Transfer Case Output Flange Failure, Cause Analysis, Prevention, and Repair

Enabled · 04-29-2021, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -KingJames-

Have a 17 330ix GT, in very low speeds during parking and turning the wheels fully to the right or left, theres some vibrations coming from the front wheels. BMW diagnosed it as a bad Transfer case and quoted me a full replacement + labor.

Shouldn't my car have the new "fix" with the rubber gumbo? Trying to see if BMW NA will pay for it.

I have seen that and it's usually the transfer case module getting stuck on full activated. Completely different issue and I have fixed those with a $75 used part and programming. It doesn't require a full transfer case, but that was cool of them.

Your car already has the rubber giubo/flex disc, so it wouldn't need to be done.

-KingJames- · 05-01-2021, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enabled

I have seen that and it's usually the transfer case module getting stuck on full activated. Completely different issue and I have fixed those with a $75 used part and programming. It doesn't require a full transfer case, but that was cool of them.

Your car already has the rubber giubo/flex disc, so it wouldn't need to be done.

Its always there, the vibrations with the wheel fully turned and backing out of a parking space. Well they haven't responded yet whether they would be covering it. What was the $75 used part and which module did you reprogram?

makkuro · 05-17-2021, 11:18 PM

For those who are curious, I have a 2015 320i Xdrive with 119,000 km. Replaced the output flange and flex disc today. Here’s the flange that I removed from the car.

https://ibb.co/QcvdbsF
https://ibb.co/74yKbgW

Enabled · 05-18-2021, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by makkuro

For those who are curious, I have a 2015 320i Xdrive with 119,000 km. Replaced the output flange and flex disc today. Here’s the flange that I removed from the car.

https://ibb.co/QcvdbsF
https://ibb.co/74yKbgW

There is little to no wear on it, good work nonetheless!

F30_320D_UK · 06-22-2021, 01:44 PM

So I had my TC replaced on my 2013 320d at 32k miles(2018 Jan)
Currently at 76k miles (2021 Jun)
Decided to change the TC fluid and fill plug today and to my horror, noticed they replaced my TC in 2018 with the aluminium guibo instead of the rubber guibo (part nr 26117610061)

I can't understand why they would be so daft.

The fluid was dark. Also noticed the TC mount that mounts onto the TC brace is torn so that needs replacing.

Questions:
Part nr for rubber TC mount and what would be required to replace it?
What special tools are required to replace the aluminium guibo with the rubber guibo?

keano16 · 10-09-2021, 01:20 PM

I have a 2013 320 xdrive with 120k miles. Got new tires few months ago. My car gets strong vibration on the highway than after 5 min or so goes away. Then comes back again.

I am worried is the transfer case. Was the bulletin updated to include gas cars too (not just diesel)?

Tim07e90 · 10-09-2021, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keano16

I have a 2013 320 xdrive with 120k miles. Got new tires few months ago. My car gets strong vibration on the highway than after 5 min or so goes away. Then comes back again.

I am worried is the transfer case. Was the bulletin updated to include gas cars too (not just diesel)?

Maybe first check to see it isn't balanced improperly since you just got new tires.

_des_ · 01-14-2022, 04:47 PM

I know this is posted on an f30 pages, But I have a 2012 750xi that I'm currently working on. It is an atc 350 transfercase.
This car has a vibration which feels similar to a misfire on the car. On previous vehicles when the shudder was available, it was usually the chain stretched. This atc350 does not have a chain, its gear driven. I checked the splines on the output shaft and they werent anything concerning. Took the clutch discs out. They seemed fine.
I would hate to throw the tcase back in without coming to a conclusion.
Unplugging the tcase motor. The shudder was gone while driving it. Anyone have any other thoughs?

LCornice · 01-26-2022, 11:39 AM

Appreciate the information this Forum provides. However, I hate the fact that I get to stress about things that I didn't know existed yesterday. I purchased a new-to-me 2014 328d from TX and had it shipped to MN. I have some of the history (car spent several years in Europe) and found the flex disc recall repair in my paperwork (Defect code: 0027100100). I called the TX dealer that did the repair (3/18/21) and they said the flex disc and transfer case were replaced at 91,000. She wouldn't share the actual paperwork because it had the PO's name on it (I thanked her keeping the PO private).

