[Ron435d]

Morning gentlemen,

One of my first posts here however being a voyager for some time. I've recently bought my second 435d m sport xdrive. Loved the first one however had to sell to fund other things however I'm back in one now and would love to do some beginner track days. Before i do I'd like some advice of the correct track prep not just for my car but for myself. Spec of the car so far is as follows,

16 plate pre lci 44k
2dr coupe
Sapphire black, coral red interior
M sport with m sport plus package
M performance kit
19inch with Michelin RF with 5mm all round.
Unicorn stage 1 remap I had put on 4 weeks ago ( 368hp/770nm)

Stuff I'm telling myself I need however if you can tell me otherwise I'll be very grateful.

Set of Michelin pilot sport 4s
Updated pads however dont know what brand maybe ebc yellow stuff?
Updated break fluid which brand?
Updated brake hoses?
Wagner intercooler
Stage 2 map
Xhp gearbox map (not essential but going to get intercooler map and gearbox map at same time)
Mss suspension kit evolve have started doing, dont want to go coilovers as wont be many track days and simply cant afford them,
Can you get specific track alignment/ fast road set up?
Anti roll bars? Heard cars fitted with xdrive are week? Which would you reccomend.
Anything else youd reccomend?

For the car to take,
Spare pads,
Spare wheel,
Tools,
Fuel,
Fire exstinguisher,
Insurance,
Anything else youd reccomend?

For myself,
Good foot wear
Good gloves
Helmet
Portable seat and table
Food
Water
Anything else youd reccomend?

Mainly advice regarding the cars set up is needed tyres, pads, fluid, rool bars etc.

Much Appriciate any advice and help.

Kind regards.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Morning gentlemen,

One of my first posts here however being a voyager for some time. I've recently bought my second 435d m sport xdrive. Loved the first one however had to sell to fund other things however I'm back in one now and would love to do some beginner track days. Before i do I'd like some advice of the correct track prep not just for my car but for myself. Spec of the car so far is as follows,

16 plate pre lci 44k
2dr coupe
Sapphire black, coral red interior
M sport with m sport plus package
M performance kit
19inch with Michelin RF with 5mm all round.
Unicorn stage 1 remap I had put on 4 weeks ago ( 368hp/770nm)

Stuff I'm telling myself I need however if you can tell me otherwise I'll be very grateful.

Set of Michelin pilot sport 4s
Updated pads however dont know what brand maybe ebc yellow stuff?
Updated break fluid which brand?
Updated brake hoses?
Wagner intercooler
Stage 2 map
Xhp gearbox map (not essential but going to get intercooler map and gearbox map at same time)
Mss suspension kit evolve have started doing, dont want to go coilovers as wont be many track days and simply cant afford them,
Can you get specific track alignment/ fast road set up?
Anti roll bars? Heard cars fitted with xdrive are week? Which would you reccomend.
Anything else youd reccomend?

For the car to take,
Spare pads,
Spare wheel,
Tools,
Fuel,
Fire exstinguisher,
Insurance,
Anything else youd reccomend?

For myself,
Good foot wear
Good gloves
Helmet
Portable seat and table
Food
Water
Anything else youd reccomend?

Mainly advice regarding the cars set up is needed tyres, pads, fluid, rool bars etc.

Much Appriciate any advice and help.

Kind regards.

I never tracked my F30 but I have tracked my current and previous F80 which are more track ready than the F30. Regardless, most of these will still apply. I e been tracking for a little over a year now and here's what I've learned so far:

First and for most don't worry about modding the car just yet. Just go out to the track with what you have. It's too easy to get caught up in modding the car to go faster instead of improving as a driver to go faster. Forget the stage 2, intercooler, etc for now. Just check your fluids, torque your lugs, check your brakes etc to make sure you are safe and compliant. Have you first track day stock and go from there. Mods in order of importance:

1) tires
2) brakes
3) suspension
4) everything else

MPS4S are okay for the track. Much better than MPSS. However they are still primarily a street tire. RE71R's are more of a hybrid track/street tire that can even outperform NT01's. If you don't mind sacrificing some life, these are the way to go. Monitor your air pressure and tire temperature. I usually drop 4-6 PSI for the track.

