires. I haven't run them with rcomps yet, maybe next season. My HPS pads did fade after a few minutes of driving though, so i upgraded to HP+.

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The ducts did rub when I went close to full lock. Eventually I replaced the hoses when they wore through.

You're on a slippery slope, you know. While a functional mod, you're aware brake ducts reduce the streetability of the car. Next it's a harness, then a lightweight battery, then a half cage, then seats ...sooner or later you end up with something you feel is wasted anywhere but the track and become reluctant to drive it. Not sure how I'd know that.

Charles
And I agree on your thoughts about the upgrades, hence my original questions. I've seen so many people throw some good tires and brakes on an otherwise stock car and have a lot of fun. Once you start focusing on reducing weight and adding "endurance" mods, it's very easy to make the car a lot less streatable. And at the end of it, your main question will be why didn't I start with a cheaper, more capable platform. You can also ask me how I know haha.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      07-30-2018, 08:26 PM   #32
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This project is really kicking my ass....

Took out the fender liner, squished the duct to about half, put it all the way against the frame and it STILL gets hit by the tire.

The ONLY possible way I see this working is taking the hose from the dust shield, routing it in the middle of the axle between the control arms and routing it under the car to the front. In my case I can put it between the bumper and front lip. I will try a test run on that and probably buy new hose in black
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      07-31-2018, 06:42 AM   #33
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Black won't look as bad but there has to be a better way. What if you ran it down the knuckle, along the back of the control arm, and then brought it forward to the fender liner? Or are your tires just that wide that they eat up all the available real estate when turning?
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      07-31-2018, 10:12 AM   #34
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@kern417 yea there's no way I can route anything to the fender liner whatsoever. The tires I have are 245/40-18's and they leave a very tight gap even with no duct there :/

A friend mentioned putting in NACA ducts which I did see on another thread but to get the hose there, etc would be harder than just running it to the front lip.
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      07-31-2018, 12:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ421 View Post
You're on a slippery slope, you know....Next it's a harness, then a lightweight battery, then a half cage, then seats ...sooner or later you end up with something you feel is wasted anywhere but the track and become reluctant to drive it. Not sure how I'd know that.
I can relate...



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      07-31-2018, 01:42 PM   #36
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DVC holy crap!

If I still had my E46 I'd turn it to a dedicated track car.
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      07-31-2018, 07:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
DVC holy crap!

If I still had my E46 I'd turn it to a dedicated track car.
For a few years now I have thought about selling my F30 to get an e46 M3 to turn into a dedicated track car... I even put up a for sale ad late last year. But no bites on the car; apparently there's not much interest in a "magic bullet" car.... i.e. a nice looking, new-ish, reasonable daily driver that's set up to shred on the track.

At this point, the truth is that I'm enjoying the car so much on track that I'm in no rush to part with it...and as the value comes down, the merits of selling it for a cheaper track-only car continue to shrink.

Maybe one day I'll go full retard and cage it...
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      08-01-2018, 05:06 PM   #38
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DVC Yes basically what I found as well, there's no interest in a modded car. I just parted out and sold my E92 stock.
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@kern417 yea there's no way I can route anything to the fender liner whatsoever. The tires I have are 245/40-18's and they leave a very tight gap even with no duct there :/

A friend mentioned putting in NACA ducts which I did see on another thread but to get the hose there, etc would be harder than just running it to the front lip.
I wouldn't use a NACA duct. Just route the hose through the dedicated brake cooling holes in the bumper, it's the ideal place. That is how VAC Motorsports configured my E92.

You're probably not going to eliminate the possibility of rubbing. Put the hose as far out of the way as possible and make sure it's secured there e.g. won't get displaced if it contacts the tire. Zip ties around the hose through the fender liner ought to ensure that. (See my photos.)

Then what you need to determine is how often the tire will rub the hose. If it happens just doing a 90 degree turn from a Stop sign then you have a problem and will probably have to concede that you'll need to install the hoses at the track and that's it. Otherwise just deal with the rubbing and replace the hose when it wears through. If it has a small hole you can just use some duct tape to patch it at the track.

Charles
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      08-03-2018, 07:08 AM   #39
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DVC Yes basically what I found as well, there's no interest in a modded car. I just parted out and sold my E92 stock.

I wouldn't use a NACA duct. Just route the hose through the dedicated brake cooling holes in the bumper, it's the ideal place. That is how VAC Motorsports configured my E92.

You're probably not going to eliminate the possibility of rubbing. Put the hose as far out of the way as possible and make sure it's secured there e.g. won't get displaced if it contacts the tire. Zip ties around the hose through the fender liner ought to ensure that. (See my photos.)

Then what you need to determine is how often the tire will rub the hose. If it happens just doing a 90 degree turn from a Stop sign then you have a problem and will probably have to concede that you'll need to install the hoses at the track and that's it. Otherwise just deal with the rubbing and replace the hose when it wears through. If it has a small hole you can just use some duct tape to patch it at the track.

Charles
Even 90* turns on the road don't require a lot of angle. And I could see what you're saying for track days maybe, but if he does autox i'd imagine he'd go full lock pretty often. Granted it's not a super functioning part of the car so a hole in it wouldn't matter much, but i'd be worried about the tire rubbing against the coil wire.
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      08-04-2018, 07:42 AM   #40
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Yup, that metal wire would create some problems if it wore out from stress and puncture the tire. Still will be revisiting this when I have some time but in the mean time I did buy Porsche 911 GT3 brake scoops for $10 off FCP. I'll do any required trimming with the dremmel and somehow get it attached to the front control arms

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      08-22-2018, 04:13 PM   #41
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Quote:
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Yup, that metal wire would create some problems if it wore out from stress and puncture the tire. Still will be revisiting this when I have some time but in the mean time I did buy Porsche 911 GT3 brake scoops for $10 off FCP. I'll do any required trimming with the dremmel and somehow get it attached to the front control arms

Funny you should mention the GT3 ducts. I had them sitting in my garage for over a month. Finally got to install them last weekend before heading to Pocono for MPact. The plastic is soft, so they cut easily with a fairly sharp knife. No need to dremel; less cleanup. The rears almost clipped right on perfectly. I just had to make sure they angled correctly. I used strong zip-ties to hold them on and angle them correctly and hold it. Of the rears, only the tip of the passenger side needed a little trimming to clear the exhaust. Then I used some duct tape to cover the large holes to make them more efficient.
The fronts require more trimming to fit.
You can see an almost finished version next to the uncut one in the pictures. Be sure to use strong zip-ties because they most likely will hit something if the roads aren't perfect. Which I feel perfect roads don't exist in this world. Lol
I was careful to make some fine trimming to make sure the plastic edges weren't too close to any boots. This makes me feel better so I can be sure none of the boots will accidentally get cut. They get a little close to the axles on my xDrive, but like the rear, hey never touch. Again, used duct tape to cover the gaps.
I'd love to say how much they helped, but it was wet most of the day. Also, Pocono is much more easy on brakes than NJMP, where I usually go. So it's hard to say. But when it did start to dry up at the end of the day, my brakes seemed to hold up a little batter after the largest braking zone. I'm sure they are better than nothing.
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      08-22-2018, 06:17 PM   #42
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skier_du Thanks man!!!! Those pics are extremely helpful!
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      08-22-2018, 09:24 PM   #43
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skier_du Thanks man!!!! Those pics are extremely helpful!
Welcome. Glad to help.
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