Now I can go back to worrying about the EGR and HPFP recalls. Thanks!

Enabled · 01-26-2022, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LCornice

Appreciate the information this Forum provides. However, I hate the fact that I get to stress about things that I didn't know existed yesterday. I purchased a new-to-me 2014 328d from TX and had it shipped to MN. I have some of the history (car spent several years in Europe) and found the flex disc recall repair in my paperwork (Defect code: 0027100100). I called the TX dealer that did the repair (3/18/21) and they said the flex disc and transfer case were replaced at 91,000. She wouldn't share the actual paperwork because it had the PO's name on it (I thanked her keeping the PO private).

Now I can go back to worrying about the EGR and HPFP recalls. Thanks!

That's good news!

I doubt the 2014 got HPFP recalls. The recall is for an issue with specific revision pumps' cam roller. It's not a general recall.

iMac6 · 05-03-2022, 11:40 AM

Hey Enabled. My '14 328dx skips a little under heavy acceleration, but it's very intermittent. I picked up the car last October with 137000mi on it. Good service documentation shows the giubo and EGR was replaced at 124,770mi under recall. The TC is still original from what I can tell.

I'm planning on doing a fluid drain/fill and was going to do the Loctite fix you detailed before. I was looking on the Loctite site and saw the 638 is made for the same purpose but has a stronger shear strength and can fill larger gaps than the 660.

What are your thoughts on using the 638 with a bit of wear on the shaft and output flange to try and "save" the TC? Worst case scenario, it doesn't do the trick and I have to replace it regardless, right?

Enabled · 05-03-2022, 11:58 AM

I would still use a loctite designed for splines over cylindrical parts, if possible. Loctite 638 claims it's good for cylindrical parts.

Yes, first step would be an inspection for the wear, and clean+loctite may rescue it. Mine never got to the point of skipping, so I'd be very curious what it looks like on yours!

CaptainFlasheart · 09-07-2022, 08:13 AM

Hi Enabled and others,

Amazing thread, always a huge relief when you see someone that has really looked into an issue rather than just employing the expensive BMW parts cannon!

Anyway a question or two from me, hopefully not a silly one. I have a 2014 (UK) 330d xdrive. It has 120k miles, I've only had it for the last 2k miles or so. When I first got it there was a very mild stutter under hard acceleration. Tyres were a mix of runflat and non runflat with different tread depths all round.

Then I had a blowout (rear tyre) at 70mph on runflats. Pulled over, saw that the runflat was holding up so drove off. Very bad vibration under light acceleration, got a bit better at 40mph with light load but practically undriveable.

Fitted a brand new set of Goodyear F1 tyres all round (staggered setup from factory - 225/40/19, 255/35/19). Stutter is better but still way worse than it was before the blowout.

Have had a partial fluid change on the transfer case (vac method) which has made no difference.

Remove the VTG fuse yesterday and the car is transformed. Other than the expected dash lights, the car is smooth and quiet but of course a little down on power.

I have sourced a low mileage replacement transfer case but it is from a LCI (2018) car. Will this cause an issue? I have a local garage that will do the swap for me but will I need any other bits? I have heard of giubo being different, will that affect me?

I'm hoping that the fact the car is smooth with the fuse removed means I don't have the output flange issue? Or is it the front drive shaft flange that wears? Did the blowout and consequent 20 mile drive on a blown runflat kill off the transfer case?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks a million for your help to everyone so far!

Enabled · 09-07-2022, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainFlasheart

Hi Enabled and others,

Amazing thread, always a huge relief when you see someone that has really looked into an issue rather than just employing the expensive BMW parts cannon!

Anyway a question or two from me, hopefully not a silly one. I have a 2014 (UK) 330d xdrive. It has 120k miles, I've only had it for the last 2k miles or so. When I first got it there was a very mild stutter under hard acceleration. Tyres were a mix of runflat and non runflat with different tread depths all round.

Then I had a blowout (rear tyre) at 70mph on runflats. Pulled over, saw that the runflat was holding up so drove off. Very bad vibration under light acceleration, got a bit better at 40mph with light load but practically undriveable.