Popular brake pads for the F80 are pagid, ferodo, and PFC. I hear good things about endless.

Adjustable suspension will allow you to corner or cross balance the car. Specialized alignment shops that specialize in track cars are highly recommended. I don't know what the F30 needs, but I added camber plates to dial in front negative camber as well as rear to tame the F80's rear end. Rake was adjusted for braking stability. The F80 is a different beast though, so consult other F30 drivers or the alignment shop for what the F30 needs.

In addition to what you mentioned, here's also what I like to bring:

Tire Gauge - leave the cheap autozone plastic gauges at home. Get a quality gauge that you can bleed with.
Air compressor - amazon has affordable battery or accessory powered ones that are great for the track.
Torque Wrench - I like to torque before going out on the track. Just make sure the wheels aren't hot or you will stretch the lugs.
Aluminum Tape - F80 brakes get super hot and sometimes the heat will cause wheel weights to fall off. I tape them up the night before to keep them on. Bring the tape in case it falls off or you forgot a wheel.
Nitrile Gloves - to keep your hands clean while you work on your car
Extra Oil - you never know

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

I never tracked my F30 but I have tracked my current and previous F80 which are more track ready than the F30. Regardless, most of these will still apply. I e been tracking for a little over a year now and here's what I've learned so far:

First and for most don't worry about modding the car just yet. Just go out to the track with what you have. It's too easy to get caught up in modding the car to go faster instead of improving as a driver to go faster. Forget the stage 2, intercooler, etc for now. Just check your fluids, torque your lugs, check your brakes etc to make sure you are safe and compliant. Have you first track day stock and go from there. Mods in order of importance:

1) tires
2) brakes
3) suspension
4) everything else

MPS4S are okay for the track. Much better than MPSS. However they are still primarily a street tire. RE71R's are more of a hybrid track/street tire that can even outperform NT01's. If you don't mind sacrificing some life, these are the way to go. Monitor your air pressure and tire temperature. I usually drop 4-6 PSI for the track.

Popular brake pads for the F80 are pagid, ferodo, and PFC. I hear good things about endless.

Adjustable suspension will allow you to corner or cross balance the car. Specialized alignment shops that specialize in track cars are highly recommended. I don't know what the F30 needs, but I added camber plates to dial in front negative camber as well as rear to tame the F80's rear end. Rake was adjusted for braking stability. The F80 is a different beast though, so consult other F30 drivers or the alignment shop for what the F30 needs.

In addition to what you mentioned, here's also what I like to bring:

Tire Gauge - leave the cheap autozone plastic gauges at home. Get a quality gauge that you can bleed with.
Air compressor - amazon has affordable battery or accessory powered ones that are great for the track.
Torque Wrench - I like to torque before going out on the track. Just make sure the wheels aren't hot or you will stretch the lugs.
Aluminum Tape - F80 brakes get super hot and sometimes the heat will cause wheel weights to fall off. I tape them up the night before to keep them on. Bring the tape in case it falls off or you forgot a wheel.
Nitrile Gloves - to keep your hands clean while you work on your car
Extra Oil - you never know

Morning mate,

Thankyou for literally every point you've just mentioned. I will scrap the intercooler and map etc for now and focus on the essentials. I've never heard of that specific tyre however I'm not completely familiar with track tyres as a whole having said that I'll go off your advise and order a set of them, what size front and back would you reccomend for a set of 20" (I have a set of 666m on order)?

I will look into all 3 pads you've mentioned and do some more research to see which one would best suit my standards m sport disks.

Suspension and alignment i have a track alignment specialist guy whom I've spoken to breifly who mentioned most if not all the points you mentioned above, he seemed to know his stuff so after alloys, tyres and pads are fitted I will take to him to set it up correctly.

I have a tyre gauge however I shal order an appropriate air compressor.

All the other points you've mentioned I've wrote on a check list and will do alot more research and order accordingly.