Fitted a brand new set of Goodyear F1 tyres all round (staggered setup from factory - 225/40/19, 255/35/19). Stutter is better but still way worse than it was before the blowout.

Have had a partial fluid change on the transfer case (vac method) which has made no difference.

Remove the VTG fuse yesterday and the car is transformed. Other than the expected dash lights, the car is smooth and quiet but of course a little down on power.

I have sourced a low mileage replacement transfer case but it is from a LCI (2018) car. Will this cause an issue? I have a local garage that will do the swap for me but will I need any other bits? I have heard of giubo being different, will that affect me?

I'm hoping that the fact the car is smooth with the fuse removed means I don't have the output flange issue? Or is it the front drive shaft flange that wears? Did the blowout and consequent 20 mile drive on a blown runflat kill off the transfer case?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks a million for your help to everyone so far!

I have seen the stutter come from poorly learned adaptations for the clutch position, and sometimes reteaching the clutch positions solves it. Rarely, the transfer case module is bad, and this is an easier repair. Either way, I would reteach the transfer case module first before planning to swap out.

The best way to see if it's an output flange is to simply inspect it. I wouldn't think it's that in your case. But an inspection is recommended.

What speed and what are you doing when the car stutters?

The LCI transfer case (27108643150) has a different size output flange vs. the preLCI 27108643149 transfer case. You would have to put the bigger output flange on if you want it to mate to your driveshaft.
Otherwise there are not other relevant differences.

CaptainFlasheart · 09-07-2022, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enabled

I have seen the stutter come from poorly learned adaptations for the clutch position, and sometimes reteaching the clutch positions solves it. Rarely, the transfer case module is bad, and this is an easier repair. Either way, I would reteach the transfer case module first before planning to swap out.

The best way to see if it's an output flange is to simply inspect it. I wouldn't think it's that in your case. But an inspection is recommended.

What speed and what are you doing when the car stutters?

The LCI transfer case (27108643150) has a different size output flange vs. the preLCI 27108643149 transfer case. You would have to put the bigger output flange on if you want it to mate to your driveshaft.
Otherwise there are not other relevant differences.

Hi and thanks for the speedy reply.

I can make it stutter pretty badly with full throttle acceleration when I hit 3rd/4th gear. But it sometimes will do it with just normal driving at lower speeds. Gear changes feel a bit clunky too. All of these symptoms go away with the fuse out.

I did actually try the clutch adaptation using ISTA+. The value changed very slightly from what it was originally on but made no improvement to the drive.

Just to clarify - the output shaft you refer to in this thread and the one that would need to be replace to move from pre LCI to LCI - is that the one to the rear or front drive shaft?

I've ordered a new giubo to go with the transfer case, anything else I should be looking at replacing? I'm not doing the work myself but will ask the garage to check the output shaft flange when it's swapped from the old to the new transfer case. Would this just be a case of circlip out, pull flange, swap over and circlip back in? Sounds like some loctite would be a good idea anyway while doing this.

I'm assuming I'll also need a i-level update for the newer module to work?

Thanks again

Enabled · 09-07-2022, 12:39 PM

I would use your original module, and enter in the new calibration transfer case code.

-Rear drive shaft, and you're going to have to put the output flange that fits your larger 105mm drive shaft. This is the *preLCI* output flange. If your original flange is worn, you should not use it.

Front driveshaft is the same for preLCI and LCI.

CaptainFlasheart · 09-08-2022, 06:57 AM

Thanks for the info.

Would an option be to swap the prop shaft with an LCI one (which is cheaper than a new output flange kit!) or would that create more issues at the rear diff end too? Is the size difference just at the front end?

Also, with the motor - again i'd like to keep the low mileage one if possible, would it just need the software update for the car to work or is that opening a whole new can of worms? I do need to update the i-level of the car anyway as I have a adaptive cruise radar that has been fitted that is newer than the one originally fitted.

Sorry for all the questions and thnaks for your continued help. You're a star!

Enabled · 09-08-2022, 11:08 AM

In that case, you would need the entire LCI rear drive shaft as well. The rear section will match your differential just fine.

As far as the transfer case module, it would really just need coding to get a used one working correctly. Not all modules receive updates with every release, and certainly the transfer case module doesn't have much to update anyways. For the USA versions it hadn't been updated in years.

CaptainFlasheart · 09-09-2022, 05:59 AM

OK, having taken a look at the job of swapping the driveshaft (and bearing in mind I'm paying someone to do it), I'll just go with swapping the output flange as long as it's in good condition.

The garage I'm using is able to update the i level of the car so hopefully keeping the new motor will be ok. If not I guess it's not a huge job to swap to the old one.

I have a new guibo (rubber one) as mine's a 2014 so probably has the original aluminium one.

arsenal6 · 05-26-2023, 05:14 AM

I am having a bit of a symptom similar to what is described, and my mechanic thinks its the transfer case as well.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51404-9999.pdf

Would this TSB be related?

Enabled · 05-26-2023, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arsenal6

I am having a bit of a symptom similar to what is described, and my mechanic thinks its the transfer case as well.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51404-9999.pdf

Would this TSB be related?

I really doubt there are any of those original cars left running incompatible gear ratios in the front differential vs. rear differential... but it's worth giving everything a good inspection and an error read with a BMW capable tool.

Jasey12 · 05-27-2023, 02:15 AM

What a brilliant thread, full of information. Certainly looks like something I could attempt myself, but just wondering will this fix a transfer box that has started to already “fail”?

I have pre-LCI (2014) 320d, mileage around 75,000 miles.(328d to you guys over the pond) N47T Auto xDrive, and I’m having an issue where if I accelerate hard (in a a straight line, say a slip road or overtaking on the motorway) I get a type of skipping/judder, I can feel the car lurching, almost like a misfire. If I drive normally I don’t get the issue (or it’s undetectable) All 4 tyres are star marked and replaced about 3000 miles ago. All are the correct sizes for staggered setup.
If I was to do the loctite and rubber guibo fix and possibly a fluid change, can my transfer box be saved? Or would it be the clutches in the box itself or something else?

Thanks all, we don’t have an awful lot of information like this over in the UK.