Priceless information mate really appriciate it. Theres a few track days at cadwell park (local track) in may I'm hoping to get booked onto.

Thanks again I'll keep you posted how I get on.

Regards.

[BMWILUVU]

The most important changes imo are brake fluid and brake pads. I use SRF. If you boil your stock fluid or if your pads can't take the heat, you've got no brakes. After those, I would check if the car overheats and add an intercooler if needed. Most other things help getting a faster lap-time but since you are a beginner, I would take it slow and concentrate on learning how to drive before investing in anything else.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Morning mate,

Thankyou for literally every point you've just mentioned. I will scrap the intercooler and map etc for now and focus on the essentials. I've never heard of that specific tyre however I'm not completely familiar with track tyres as a whole having said that I'll go off your advise and order a set of them, what size front and back would you reccomend for a set of 20" (I have a set of 666m on order)?

I will look into all 3 pads you've mentioned and do some more research to see which one would best suit my standards m sport disks.

Suspension and alignment i have a track alignment specialist guy whom I've spoken to breifly who mentioned most if not all the points you mentioned above, he seemed to know his stuff so after alloys, tyres and pads are fitted I will take to him to set it up correctly.

I have a tyre gauge however I shal order an appropriate air compressor.

All the other points you've mentioned I've wrote on a check list and will do alot more research and order accordingly.

Priceless information mate really appriciate it. Theres a few track days at cadwell park (local track) in may I'm hoping to get booked onto.

Thanks again I'll keep you posted how I get on.

Regards.

Here's the compressor I have and it works great:

Tire Inflator Air Compressor, 20V Cordless Car Tire Pump with Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V Car Power Adapter, Digital Pressure Gauge, Avid Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTGM2LD..._dlNBEbXCVXQSX

The pressure reading is 1 or 2 psi off but it's good enough to get you in the ballpark. I overinflate 1 or 2 psi then bleed with the gauge.

I will say that the 666 wheels are heavy. Are these going to be your daily wheels or track only? If they are track wheels most people go for lighter 18's to save weight and money on tires. However, if you're not tracking that often or aren't trying to break records, then don't worry about it too much.

On the F80, we are constantly trying to get rear traction (lots of torque lots of power) so the wider the better on the rears. I run 295/30/20 on the rears. Fronts are limited for clearance issues, I run 275/35/19's. These are wider than stock, which are 265 and 285. F30 probably has tighter clearance issues since your fenders aren't flared.

Ultimately just have some fun! Learn as much as you can as a driver, don't let equipment hold you back from going to the track, in all honesty a bone stock car is perfectly fine to learn with.

One more thing: I recommend turning off DSC completely and drive moderately. Most beginners rely too much on DSC and pick up bad habits because DSC is saving them. It's better to find those limits early and feel the car without the nannies. You will eventually want to turn it off anyway for faster lap times. It also saves your brakes since that's what DSC is using to fix your mistakes.

If you are uncomfortable with turning it completely off them pay extra close attention to the DSC light. If it's flashing, then chances are you are overdriving the car. Let it teach you the limits. Just keep in mind that optimally you actually do want to break a little traction for good slip angles, so leaving DSC on will not teach you how to ride that line. It will try to show you where it is but not let you get there especially on the F30, which has a much more conservative DSC than the F80's MDM mode, which allows for oversteer.

[Briland33]

Add some titanium break pad shims for heat management between pads and fluid. 100% use Motul brake fluid.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

I will look into all 3 pads you've mentioned and do some more research to see which one would best suit my standards m sport disks.

Suspension and alignment i have a track alignment specialist guy whom I've spoken to breifly who mentioned most if not all the points you mentioned above, he seemed to know his stuff so after alloys, tyres and pads are fitted I will take to him to set it up correctly.

In particular the popular Pagid and PFC pads are the Pagid RSL29 and PFC08. I've used both and the PFC08 is my preference. The RSL29s don't bite well, and require you to get much deeper into the pedal stroke to stop well. the PFC08 grabs sooner, but is more difficult to modulate since it bites harder with less pedal stroke. That said, it didn't take very long to get used to the PFC08.