05-17-2021, 11:18 PM	#223
makkuro New Member 2 Rep 25 Posts Drives: F30 320i Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: North iTrader: (0)	For those who are curious, I have a 2015 320i Xdrive with 119,000 km. Replaced the output flange and flex disc today. Here’s the flange that I removed from the car. https://ibb.co/QcvdbsF https://ibb.co/74yKbgW
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-22-2021, 01:44 PM	#225
F30_320D_UK Private First Class 211 Rep 190 Posts Drives: BMW F30 320D M-Sport Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Manchester, UK iTrader: (0)	So I had my TC replaced on my 2013 320d at 32k miles(2018 Jan) Currently at 76k miles (2021 Jun) Decided to change the TC fluid and fill plug today and to my horror, noticed they replaced my TC in 2018 with the aluminium guibo instead of the rubber guibo (part nr 26117610061) I can't understand why they would be so daft. The fluid was dark. Also noticed the TC mount that mounts onto the TC brace is torn so that needs replacing. Questions: Part nr for rubber TC mount and what would be required to replace it? What special tools are required to replace the aluminium guibo with the rubber guibo?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-09-2021, 01:20 PM	#226
keano16 Private 14 Rep 57 Posts Drives: F30 Join Date: May 2014 Location: Massachusetts iTrader: (0)	I have a 2013 320 xdrive with 120k miles. Got new tires few months ago. My car gets strong vibration on the highway than after 5 min or so goes away. Then comes back again. I am worried is the transfer case. Was the bulletin updated to include gas cars too (not just diesel)?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-14-2022, 04:47 PM	#228
_des_ Private First Class 21 Rep 140 Posts Drives: 2011 550i Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Alabama iTrader: (1)	I know this is posted on an f30 pages, But I have a 2012 750xi that I'm currently working on. It is an atc 350 transfercase. This car has a vibration which feels similar to a misfire on the car. On previous vehicles when the shudder was available, it was usually the chain stretched. This atc350 does not have a chain, its gear driven. I checked the splines on the output shaft and they werent anything concerning. Took the clutch discs out. They seemed fine. I would hate to throw the tcase back in without coming to a conclusion. Unplugging the tcase motor. The shudder was gone while driving it. Anyone have any other thoughs?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-26-2022, 11:39 AM	#229
LCornice Enlisted Member 15 Rep 39 Posts Drives: 2014 328d XDrive sedan Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: Minnesota iTrader: (0)	Appreciate the information this Forum provides. However, I hate the fact that I get to stress about things that I didn't know existed yesterday. I purchased a new-to-me 2014 328d from TX and had it shipped to MN. I have some of the history (car spent several years in Europe) and found the flex disc recall repair in my paperwork (Defect code: 0027100100). I called the TX dealer that did the repair (3/18/21) and they said the flex disc and transfer case were replaced at 91,000. She wouldn't share the actual paperwork because it had the PO's name on it (I thanked her keeping the PO private). Now I can go back to worrying about the EGR and HPFP recalls. Thanks! __________________ 2014 328d XDrive Sedan, M-Sport Estoril Blue Former: 1999 F250 7.3L, 2000 Jetta TDI, 2009 Jetta TDI
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-03-2022, 11:40 AM	#231
iMac6 Registered 6 Rep 2 Posts Drives: ‘14 328d xDrive Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: Maine iTrader: (0)	Hey Enabled. My '14 328dx skips a little under heavy acceleration, but it's very intermittent. I picked up the car last October with 137000mi on it. Good service documentation shows the giubo and EGR was replaced at 124,770mi under recall. The TC is still original from what I can tell. I'm planning on doing a fluid drain/fill and was going to do the Loctite fix you detailed before. I was looking on the Loctite site and saw the 638 is made for the same purpose but has a stronger shear strength and can fill larger gaps than the 660. What are your thoughts on using the 638 with a bit of wear on the shaft and output flange to try and "save" the TC? Worst case scenario, it doesn't do the trick and I have to replace it regardless, right?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-03-2022, 11:58 AM	#232
Enabled Lieutenant Colonel 1407 Rep 1,800 Posts Drives: 328xd Wagon, M2 Competition Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	I would still use a loctite designed for splines over cylindrical parts, if possible. Loctite 638 claims it's good for cylindrical parts. Yes, first step would be an inspection for the wear, and clean+loctite may rescue it. Mine never got to the point of skipping, so I'd be very curious what it looks like on yours! __________________ -2014 328d Wagon, 8HP. Self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs. -2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp -2016 Mini Cooper S, MT. Many plans. Others: -E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
	Appreciate 1 iMac66.00 Quote

09-07-2022, 08:13 AM	#233
CaptainFlasheart New Member 0 Rep 12 Posts Drives: 2014 435d xDrive M Sport Join Date: May 2022 Location: North, UK iTrader: (0)	Hi Enabled and others, Amazing thread, always a huge relief when you see someone that has really looked into an issue rather than just employing the expensive BMW parts cannon! Anyway a question or two from me, hopefully not a silly one. I have a 2014 (UK) 330d xdrive. It has 120k miles, I've only had it for the last 2k miles or so. When I first got it there was a very mild stutter under hard acceleration. Tyres were a mix of runflat and non runflat with different tread depths all round. Then I had a blowout (rear tyre) at 70mph on runflats. Pulled over, saw that the runflat was holding up so drove off. Very bad vibration under light acceleration, got a bit better at 40mph with light load but practically undriveable. Fitted a brand new set of Goodyear F1 tyres all round (staggered setup from factory - 225/40/19, 255/35/19). Stutter is better but still way worse than it was before the blowout. Have had a partial fluid change on the transfer case (vac method) which has made no difference. Remove the VTG fuse yesterday and the car is transformed. Other than the expected dash lights, the car is smooth and quiet but of course a little down on power. I have sourced a low mileage replacement transfer case but it is from a LCI (2018) car. Will this cause an issue? I have a local garage that will do the swap for me but will I need any other bits? I have heard of giubo being different, will that affect me? I'm hoping that the fact the car is smooth with the fuse removed means I don't have the output flange issue? Or is it the front drive shaft flange that wears? Did the blowout and consequent 20 mile drive on a blown runflat kill off the transfer case? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks a million for your help to everyone so far!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-07-2022, 12:39 PM	#236
Enabled Lieutenant Colonel 1407 Rep 1,800 Posts Drives: 328xd Wagon, M2 Competition Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	I would use your original module, and enter in the new calibration transfer case code. -Rear drive shaft, and you're going to have to put the output flange that fits your larger 105mm drive shaft. This is the preLCI output flange. If your original flange is worn, you should not use it. Front driveshaft is the same for preLCI and LCI. __________________ -2014 328d Wagon, 8HP. Self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs. -2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp -2016 Mini Cooper S, MT. Many plans. Others: -E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-08-2022, 06:57 AM	#237
CaptainFlasheart New Member 0 Rep 12 Posts Drives: 2014 435d xDrive M Sport Join Date: May 2022 Location: North, UK iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the info. Would an option be to swap the prop shaft with an LCI one (which is cheaper than a new output flange kit!) or would that create more issues at the rear diff end too? Is the size difference just at the front end? Also, with the motor - again i'd like to keep the low mileage one if possible, would it just need the software update for the car to work or is that opening a whole new can of worms? I do need to update the i-level of the car anyway as I have a adaptive cruise radar that has been fitted that is newer than the one originally fitted. Sorry for all the questions and thnaks for your continued help. You're a star!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-08-2022, 11:08 AM	#238
Enabled Lieutenant Colonel 1407 Rep 1,800 Posts Drives: 328xd Wagon, M2 Competition Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	In that case, you would need the entire LCI rear drive shaft as well. The rear section will match your differential just fine. As far as the transfer case module, it would really just need coding to get a used one working correctly. Not all modules receive updates with every release, and certainly the transfer case module doesn't have much to update anyways. For the USA versions it hadn't been updated in years. __________________ -2014 328d Wagon, 8HP. Self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs. -2019 M2 Competition MT, Alpine White. Self-tuned 560hp -2016 Mini Cooper S, MT. Many plans. Others: -E36 328is. 2000 Z3 Roady. 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual. Estoril Z3M Coupe.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-09-2022, 05:59 AM	#239
CaptainFlasheart New Member 0 Rep 12 Posts Drives: 2014 435d xDrive M Sport Join Date: May 2022 Location: North, UK iTrader: (0)	OK, having taken a look at the job of swapping the driveshaft (and bearing in mind I'm paying someone to do it), I'll just go with swapping the output flange as long as it's in good condition. The garage I'm using is able to update the i level of the car so hopefully keeping the new motor will be ok. If not I guess it's not a huge job to swap to the old one. I have a new guibo (rubber one) as mine's a 2014 so probably has the original aluminium one.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-26-2023, 05:14 AM	#240
arsenal6 Second Lieutenant 28 Rep 207 Posts Drives: bmw 428xi Join Date: Oct 2022 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0) Garage List 2015 bmw 428xi [0.00]	I am having a bit of a symptom similar to what is described, and my mechanic thinks its the transfer case as well. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51404-9999.pdf Would this TSB be related?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-27-2023, 02:15 AM	#242
Jasey12 Registered 2 Rep 1 Posts Drives: F30 320d xDrive ZF8 Join Date: May 2023 Location: Stafford iTrader: (0)	What a brilliant thread, full of information. Certainly looks like something I could attempt myself, but just wondering will this fix a transfer box that has started to already “fail”? I have pre-LCI (2014) 320d, mileage around 75,000 miles.(328d to you guys over the pond) N47T Auto xDrive, and I’m having an issue where if I accelerate hard (in a a straight line, say a slip road or overtaking on the motorway) I get a type of skipping/judder, I can feel the car lurching, almost like a misfire. If I drive normally I don’t get the issue (or it’s undetectable) All 4 tyres are star marked and replaced about 3000 miles ago. All are the correct sizes for staggered setup. If I was to do the loctite and rubber guibo fix and possibly a fluid change, can my transfer box be saved? Or would it be the clutches in the box itself or something else? Thanks all, we don’t have an awful lot of information like this over in the UK.
	Appreciate 1 AndrewC198910931.00 Quote