Ferodo is releasing their 3.12 compound for the M-sport blue brakes soon per Essex. That looks like a good pad and I'm looking forward to trying that once I go through my PFC08s.

Originally Posted by jmg

One more thing: I recommend turning off DSC completely and drive moderately. Most beginners rely too much on DSC and pick up bad habits because DSC is saving them. It's better to find those limits early and feel the car without the nannies. You will eventually want to turn it off anyway for faster lap times. It also saves your brakes since that's what DSC is using to fix your mistakes.

If you are uncomfortable with turning it completely off them pay extra close attention to the DSC light. If it's flashing, then chances are you are overdriving the car. Let it teach you the limits. Just keep in mind that optimally you actually do want to break a little traction for good slip angles, so leaving DSC on will not teach you how to ride that line. It will try to show you where it is but not let you get there especially on the F30, which has a much more conservative DSC than the F80's MDM mode, which allows for oversteer.

The downside to turning DSC and DTC off is you're stuck in comfort mode throttle. I actually recommend the opposite and just putting the car in Sport+. Sport+ will let the car slide, and you can still spin out (I know from personal experience , Sport+ didn't start to intervene until I REALLY lost it). The difference in intervention between comfort and Sport+ is pretty massive IME. With comfort mode DSC the car doesn't feel right and it feels like the rear end is dragging rather than rotating around naturally.

Originally Posted by Briland33

Add some titanium break pad shims for heat management between pads and fluid. 100% use Motul brake fluid.

I don't think the titanium shims are necessary, especially for a beginner.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

In particular the popular Pagid and PFC pads are the Pagid RSL29 and PFC08. I've used both and the PFC08 is my preference. The RSL29s don't bite well, and require you to get much deeper into the pedal stroke to stop well. the PFC08 grabs sooner, but is more difficult to modulate since it bites harder with less pedal stroke. That said, it didn't take very long to get used to the PFC08.

Ferodo is releasing their 3.12 compound for the M-sport blue brakes soon per Essex. That looks like a good pad and I'm looking forward to trying that once I go through my PFC08s.

The downside to turning DSC and DTC off is you're stuck in comfort mode throttle. I actually recommend the opposite and just putting the car in Sport+. Sport+ will let the car slide, and you can still spin out (I know from personal experience , Sport+ didn't start to intervene until I REALLY lost it). The difference in intervention between comfort and Sport+ is pretty massive IME. With comfort mode DSC the car doesn't feel right and it feels like the rear end is dragging rather than rotating around naturally.

I don't think the titanium shims are necessary, especially for a beginner.

That must be inherit with F30's. DSC is independent on F80's. I can have it completely off in sport and sport +. That being said, isn't chassis mode only throttle response? WOT is still WOT in comfort or sport +. You shouldn't be losing any power in comfort, so going on track in comfort with DSC off will still result in faster lap times than sport+ with it on. This is speculation on may part however as I only have experience tracking the F80, so correct me if I am wrong.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Ferodo is releasing their 3.12 compound for the M-sport blue brakes soon per Essex. That looks like a good pad and I'm looking forward to trying that once I go through my PFC08s.

Keep in mind that 3.12's are not good street pads where they will unlikely reach optimal operating temperature:



Luckily, the F30 M Sport brakes are similar to the F80 brakes where pad swapping doesn't require removal of the calipers, so swapping from track pads to street pads and vice versa are not that difficult.

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

The most important changes imo are brake fluid and brake pads. I use SRF. If you boil your stock fluid or if your pads can't take the heat, you've got no brakes. After those, I would check if the car overheats and add an intercooler if needed. Most other things help getting a faster lap-time but since you are a beginner, I would take it slow and concentrate on learning how to drive before investing in anything else.

Morning mate I am definatly looking into pads and fluid. Are the standard m sport brake disks up to the job, mine are new all round 2 months ago.

Cheers

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

Here's the compressor I have and it works great:

Tire Inflator Air Compressor, 20V Cordless Car Tire Pump with Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, 12V Car Power Adapter, Digital Pressure Gauge, Avid Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTGM2LD..._dlNBEbXCVXQSX

The pressure reading is 1 or 2 psi off but it's good enough to get you in the ballpark. I overinflate 1 or 2 psi then bleed with the gauge.

I will say that the 666 wheels are heavy. Are these going to be your daily wheels or track only? If they are track wheels most people go for lighter 18's to save weight and money on tires. However, if you're not tracking that often or aren't trying to break records, then don't worry about it too much.

On the F80, we are constantly trying to get rear traction (lots of torque lots of power) so the wider the better on the rears. I run 295/30/20 on the rears. Fronts are limited for clearance issues, I run 275/35/19's. These are wider than stock, which are 265 and 285. F30 probably has tighter clearance issues since your fenders aren't flared.

Ultimately just have some fun! Learn as much as you can as a driver, don't let equipment hold you back from going to the track, in all honesty a bone stock car is perfectly fine to learn with.

One more thing: I recommend turning off DSC completely and drive moderately. Most beginners rely too much on DSC and pick up bad habits because DSC is saving them. It's better to find those limits early and feel the car without the nannies. You will eventually want to turn it off anyway for faster lap times. It also saves your brakes since that's what DSC is using to fix your mistakes.

If you are uncomfortable with turning it completely off them pay extra close attention to the DSC light. If it's flashing, then chances are you are overdriving the car. Let it teach you the limits. Just keep in mind that optimally you actually do want to break a little traction for good slip angles, so leaving DSC on will not teach you how to ride that line. It will try to show you where it is but not let you get there especially on the F30, which has a much more conservative DSC than the F80's MDM mode, which allows for oversteer.

Morning,

The 666m are for daily use however to begin with I will probably order some good road tyres say the mpss4s for now and see how I get on if I really enjoy the track day and have fun and recon I'll be doing alot more I'll order some specific 18" lightweight rims and the Bridgestone tyres you mentioned or specific track day tyres. What I dint want to do is order the alloys and tyres now and realise atually I had fun on the day but not enough to continue and be out of pocket. Having said that I recon I'll have some good fun and want to do it more and more. I'll.order that compressor.

That's interesting you are 20.on the back and 19 on the front. I've seen alot of set ups like this. Why is this?

Regarding the dsc your comment resonated with me about leaving it off. On the road however I never turn it off just for the safety of others as i dont know my car well.enough yet. However on track it will all be completly off car and gear box in its sportier setting and I'll have a toy about with paddles once confident, granted that will be a way off and leaving it in auto for now is what I'll do just to get used to the car the track and I dont want to make it too complicated too soon. And like you say mainly have fun. But make sure the cars to a high standard prior to going.

Again appreciate the advice mate

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

That must be inherit with F30's. DSC is independent on F80's. I can have it completely off in sport and sport +. That being said, isn't chassis mode only throttle response? WOT is still WOT in comfort or sport +. You shouldn't be losing any power in comfort, so going on track in comfort with DSC off will still result in faster lap times than sport+ with it on. This is speculation on may part however as I only have experience tracking the F80, so correct me if I am wrong.

This is intresting, so my thoughts were that obviously normal comfort mode was the car in it's normal setting, sport mode changes the characteristics of the engine throttle response, chassis and suspension, sports plus was the same as sport setting with traction control completly off.

However pushing the single traction control button itself whilst in any mode turned traction off just as it would in sports plus, or have I got this wrong? Bare in mind I'm in a f32 435d and not the f80.

I have seen somewhere that even in sports plus traction is off but not completly and something like atually holding the traction control button down for a number of seconds atually turns it off completly. I could be wrong but I'm sure I've read this or something similar.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

That's interesting you are 20.on the back and 19 on the front. I've seen alot of set ups like this. Why is this?

The M3 CS comes with this configuration standard. Since the F80 in CS trim is making 443 lb-ft in torque and 453 hp , 20's might be the ideal size to maximize distance per rotation. Less power and torque would make smaller wheels more ideal, more power and torque allow for larger wheels. Aesthetically, 20's are probably more attractive for F80 owners. The CS, however, is more performance oriented, so the front wheels were reduced to 19's exchanging weight savings for aesthetics.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

I have seen somewhere that even in sports plus traction is off but not completly and something like atually holding the traction control button down for a number of seconds atually turns it off completly. I could be wrong but I'm sure I've read this or something similar.

This is true for the F80 as well. You have to hold the DSC button down to completely turn it off.

The F80 is different in that steering, throttle response, shift mode, and suspension are independent toggles unlike the F30 which are grouped together. Sorry I can't be more of help in the regard, I haven't driven an F30 in years.

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

The M3 CS comes with this configuration standard. Since the F80 in CS trim is making 443 lb-ft in torque and 453 hp , 20's might be the ideal size to maximize distance per rotation. Less power and torque would make smaller wheels more ideal, more power and torque allow for larger wheels. Aesthetically, 20's are probably more attractive for F80 owners. The CS, however, is more performance oriented, so the front wheels were reduced to 19's exchanging weight savings for aesthetics.

Very intresting I did not know that. I definatly think the 20" on the f32 looks loads better however this is personal preference. Would you reccomend a similar staggered set up if I do buy some lightweight alloys and tyres for the track I'm currently running 575lb-ft and 370bhp, to rise to 400bhp with IC and map if I go down that route but tourqe will remain 575lb-ft upon request as this is where I feel the gearbox is at its comfortable safe limit.

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

This is true for the F80 as well. You have to hold the DSC button down to completely turn it off.

The F80 is different in that steering, throttle response, shift mode, and suspension are independent toggles unlike the F30 which are grouped together. Sorry I can't be more of help in the regard, I haven't driven an F30 in years.

You can slightly alter which settings I have in sports I.e. can have just engine or just chassis etc when in select sports but I cant manually change them all at any given time.

P.s. sorry for all the single quote replies I'm using mobile and dont have the button to multi quote. Or you can I just arnt seeying it.

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

Keep in mind that 3.12's are not good street pads where they will unlikely reach optimal operating temperature:



Luckily, the F30 M Sport brakes are similar to the F80 brakes where pad swapping doesn't require removal of the calipers, so swapping from track pads to street pads and vice versa are not that difficult.

Going of this graph the ds2500 look like a good road pad and the ds3.12 a good track pad.what about fluid what food would you reccomend. Also would you change to braided hoses?

[jmg]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Going of this graph the ds2500 look like a good road pad and the ds3.12 a good track pad.what about fluid what food would you reccomend. Also would you change to braided hoses?

Correct. But don't disregard the DS2500 on the track. They are still good. Keep in mind that track pads can be hard on rotors.

Castrol SRF is good fluid. Food? Subjective. Beaded hoses will help with line expansion, but it's not necessary for your first times out. Look into those later.

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by jmg

Correct. But don't disregard the DS2500 on the track. They are still good. Keep in mind that track pads can be hard on rotors.

Castrol SRF is good fluid. Food? Subjective. Beaded hoses will help with line expansion, but it's not necessary for your first times out. Look into those later.

No I have heard people say they use ds2500 on track. Would it be better to take a few sets of ds500 and swap out accordingly, rather than swapping from road to track pad wearing the disk more. I dont know what would be more cost effective.

Dont know why it auto corrected to food. I'll look into the fluid

Cheers mate

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Morning mate I am definatly looking into pads and fluid. Are the standard m sport brake disks up to the job, mine are new all round 2 months ago.

Cheers

I had to run on the blue brembo mSport pads on a session. Not as aggressive as the porterfields I run but they were fine. These pads are included in the track package so BMW must think they are up to the task. You need to feel them out to see their limits at the end of your long straightaways.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by jmg

That must be inherit with F30's. DSC is independent on F80's. I can have it completely off in sport and sport +. That being said, isn't chassis mode only throttle response? WOT is still WOT in comfort or sport +. You shouldn't be losing any power in comfort, so going on track in comfort with DSC off will still result in faster lap times than sport+ with it on. This is speculation on may part however as I only have experience tracking the F80, so correct me if I am wrong.

Yes the F2x/F3x have much less configurability. If you go to DSC&DTC completely off (hold the button down for 6-10sec) then you're stuck with comfort mode throttle response and transmission mapping. So your transmission will shift on you sooner instead of letting the rpms go higher.

Originally Posted by jmg

Keep in mind that 3.12's are not good street pads where they will unlikely reach optimal operating temperature:

Neither are the Pagid RSL29s or PFC08s. Terrible pads for the street. I didn't think we were talking about dual use pads (in which case none of them can be recommended).

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Morning mate I am definatly looking into pads and fluid. Are the standard m sport brake disks up to the job, mine are new all round 2 months ago.

Cheers

The OE rotors are plenty good.

Originally Posted by Ron435d

Regarding the dsc your comment resonated with me about leaving it off. On the road however I never turn it off just for the safety of others as i dont know my car well.enough yet. However on track it will all be completly off car and gear box in its sportier setting and I'll have a toy about with paddles once confident, granted that will be a way off and leaving it in auto for now is what I'll do just to get used to the car the track and I dont want to make it too complicated too soon. And like you say mainly have fun. But make sure the cars to a high standard prior to going.

Again appreciate the advice mate

You can't turn DSC & DTC completely off and have the transmission in its sportier setting.

Originally Posted by Ron435d

This is intresting, so my thoughts were that obviously normal comfort mode was the car in it's normal setting, sport mode changes the characteristics of the engine throttle response, chassis and suspension, sports plus was the same as sport setting with traction control completly off.

However pushing the single traction control button itself whilst in any mode turned traction off just as it would in sports plus, or have I got this wrong? Bare in mind I'm in a f32 435d and not the f80.

I have seen somewhere that even in sports plus traction is off but not completly and something like atually holding the traction control button down for a number of seconds atually turns it off completly. I could be wrong but I'm sure I've read this or something similar.

If you go to Sport or Sport+ mode, and then hit the DSC/DTC button it actually takes you out of Sport/Sport+ mode.

Do you have the adaptive M suspension? You mentioned above that sport changes the chassis and suspension. If that's the case, then you definitely need to run on the track in Sport or Sport+ to maintain the firmer damping.

Originally Posted by Ron435d

No I have heard people say they use ds2500 on track. Would it be better to take a few sets of ds500 and swap out accordingly, rather than swapping from road to track pad wearing the disk more. I dont know what would be more cost effective.

Dont know why it auto corrected to food. I'll look into the fluid

Cheers mate

Some people use the DS2500 in the rear and swap the front between DS2500 (street) and DS1.11 (track).

[Ron435d]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Yes the F2x/F3x have much less configurability. If you go to DSC&DTC completely off (hold the button down for 6-10sec) then you're stuck with comfort mode throttle response and transmission mapping. So your transmission will shift on you sooner instead of letting the rpms go higher.



Neither are the Pagid RSL29s or PFC08s. Terrible pads for the street. I didn't think we were talking about dual use pads (in which case none of them can be recommended).



The OE rotors are plenty good.



You can't turn DSC & DTC completely off and have the transmission in its sportier setting.



If you go to Sport or Sport+ mode, and then hit the DSC/DTC button it actually takes you out of Sport/Sport+ mode.

Do you have the adaptive M suspension? You mentioned above that sport changes the chassis and suspension. If that's the case, then you definitely need to run on the track in Sport or Sport+ to maintain the firmer damping.



Some people use the DS2500 in the rear and swap the front between DS2500 (street) and DS1.11 (track).

Hi mate,



So holding down for 6-10 seconds turns traction completly off but only allows you to remain in comfort? Even if you push it in sports +? You mentioned it takes you out of sports plus? How does keeping in comfort and holding button down differ from simply putting in sports +.

Yes I do have the adaptive suspension I had this confirmed by bmw.

That sound perfect regarding the pad set up. Going off what I'm reading.

Cheers